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What to look for in, gulp, a used carbon fork?

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What to look for in, gulp, a used carbon fork?

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Old 07-31-17, 09:00 AM
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What to look for in, gulp, a used carbon fork?

I'm normally all about steel bikes that are older than I am, but right now there's a very good deal on my local CL for a 2007 bike with an aluminum frame and carbon fork. Both materials freak me out a little, but I thought I'd give it a try.

Where, specifically, should I be looking for signs of damage to the carbon fork?
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Old 07-31-17, 09:43 AM
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I JUST realized your user name is not "brainiac-ville"
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Old 07-31-17, 10:02 AM
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Is the steerer tube carbon or aluminum? If carbon I'd be most worried about someone over-tightening the threadless stem at the steerer tube. I'm not sure that any damage would be immediately apparent if stem is removed to check prior to purchase, but any obvious damage would mean new fork time. Check for deep gouges where stem tightens on the fork. The bike and price would determine if replacing the fork is a deal breaker in that case.

Apart from that, any signs of damage/crash in the carbon (or aluminum for that matter) would typically be a deal breaker. Discoloration or signs of delamination in the carbon. If fork tips are carbon, check those for any delamination at the quick-release (that can be dealt with if not too far gone, but you want to know prior to purchase).

Was any work done to the bike after original purchase? I'd be asking if the seller did their own work or outsourced to a shop. If the seller is the mechanic a few questions should give some idea if they did good work. "What brand torque wrench do you use, looking for recommendations as I don't have one yet," etc. Of course, outsourcing to a shop isn't a guarantee, just more info to judge against.

I bought a used 2007 aluminum frame carbon fork bike years ago - lots of fun, still have all of my teeth. What's the bike?

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Old 07-31-17, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Sir_Name
Is the steerer tube carbon or aluminum? If carbon I'd be most worried about someone over-tightening the threadless stem at the steerer tube. I'm not sure that any damage would be immediately apparent if stem is removed to check prior to purchase, but any obvious damage would mean new fork time. Check for deep gouges where stem tightens on the fork. The bike and price would determine if replacing the fork is a deal breaker in that case.

Apart from that, any signs of damage/crash in the carbon (or aluminum for that matter) would typically be a deal breaker. Discoloration or signs of delamination in the carbon. If fork tips are carbon, check those for any delamination at the quick-release (that can be dealt with, but you want to know prior to purchase).

I'd be asking if the seller did their own work or outsourced to a shop. If the seller is the mechanic a few questions should give some idea if they did good work. "What brand torque wrench do you use, looking for recommendations as I don't have one yet," etc. Of course, outsourcing to a shop isn't a guarantee, just more info to judge against.

I bought a used 2007 aluminum frame carbon fork bike years ago - lots of fun, still have all of my teeth. What's the bike?
Good info -- thanks! Here's the bike: https://eastnc.craigslist.org/bik/d/...242506446.html

The steerer is (or should be) aluminum -- anything to look out for there?

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Old 07-31-17, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by brianinc-ville
Good info -- thanks! Here's the bike: https://eastnc.craigslist.org/bik/d/...242506446.html

The steerer is (or should be) aluminum -- anything to look out for there?
Nope, nothing special to look for with the aluminum steerer. I'd just look for any obvious signs of damage to the bike as with any other purchase. Flaking/chipped paint, etc. Looks clean from here! Good luck and enjoy if you grab it. Nice low price, can see why it's tempting. Catalog says 25mm tires - I'd be curious to see if 28s will fit. Mine has 25s that measure 28 and the ride is great, not harsh.

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Old 07-31-17, 11:47 AM
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I've been riding an Aluminum Allez with Easton carbon fork since I got it new in 2002. I'm now about 200 lbs., but have been over 230. Done centuries, and lots of miles on the mean streets of LA County. I've broken spokes, shifters, cables, etc. The fork looks as good as the day I bought it, frame too. I replaced the OEM aluminum fork with carbon to get a smoother ride and get a little weight off. On sale at Nashbar for $99 back in the day. Go for it.
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Old 07-31-17, 12:03 PM
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Aluminum steerer I would just look closely at the crown and lower headset cup for signs of cracks, crash, damage - pretty simple.

Carbon steerer I would slide the stem off and look for a pinch crack at the top of the steerer (not uncommon) and slide the whole fork out to look along the length.
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Old 07-31-17, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by brianinc-ville
Good info -- thanks! Here's the bike: https://eastnc.craigslist.org/bik/d/...242506446.html

The steerer is (or should be) aluminum -- anything to look out for there?
That looks like a steal; if no obvious damage, I'd snap it up. The ad says 'barely ridden' and the pics sure make it look that way.

What is that, a 3x9 drivetrain, probably Sora, Tiagra?

LOL @The Golden Boy, I always thought it was brainiac-ville, too.
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Old 07-31-17, 05:23 PM
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I'll chime in with what everyone is saying, look for obvious damage. Making sure the brifters aren't scratched and the handlebars are straight will also let you know that it hasn't been crashed. If you don't see cracks at the seatpost bolt, welds, or in the carbon etc. then I don't see any reason not to think it's fine. I've got an aluminum frame, carbon fork contraption that was hit by a car. It broke the dropout hanger and rear derailleur and rear wheel. I replaced all of that and another 1000 miles later no problems to report. I think these aluminum/carbon contraptions are more resilient than horror stories would lead us to believe.
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Old 07-31-17, 05:41 PM
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I have both a 54 and a 56cm fork (Kestrel EMS) if you need one.

And I knew it was NC.
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Old 08-01-17, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Lascauxcaveman
What is that, a 3x9 drivetrain, probably Sora, Tiagra?
3x8 Sora, if it's the stock drivetrain.

LOL @The Golden Boy, I always thought it was brainiac-ville, too.
Confusing, I know -- I used to live in C(harlottes)ville, VA, but now I live in G(reen)ville, NC. We didn't believe in capitalization in the I/internet, back in 2006.

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Old 08-01-17, 03:31 PM
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I agree - good deal on a nice bike. Buy it and ride it!
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Old 08-02-17, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by exmechanic89
I agree - good deal on a nice bike. Buy it and ride it!
So, I did buy it. As far as I can tell, there's absolutely nothing wrong with it and the seller was totally honest (or even a bit modest -- the tires are fine and it's shifting/braking just fine; all it needs is a new tube in the rear). The carbon fork looks pristine, as far as I can tell. Drivetrain is Tiagra 3x8.

The seller is moving away from this college town after finishing dental school and didn't want to take it with him. I'd like to take a moment to thank the dental profession, as a whole, for keeping the rest of us in good used bikes for well over a century, now.
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Old 08-02-17, 08:45 AM
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Take the front wheel off and look very carefully at the underside of the fork crown. Use a flashlight if you don't have good lighting. Look for small cracks that run parallel to the wheel. If you are not positive if something is a scrape from something on the wheel, or a crack, see if you can feel a notch by running a fingernail over it.
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