bstrummer

That's a really nice looking bike! Wonderful, thank you.
Yes I do feel reassured now about the orange tones. There may well have been variances in the printing processes. I wonder if colors can darken with age. Maybe.
I even think it wouldn't be a sin to add the Carbolite decal. Somehow the bike looks more complete with it.

bstrummer

Continuing my search for information about NZ Peugeot bikes of the 1980s, by remarkable coincidence I have found Hadland's Blog and an article entitled 'New Zealand Bikes of the 1980s'. There's no mention of Peugeot bikes as such but further down the page is a question posted by a Bob Summerville seeking information about the manufacture of Peugeot frames in NZ. Interesting to me is his mention of a sticker unique to NZ as follows:
"a small sticker (not decal) which indicates the bike was made in New Zealand by Healing Industries under licence from Peugeot Cycles. There are no Reynolds or other steel class info decals. The 5 figure serial number matches a similar bike posted from NZ in Bike Forums"

1simplexnut

Hi .
Pretty darn sure my one did not have a tubing decal .
It is 40 odd years ago though . :-)
Bought it brand new from Penny farthing cycles in Khyber pass
Oh the memories !
Have fun with the build .

bstrummer

That was a great shop in a prime position! Shame it is no more.
Yeah, so far signs are those frames were locally made. I know it doesn't really matter but hopefully it can be proven definitely.
The final clear coat went on today. Next job is to find some 2000 grit wet and dry, mild cutting compound and polish. Have been looking forward to this stage.

bstrummer

I've decided to edit this post due to over-thinking the problem...twice...and to assist anyone facing the same issue.

After applying two initial clear coats to the frame to protect the paint and decals, I noticed the decal edges were not covered sufficiently and at risk of lifting. In fact one corner of the letter E was noticeably lifting. I considered using contact glue to stick it back down but decided to build up further clear coat layers instead. Before further coats went on, the decal edge was pressed down with a round ended plastic tool from an electronics/computer tool kit.

The exercise has taught me to slow down the rate of movement while spraying and be sure the clear appears to look wet when it goes on. There's a fine balance between just enough and too much, and likewise being too close and too far away from the frame tubes. I guess practice makes perfect and careful observation goes a long way too.

I've also learnt from a car spray painting website that it's advisable to apply the first clear coat lightly. "Doing so helps prevent shrinkage, which causes cracks. Additional coats should be full and wet."

Now the frame has had 5 clear coats and the decal edges are smooth.

I've waited 2 days for the clear to fully cure. The final polishing will begin soon.



Decal lifting

bstrummer

Here are some photos showing the frame after sanding and polishing. It took about an hour and a half to complete.
The process involved wet sanding with 1500 then 3200 (yes really!) wet and dry.
After a quick clean sanding was followed by a light cut and polish.
The close-ups emphasize small surface imperfections but it’s the overall effect that counts.
I think it was worth the extra effort and it's safe to say ‘job done’!



Decal fully covered by clear coats






Decal fully covered by clear coats

francophile 

Looks good!!

bstrummer

Thanks! Got there in the end and I'm very happy with the end result.

bstrummer

I have two sets of chrome forks for this project. Both are usable but one is not as aesthetically pleasing due to rust. The better looking set has some rust spots that can't be removed but overall it's not bad. However, there's some pitting marks in the crown race whereas the one attached to the rusty forks is in better condition, without such imperfections. I'm not sure if the pitting is a serious issue. Is it worth swapping the crown rings? Going by other forum posts I understand it is possible but not so easily done.

BTW I'm assuming it's ok to put this question here rather than in a new post, as it relates to the same bike project.

I'm also anticipating replies asking if I really want to pair up rusty forks with a nicely painted frame!


Crown race pitting

1simplexnut

You need to replace that . Not tricky at all to do . Even a rough ba'tard like me can do it .
Do you know what the head set is brand wise ? Let me know and I can have a dig through for a race in my stash for you :-)
Send me a PM if you prefer ?

francophile 

If you have a good crown race, swap it. You don't need special tools, actually. In a tight situation, you can flip the fork with steer tube downward and tap the edge of the race a couple of times per side to knock it off - may take a couple cycles. If you have don't have a race setting tool, a piece of PVC pipe that'll fit over the steer tube will work with a BFH (big f'n hammer). Slide the race centered into place, slide the PVC over the steer tube, and hammer the race into place with the BFH. Easy peasy.

