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Help build up my Kestrel 200 SCi

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Help build up my Kestrel 200 SCi

Old 02-15-17, 11:32 AM
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Help build up my Kestrel 200 SCi

I picked up the Kestrel 200 SCi I asked about in the appraisals thread, and I would love some help in making this a rider again. I know this is at best on the cusp of being C&V, but I think this is at the least a classic frame. Itís one that was Made-in-Japan (so not from the first few years) with the EMS fork, and while it has some chips and scratches, the frame appears to be in good shape. It feels very solid. I know I'm in for a fight getting the cable housing back into the top tube - the PO apologized for pulling this out.

kestrel1

The seller noted that heíd had the driveside rear DO trued up, and the shop thought the frame was O/W fine when they straightened it. Looking at the abrasions on the Ultegra 6500 RD, the bike must have taken a pretty good spill at some point. The RD reportedly in good working order. I was a bummed at how abraded it is, but for the price I paid I canít complain. I may take a Dremel to polish it out a bit.

KestrelUltegra6500RD

The seat post is reportedly stuck, and the seller (who seemed quite frank) said he hadnít seriously tried to get it unstuck. Itís right where I normally set my seat post, so I may not bother trying to free it up (though if anyone has suggestions on freeing a stuck alloy post from a CF frame, Iím interested ó I know all about alloy-stuck-in-steel). The seatpost needs some polishing, too.

KestrelSeatpost

The Tricolor 600 calipers are in excellent condition. The DuraAce 7400 cranks look fine to me, plus theyíre my preferred 175 mm, and the BB spins smoothly.

KestrelBB

I donít know if this bike originally came with threaded or threadless headset, but itís threadless now. The headset may have some brinelling (never dealt with that before), so I need to open that up and at the least replace bearings and grease. Hopefully itís still functional. The bars are junk, and Iíll keep my eyes peeled from some suitable 400 mm bars, and use my old 440 mm Cannondale C3s till then. I have several potential saddles.

KestrelStem

More photos here. I want to keep this a 9 x 2 speed (Iíve confirmed itís 130 mm at the rear). So what I need are brifters, wheels/cassette, FD, chain, bars, plus the usual consumables. Hereís where I need your help to pimp my ride:

1. Brifters - Iíd love to find a decent set of Ultegra 6500 brifters without spending an arm and a leg. I briefly considered Sora ST-3500s, currently $70 at Jensen, till I realized that was $70 per side. My understanding is that Shimano 105 5500s or DuraAce 7700 shifters will also work, as well as Tiagras before 4600. Iím inclined to go for 105 5500s when I can find a decent deal, but Iím open to suggestions.

2. FD - Here Iím kind of ignorant. I suspect a wide range of FDs will work. I have a spare Tricolor 600 FD, but itís a clamp-on. Even Ultegra FDs seem pretty cheap, so Iím thinking just get an Ultegra 6500 off the Ďbay.

3. Wheelset - Iíd like to get a decent wheel set, preferably something with a bit of bling since this is a bland-looking bike otherwise (perhaps subtle is a better word). I only have $50 in this bike so far, and Iím looking to keep this build, shall we say, economical. But I like the idea of wheels that were, like this frame, state-of-the art in their day, and have some cool design attitude. I see some interesting wheels with 9-speed hubs, and even with cassettes included, up for auction. Some of these were pretty hot wheels back in the day, and seem like theyíd fit this bike. Iím not a hard rider, and weigh around 160, so they can be fairly light wheels. I pretty ignorant about wheels, so thoughts and suggestions are most welcome. Iím inclined to keep it simple with clinchers, but could potentially be talked into something tubular.

4. How can I tell if the headset is too far gone? Will it be obvious when I open it up? I think I feel a slight hitch when I turn the bars, but itís pretty minimal.

I think this will be a cool bike, and give my Cannondale a run for it's money. Iím not going for a 'correct' build (I'm not sure I can even really track down the exact year this was built), or beautiful build. A lean, hungry, functional, fun frankenbike is the idea. Looking forward to any and all suggestions.
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Old 02-15-17, 11:58 AM
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It should be pretty evident if the HS is worn once you open it. One of the most common places is the rearward portion of the crown race.

Personally I would recommend putting some wheels and pedals on it and checking the seat height first, then work on removing the post. Then strip the frame, clean it, touch it up then give it a good waxing.

Next build it back with the parts it came plus whatever you have on hand or can scrounge from the local co-op to test ride it and make sure you like it before you start buying fancy wheels.

