Identify this classic Pinarello!
 

I mentioned this in a previous thread. We finally got around to fixing the Pinarello.

I'll start off with this. It is the most aggressive bike I've ever ridden. Despite the fact that it's two sizes too big for me, I still felt like I was almost LYING DOWN trying to ride this bike. The stem itself has to be at least 4 inches long, and sloped downward. The wheels and tires that came with it are also super nice. Old school tubulars that have to be probably 19s if that... Anyway, here are the pics. Anyone want to lay the information on me?

Components as it came in were campy and modolo. We haven't adjusted the angle of the handlebars from when it came in, hence why it's so low.

I'm not sure if the campy derailleur is original, and it seems... odd. There is no b screw adjustment, and the way it mounts to the derailleur hanger it's... WAY far away from the cogs. A good 1.5 inches - 2 inches away from the cogs. And there is a stop that presses up against where the b screw would usually hit, so I can't loosen the derailleur bolt and twist the whole thing because the stop.... stops me. It does shift perfectly well (I mean it's friction), it's just... odd.

Me and the guys at the shop were thinking it was some sort of criterium bike, considering the rims/tires/and very little rake on the fork.

I think we sized it at a 58cm.

And yes, those are aero rims with bladed spokes with a freewheel hub. First time I've ever seen that...

https://s28.postimg.org/4bwgoxgil/IMG_1702.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/x2taezmcd/IMG_1703.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/buflxk7vh/IMG_1704.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/tyimi75jx/IMG_1705.jpg
Those eagle eyed of you will notice a slight... bend in the dropout. You're not wrong. It's probably one of the reasons the bike was donated. It's also the reason why I pulled the adjustment screws out of the dropout so that I could put the wheel all of the way back. I don't think I could squeeze the dropout back together without significantly damaging it, and the wheel stays in place (and is perfectly centered) when pulled all of the way back in the dropouts. My guess is someone shifted into the spokes and it bent the crap out of that dropout. The hanger needed a very large amount of alignment.

https://s28.postimg.org/56j0ayod9/IMG_1706.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/cns7q6dwd/IMG_1707.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/6o4gmit3x/IMG_1708.jpg
Don't worry, the wheel DOES sit centered. I had to lean the bike over and take this pic at a weird angle to keep my shadow out of the picture, hence why the tire looks slightly offset.

https://s28.postimg.org/p4yvdc925/IMG_1709.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/isobh8vdp/IMG_1710.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/509wlm4m5/IMG_1712.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/88edynqvx/IMG_1713.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/stt5qk8gt/IMG_1714.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/cwudtug2l/IMG_1715.jpg

Nice old Pinny! Did you look at catalogues to identify?

Part of the reason the RD is so far from the block is the damage to the DO. The other reason may well be the chain length. They need to be addressed in that order.

There isn't anything really unusual about the bike and its set up, except maybe the bladed spokes but even that can be expected. Your statements sound like you are young!

Others will may chime in as to what can be done about the DO. Care must be taken in bending it back. The likely place that it will fail is where the axle adjustment screws are located. If an attempt is made to bend it back, make sure the screws are in place. Although the DO may be stamped or cast (don't recall which, but think stamped), it is still malleable as evidenced by the current state. The question of repairability is about work hardening. I believe some have had success bending them back. You may want to do a search on the subject. the alternative is to find a frame builder to replace the DO. Finding a direct replacement may be a challenge. Of course, paint will be damaged in the process.

That front hub should not be laced with radial spoking. I don't like the pattern on the rear either. The frame is large enough that a large fellow could ride it and have failures either on the front or rear with failed hub flanges. Looks like a weiight-weenie set up.

What was fixed?

I bought a Pinarello about 3 years ago and have over 3500 miles on it. It is fun to ride. I have a hard time keeping up with it. I will be swapping over to tubulars at some point in time as that is the right thing to do!

It could be bent back with a lot of patience and heat. You can't use a regular propane torch you need something called map gas, still a single bottle but burns hotter. I had a somehow gotten a a pair of nuts for a extra long CampI axle and use to put that in the other dropout to use as a guide.

A skilled hand can close that dropout with an adjustable wrench. I'd let someone who really knows what they are doing take care of it (Like an accomplished framebuilder.) With that trailing rear wheel, it's a rouleur and not a critty. It's really a beauty. Love the eclectic parts. That tells the story of a bike that was really used by a bike rider for a few years.

I imagine T-Mar will be along shortly to give us a definitive answer, but I like trying to identify old Pinarellos so I'll give it a shot. To me, the frame looks like a dead ringer for a 1985 Record.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8327/8...bf7f372f_b.jpg

If so, it would have been sold as a frameset and the components added a la carte, which looks right.

^ Beat me to it.

I hope that rear DO can be fixed - it would be a shame to toss that in the trash. And I agree, it looks as though someone loved and rode the hell out of that bike!

Nice score, and good luck getting it back to normal.

