How to Pull Campy Crankset?
 

I just bought an '86 Paramount with Campy crankset, FD, RD, etc.


While it appeared I could use one of my allen wrenches to pull the crank arms off and inspect the bearings, I found none of my wrenches would fit.


I'm guessing I need a special Campy tool???


If so, does anyone have a PN and source?


Anything else I might need to service the cups, bearings, etc?

Without photos it's hard to know exactly what you're dealing with, but no, I don't think you need a special campy tool; but you do need a crank puller. Are you familiar with the contents of this article:

Tool Tips-Cotterless Cranks

Most Campagnolo cranks use bog-standard 22mm crank pullers. The exceptions are a few models from the mid-80s that had a "self-extractor" system using a 7mm Allen key to pull the crank. If the self-extractor goes missing, the arm itself is threaded with a unique 22mm left-hand thread that requires a specific tool. Since this is the time period in which your bike was made, you will need to determine if your crank is one of the self-extracting models, and if so, that the self-extraction mechanism is still intact. If you post pictures of the crank, we should be able to identify it.

From earlier pictures posted, you have self extracting Victory cranks.

He's asking what size Allen wrench he needs for the extractors.

I am pretty sure it is 7 as I think a lot sets sometimes skip it. Try your local True Value or Ace and get a long handled if you can.

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...it's an irritating fact of life that most Allen wrench sets for bicycle use do not include the 7mm size. I think that's why Campagnolo used it in this instance. :)

Thanks gents. I'll pick up a 7mm and take it from there.

I have both C-Record and Victory cranksets from circa 1986.

7mm hex bolt with self extractors. The extractors are reverse (left-hand) threaded. There is absolutely no reason to remove the extractors - ever. I find it more secure installing and removing these arms with a Craftsman 7mm insert for a socket driver.

Inexplicably, there are a lot of these cranksets for sale on Ebay in which the extractors have been removed - possibly because the original owner stripped the hex heads by trying a 6mm key. These arms are worthless. Even more worthless are Victory crankarms without rings or the extractors. Useful 116 BCD rings (35-39 tooth) are now exceedingly rare.

I never liked those self-extractors. I love the C-Record crankset. So, the first thing I did was buy a Campagnolo 1170005 crank puller w/left hand threads and I removed the self extractors. The puller is still available at crazy prices. ex.: Campagnolo Crank Puller for Cranks with Left Hand Threads

LOL [MENTION=209177]3alarmer[/MENTION] - I am sure the Campagnolo designers schedule time in their product development plans for searching for hard to find tool sizes to include in their specifications!

I worked for a company (well known) who sourced automated test fixtures out of Ireland. The company designed custom coil springs in their design. They didn't have the equivalent of McMasters or other such resources and it was not in their engineering design culture to think of making things easily serviceable. When a spring broke (part of their engineering culture included the lack of effective analysis and testing) we had to buy the spring from them, they were the single source and none other would do.

It is 7mm for Campagnolo self-extractors.

Pro tip: 7mm Allen socket on a breaker bar.

...I have never quite forgotten Campagnolo's scurrilous shenanigans with chainring BCD's. :(

I have a cannondale from around the same time. Removing the crankset this one takes a 5mm and my regular crank puller that I use all the time .

I have a 7mm allen socket, and it was a pain to find. Had to order it from Autozone. Was originally considering taking a cheap 8mm socket, and grinding each face down by .020", but that would probably just grind the case off of it....

I have Excel with self extractors and I''ve been wondering which way do I turn to remove left and right arms? Normal? Abby-normal?

Lefty-loosy. Only the outside(extractor) threads are reversed, not the fixing bolt.

Slightly off topic but let us not forget the 3.5 needed for the Delta brakes

Sears' "Craftsman" tools don't have the cachet they used to have, but they're still warrantied for life, and the price is right:

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/ima...0&op_sharpen=1

Sears.com

Members routinely complain about Shimano's proprietary designs but Campagnolo had their fair share too. And let's not forget about the high failure rate of the flanges on Campagnolo's self-extracting crank bolts.

Using needle nose pliers, remove the bearing-retaining clip from the right side bearing adapter.
Use a long 10mm hex wrench to loosen and remove the crank bolt from the center of the spindle. ...
Pull each arm from the bottom bracket.
Remove the wavy washer from left bearing adapter.

Lady, Gents. Great intel. Thanks!

It is indeed 7mm. I found a 7mm socket at Lowes. $5.85.

So.....not having pulled a Campy, I'm guessing I can use the socket to pull off the crank arms and then get at the lock ring.

I may have missed it but do I need a special extractor?

BTW, here's a pic:

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr75/cqlink/8_f.jpg

...it's a "self extracting" bolt. It stays in the crank as you back it out, thus pulling off the crank

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Nice description.
Wrong forum.
This is mostly square taper territory. (or cotter pin country)
Brent

If you haven't started don't just muscle it off. I'd loosen the extractor bolt and make sure it moves freely, IIRC about a turn before it starts pushing against the retailer. It isn't easy but do try and dribble a little oil in microscopic gap, if you turn the extractor bolt back and forth to try and suck it in that may help. These can be a bear to get off if they are dry and the bolt head binds against the retainer. There usually a brash 'bearing' or even a Teflon washer between the two to aide it in sliding.

I always loved that crank but sadly it was never offered in 172.5