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Raleigh Super Tourer - 1st full rebuild in progress

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Raleigh Super Tourer - 1st full rebuild in progress

Old 01-09-17, 10:14 PM
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Raleigh Super Tourer - 1st full rebuild in progress

A neighbor posted this bike for sale and I'm going to see it tomorrow. I did a little research today at work and discovered if it's an original model that's it's pretty highly sought? I read these were only made from '74-'78? But I also seemed too come across info that suggested they were made in US factories in the 80s.
I found the Raleigh catalogs on Sheldon Brown's site but they aren't all there. I noticed the original models didn't have drop bars like this one, and as compared to the images in at least the '74 catalog, it's missing the center black ring on the seat tube.
I don't have any other pics than the one here. They're asking $200 OBO- I was going to offer 125 or 150 but they said its in good shape as it's been in an attic for 15 years....
Will know more tomorrow but would appreciate any thoughts

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Old 01-09-17, 10:23 PM
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Good shape, full 531 tubes, Huret Jubilee, maybe Maillard high flange hubs? Good deal at asking price, especially if it fits. Detailed pics would be great but don't wait too long or 'poof'. it's gone. Tourist bars, pedals, and correct brakes are all available if you wanted it original. Jump.

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Old 01-09-17, 10:31 PM
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I've never heard of an 80s Super Tourer, but that's definitely the 70s model. If saddle is original, it's likely the first year of production as Raleigh went with a leather B66 in subsequent years. The serial number under the BB will confirm.
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Old 01-09-17, 10:40 PM
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Will this possibly be made in England? Anything in particular I should look for in the serial?
I'm pretty much set on buying it if it fits me. Might still buy it and fix it up and sell it if it's too big. Lady said it was a 21" she thought. I'm 5'5.5" on a good day- will I fit it?

Doesn't look like they have the frame pump or fenders though.
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Old 01-09-17, 10:45 PM
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-----

Can recall seeing these in the showroom at launch in MCMLXXIV. IIRC the other livery was black.

Local heron peddler featured the model, placing prominently in the store's corner display window.

Remember thinking "so what the heck is THAT?!?!"

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Old 01-10-17, 01:18 AM
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I have of of these. Interestingly, it shares the same frame and thus the same geometry of the Competitions, so they can be a tad squirrely when ridden with upright bars but more stable with drop bars. That looks like a GB bar, Raleigh tape, and Carlton hoods on the levers, so it's probably been like that for a long while, possibly was sold like that. They were only sold from 74-76, you can guess the year based on pump pegs. 74' had them brazed onto the top tube, later years had the pump in clips on the seat tube.
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Old 01-10-17, 02:21 AM
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For $200 I'd grab it in a second! They were shown in 1974, 75 & 76 Raleigh catalogs. The frame looks similar to the Competition models from those years but slightly different - lugs, braze-ons and so on.

They came with 27" clinchers vs. sewups on the Completions plus upright bars and plastic Bluemel fenders.

Definitely built in the UK.

The mattress saddle was offered on the 1974 models so it's probably a 1974-75.

I saw a few of them back in the 1970's. I always liked the green color. Like the Competitions for those years the cosmetic lug work was a little crude.

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Old 01-10-17, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
A neighbor posted this bike for sale and I'm going to see it tomorrow. I did a little research today at work and discovered if it's an original model that's it's pretty highly sought? I read these were only made from '74-'78? But I also seemed too come across info that suggested they were made in US factories in the 80s.
I found the Raleigh catalogs on Sheldon Brown's site but they aren't all there. I noticed the original models didn't have drop bars like this one, and as compared to the images in at least the '74 catalog, it's missing the center black ring on the seat tube.
I don't have any other pics than the one here. They're asking $200 OBO- I was going to offer 125 or 150 but they said its in good shape as it's been in an attic for 15 years....
Will know more tomorrow but would appreciate any thoughts

Howdy it looks good, frame is small though - is it your size?
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Old 01-10-17, 04:34 AM
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Buy first, measure later!
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Old 01-10-17, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by rhm View Post
Buy first, measure later!
Exactly. It does like like a 21" so if your inseam is in the 27" vicinity you could ride it with the seat slammed. Totally worth it.
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Old 01-10-17, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 87 Demo View Post
That looks like a GB bar, Raleigh tape, and Carlton hoods on the levers, so it's probably been like that for a long while, possibly was sold like that .
Yep, both of the Super Tourers that we received back when were converted to drop bars for customers w/ "take-offs" from other Carlton models fitted out w/ Cinelli bar/stems. Configured that way they made a for a very nice century bike. Snap it up if it fits.

