89 Prelude Build Thread
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89 Prelude Build Thread
Hi Classic and Vintage!
As chronicled in the recent thead https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...k-bike-id.html I found an old bike to fix up, something I've been wanting to do for a long time. This will be my pictures and progress thread.
After taking it on a quick spin around the neighborhood I took it completely apart, down to the frame. So far I've polished the handlebars, stem, and seatpost, done some work on the untrue wheels, had the shop remove the crank and single speed cassette, and started work on the frame proper. The paint has a lot of dings which rusted, so I've been polishing off the rust down to the bare metal in preparation for patching and clear coating.
The thing that has impressed me most about this bike is the aero alu wheels! I think they may very well be lighter than the wheels on my Defy, and they just look GREAT!
Any comments and tips are welcome, and thank you!
As chronicled in the recent thead https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...k-bike-id.html I found an old bike to fix up, something I've been wanting to do for a long time. This will be my pictures and progress thread.
After taking it on a quick spin around the neighborhood I took it completely apart, down to the frame. So far I've polished the handlebars, stem, and seatpost, done some work on the untrue wheels, had the shop remove the crank and single speed cassette, and started work on the frame proper. The paint has a lot of dings which rusted, so I've been polishing off the rust down to the bare metal in preparation for patching and clear coating.
The thing that has impressed me most about this bike is the aero alu wheels! I think they may very well be lighter than the wheels on my Defy, and they just look GREAT!
Any comments and tips are welcome, and thank you!
#3
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Are your plans to build it back up as a geared bike - maybe back to its glory downtube shifter days... or upgrade to integrated shifters on the bars?
In the last pic it looks as though that is a BMX cassette on a hub intended for a multispeed Freehub? On singles speed/fixed gear, there would not be as much open space between the cog and the frame... at least that is how it looks from the angle of the pic. If that is the case you could use those wheels getting that frame back to geared glory!
Great find - looking forward to the updates!
In the last pic it looks as though that is a BMX cassette on a hub intended for a multispeed Freehub? On singles speed/fixed gear, there would not be as much open space between the cog and the frame... at least that is how it looks from the angle of the pic. If that is the case you could use those wheels getting that frame back to geared glory!
Great find - looking forward to the updates!
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Are your plans to build it back up as a geared bike - maybe back to its glory downtube shifter days... or upgrade to integrated shifters on the bars?
In the last pic it looks as though that is a BMX cassette on a hub intended for a multispeed Freehub? On singles speed/fixed gear, there would not be as much open space between the cog and the frame... at least that is how it looks from the angle of the pic. If that is the case you could use those wheels getting that frame back to geared glory!
Great find - looking forward to the updates!
In the last pic it looks as though that is a BMX cassette on a hub intended for a multispeed Freehub? On singles speed/fixed gear, there would not be as much open space between the cog and the frame... at least that is how it looks from the angle of the pic. If that is the case you could use those wheels getting that frame back to geared glory!
Great find - looking forward to the updates!
Yes, I'm setting it up with friction shifters- Tired of brifters!
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Actually these bikes came with indexed downtube shifters! I guess you could run them in fricomodr thiugh
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That is a fantastic color scheme!! Hahahaha, gotta love the late '80s. And Schwinn during that time. I have much love for them. Very cool project and excited to see how it turns out, and incredibly glad you are taking it back to it's original intended state. It's the same story of how I got my Peloton--it served as a fixie for a while according to the seller. Got it as frame and fork only, no headset or anything. It's run multiple groupsets, and has Dura Ace brifters on it now (downtube levers on another bike, I like them a lot).
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Nice find. I can't wait to see your progress on the build.
There is a great thread called "Show off your late 1980s Schwinn..." You will see some period correct builds, as well as, some modern updates. There's plenty to give you some inspiration.
Dennis
There is a great thread called "Show off your late 1980s Schwinn..." You will see some period correct builds, as well as, some modern updates. There's plenty to give you some inspiration.