DD

check on framebuilders forum for ideas for that drop out.

There are at least 2 frame builders in bozeman, Kirk and strong, but don't know if they do repairs

worst case PM me, my brother is in Bozeman, has background in welding and access to tools.... I might be able to sweet talk him into helping, but would get ideas from frame builders forum first

I saw [MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION] fix a dropout problem like that on [MENTION=401497]RiddleOfSteel[/MENTION]'s Paramount rescue. I don't remember exactly how he did it but as I recall it involve a simple tool and brute force. Watching gugie work on frames is a bit like watching someone make sausage -- sometimes I think I'd rather not see it, but the results soon make me forget the unpleasantness of the process.

The only thing I could think of to fix it would be a set of needle nose vise grips between the dropout hanger (ugh) and the small triangle of the dropout itself. But, that's probably very likely to ruin the threads of the dropout hanger and mar the dropout itself.

probably just fix it with a c-clamp. http://imavex.vo.llnwd.net/o18/clien...e_12__8523.jpg

put some small wood blocks to pad and hold the dropout (cut a V in a chunk of wood for the drop out to sit in) then twist!

I thought about a clamp, but what you aren't seeing in the picture is that the dropout hanger is in the way, and there is no purchase for the clamp to "grab onto" toward the open end of the dropout. So I'd either have to clamp onto the hanger (bad idea, perhaps ok if there was a bolt in it.) or clamp further up the dropout. The latter likely wouldn't work at all.

EDIT: OR use a long bolt that pokes out both sides of the dropout hanger then use a "U" channel piece of iron to protect the hanger. Yeah, that's definitely not likely to spin around under pressure and spring out with significant force... :rolleyes:

put a 25t or 28t cog on that freewheel (not the style of the times, i know) and the derailleur wouldn't look so far away, is what i'm thinking. DO being bent doesn't help at all, however. :)

my brother-in-law would put that bent part of the DO in a vise, telling me, with a wild look in his eye, that it was critical as to exactly HOW much of the bent portion was in the vise and and then push down on the headtube or seattube until... it broke off. :eek:

I see that problem- thus the block of wood. but to make it super safe: take a 2x4 or some such, drill a hole in it so that the hanger can fit up inside the wood. then drill another hole perpendicular to that so that you can run a bolt through the wood, the hanger, and and secure it all up so it wont get crushed, or move side to side. then clamp away!

That simple tool was an 8" adjustable wrench. Use the "wrong end" for this repair, the round hole that most use to hang it on a pegboard hook:

https://content.artofmanliness.com/u...ablewrench.jpg

I learned this one way back in my LBS days. Slip it over the derailleur hanger and use the derailleur stop - the little "tab" on the bottom - to catch the edge of the lip and give it a little force until it bends a bit:

http://www.classicrendezvous.com/ima.../Camp1010L.jpg

The dropout was bent "open". Bend it back. Be careful to stay in the same plane as the upper face of the dropout. If you have a set of calipers, make sure the gap is the same front to back, and check to make sure the wheel still goes in.

Wheels don't hang from the bottom part of the dropout, all of the force is upward through the top face, so it's not like you're making the frame unsafe to ride.

Alternatively, you could find a closed end wrench to do the same job. I'd bet you could get creative and find something else.

The main reason most people are afraid to bend steel frames back into shape or change the dropout width is FUD. Judicious use of force and practice will get you over that.

Well, the guy I watched use an adjustable wrench, used a very large wrench, and opened it wide enough to hook on top of the dropout, and then he rolled it forward slowly and pressed the dropout into it's perfect original shape. Again, I'd let someone who knew what they were doing do that.

....

The palmares decal puts it from sometime shortly after the 1984 Olympics to sometime shortly after the 1988 TdF. However, it appears to have a pump peg, which would bump the earliest date up to a 1986 model. It would not appear to be a 1987 based on extant catalogs, which do not show a road model with both chain stays chromed with the exception of the Montello, which this definitely isn't. So it would appear to be 1986.

Regarding the model, it does have both chain stays chromed and the cast shell, like the 1985 Record. Consequently, it could be the 1986 version. The Record was gone by 1987 and the Treviso had inherited the cast shell, though not the chroming on both chain stays. Unfortunately, there is a dearth of information on 1986 models. The Treviso may have gotten the cast shell in 1986 and had both chain stays chromed. So, it could be either a Record or Treviso, as I don't know their exact configurations for 1986 (except the Montello). Regardless, the record and Treviso are both Columbus SL frames, with only minor differences.

Matrix rims came on and were sold by Trek. I had a pair of 28° rims with bladed spokes for time trialing in the mid 80s.

Yup, 5 minutes with a C clamp,......and it will be good as new!

Lots of good ways to do this, but here's a pic to show you how I did it:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4155/3...d22e0970_b.jpg

I thought the treviso always had a full chrome fork... so id say record. But i could be wrong about the fork thing