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Old 01-10-17, 09:04 AM
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As I said I'm 5'5", with a 29/30" inseam on my pants - do you think it'll be too big?

Should I be looking for anything in terms of damage or defects? The chrome looks to have a decent luster based on that pic. Will that be susceptible to super rusting and breaking?

If it fits, would I be crazy to change out/update the components on it - even if the existing ones are in decent shape? I'm not a fan of the stem shifters, and the brakes/hoods/bar combo isn't my style or position either...
Was thinking of making it a 1x7 or something? Thoughts?

Either way, fingers crossed it fits and I'm excited to check it out tonight after work.
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Old 01-10-17, 09:10 AM
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I think it will fit you well enough to ride for a while, and I think the existing components will be good enough that you can get to know the bike as is. It is not crazy to want to improve it; I just don't think you can actually improve it until you establish what the base line is. So my advice is: buy it, do a cursory mechanical check, do any urgent maintenance, and ride. You will soon know what's needed.
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Old 01-10-17, 09:15 AM
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Sure, I have a 28.5" inseam and ride a 54 cm (21") frame. I prefer 165 to 170 cranks.

Lower the seat and take a short test drive. If it tracks straight without any pull to the side, buy it. Yes to all your desires, the chrome is great, the frame is great, upright bars are great, a 7 speed may require the frame being spread by someone who's done it before. Or ask here. However, there's nothing wrong with leaving the drivetrain stock until you get to know it and love it first.

Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
As I said I'm 5'5", with a 29/30" inseam on my pants - do you think it'll be too big?

Should I be looking for anything in terms of damage or defects? The chrome looks to have a decent luster based on that pic. Will that be susceptible to super rusting and breaking?

If it fits, would I be crazy to change out/update the components on it - even if the existing ones are in decent shape? I'm not a fan of the stem shifters, and the brakes/hoods/bar combo isn't my style or position either...
Was thinking of making it a 1x7 or something? Thoughts?

Either way, fingers crossed it fits and I'm excited to check it out tonight after work.
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Old 01-10-17, 09:23 AM
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Framebuilder told me that the full-sloping crown seen on these and the contemporaneous Competition was done by a foundry in Britain called Harrington.

Recall peds as being something like Atom 440; is that correct?

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Old 01-10-17, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by juvela View Post
-----


Recall peds as being something like Atom 440; is that correct?

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Atom 440 pedals would be appropriate as they came on quite a few Carlton models in the '70's including the DL140 as I recall.

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Old 01-10-17, 09:55 AM
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If that were available in my neighborhood and I knew the neighbor, the bike would already be in my driveway and the neighbor would have $150-$175 cash and a $20 nice bottle of wine!
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Old 01-10-17, 10:00 AM
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I wanted to buy one of those way back but the local dealer did not do special orders. Met a guy years later who grew up in a Raleigh shop and he said they sold dozens and dozens of these, most being converted to drops.
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Old 01-10-17, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rhm View Post
I think it will fit you well enough to ride for a while, and I think the existing components will be good enough that you can get to know the bike as is. It is not crazy to want to improve it; I just don't think you can actually improve it until you establish what the base line is. So my advice is: buy it, do a cursory mechanical check, do any urgent maintenance, and ride. You will soon know what's needed.
Aye I wasn't going to buy it, walk it back to the house, and rip everything off it Plus, money is tight so it'll be a long term project anyway. I just didn't want to be the guy who buys a classic, and ruins it by thinking he's "improving" it.

Originally Posted by clubman View Post
Sure, I have a 28.5" inseam and ride a 54 cm (21") frame. I prefer 165 to 170 cranks.