Dennis
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So far I have:
Polished the rust off the paint chips
Used a derust liquid on the spots
Dabbed Rust Stop Rustoleum on the spots
Bought some hobby paint and patched the spots
Applied clear coat.
It's kind of fun walking into a hobby store with a bike frame over your shoulder- it's an excellent conversation piece!
Pic below. The white didn't match AT ALL, but the red and blue were ok.
Polished the rust off the paint chips
Used a derust liquid on the spots
Dabbed Rust Stop Rustoleum on the spots
Bought some hobby paint and patched the spots
Applied clear coat.
It's kind of fun walking into a hobby store with a bike frame over your shoulder- it's an excellent conversation piece!
Pic below. The white didn't match AT ALL, but the red and blue were ok.
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I love that frame. I have an 88 prelude in white/ laser yellow. It's a beautiful bike. I have trouble uploading pictures, i think because i have a chromebook which runs on chrome os. I love that 89 frame! Can't wait to see the finished product. Just yesterday i was looking up pictures of your exact frame to drool over. The paint scheme will make for a beautiful classic bike. They're very light for their price/time period and just pretty bikes. Looking forward to your posts.
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Like the build progress pic. Creative how you stage the frame and fork for paint work.
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BB / crank questions
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The stupid copy-paste isn't working! Whoops, there we go...
https://m.ebay.com/itm/DURA-ACE-BB-7700-ENGLISH-THREAD-BOTTOM-BRACKET-68-x-109-5-BC-1-37-x-24-OCTALINK-/282312053985?nav=SEARCH
Kind of expensive! The question is, will one of these work?
https://m.ebay.com/itm/DURA-ACE-BB-7700-ENGLISH-THREAD-BOTTOM-BRACKET-68-x-109-5-BC-1-37-x-24-OCTALINK-/282312053985?nav=SEARCH
Kind of expensive! The question is, will one of these work?
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#19
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What is the length of the original spindle? You need to order a BB that approximates that width, +/- 3mm.
https://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/s...bikeSpot_Part1
https://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/s...bikeSpot_Part1
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I've assembled the bike as much as I can with the parts I have. Lots of parts are in the mail... looking forward to putting them on.
I've sat on it a few times and I think I need a shorter stem for proper fit. Also, how are you hands supposed to fit on the brake levers? They seem very uncomfortable.
Thinking of buying the Cane Creek levers to simulate a hoods position similar to my 105 bike. Thoughts?
I've sat on it a few times and I think I need a shorter stem for proper fit. Also, how are you hands supposed to fit on the brake levers? They seem very uncomfortable.
Thinking of buying the Cane Creek levers to simulate a hoods position similar to my 105 bike. Thoughts?
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I've assembled the bike as much as I can with the parts I have. Lots of parts are in the mail... looking forward to putting them on.
I've sat on it a few times and I think I need a shorter stem for proper fit. Also, how are you hands supposed to fit on the brake levers? They seem very uncomfortable.
Thinking of buying the Cane Creek levers to simulate a hoods position similar to my 105 bike. Thoughts?
I've sat on it a few times and I think I need a shorter stem for proper fit. Also, how are you hands supposed to fit on the brake levers? They seem very uncomfortable.
Thinking of buying the Cane Creek levers to simulate a hoods position similar to my 105 bike. Thoughts?
And don't toss the old stem until you get a chance to ride it, it may feel better in motion than when you're just sitting on the bike. Don't bother wrapping the bars until you're sure, though.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
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The paint is looking good!
On the BB stuff, Octalink units (for road, classified as "V1" style) came in 109.5mm for doubles, and 118.5mm for triples. Either will work with a double crankset, but 109.5mm is the best for it (lower Q-factor as well). These road BBs were labeled BB7700 (Dura Ace), BB6500 (Ultegra), and BB5500 (105) and all will work with your frame no problem. I have them on several of my bikes and have great experience. Keep in mind the Dura Ace one has lots of small bearings, so coating the bearings with grease to 'glue' them to their cups is a good idea so that they don't fall out!