Doesn't a 130 spacing limit you 7 or 8 speed?
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Old 02-15-17, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
It should be pretty evident if the HS is worn once you open it. One of the most common places is the rearward portion of the crown race.

Personally I would recommend putting some wheels and pedals on it and checking the seat height first, then work on removing the post. Then strip the frame, clean it, touch it up then give it a good waxing.

Next build it back with the parts it came plus whatever you have on hand or can scrounge from the local co-op to test ride it and make sure you like it before you start buying fancy wheels.

Doesn't a 130 spacing limit you 7 or 8 speed?
Wise words. I may do just that, though I don't really have a local coop for parts. For wheels, I've actually been kind of itching to put some Flo 30s on my Cannondale. The nothing-special Fulcrum Racing 7s could go on the Kestrel for the testing. [Edit to add: I'm still interested in suggestions on good wheels for this bike!]

For rear DO spacing on road bikes, 130mm is the standard for 8-speed on up. Are you spending too much time in C&V land?
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Old 02-15-17, 12:13 PM
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I owned one of these once upon a time, so I'm really curious what your thoughts are once you get it built up. I found mine to be very fast and responsive, but the only way I can describe the ride would be "dead" - as in no energy return, I guess... tough for me to be any more specific. It's the only one of these I've ever ridden, so I'll be curious to read your impressions.

By the way, mine was built up with a complete 600 tricolor kit and close space rear. I don't recall if it was seven or eight speed, but 600 has always been one of my favorites.
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Old 02-15-17, 12:54 PM
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^ I concur with AZORCH in the ride quality. Though would have liked back then to try it with tubulars.

As for the seized seat post, do take utmost care in attempts to remove. Even though its a nice post, I'd even consider sacrificing by sawing it off and then vertical cuts on the inside, remove the pieces.

They're really tough frames and can take some hard crashes. I had a CS-X atb frame of that era and was amazed what it went thru. Though you might see some external hairline cracks, they might only be cosmetic. Its rather tricky in determining how critical it might be, and maybe not even possible. For main tubes or chainstays, you could do a basic stress test by securing it, and then put some force to it and seeing if that crack opens. Good luck
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Old 02-15-17, 02:35 PM
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Rolf Vector Pros or something along those lines for the wheels, they always look right on carbon bikes.
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Old 02-15-17, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by AZORCH View Post
I owned one of these once upon a time, so I'm really curious what your thoughts are once you get it built up. I found mine to be very fast and responsive, but the only way I can describe the ride would be "dead" - as in no energy return, I guess... tough for me to be any more specific. It's the only one of these I've ever ridden, so I'll be curious to read your impressions.

By the way, mine was built up with a complete 600 tricolor kit and close space rear. I don't recall if it was seven or eight speed, but 600 has always been one of my favorites.
Thanks for the input. Having handled the frame a bit, I think I understand what you're saying about feeling "dead." It seems to absorb energy, which also gives it a very solid feel. I suspect, as crank_addict mentioned, that this bike will be more dependent than most on the wheelset. I think I've also read that in comments from Robbietunes.

Originally Posted by mzr View Post
Rolf Vector Pros or something along those lines for the wheels, they always look right on carbon bikes.
Those are certainly blingy and fashion forward. I'll put them on the list to consider.
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Old 02-15-17, 07:15 PM
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I've built a half dozen of those, including one to just under 15.2 lbs (rolling plywood), and I've got some ideas. I'll be out for a couple of hours and maybe hit this thread later tonight or in the AM. Tons of potential. Very sensitive to wheel choice.
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Old 02-15-17, 07:33 PM
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Get that post out of there -- looks like a $15 Kalloy unit anyway -- put a junk seat on it and see if a BIG TWIST will do it, --- id be hesitant on using any cheater bars on it without consulting someone more knowledgable about posts stuck in carbon though


Groupset and wheels ? Complete 600 tri color 8 speed, paired with an old pair of Specialized Tri-spoke wheels , or a set of original Spinergy's will give it a proper early to mid 90's vibe
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Old 02-15-17, 09:22 PM
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@DMC707, A couple of years ago I looked for some Spinergy Rev-X wheels. I didn't find any, but read a few warnings about failing lamination.

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Old 02-15-17, 10:16 PM
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someday I will own a kestral. from that era they are dead sexy from a design standpoint - the white ones in particular.
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Old 02-15-17, 10:25 PM
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They're quite iconic and of course regarded one of the innovators of monocoque CF design.