Lower the seat and take a short test drive. If it tracks straight without any pull to the side, buy it. Yes to all your desires, the chrome is great, the frame is great, upright bars are great, a 7 speed may require the frame being spread by someone who's done it before. Or ask here. However, there's nothing wrong with leaving the drivetrain stock until you get to know it and love it first.
Why should I look for pulling to the side? What is that an indicator of?

(will I have issues replacing things like a BB or a headset of they are old/busted because of the vintage of the bike / original type of parts?)

btw thanks everyone for your input.
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Old 01-10-17, 10:07 AM
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If it pulls, it means something is out of alignment. If it is, then I'd ask for a discount and have the frame straightened. Otherwise just pony up.
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Old 01-10-17, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
I just didn't want to be the guy who buys a classic, and ruins it by thinking he's "improving" it.


(will I have issues replacing things like a BB or a headset of they are old/busted because of the vintage of the bike / original type of parts?)
Don't worry about that, most original owners of that quality of bike modified the machine to suit their requirements before it left the shop and as needed over the decades.
I won't tell Period Correct Police if you don't.

Parts & bits n bobs for '70's Carltons are readily available if you look for them, keep them from premature wear by doing the following.
A complete overhaul re-packing all bearing surfaces w/ fresh grease & replacing all brake/derail cables, brake pads, truing wheels & installing fresh tires/tubes will keep it safely & reliably on the road for a good long while.

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Old 01-10-17, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rhm View Post
I think it will fit you well enough to ride for a while, and I think the existing components will be good enough that you can get to know the bike as is. It is not crazy to want to improve it; I just don't think you can actually improve it until you establish what the base line is. So my advice is: buy it, do a cursory mechanical check, do any urgent maintenance, and ride. You will soon know what's needed.
This here. I usually ride my bikes for a month or so before I make component changes, even uncomfortably is sometimes just a matter of getting used to the position on a particular bike.

The cranks (Stronglight 93) on these are very well respected and the derailleurs are HIGHLY sought after, possibly the lightest weighing derailleurs ever made! if you make any changes make sure you know what you have first. You'll run into problems changing out the rear derailleur anyway, the bike has Huret dropouts which are only compatible with Huret and some older Shimano derailleurs without making a washer or modifying the dropout. The Jubilee could probably handle 7 cogs anyway.
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Old 01-10-17, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 87 Demo View Post
This here. I usually ride my bikes for a month or so before I make component changes, even uncomfortably is sometimes just a matter of getting used to the position on a particular bike.

The cranks (Stronglight 93) on these are very well respected and the derailleurs are HIGHLY sought after, possibly the lightest weighing derailleurs ever made! if you make any changes make sure you know what you have first. You'll run into problems changing out the rear derailleur anyway, the bike has Huret dropouts which are only compatible with Huret and some older Shimano derailleurs without making a washer or modifying the dropout. The Jubilee could probably handle 7 cogs anyway.
Are these types of derailleurs no longer made?

Perhaps the question I should be asking is: am I getting in over my head here? I'm not a "pull apart and repack your bearings" type of bike mechanic.

Would I be doing the bike a disservice to convert it to a single speed?
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Old 01-10-17, 12:35 PM
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Those are no longer made, but they still are good to use.

Learning how to do things on the bike is easy and satisfying.

If it suits you and works for your type of riding, no. It was common to set a regular multispeed bike up during the winter to ride fixed or SS, then change it back. Don't do any permanent cutting or grinding and it will be fine.
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Old 01-10-17, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
Are these types of derailleurs no longer made?

Perhaps the question I should be asking is: am I getting in over my head here? I'm not a "pull apart and repack your bearings" type of bike mechanic.

Would I be doing the bike a disservice to convert it to a single speed?
This link may demystify the derailleur hanger differences from back in the day. Derailleur Hangers Demystified - Red Clover Components

If you can turn a wrench and follow instructions, you should be able to service bicycle bearings. You may need a few inexpensive specialty tools, and want to ask a bike shop to remove the cranks (specialty tool required there).

I would not do a single speed conversion unless I kept all original parts and kept the frame as it now sits (no drewing).
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