As to fit, everyone is different, but you have a few things working against you here. Your saddle position is alright but can be adjusted if you wish, so you don't have to worry about that. Sitting on a bike vs. pedaling it is indeed different, but here we need it closer. I don't know what brake levers you are using (or if they are the final ones), but them not having the hoods with the peak in the front really encourage your hands to slide forward and off the front of them (I call it sliding downhill). Not a great or accurate experience.
Everybody sets their bars up differently. Your brake levers are set up "after the curve" of the bars, which shoves the palms of your hands forward, further stretching you out. Those bars have a really nice profile, so bending them forward (the bottoms of them being horizontal or nearly so) and moving the brake levers up to just after the bars start to curve down+back. This helps a lot as it gives your hands a sort of 'dam' to stop up against. Set up well, you will still be able to safely grab the levers in the drops and be able to use a lot of force to stop the bike.
The last bit is, if you can, try a shorter stem. For tall guys like me, a lot of 100-130mm stems get used. Shorter riders use proportionally shorter stems unless you are racing or have very long arms. I am talking in general here. So, for that size bike, 80-100mm stem would be just fine--yours looks like a 105-110mm. At 6'5", I like 100-105mm units as the bike is large enough as it is and I want my hands slightly behind the front axle, not hanging out way over or ahead of it--steering gets funny, IMO. We non-racers ride plenty pedaling hard, pedaling softly, and coasting. The latter two scenarios, for long rides, generally don't favor forward-heavy positions. So anything that can slide the weight balance back onto the saddle is better than slumping over the bike on one's hands. You may find that a shift back in handlebar position earns you a shifting back in saddle position, which would be totally fine and may end up being even better than before!
There are a thousand setup examples, but this Bridgestone catalog picture shows the idea nicely. Looks good set up that way too, IMO. Best of luck!
On the BB stuff, Octalink units (for road, classified as "V1" style) came in 109.5mm for doubles, and 118.5mm for triples. Either will work with a double crankset, but 109.5mm is the best for it (lower Q-factor as well). These road BBs were labeled BB7700 (Dura Ace), BB6500 (Ultegra), and BB5500 (105) and all will work with your frame no problem. I have them on several of my bikes and have great experience. Keep in mind the Dura Ace one has lots of small bearings, so coating the bearings with grease to 'glue' them to their cups is a good idea so that they don't fall out!
As to fit, everyone is different, but you have a few things working against you here. Your saddle position is alright but can be adjusted if you wish, so you don't have to worry about that. Sitting on a bike vs. pedaling it is indeed different, but here we need it closer. I don't know what brake levers you are using (or if they are the final ones), but them not having the hoods with the peak in the front really encourage your hands to slide forward and off the front of them (I call it sliding downhill). Not a great or accurate experience.
Everybody sets their bars up differently. Your brake levers are set up "after the curve" of the bars, which shoves the palms of your hands forward, further stretching you out. Those bars have a really nice profile, so bending them forward (the bottoms of them being horizontal or nearly so) and moving the brake levers up to just after the bars start to curve down+back. This helps a lot as it gives your hands a sort of 'dam' to stop up against. Set up well, you will still be able to safely grab the levers in the drops and be able to use a lot of force to stop the bike.
The last bit is, if you can, try a shorter stem. For tall guys like me, a lot of 100-130mm stems get used. Shorter riders use proportionally shorter stems unless you are racing or have very long arms. I am talking in general here. So, for that size bike, 80-100mm stem would be just fine--yours looks like a 105-110mm. At 6'5", I like 100-105mm units as the bike is large enough as it is and I want my hands slightly behind the front axle, not hanging out way over or ahead of it--steering gets funny, IMO. We non-racers ride plenty pedaling hard, pedaling softly, and coasting. The latter two scenarios, for long rides, generally don't favor forward-heavy positions. So anything that can slide the weight balance back onto the saddle is better than slumping over the bike on one's hands. You may find that a shift back in handlebar position earns you a shifting back in saddle position, which would be totally fine and may end up being even better than before!
There are a thousand setup examples, but this Bridgestone catalog picture shows the idea nicely. Looks good set up that way too, IMO. Best of luck!
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