Can't stress enough (pun) about wheel choice. Above someone mentioned the Tri-spoke.
-NOT- I had some time with a 200sci set up with them, cool then but it was a slug on sprints and climbs. Not only heavy, there was also just enough runout to bother me. That aside, I wouldn't concern of a period correct wheel but rather seek modern and to fit width. Robbie is on it and no doubt could build a super cool rocket for a nominal budget.

Lastly, I think to still have an original large poster format Kestrel brochure. If I can find will PM and its yours.
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Old 02-16-17, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
I've built a half dozen of those, including one to just under 15.2 lbs (rolling plywood), and I've got some ideas. I'll be out for a couple of hours and maybe hit this thread later tonight or in the AM. Tons of potential. Very sensitive to wheel choice.
Very much looking forward to your thoughts!

Originally Posted by crank_addict View Post
They're quite iconic and of course regarded one of the innovators of monocoque CF design.

Can't stress enough (pun) about wheel choice. Above someone mentioned the Tri-spoke.
-NOT- I had some time with a 200sci set up with them, cool then but it was a slug on sprints and climbs. Not only heavy, there was also just enough runout to bother me. That aside, I wouldn't concern of a period correct wheel but rather seek modern and to fit width. Robbie is on it and no doubt could build a super cool rocket for a nominal budget.

Lastly, I think to still have an original large poster format Kestrel brochure. If I can find will PM and its yours.
I've read some fairly critical stuff about the tri-spokes, plus didn't they have a fairly high failure rate? Or was that just fearmongering from the spoke manufacturers?

The brochure would be awesome! Thank you.

Edit: I forgot to note that your mention of wheel/tire fit width is right on. In both front and back there are thin streaks of tire rubber bilaterally on the inside fork blades, seat stays, and chain stays. And even some evidence that there was inadequate clearance radially. I don't know what size tires the previous owners tried to run, but just eyeballing it I wonder if 23mm tires are about the max. I'll check when I get back to the bike this evening.

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Old 02-17-17, 05:21 PM
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A little update. I threw on a couple of wheels (mismatched and not destined for this bike) and an old MTB seat to check the static geometry -- feels pretty good. I like the looks of the bike.



With the seat and wheels on, I was able to move the seat post a few mm after a couple of hours of PB Blaster soaking in. I added a more PB Blaster, wiggled it a few times, and I'll let it sit overnight and check it again tomorrow.

I also took apart the headset. Bianchigirl was correct, it was pretty obvious that the headset it shot. Really really shot.





Since it's a 1" steerer tube, I'm temped to go threadless, but I've already ordered an CF aero dropbar that needs the modern 31.8mm clamp area. I've done a bit of research, and this wrecked headset was apparently Cane Creeks bottom of the line Aheadset. I've read that Cane Creek Forty headsets are good value, but require specific tools or a professional install. Suggestions on moderately priced 1" headsets that I might consider installing myself?
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Old 02-17-17, 05:33 PM
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Love the classic modern bikes. The Kestrel where the seat tube follows the wheel radius is off the charts for me !!
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Old 02-17-17, 08:49 PM
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Ok, I'm home and nothing to do until I build a bike tomorrow for a guy coming in out of Boston.....

1-The headset may be trashed, but if it's 1" threadless (can't really tell), then I have 3-4 of those bearings just sitting here, not sure they fit that headset. You may wish to clean out the races and just see what gives. I like the Ritchey 1" threadless for that particular bike, and then minimal spacers if you can get away with it. I have a couple of those EMS forks, one for a 54cm and one for a 56cm frame.

2-The seat post must be dealt with carefully. There is an inner aluminum sleeve in that, and at the top of that sleeve is a thicker band with knurls inside it to grip the seat post. Any levered pressure against the top of the carbon tube in that area can easily crack it. Do NOT let the bike fall over with the seat post extended out and the saddle on it. That seat tube is designed to have the seat post bottom out inside it, so most posts should be cut to length to bottom out. The inner aluminum sleeve does not extend all the way down into the seat tube, and this gives the end of the seat post a bit of room to move around; it's better off bottomed out.

3-Pay attention to the rear dropouts. They are bonded into the frame, aluminum, and non-replaceable. The threads in the RD hanger are fragile. If they strip out, DropOut Savers has a kit that works fine.

4-Yep, tire clearance is an issue. Learn to love some 700x23's. This is not a gravel bike, though the frame feel is great for that kind of riding.

