Removing Surface Rust/Melted Gum Hoods
#1
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Bikes: 2011 Cannondale Carbon Synapse (Ultegra 6800 11-spd), 2009 Blue CXC, 1979 Univega Gran Turismo
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Removing Surface Rust/Melted Gum Hoods
So, I picked up this Univega Gran Turismo. It's a 1979 based on its lack of bottle cages (weird) and the brake setup. Overall the bike is in fantastic condition given it's 100% original components. The saddle might have been an upgrade at purchase, but is a 1979 women's specific saddle. I plan to replace the saddle, handlebar wrap, and cable housing to be matching brown.
The biggest concerns I have is the best method for removing this surface rust from components. They're in really good shape, I"ve ridden the bike around it's a smoothe operator given the age of the shifting cable, chain, etc. (a few pangs and skips as the bike gets used to being used again).
The old gum hoods are completely destroyed and stuck/melted to the brakes. What would be the best way to remove this gunk. Eventually I'll put some hoods on, but at least for now would like to get that melted rubber off of there and have a clean hood.
What should I use to clean the surface rust? I've heard some people say to use lime away or just use aluminum foil. I don't want to damage any of these components in the process but do want to address them in an appropriate (hopefully cheap) manner.
The biggest concerns I have is the best method for removing this surface rust from components. They're in really good shape, I"ve ridden the bike around it's a smoothe operator given the age of the shifting cable, chain, etc. (a few pangs and skips as the bike gets used to being used again).
The old gum hoods are completely destroyed and stuck/melted to the brakes. What would be the best way to remove this gunk. Eventually I'll put some hoods on, but at least for now would like to get that melted rubber off of there and have a clean hood.
What should I use to clean the surface rust? I've heard some people say to use lime away or just use aluminum foil. I don't want to damage any of these components in the process but do want to address them in an appropriate (hopefully cheap) manner.
#2
Mike J
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I've always used 0000-grade steel wool with WD-40 sprayed on it to remove rust. You can scrub fairly heavily on chrome with it since it's a fine-grade steel wool. Anything coarser and you'll scratch the chrome. This fine grade is excellent for cleaning up alloy parts before polishing with metal polish, just use a little less pressure. I've never had success with using aluminum foil.
#3
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As far as I can see from the photos, you only have to deal with light rust on the fork, quick releases, derailleurs, and maybe the headset and cable guides.
I would use aluminum foil on the forks and headset exposed parts followed by chrome polish and wax. The rest I would toss into a container of Evaporust for a day or two.
The old gum hoods are tougher. I would pick off as much crud as I could cold, and then after warming them up (maybe really warm, AKA boiling) pick again as soon as they can be handled. If you are going to put new hoods on, I would not obsess over getting every bit of the old stuff off.
I would use aluminum foil on the forks and headset exposed parts followed by chrome polish and wax. The rest I would toss into a container of Evaporust for a day or two.
The old gum hoods are tougher. I would pick off as much crud as I could cold, and then after warming them up (maybe really warm, AKA boiling) pick again as soon as they can be handled. If you are going to put new hoods on, I would not obsess over getting every bit of the old stuff off.
#4
Senior Member
Wow, original tires!!! You will need to replace those, as well as the tubes and rim strips, but keep them for mementos... Frankly clincher tires from that era were terrible and even modest modern tires will up the performance of that bike immensely. [/unsolicited advice... ]
Anyhow, I prefer to avoid mechanical rust removal if possible. First try for me is Barkeeper's Friend and water (keep it off the aluminum parts), followed by simichrome or ween polish. If necessary I'll use 0000 steel wool.
UV Gran Turismos were nice bikes at the time and rather zippy compared to their competitors.
Anyhow, I prefer to avoid mechanical rust removal if possible. First try for me is Barkeeper's Friend and water (keep it off the aluminum parts), followed by simichrome or ween polish. If necessary I'll use 0000 steel wool.
UV Gran Turismos were nice bikes at the time and rather zippy compared to their competitors.
#5
Senior Member
Get a primary container that's plastic, 1 gallon, w/lid. Get secondary containment = kitty litter tray. Take all the components off the bike. Chunk em in the 1 gallon container. Chunk 1 gallon container into kitty litter tray. Take the whole thing out to the shed. Pour about 1/2 gallon diesel fuel in there. Seal w/lid. Let the parts soak a week. Get goggles & elbow length nitrile lab gloves on. Get in there with a toothbrush & clean that stuff up. Easy peasy.
#6
Senior Member
I'm with @dweenk and vote for Evapo Rust. 24-48 hour soak for the parts. Aluminum foil rubdown on the chrome. You'll be pleased with the results.
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N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
#7
Still learning
Fine grade steel wool and Turtle wax chrome polish will take care of most rust. If you need to soak, wood bleach aka oxalic acid.
Aluminum polish of choice is Mothers.
Heat Gum hoods with a paint stripping gun, then they can be scraped off with a plastic putty knife.
Aluminum polish of choice is Mothers.
Heat Gum hoods with a paint stripping gun, then they can be scraped off with a plastic putty knife.
#8
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Works for me as well.
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#9
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It's sounding like the gum hoods are going to be a bigger pain than the components considering all of the recommendation involve heating and stripping.
All the components on this bike are steel correct? So I could essentially soak everything from the derailleurs, chain rings, cassette, pedals, handlebars, seat post, etc? If I strip the hoods I could do those too?
Not sure how much effort I'm going to put in to restoring this bike, but just wanting to get some bearings on what I could affordibly do to improve the appearance and ride and stripping rust and "rewiring" seem to be the top of the list for cosmetic and performance enhancing.
I'm glad somebody caught that this still has the original tires on them. The tires both still hold air too, though the schrader valve on the back is leaking a lot. That's ont he list too. Just need to decide how much time, and money, I want to sink into this bike or if it'd be better to flip and invest towards a modern tourer.
All the components on this bike are steel correct? So I could essentially soak everything from the derailleurs, chain rings, cassette, pedals, handlebars, seat post, etc? If I strip the hoods I could do those too?
Not sure how much effort I'm going to put in to restoring this bike, but just wanting to get some bearings on what I could affordibly do to improve the appearance and ride and stripping rust and "rewiring" seem to be the top of the list for cosmetic and performance enhancing.
I'm glad somebody caught that this still has the original tires on them. The tires both still hold air too, though the schrader valve on the back is leaking a lot. That's ont he list too. Just need to decide how much time, and money, I want to sink into this bike or if it'd be better to flip and invest towards a modern tourer.