Calling BianchiGirll: Advised on Saving old Celeste...
#26
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The "crackle" or "checking" is a (highly desirable) quality possessed by ceramics fired in the Raku tradition, and is known as a Raku finish in one of my worlds.
Much as "patina" is misused in this C&V world, perhaps "Raku" can be (in)appropriately applied as a descriptor for paint exhibiting the minute fractalization? (Or fractalized works too?)
(Oh, and by the way, I echo the sentiment expressed by many others that the finish should stay. It's gorgeous.)
Much as "patina" is misused in this C&V world, perhaps "Raku" can be (in)appropriately applied as a descriptor for paint exhibiting the minute fractalization? (Or fractalized works too?)
(Oh, and by the way, I echo the sentiment expressed by many others that the finish should stay. It's gorgeous.)
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A store that sells auto paint can match any color and put it in a can. And if you match the paint as it looks now, you should get a better match than if you could find the original Celeste.
It probably wouldn't be just exactly perfect as paint matching never seems to work that way, but it would be as close as you can get.
It probably wouldn't be just exactly perfect as paint matching never seems to work that way, but it would be as close as you can get.
With that said, bianchi celeste would be pretty easy to match. No metallic flake, seems to be a heavily white based paint, it covers well, and the paint is not transparent at all. It'd be a lovely paint to match actually.
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The cracking paint is not limited to Bianchi. Here is a 1972 Motobecane Le Champion with micro cracking. You have to look closely but it is there not only on the light color but also in the blue.
[IMG]
2008-06-01 08.52.48, on Flickr[/IMG][IMG]
2008-06-07 15.40.36, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]


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Reviewing the pics again and I see the touch ups. Being such a lighter color, those do stand out. If you are really unhappy with the finish, you could powdercoat. There is a standard powder color that is close-ish to celeste, but I don't have it handy right now. It might work for you if you want a cheap durable finish that comes close to celeste.
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Reviewing the pics again and I see the touch ups. Being such a lighter color, those do stand out. If you are really unhappy with the finish, you could powdercoat. There is a standard powder color that is close-ish to celeste, but I don't have it handy right now. It might work for you if you want a cheap durable finish that comes close to celeste.
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#33
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Edit: I see that the RAL color is a powdercoat specific thing. Thanks again.
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When I had my Celeste formula scanned, this is what they came up with:
Nason Ful-Thane single stage "IS"
Spectramaster GS334
tinting guide per 16 oz.
430-03 H.S.white 137.3
430-07 Ochre 171.5
430-11 Green 195.9
430-02 Carbon black 203.7
435-82 Nason 2.8 voc ss binder 486.8
441-21 Medium ful-base reducer 528.5
As mentioned in my previous post, this is what the scanner matched to my sample. It is not an exact match, as they match to the closest color on file.
Nason Ful-Thane single stage "IS"
Spectramaster GS334
tinting guide per 16 oz.
430-03 H.S.white 137.3
430-07 Ochre 171.5
430-11 Green 195.9
430-02 Carbon black 203.7
435-82 Nason 2.8 voc ss binder 486.8
441-21 Medium ful-base reducer 528.5
As mentioned in my previous post, this is what the scanner matched to my sample. It is not an exact match, as they match to the closest color on file.
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I also dig the crackle. I've got my eye on a black one from this era. It's been a while since I've had a true road bike and my last one was a Bianchi Proto (MAX). Can't find one of those again I bet.
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Crazing is what it is called in ceramics/shrinking and swelling of the base clay. Funny that would happen on steel-you would need extream temperature circumstances for metal. Guess not impossibele, given areas-storage spaces and whatnot. Not often seen tho. I would treat it as patina and seal the best I could. Celest is sooooo preeeeety! 