5-Next up, the BB shell. Take things easy on the BB, and never overtighten. It's an aluminum sleeve in carbon, and I've seen the sleeves break loose. They can be re-glued, but it's not fun. I like external BB cups for that bike. The BB can and will loosen up and creak, so feel free to use grease on those threads and just keep an eye on it. Thread lightly, as those alumium threads will cross-thread in a heart beat.

6-Wheel selection. The frame is not springy or particularly agile; the bike is good on longer rides, not a crit bike by any means. Super stiff wheels make it worse. It's also not particularly great with fairly flexy wheels like Easton EA90's, but better. I've had great luck with mid-range wheels, and some older, therefore a bilt more flexible, Mavic Ksyriums. The bike looks good with more aero wheels, but full carbon's etc will be lost on it. Spinergy Rev-X's look cool, but if you want the frame to come alive, the Spinergy Xaero is dead in the performance/feel range for the bike. Super-light wheels tend to make the frame feel heavy, and heavy wheels make it bottom-heavy. Again, trial and error may be the way to go.

7-A set-back post is fine, with a shorter stem. The leverage of a longer stem makes the front ponderous. I built one with carbon bars and a carbon zero-setback post, and I'd go no longer than 100mm on the stem length.

This bike tends to wear it's center of gravity low, and I don't know why. This makes it kind of floppy with a heavy saddle. I'd avoid heavy components up top. Even STI's tend to throw off the balance, and the key on this frame is balance. Keeping to a zero-setback post and a shorter stem, the frame seems to handle better.

I have no idea if what I'm saying makes sense, but the best builds I've done on this are sort of that way, keeping the rider more or less NOT out over the front or too much to the rear. Riding the drops makes this bike fun to ride; the tops just seems to throw it all off. I'm not sure i
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Old 02-17-17, 09:03 PM
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If I had that frame:

1-DA 7700 group. Light enough not to detract from the frame.

2-Good used headset.

3-Used FSA Carbon crankset on an Octalink or ISIS bottom bracket, or better yet, with external cups.

4-Light wheels under $300. At that price range, you should find excellent mid-range used wheels that are not too light or too heavy.

5-700x23's, and even extra weight here is felt on the bike. No Armadillos.

6-Light saddle. This bike should not have a lot of business for the saddle. The seating position should put 20% max of your weight on the saddle. The bike was not designed for resting on the saddle, just isn't. Get a bit forward and stay on the pedal.

7-Lighter side quill stem and bars. Cinelli combo, 3TTT or ITM, perhaps. Nothing high-rise, and fit to the drops.

Good luck. They're fun frames to build.
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Old 02-17-17, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
Ok, I'm home and nothing to do until I build a bike tomorrow for a guy coming in out of Boston.....

1-The headset may be trashed, but if it's 1" threadless (can't really tell), then I have 3-4 of those bearings just sitting here, not sure they fit that headset. You may wish to clean out the races and just see what gives. I like the Ritchey 1" threadless for that particular bike, and then minimal spacers if you can get away with it. I have a couple of those EMS forks, one for a 54cm and one for a 56cm frame.

Yes, it's a 1" threadless headset. I didn't take a photo, but I used some steel wool to buff off one of the races and cups, and under the corrosion is extensive brinneling and pitting. In this post you're suggesting the Ritchey threadless, but in the next post you mention a good used headset. Are you suggesting the Ritchey WCS Logic, in good used condition? I also see a very inexpensive 1" Silver Logic, which I'm guessing is not recommended.

2-The seat post must be dealt with carefully. There is an inner aluminum sleeve in that, and at the top of that sleeve is a thicker band with knurls inside it to grip the seat post. Any levered pressure against the top of the carbon tube in that area can easily crack it. Do NOT let the bike fall over with the seat post extended out and the saddle on it. That seat tube is designed to have the seat post bottom out inside it, so most posts should be cut to length to bottom out. The inner aluminum sleeve does not extend all the way down into the seat tube, and this gives the end of the seat post a bit of room to move around; it's better off bottomed out.

Are you saying that the seat post should be cut so that it doesn't extend below the aluminum sleeve?

3-Pay attention to the rear dropouts. They are bonded into the frame, aluminum, and non-replaceable. The threads in the RD hanger are fragile. If they strip out, DropOut Savers has a kit that works fine.

4-Yep, tire clearance is an issue. Learn to love some 700x23's. This is not a gravel bike, though the frame feel is great for that kind of riding.

I don't mind 23mm tires at all, so this is no problem.

