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What does bottom bracket spindle pitting look like?

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What does bottom bracket spindle pitting look like?

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Old 05-19-17, 12:54 PM
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What does bottom bracket spindle pitting look like?

I recently dove into what I thought was "deep waters" and did an overhaul of the bottom bracket on my '81 PXN10E. I made a little video showing exactly "why" I did that, but besides a bit of struggle to get the fixed cup out, it really wasn't as complicated as I somehow imagined it might be. (I'm also baffled by how people can service the bottom bracket and replace the drive side bearings without removing the fixed cup, as I've seen mentioned many times, but that's a topic for another thread).


Anyway, I don't really have any questions about the "process" of that BB overhaul. Numerous threads here in BF and Youtube videos explained pretty much everything I needed to know. After reading an older thread about BB pre-load, I'm starting to wonder if the freely spinning crank in that video is actually not optimal. But that wasn't the concern that prompted me to start this thread.

I have a question about my spindle. Everything I've read and watched suggested just cleaning up your existing spindle as long as it is not "pitted" or damaged in some other way. My spindle and cups cleaned up pretty nice with nothing more than mineral spirits. And it spins pretty nicely with a fresh set of 1/4" ball bearings. But I did notice a few small "pits" on one end of the spindle. But I don't know if these are "big" enough to be considered pitting that is bad enough to warrant replacing the spindle (or maybe sanding it).

Would appreciate any comments.







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Old 05-19-17, 12:59 PM
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The bearings contact the other side of that flange, any any pits on the inside are irrelevant.
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Old 05-19-17, 01:08 PM
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The other sides that face the cups looked great. I wasn't sure if those pits shown above would somehow weaken the integrity of the spindle or otherwise be an issue. I'm going to assume that since you didn't raise the alarm after looking at it that it's fine. Thanks.
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Old 05-19-17, 01:13 PM
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If you installed it correctly and could turn the spindle before installing the crank arms, without detecting any roughness, then it's fine.
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Old 05-19-17, 01:47 PM
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These markings seem a little suspect. Can you take better pictures of the outer surfaces?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
spindle.jpg (92.9 KB, 122 views)
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Old 05-19-17, 01:51 PM
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Here's a spindle of mine, that taught me the value of preventative maintenance:

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Old 05-19-17, 01:55 PM
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Even if you can feel a little roughness, they are fine. I thought about seeking new old stock for my PX-10 or my Medici which are each a "little" pitted but they spin great and I figured that I would get lazy someday after a rainy ride and put pits in a new one anyway. BTW, Why is the only current production loose ball BB a Sugino 75?
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Old 05-19-17, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
Here's a spindle of mine, that taught me the value of preventative maintenance:
Thanks for that pic as it gives me some frame of reference on what to look for.


Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
These markings seem a little suspect. Can you take better pictures of the outer surfaces?
I should have done just that before I put it back together, but the outer surfaces seemed fine to me. There was that "discoloration" you see in that pic, but it was smooth to the touch. When I ran my thumbnail over those areas, it didn't catch or anything. The next time I do a tune-up, I'll get better pics of the surfaces that really matter and stop worrying about minor imperfections that don't matter!


Originally Posted by Classtime
Even if you can feel a little roughness, they are fine. I thought about seeking new old stock for my PX-10 or my Medici which are each a "little" pitted but they spin great and I figured that I would get lazy someday after a rainy ride and put pits in a new one anyway. BTW, Why is the only current production loose ball BB a Sugino 75?
I always figured I'd have to just go with a sealed cartridge BB if I wear this spindle or cups out. I was surprised to read so many posts here with people preferring the older style with loose ball bearings. I didn't even know there were any current production loose ball ones until your post!



Originally Posted by due ruote
If you installed it correctly and could turn the spindle before installing the crank arms, without detecting any roughness, then it's fine.
At first, I kept accidentally tightening the adjustable cup as I was tightening the lockring, and kept going from a smooth turn with my hand on the spindle to a bit rough. The tool I ordered for the adjustable cup hadn't come in yet, but I was eventually able to prevent the cup from tightening with the lockring by sticking a skinny allen wrench in one of the holes. As soon as I figured that out, the spindle spun freely with no play that my newbie mechanical brain could detect. Thanks for the comment.
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Old 05-19-17, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Toolong2
There was that "discoloration" you see in that pic, but it was smooth to the touch. When I ran my thumbnail over those areas, it didn't catch or anything. The next time I do a tune-up, I'll get better pics of the surfaces that really matter and stop worrying about minor imperfections that don't matter!
One trick I read about and used on the BBs, hubs, and headsets I've opened up is you take a ball point pen and run the tip over the bearing surfaces. With the pen you'll feel any roughness or minor pitting. If the pen tip travels smoothly over the surfaces, they're fine.
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