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#38
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It is the expand and shrinkage of the base material/not the paint.....thus the splitting of the (paint)finish. Ceramic finishes are fired-much like painted frame finishes. Trying to corrorellate why this may be similar. Im thinking cheaper paint myself, as it is NOT the norm. Opines welcome-I like to learn.
Steel as far as I know dosent craze.
Steel as far as I know dosent craze.
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It is the expand and shrinkage of the base material/not the paint.....thus the splitting of the (paint)finish. Ceramic finishes are fired-much like painted frame finishes. Trying to corrorellate why this may be similar. Im thinking cheaper paint myself, as it is NOT the norm. Opines welcome-I like to learn.
Steel as far as I know dosent craze.
Steel as far as I know dosent craze.
A craze is typically considered a surface defect, developing most often in acrylic paints or mediums that when applied, begin to form a skin while the material underneath is still fluid and wet. The very flexible acrylic film can usually stretch quite easily as the edges of the skin begin to dry, requiring the center of the film to continue to stretch as water evaporates and the film shrinks. In some cases, the center areas of the drying film can no longer take the stress of shrinking and a tear in the upper part of the film occurs.
...
At times the crazing phenomena can occur in very thin films. More often than not, this sort of crazed surface is the result of the lack of a coating being able to wet out the layer below. So as the stresses caused by the evaporation of water continue, areas where the cohesive force of the acrylic film is greater than it’s attraction to the substrate or paint layer below, you begin to see these same crevices in the film. In extreme circumstances this crazing can actually leave breaks in the film.
...
At times the crazing phenomena can occur in very thin films. More often than not, this sort of crazed surface is the result of the lack of a coating being able to wet out the layer below. So as the stresses caused by the evaporation of water continue, areas where the cohesive force of the acrylic film is greater than it’s attraction to the substrate or paint layer below, you begin to see these same crevices in the film. In extreme circumstances this crazing can actually leave breaks in the film.
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#40
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The color on that frame is cracking because it's lacquer. If lacquer isn't catalyzed, it air dries. Problem is, it never really completely dries, so it starts to shrink. That's what you're seeing. GM automobiles of the 50s and 60s experienced the same thing (GM used lacquer because it dried fast ad shined like crazy for a year, Ford and MoPar used enamels.)
Matching the color is a drag because both the hue and the chroma are tricky to properly change. Adding black can easily gray the color out, so a blue or a green is probably more in order, but which one? A Green-shade blue, or a blue-shade green? So many variables with this color.
Although I doubt it'd be an exact match, FoMoCo had a color for Lincoln in 1976 that is remarkably close to the 80s Celeste color. The color is Light Jade, code 7A.
Matching the color is a drag because both the hue and the chroma are tricky to properly change. Adding black can easily gray the color out, so a blue or a green is probably more in order, but which one? A Green-shade blue, or a blue-shade green? So many variables with this color.
Although I doubt it'd be an exact match, FoMoCo had a color for Lincoln in 1976 that is remarkably close to the 80s Celeste color. The color is Light Jade, code 7A.
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#41
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Interesting how a refinishing kills the value of a guitar or piece of furniture so much more than a bike ... why is that?
#42
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Add one more to team cracking! It looks amazing, and standing out from all the other celeste Bianchi's out there is probably a good thing, no?
Along those lines, this might be a newbie question, but why do so many people capitalize celeste, and/or use it like it is a model name? I won't even get into most variations of celeste being more blue than green...
Along those lines, this might be a newbie question, but why do so many people capitalize celeste, and/or use it like it is a model name? I won't even get into most variations of celeste being more blue than green...
#43
Junior Member
Paint
a lot of painters can “distress”. You want tarnished brass - no prob. something aluminum to look like rusty metal? fiberglass - to look like rusty metal - no prob.
Cracking? - uncured lacquer bass, enamel top.
Lil reduced white on tops of tubes of Celeste gives the appearance of oxidation.
Nice to know if there’s any color formula. If I mix it, I’ll mix enough for the whole Bike Forum!
Cracking? - uncured lacquer bass, enamel top.
Lil reduced white on tops of tubes of Celeste gives the appearance of oxidation.
Nice to know if there’s any color formula. If I mix it, I’ll mix enough for the whole Bike Forum!
#44
Full Member
I think you can get all of the DIY satisfaction, at a fraction of the cost, of NOT re-painting, but instead doing a full tear-down, clean, spot touch up including wet sand of the touch ups, fixing up scuffs with a polishing compound (Meguiars seems popular here), ordering in new replacement decals from a good source like Velocals or Cyclomondo, and THEN waxing and rebuilding. Just did that with this PX10 (only the small Reynolds and Nervex decals on the fork and beneath the seat needed replacement):



By the way, great choice and great deal you got there!!!



By the way, great choice and great deal you got there!!!
#45
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I kinda like the patina on that. My vote is clean it up, run some new cables and wax it up. I like Renaissance Wax...great stuff.
#46
Junior Member
Paint revival
I think you can get all of the DIY satisfaction, at a fraction of the cost, of NOT re-painting, but instead doing a full tear-down, clean, spot touch up including wet sand of the touch ups, fixing up scuffs with a polishing compound (Meguiars seems popular here), ordering in new replacement decals from a good source like Velocals or Cyclomondo, and THEN waxing and rebuilding. Just did that with this PX10 (only the small Reynolds and Nervex decals on the fork and beneath the seat needed replacement):



By the way, great choice and great deal you got there!!!



By the way, great choice and great deal you got there!!!
Nice job preserving this one!
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