5-Next up, the BB shell. Take things easy on the BB, and never overtighten. It's an aluminum sleeve in carbon, and I've seen the sleeves break loose. They can be re-glued, but it's not fun. I like external BB cups for that bike. The BB can and will loosen up and creak, so feel free to use grease on those threads and just keep an eye on it. Thread lightly, as those alumium threads will cross-thread in a heart beat.

The BB feels like it's in great shape, and spins smoothly and silently. I'm planning to let sleeping dogs lie.

6-Wheel selection. The frame is not springy or particularly agile; the bike is good on longer rides, not a crit bike by any means. Super stiff wheels make it worse. It's also not particularly great with fairly flexy wheels like Easton EA90's, but better. I've had great luck with mid-range wheels, and some older, therefore a bilt more flexible, Mavic Ksyriums. The bike looks good with more aero wheels, but full carbon's etc will be lost on it. Spinergy Rev-X's look cool, but if you want the frame to come alive, the Spinergy Xaero is dead in the performance/feel range for the bike. Super-light wheels tend to make the frame feel heavy, and heavy wheels make it bottom-heavy. Again, trial and error may be the way to go.

I just ordered some Flo 30s for my Cannondale. When they arrive I'm going to shift the Fulcrum Racing 7s that came with the Cannondale over to the Kestrel. They're reportedly 1840 gm. I know these are entry level wheels, but hopefully they'll do to start with. I'll keep my eyes open for some older Mavic Ksyriums. Or steal them off my wife's bike.

7-A set-back post is fine, with a shorter stem. The leverage of a longer stem makes the front ponderous. I built one with carbon bars and a carbon zero-setback post, and I'd go no longer than 100mm on the stem length.

I just swapped over to a fairly short stem, which I had on hand and measures 75mm c-t-c. The CF aero bars I just ordered have a somewhat long reach, so I'm thinking the short stem will harmonize here.

This bike tends to wear it's center of gravity low, and I don't know why. This makes it kind of floppy with a heavy saddle. I'd avoid heavy components up top. Even STI's tend to throw off the balance, and the key on this frame is balance. Keeping to a zero-setback post and a shorter stem, the frame seems to handle better.

I have two somewhat older, very light saddles that I'm going to try on this bike. The handlebars are light, and narrow (40mm). I'll start looking for a zero-setback CF post.

I have no idea if what I'm saying makes sense, but the best builds I've done on this are sort of that way, keeping the rider more or less NOT out over the front or too much to the rear. Riding the drops makes this bike fun to ride; the tops just seems to throw it all off. I'm not sure i


Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
If I had that frame:

1-DA 7700 group. Light enough not to detract from the frame.

I'll start watching everyone's favorite auction site.

2-Good used headset.

See my question above. Also, I'm thinking I should have the LBS pull the old headset and put in the new one. I like doing as much as I can myself, but this might be a bit much for me. What do you think?

3-Used FSA Carbon crankset on an Octalink or ISIS bottom bracket, or better yet, with external cups.

Do you think I shouldn't try to make a go of the current BB and the DA 7400 cranks?

4-Light wheels under $300. At that price range, you should find excellent mid-range used wheels that are not too light or too heavy.

5-700x23's, and even extra weight here is felt on the bike. No Armadillos.

I have an extra set of Conti GP4000s waiting.

6-Light saddle. This bike should not have a lot of business for the saddle. The seating position should put 20% max of your weight on the saddle. The bike was not designed for resting on the saddle, just isn't. Get a bit forward and stay on the pedal.

I have two Selle Italia Carbonio variants that should do the trick.

7-Lighter side quill stem and bars. Cinelli combo, 3TTT or ITM, perhaps. Nothing high-rise, and fit to the drops.

Now I'm confused. I have a threadless fork with 1" steerer tube.

Good luck. They're fun frames to build.
Many thanks, Robbie!
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Old 02-19-17, 07:38 AM
  #19  
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I'll PM your answers, then post a condensed version so others can read 'em.
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Old 02-19-17, 07:57 AM
  #20  
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Yes, it's a 1" threadless headset. I didn't take a photo, but I used some steel wool to buff off one of the races and cups, and under the corrosion is extensive brinneling and pitting. In this post you're suggesting the Ritchey threadless, but in the next post you mention a good used headset. Are you suggesting the Ritchey WCS Logic, in good used condition? I also see a very inexpensive 1" Silver Logic, which I'm guessing is not recommended.
I have a stack of the bearings. In some models of threadless headset, the condition of the races does not make a lot of difference, as the movement is in the bearing. As long as the bearings sit in the races, you're fine. As far as inexpensive headsets, no one on this forum, other than the touring guys, will ever outride their headset. We're not in that % of performers, despite what we want to believe. (My apologies to the truly fast or truly picky).


