Klein challenge 1
 

Courtesy of nesteel, I've assumed the position on this build.

OK, gurus, note the piggyback shifter mounts. It's going to be challenge to get any indexed shifters on there. I think I can alter the flat backing plates to mount DA 9 or 10-sp DT shifters.

The backing plates have a slightly larger circumference than the "open" area on the shifter mounts. I'll have to trim about 1/3 of the circumference arc to get them on there, but that's just one challenge, and probably the least of them. They'll go onto the braze-ons once the extra material is removed.

The second challenge is to mount the L DT shifter. As some of you know, the shifter has to be "wound up" counter-clockwise from about an 8 o'clock position back to about a 10 o'clock position onto the shifter mount. Any ideas on how this can be done when the shifter can't be "wound up?"

More later, as we attempt to mount the FD. Perhaps that will be challenge 2....

http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/t...psyqldy3ff.jpg

Nice can't wait to see more of this build.

Sure. Use Shimano 600/6208 lever bodies. The left one is straight friction and requires no wind-up, yet functions just fine. Use the pop-out guts of the nine speed 7700 DT or 7800 DT or bar end units to replace the pop-out guts of the 6208 indexed side (note that 7850 and 7900 units use the later integrated indexing design which cannot be removed and inserted into the 6208 lever bodies).

I'll keep that in mind. Wasn't planning on buying more shifters, but that may be my option. I also considered doing the "wind-up" against the plate, then holding it all together and sliding it onto the braze-on post.

PM sent.

Can you mount SunTour power ratchets on those bosses? I'd be in heaven if I could have that on my bikes.

Ben

OK, well another possibility is to wind them up on another frame that requires concave backing plates. Remember that the wind up interface is between the backing plate and the shifter; the braze-on just keys onto backing plate and provides an attachment point for the mounting bolt.

Install the modified flat backing plate on the second frame, then install and wind up the shifter. Remove both the backing plate and shifter as a unit, keeping the backing plate from unwinding when you remove it. Actually taking off the back plate from the second frame shouldn't be too hard since there will be a gap between the frame and the flat backing plate, BUT the backing plate will want to rotate as soon as it comes off of where it's keyed to the braze-on. The fact that the backing plate must be modified by removing a portion of the circumference may work to your advantage here by giving you better purchase to keep the shifter and backing plate squeezed together, maybe using a pair of pliers. Then carefully install them together as a unit on the Klein. I can forsee this taking some deft fingerwork to slide the backing plate enough onto the Klein without releasing the pliers too much.

Might take a couple of tries, but bet you can manage it without parts flying across the room too many times.

When you get the shifters 'wound', try sourcing some of this excellent tape by Nashua. Extremely strong, if may help keep the backing plate and shifter together long enough to make the transfer, or at least assist with it.

Pass the pliers needlenose...

https://www.findtape.com/Nashua-361-...air-Tape/p723/

Yes, and of course I just gave away a set, with the matching RD and FD, because the guy needed a mounting bolt. Murphy's law, perverted.

A friend of mine just left me with the same advice. Since he machines the fuel control valve for the F-35, he's fairly adept at such things, in my view.

We're going to try that approach. First I'll wrap the Klein frame in some kind of protective cloth. That way, if I get the assembly over to and onto the braze-on post, I can actually let it "slip" a bit because the same DT that makes it a challenge will hold it from coming unwound while I tighten it.

Great minds think alike. You and my friend, of course. Not my lane to swim in, I'm just the grunt inthe mix.

This is NASCAR country. They use that stuff here like the rest of us use duct tape. Something about holding fenders on at 200mph.....


Thanks.

Can't wait to see the results. Also glad you decided to keep the gold paint.

You may be able to go friction unless that is unappealing. I did that on mine as I did not like the shifters it came with. Haven't made time to find and change to the shifters I want. If you want pics I can provide, just need to dig out shifters.

Great bike btw, per T-Mar and DiabloScott said the aero boss should put it between 85-88. The ads I located support those years. Suppose there could be one offs as well though.

The only catalog scans I could find were for 1985, I think, and showed the aero "fin" shifter boss. I'm not sure much changed from '84 to '85. There's a much more recent Klein here on CL, almost looks like a carbon bike.

I was able to find rerference to an original owner having the Aero shift in 83'. The latest I found was 88' and was the test of 88' Super vs Quantum. Mine is toward the end, parts and serial put it about 87', maybe 88'.

The frame you have appears to be a Performance. There were also a couple of those models, but I am unsure what years they ran.

Pretty much what I figured, '84-'86 Performance.
If it wasn't, it is now (decals arrived and have been applied). :innocent:


Pics coming soon. I'm a little worried about the chain line, inner chain ring is not real snug to the R chain stay, and this will be 10-sp, so too much of an angle and there can be issues. If the problem persists, I can go to 8-sp or 9-sp, perhaps. Looks good enough I may skip all-black wheelset and go with a polished set yet to be found.

Judging by the date code on the Tange fork, I'd guess late 84 thru 85.

A few identifying marks.....

http://i.imgur.com/QBvALAn.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/l4CZbAp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ub0d4yT.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/feNy3Pq.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0xrdX5F.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/B25q1wK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zoBXOE0.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8vNi7LN.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/4sYrEPE.jpg

Waiting on stem, but otherwise, good to go.

Those colors are made for each other!

Are the decals VeloCal waterslides?

Looks great!

Actually, the cheaper VeloCals, for finished frames. I was going to powder-coat this frame dark blue metallic, then when it arrived, it was in "no need to paint" condition. I tend to leave well enough alone in most cases, and was perfectly willing to buy new decals if these were not right. The "Made in USA" is a Klein patent pending decal, along with the 861 frame decal, both are the high-gloss UV "for finished frames" decals. The others are the Premium Cast 2mil vinyl, and I've had excellent luck with these holding up well, clear-coated or not. I do not plan to clear coat this one.

I've picked up a Kestrel EMS Pro carbon fork, but it's dark green. I'll strip and sand it a bit, see if the weave is nice enough to clear coat. It generally is on Kestrels (been there done that). I've been looking at (gasp) fenders on line, and would like to test-mount a couple of different colors/models to see if it would be a going thing.

Slow and easy right now. Very tempted to sell my 5700 RD and get a 7800 RD. More bling.

Fenders ? Will this be your Cino bike ?

All I want to know is- if that's your garage, where's the Pontiac?

^ Doc, I was thinking where's the jacked up '68 Charger 440 Magnum sporting Cragar's? :)

340 Duster, Keystones, up on blocks. I was taught Mopar doesn't deserve Cragars. I'd make an exception for a Bullitt Charger or the Vanishing Point Challenger.