bstrummer

Great thanks for the description. Yes I'm sure the spare is in good shape. Not sure why I thought the procedure was difficult. I will blame my speed reading!

bstrummer

Thanks 1simplexnut. I'm not sure what brand the head set is but assumed it is original to the NZ Peugeot frame. There are no markings on it as far as I can see.
I think I have the required part but will let you know if it doesn't work out. Thanks again.

francophile 

And really, there's nothing overly special about the crown race on your specific model. Sunlite makes individual crown races you can buy on Amazon or at any generic bike outlet, likely for around 10 NZD. To figure out which is correct, either measure the ID of the race you tap off at its widest, or measure the OD of the boss at the crown/steertube junction to figure out. I want to say you'll find it's a 27.0mm but can't confirm b/c you've said the kiwi frames were likely made by someone else.

bstrummer

The crown races came off far more easily than I imagined thanks to BFH and an old, blunt edged screwdriver. The ID looks to be 27.0mm when measured with a ruler whereas with callipers I get 26.5mm.

It's good to know it is an easily serviceable item and readily available.

There's a difference in the amount of thread on the two steerer tubes. Some thread is missing from the steerer tube on the better forks but there must be sufficient thread for it to be assembled securely in the first place.

Thread comparison.

braydonw

I found your thread in searching for the NZ Built Peugeot frames.
My Dad recently gave me his old Peugeot as I've been getting more into cycling, and on investigation I found the "Made in New Zealand by Healing Industries" Sticker that's been mentioned in this thread.
Mine looks almost identical to your second frame you picked up, but not quite, different stickers etc. Can share some photos if you like.
Just thought I'd pop in and say thanks for some of the extra info in this thread that I couldn't find in many other places!

bstrummer

It's good to know this thread has been helpful to others.
Thanks for confirming existence of the Made in New Zealand sticker. Yes I'd be interested to see it if you feel like sharing a photo.
I'm guessing there were variations on the decals for these NZ made bikes. The ones that eventually were stuck on to the painted frame were imported from the UK and the nearest I could find to the original ones. A pretty good match.
Unfortunately after finishing the frame paintwork, the re-build has stalled as life got more complicated and difficult over the last couple of years. I'm toying with the idea of asking a vintage bike repairer near where I live to do the assembly for me, to move things along. But I may need a lottery win first!

bstrummer

As predicted in my October 2022 post, my Peugeot 12-Vitesse is currently being assembled for me by my local bike mechanic Josca Craig-Smith who trades as 'Joscat Craft'. The work is being treated as a low-priority job so that the process can be enjoyed rather carried out under stress of meeting a deadline. There are plenty of details I would undoubtedly have missed had I attempted this myself. I understand the satisfaction of working on a project to completion but sometimes it is better to simply enjoy the pleasure of anticipating a job well done by an expert.

Assembly in progress - at last!

1simplexnut

Good to see the progress . There have a couple of that model/colour recently for sale locally .
I have a green Vitus980 frame build that has stalled also .
Frame made in NZ by Healing according to sticker .
All good fun .

bstrummer

Thanks for the great pic. Yes definitely, frames made by Healing in Rosebank Road Auckland if I have my facts right. Mine didn't have the sticker. Have reproduction decals and been wondering if I would be committing fraud by adding the 'Made in France' labeling! The repro experts didn't think of us here 'down under'. :-)
There's also a '‘Carbolite 103’ label but I’m not sure if that would be strictly correct for my bike frame.

1simplexnut

hiya - My memory of my own machine is there was no tubing detail decal .
Dont recall ever seeing one on any of the recent kiwi machines seen online.

Recently got hold of some Peugeot NZ marketing info from 1983, showing bike build and pricing from back then .
MAde interesting reading ( but I am just weird )
Some pics attached .
Your blue one is the PBN10 .





retail $645.00 in 1983 !

bstrummer

Wow! That is very interesting thank you!
I should like to note that I am 1.94 metres tall. So perhaps I need a larger frame still! :-)
Is the PBN10S the same as PBN10?

bstrummer

1simplexnut

Hiya - The spidel is appropriate , and the 600 will work nicely .

Those simplex dropout screws dont need/use springs . They thread through the plastic bit and have a capped hex nut on them
I probably have a couple of spares .
Send me a PM if you like ?

1simplexnut

hi- the lack of the 'S' on the PBN10 only happens the once , so presume a typo .
(literally as it would have been typed back then ! )