Are you saying that the seat post should be cut so that it doesn't extend below the aluminum sleeve?
No, the seatpost should be cut so that it bottoms out in the seat tube cavity. Unlike steel bikes, this seat tube is not hollow all the way to the bottom bracket. There is a bottom to it, and the seat post should be cut to sit on the bottom of the seat tube cavity.


The BB feels like it's in great shape, and spins smoothly and silently. I'm planning to let sleeping dogs lie.
Wise. Come talk to my Klein.

I'm going to shift the Fulcrum Racing 7s that came with the Cannondale over to the Kestrel. They're reportedly 1840 gm. I know these are entry level wheels, but hopefully they'll do to start with. I'll keep my eyes open for some older Mavic Ksyriums. Or steal them off my wife's bike.
I see no issue with Fulcum 7's. I've used them. I like the red rims on some of them. Light enough, and well suited to that frame. Make sure they're true. They're only issue with me is the longevity of the bearings, other than that, good wheels and excellent for the price.

Don't steal your wife's wheels. This could affect your n+1 addiction. Always keep your wife on a better bike than yours. There's no down side to that.



I just swapped over to a fairly short stem, which I had on hand and measures 75mm c-t-c. The CF aero bars I just ordered have a somewhat long reach, so I'm thinking the short stem will harmonize here.
You have a grip on your fit. This frame lets you keep that, but works better with it slight front of center, but not "over." Sounds like you're on track.


I have two somewhat older, very light saddles that I'm going to try on this bike. The handlebars are light, and narrow (40mm). I'll start looking for a zero-setback CF post.
Also keep in mind some decent alloy posts that are zero-setback, with the eye towards long enough ones to cut to fit. Again, this frame rides much differently in the drops.


1-DA 7700 group. Light enough not to detract from the frame. I'll start watching everyone's favorite auction site.

2-Good used headset. See my question above. Also, I'm thinking I should have the LBS pull the old headset and put in the new one. I like doing as much as I can myself, but this might be a bit much for me. What do you think?
As you've confirmed the threadless headset, Plan A could be the bearings I'll send you free, and Plan B could be a Ritchey. The idea of a high-performance headset is kind of, well, not. If your headset tools are a hammer and long screwdriver, let the LBS change the headset if you go Plan B.

3-Used FSA Carbon crankset on an Octalink or ISIS bottom bracket, or better yet, with external cups. Do you think I shouldn't try to make a go of the current BB and the DA 7400 cranks?
As you like the smooth square taper, stick with it. I have a DA 7410 crankset that you may like. Classy and light, last DA square taper.

5-700x23's, and even extra weight here is felt on the bike. No Armadillos.
I have an extra set of Conti GP4000s waiting.
Great.


6-Light saddle. This bike should not have a lot of business for the saddle. The seating position should put 20% max of your weight on the saddle. The bike was not designed for resting on the saddle, just isn't. Get a bit forward and stay on the pedal.
I have two Selle Italia Carbonio variants that should do the trick.
Done.

7-Lighter side quill stem and bars. Cinelli combo, 3TTT or ITM, perhaps. Nothing high-rise, and fit to the drops. Now I'm confused. I have a threadless fork with 1" steerer tube.
My bad. You gain with threadless flexibility. I've only seen one 200SCi with threadless as OEM, and converted another, so my mind was on threaded.

Again, good luck.
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Old 02-24-17, 05:57 AM
  #21  
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Threading cable through top tube

You are going to love that bike.

A suggestion on how I threaded the top top cable:

1. Start with dental floss, don't cut a piece off but just get a lot of slack and leave it attached to the case

2. feed it as far as you can from the stem

3. Hook up a vacuum and make a tight seel with your hand and suck the dental toss through.

4. Cut off the other end and tie your cable to it and pull it through.
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Old 02-24-17, 07:51 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Kestreljr View Post
You are going to love that bike.

A suggestion on how I threaded the top top cable:

1. Start with dental floss, don't cut a piece off but just get a lot of slack and leave it attached to the case

2. feed it as far as you can from the stem

3. Hook up a vacuum and make a tight seel with your hand and suck the dental toss through.

4. Cut off the other end and tie your cable to it and pull it through.
I've heard this works.

I use weed whacker line and it works great. The "curl" is perfect to come out of the holes. Then I tape it to the cable and pull it through.
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