zammykoo

This 1985 Trek 510 has probably seen many owners through the decades and somewhere along the way the hubs were swapped out. The current ones (vintage Nukeproof freehub) seem a bit wide and slightly stretches frame a bit when I install/remove the rear wheel, so I would like to get properly sized hubs.

Looking up the list of original components, it appears it came equipped with Campy Triomphe hubs (126mm?). Is this the size that I'm supposed to look for? I'd like to get confirmation before I start my search.

Second question: if I go back to the original hub spacing would I need to worry about any frame issues? I don't know how long these hubs have been on this bike but the dropouts do spring back together when the wheel is removed, so I suspect it would be ok.

Thanks!

bikemig 

Best way to find out is to measure the drop out spacing which is likely, as you surmised, 126. One good measurement beats an educated guess any day of the week.

The Nukeproof freehub is likely 130. So maybe the PO spread the rear frame to 130 (in which case you might as well stay with that). Or it might be that the stays were pushed apart to let the wheel in (we're only talking about 2 mm per side). This won't hurt the bike.

I'd measure the drop outs. If it measures 126, I'd be tempted to spread it to 130 to go with a modern hub. You may not wish to do this, in which case I'd find a suitable 126 rear hub.

zammykoo

I will measure it today and see what we have. I didn't know if that was a good way to determine the spacing since the frame was already forced by the wider hub.

Velocivixen

Measuring is the best way. If original cluster was a 6-speed then likely 126mm spacing. For a 5-speed 120 mm (referring to road bikes).

JohnDThompson 

Trek frames were spaced at 120mm until about 1981, then 126mm. So unless your 1985 frame was later re-spaced to a different spec, it should be 126mm.

zammykoo

As you all have said, the dropouts do measure exactly 126mm. @bikemig you're also right about the hub at 130mm.

I may end up keeping it on there as it rides fine, but the only thing that bugs me is the wheel is not dead center. I am wondering if the jammed-in hub has caused the dropouts to be out of alignment, or simply if the wheel was not re-dished for the conversion. Wheel building is foreign to me so I would not be comfortable doing it myself. Or maybe it's a good opportunity to learn... hmm.

bikemig 

How do you know that the wheel is not dished properly? There is a tool for figuring that out. If it's not properly dished, you can center it. If it is properly dished, I'd just ride it.

ThermionicScott 

Sheldon Brown has a good article on checking the alignment of the rear triangle: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-s....html#symmetry