1984 Peugeot 12 Vitesse - New Zealand
#76
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LOL! Yes indeed. Someone of old clearly liked variety.

Yes I noticed the same and am beginning to wonder what I've started. It signals what must be a fairly significant project on its own, never mind the paintwork and broken front DR!
#77
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A number of low/mid/high level bikes from several manufacturers shipped their bikes stock with Maillard hubs during the Helicomatic years. Trek was a big one, '84/'85 (ish) at least, several models came with Helicomatic rear stock. That one is fresh in my head as I'm getting rid of a 660 this week.
#78
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My '84 PH10LE came with the Helicomatic-Maillard rear gear cluster and hub. I bought the bike brand new in '85. I'm still riding that set up today. It has RIGIDA 27x1 1/4 alloy rims. Also still in use today, and the blue RIGIDA stickers on the rims are as good as the day they were new.
Jon
Jon
#79
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This is slightly off topic but look at what I found while searching for Shimano 600 DR sets....
PUCH MistralSE Aerodynamic Racing Bike Reynolds531 Shimano 600AX | eBay
At first glance at thumbnail images and for a brief moment I thought it was looking at the same model bike as mine. Just shows looks can be deceiving! At least the colour is similar and this is something to aim for, although probably higher than I am able to reach!
What worries me is, if not careful I could end up spending $1100 on my own bike making it look as good. Must try to avoid that!
PUCH MistralSE Aerodynamic Racing Bike Reynolds531 Shimano 600AX | eBay
At first glance at thumbnail images and for a brief moment I thought it was looking at the same model bike as mine. Just shows looks can be deceiving! At least the colour is similar and this is something to aim for, although probably higher than I am able to reach!

What worries me is, if not careful I could end up spending $1100 on my own bike making it look as good. Must try to avoid that!
Last edited by bstrummer; 06-18-17 at 11:25 PM.
#80
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I reckon I will have spare Derailleurs that you could use while figuring things out, it is most important to get it riding, then spend the money on other parts Powdercoat etc.
As I said above, happy to lend you a crank tool as well.
As I said above, happy to lend you a crank tool as well.

