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Rear Axle Adjusters?

Old 12-20-16, 10:16 AM
  #1  
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Rear Axle Adjusters?

May be a silly question but I've never installed these before....one end is philips head the other other is a knurled knob....which end goes inside the dropout against the axle?
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Old 12-20-16, 10:22 AM
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Assembly Order is: Screw head, spring , dropout, and knob on the outside end.
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Old 12-20-16, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Assembly Order is: Screw head, spring , dropout, and knob on the outside end.
How about that....looks like I accidently got is right....Tks.
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Old 12-20-16, 01:20 PM
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Now that we have that out of the way, I'm ready to see pics of that Trek.
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Old 12-20-16, 01:32 PM
  #5  
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If that's an acorn nut on the end, make sure you tighten it down good so it doesn't turn on the screw.. Also grease the threads in the dropout (not on the nut end, you want that to practically freeze). I've had to drill out two sets of dropout screws this year that were rusted up. Annual maintenance should included removing and regreasing them as well, along with stems and seatposts.
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Old 12-20-16, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by tyler_fred View Post
Now that we have that out of the way, I'm ready to see pics of that Trek.
Here's a few I grabbed this morning....build-up is moving along at a steady pace disrupted by work on my tandem...
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Old 12-20-16, 01:38 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
If that's an acorn nut on the end, make sure you tighten it down good so it doesn't turn on the screw.. Also grease the threads in the dropout (not on the nut end, you want that to practically freeze). I've had to drill out two sets of dropout screws this year that were rusted up. Annual maintenance should included removing and regreasing them as well, along with stems and seatposts.
I'll do that....they're in right now just to test. I was considering loctite for the nut-end....blue so I could remove it for service.
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Old 12-20-16, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by icedog View Post
I'll do that....they're in right now just to test. I was considering loctite for the nut-end....blue so I could remove it for service.
Locktite is a good idea.
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Old 12-20-16, 01:58 PM
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A red hot repop!
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Old 12-20-16, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Assembly Order is: Screw head, spring , dropout, and knob on the outside end.
I've known for awhile that this is the correct order/orientation, but I'm always tempted to put them in backwards for three reasons:

1) The acorn nut won't back off and get lost (how many adjusters do you have with the nut missing?)
2) The acorn nut seems to be a more logical surface to stop the axle against
3) The slotted end would actually be accessible for adjustment, once the QR is loosened a bit

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Old 12-20-16, 05:26 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by icedog View Post
Here's a few I grabbed this morning....build-up is moving along at a steady pace disrupted by work on my tandem...
Looking good. What year & model is the frame?
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Old 12-20-16, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Assembly Order is: Screw head, spring , dropout, and knob on the outside end.
And the logic for this is...?
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Old 12-20-16, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tyler_fred View Post
Looking good. What year & model is the frame?
Thanks...that is a 1986 Trek 500 Ironman. Reynolds 531 for the main triangle and Tange CrMo for the rear triangle. Original fork was also a Tange piece. It was the Reynolds decal that convinced me to pull it off the pile and try and save it....that and the investment cast lugs.
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Old 12-21-16, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by old's'cool View Post
And the logic for this is...?
not getting a puncture wound from getting accidentally jabbed by the end of the 3mm bolt, so the cap is screwed on.



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Old 12-21-16, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Hudson308 View Post
I've known for awhile that this is the correct order/orientation, but I'm always tempted to put them in backwards for three reasons:

1) The acorn nut won't back off and get lost (how many adjusters do you have with the nut missing?)
2) The acorn nut seems to be a more logical surface to stop the axle against
3) The slotted end would actually be accessible for adjustment, once the QR is loosened a bit
Those are all pretty good reasons.
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Old 12-21-16, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
not getting a puncture wound from getting accidentally jabbed by the end of the 3mm bolt, so the cap is screwed on.



OK, I guess you're messing with me. Clearly the brass knurled knob is preferred to the bare end of the screw sticking out the back of the dropout.
I should have added in my question, "as opposed to the assembly layout described by Hudson308 [very cool handle by the way ] in post #10".
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Old 12-21-16, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by tyler_fred View Post
Now that we have that out of the way, I'm ready to see pics of that Trek.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 12-21-16, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by icedog View Post
Thanks...that is a 1986 Trek 500 Ironman. Reynolds 531 for the main triangle and Tange CrMo for the rear triangle. Original fork was also a Tange piece. It was the Reynolds decal that convinced me to pull it off the pile and try and save it....that and the investment cast lugs.
Heck yeah, that's a classic.
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Old 12-21-16, 07:01 PM
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I like to get 3mm stainless screws from the local hardware store and use those to help with the "rusted in place" issue. If I don't have the original serrated knobs (which always seem to be missing) I use Stainless acorn nuts. I've also used retractable pen springs in a pinch although I got some stainless springs that I can cut to fit that were part of a ball check valve when I rebuilt my snowplow pump.
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Old 12-21-16, 07:27 PM
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If you want to go the extra mile, set the wheel to its optimal position for your setup, then cut the excess length off the dropout screws, leaving enough threads so you can screw the acorn but back and tighten it flush against the back of the dropout. (After cutting to length, you can chase the threads by backing out into the dropout.) This gives a cleaner look, won't result in bent ends to the dropout screws, and the tight fit against the frame helps keep the acorn nut from getting unscrewed.
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Old 12-21-16, 09:47 PM
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You have the same drive train going in on that bike as I have on my Guerciotti resurrection. Nice. J
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Old 12-22-16, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
Locktite is a good idea.
Blue locktite, if you want to be able to get them off easy enough for some reason...
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