#81
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Thanks for the offer. Most appreciated. Will see how I go but so far have not had success finding the required socket. I haven't yet caught up with my brother but will soon.
Yes I may be interested in the rear wheel. I'm still getting my head around what's needed but, as you may have seen, mine isn't in the best condition - or at least the close-photos suggest a bit of work needs to be done. What sort of rim does your spare rear wheel have?
#82
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Thanks again. That is very generous of you. Yes I agree it makes sense.
#83
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Apologies - I missed your message for some reason. The email notifications from this forum seem to have stopped working for me and I was following other responses.
Thanks for the offer. Most appreciated. Will see how I go but so far have not had success finding the required socket. I haven't yet caught up with my brother but will soon.
Yes I may be interested in the rear wheel. I'm still getting my head around what's needed but, as you may have seen, mine isn't in the best condition - or at least the close-photos suggest a bit of work needs to be done. What sort of rim does your spare rear wheel have?
Thanks for the offer. Most appreciated. Will see how I go but so far have not had success finding the required socket. I haven't yet caught up with my brother but will soon.
Yes I may be interested in the rear wheel. I'm still getting my head around what's needed but, as you may have seen, mine isn't in the best condition - or at least the close-photos suggest a bit of work needs to be done. What sort of rim does your spare rear wheel have?
#84
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I found some selling for US$14 via eBay but the cost of customs fees and postage to New Zealand is US$15. That translates to around NZ$40 which is good money that can go towards other things. The multi-grips (carefully used) are beginning to look like a very good option for me!
Last edited by bstrummer; 06-19-17 at 06:28 PM.
#85
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I reckon MT Albert mowers and cycles will have the tool if you get stuck, he has been around for ages
#86
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Yep, they will be able to help I am sure.
#88
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I spoke to the owner who recognised the bike frame as 'top of the line from Healing'. I think he was horrified to hear where the bike has been stored but too polite to criticise. He was quick to mention the Helicomatic hub and says he's got the special tool 'somewhere at home'. He seems interested and happy to help out.
#89
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I've checked the rear wheel again. The spokes seem solid enough although 'blobs' of rust have formed on some. I've managed to dislodge the rust in some cases with fine wire wool. Perhaps some replacement spokes and eyelet replacement would be good. I'm not sure I want to go as far as replacing every spoke although to completely disassemble would make it easier to polish the rim. It doesn't look too difficult so long as the spokes are inserted in the correct places. Are the spokes, eyelets and nipples readily available these days?
#90
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Close-up photography makes things look a lot scarier than viewed with the naked eye but it's a good way of gauging how successful cleaning/polishing is. Here are before and after images of tentative spoke nipple+eylet cleaning with tiny brass wire brush and Autosol metal polish. As you can see, a slight improvement with a bit more effort needed.
I'm not sure how best to preserve the label but perhaps with the right kind of glue the edges can be secured.
I'm not sure how best to preserve the label but perhaps with the right kind of glue the edges can be secured.
#91
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Here is an example of wheel rim polishing with fine wire wool and a very light automotive rubbing compound. The wire wool is more effective than the latter so perhaps it's not worth wasting more of it.
These are not actual 'before and after' photos but examples of different sections of the rear wheel rim, one polished and the other not. It takes some perseverance to polish an entire rim but the end result will be satisfying to see.
These are not actual 'before and after' photos but examples of different sections of the rear wheel rim, one polished and the other not. It takes some perseverance to polish an entire rim but the end result will be satisfying to see.
#92
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Here is an example of lightly wire brushing some of the frame rust to see what happens. Obviously it won't completely remove the damage but there has been some toning down. Likewise on a small section of the chrome forks that has been brushed.
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Looks fine really, and it will ride beaut.
The eyelets are not really replaceable, and I am happy to lend you a set of wheels to get it going, I have 2nd hand cables, tubes etc,
The eyelets are not really replaceable, and I am happy to lend you a set of wheels to get it going, I have 2nd hand cables, tubes etc,
#94
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Thanks again. Yes I came to that realisation re the eyelets. The window of opportunity I have enjoyed to fully concentrate on the bike is coming to an end but I'm happy that the frame is now stripped of parts, except for the plastic guide for derailleur cables attached by single rivet to the BB shell. I'm still thinking of having the frame re-painted and perhaps the plastic piece can be masked off given that the paint is ok underneath. I'm not sure yet whether or not replacing/upgrading the cable guide is recommended.
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Cable guide will be fine, they are pretty hardy.
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No name, no shame
I just completed a rebuild of my Peugeot PH10LE, not super light, but great steel feel. Powder coated, no decals now. I bent the fork in an accident, and replaced with a carbon fork from Nashbar. Had already replaced crank and bb with Ultegra ones which fit shell perfectly. So with the lighter crank and fork, it's pretty sprighty.
Fork required cobbling a few different headsets parts so as not to (return another fork and) cut a steerer. I replaced the heliomatic hub years ago (swapped in a standard 7-speed cassette on a new inexpensive wheel), but was able to service/remove the old hub with regular clamping pliers while I had it. For updating, there are still compatibility issues with these 80's Pugs (length of steerer tube, seat tube diameter, ) but worth it for a nice mix of old and new, on a nameless bike. Some steel wool and never-dull goes a long way in updating the old components. Who cares what it was! I got the frame powder coated in Tucker GA - it looks rather nice in the 'ice green" color.

#97
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It's a masterpiece! :-) I admire your courage to reinvent your bike to your satisfaction. As another member said, if it's not a Tour de France (or another similarly significant competition) winner then why not go for a completely new look. I personally wouldn't be able to resist the temptation of fitting new Peugeot decals but of course there'd be no real need to if you're happy with a 'no name' bike. Interesting too what you did with the wheels and other components. Thanks for sharing.
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It's a masterpiece! :-) I admire your courage to reinvent your bike to your satisfaction. As another member said, if it's not a Tour de France (or another similarly significant competition) winner then why not go for a completely new look. I personally wouldn't be able to resist the temptation of fitting new Peugeot decals but of course there'd be no real need to if you're happy with a 'no name' bike. Interesting too what you did with the wheels and other components. Thanks for sharing.
#99
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I have seen the PH10LE decals online, but besides the frame, seatpost, bars and brake shifters, it's a new bike, so it would seem weird labeling it a Peugeot. I thought about getting different decals, I like the lesser older U-08 checkered style. Then I figure just leave it clean...
#100
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The latest development and unexpected sequel to my original post is that I've purchased a second similar Peugeot 12-speed for NZ$135. The idea was to obtain spare parts. However, it turned out to be in better condition than first realised. According to the previous owner it has been serviced by a local bike shop and one of the tyres is not far off being brand new. The work cost more than the sale price and apart from a puncture (now repaired) the bike is in perfectly good ridable condition. Interestingly for me, the bike's serial number is very close to that of the bike I started out with, suggesting that one was made within a week or so of the other. The running gear of the second bike is quite different. I haven't yet identified everything but I am assuming a combination of Shimano and Suntour. The brake handles have been replaced by something generic and as you can see the handle bars have been 'modified'. I'm happy to report I have been doing more cycling than bike dismantling lately! The $135 is less than the cost of a powder coated frame and chrome plated forks. A lesson learnt there!