What to look for in, gulp, a used carbon fork?
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What to look for in, gulp, a used carbon fork?
I'm normally all about steel bikes that are older than I am, but right now there's a very good deal on my local CL for a 2007 bike with an aluminum frame and carbon fork. Both materials freak me out a little, but I thought I'd give it a try.
Where, specifically, should I be looking for signs of damage to the carbon fork?
Where, specifically, should I be looking for signs of damage to the carbon fork?
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I JUST realized your user name is not "brainiac-ville"
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Is the steerer tube carbon or aluminum? If carbon I'd be most worried about someone over-tightening the threadless stem at the steerer tube. I'm not sure that any damage would be immediately apparent if stem is removed to check prior to purchase, but any obvious damage would mean new fork time. Check for deep gouges where stem tightens on the fork. The bike and price would determine if replacing the fork is a deal breaker in that case.
Apart from that, any signs of damage/crash in the carbon (or aluminum for that matter) would typically be a deal breaker. Discoloration or signs of delamination in the carbon. If fork tips are carbon, check those for any delamination at the quick-release (that can be dealt with if not too far gone, but you want to know prior to purchase).
Was any work done to the bike after original purchase? I'd be asking if the seller did their own work or outsourced to a shop. If the seller is the mechanic a few questions should give some idea if they did good work. "What brand torque wrench do you use, looking for recommendations as I don't have one yet," etc. Of course, outsourcing to a shop isn't a guarantee, just more info to judge against.
I bought a used 2007 aluminum frame carbon fork bike years ago - lots of fun, still have all of my teeth. What's the bike?
Apart from that, any signs of damage/crash in the carbon (or aluminum for that matter) would typically be a deal breaker. Discoloration or signs of delamination in the carbon. If fork tips are carbon, check those for any delamination at the quick-release (that can be dealt with if not too far gone, but you want to know prior to purchase).
Was any work done to the bike after original purchase? I'd be asking if the seller did their own work or outsourced to a shop. If the seller is the mechanic a few questions should give some idea if they did good work. "What brand torque wrench do you use, looking for recommendations as I don't have one yet," etc. Of course, outsourcing to a shop isn't a guarantee, just more info to judge against.
I bought a used 2007 aluminum frame carbon fork bike years ago - lots of fun, still have all of my teeth. What's the bike?
Last edited by Sir_Name; 07-31-17 at 10:16 AM.
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Is the steerer tube carbon or aluminum? If carbon I'd be most worried about someone over-tightening the threadless stem at the steerer tube. I'm not sure that any damage would be immediately apparent if stem is removed to check prior to purchase, but any obvious damage would mean new fork time. Check for deep gouges where stem tightens on the fork. The bike and price would determine if replacing the fork is a deal breaker in that case.
Apart from that, any signs of damage/crash in the carbon (or aluminum for that matter) would typically be a deal breaker. Discoloration or signs of delamination in the carbon. If fork tips are carbon, check those for any delamination at the quick-release (that can be dealt with, but you want to know prior to purchase).
I'd be asking if the seller did their own work or outsourced to a shop. If the seller is the mechanic a few questions should give some idea if they did good work. "What brand torque wrench do you use, looking for recommendations as I don't have one yet," etc. Of course, outsourcing to a shop isn't a guarantee, just more info to judge against.
I bought a used 2007 aluminum frame carbon fork bike years ago - lots of fun, still have all of my teeth. What's the bike?
Apart from that, any signs of damage/crash in the carbon (or aluminum for that matter) would typically be a deal breaker. Discoloration or signs of delamination in the carbon. If fork tips are carbon, check those for any delamination at the quick-release (that can be dealt with, but you want to know prior to purchase).
I'd be asking if the seller did their own work or outsourced to a shop. If the seller is the mechanic a few questions should give some idea if they did good work. "What brand torque wrench do you use, looking for recommendations as I don't have one yet," etc. Of course, outsourcing to a shop isn't a guarantee, just more info to judge against.
I bought a used 2007 aluminum frame carbon fork bike years ago - lots of fun, still have all of my teeth. What's the bike?
The steerer is (or should be) aluminum -- anything to look out for there?
Last edited by brianinc-ville; 07-31-17 at 10:28 AM.
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Good info -- thanks! Here's the bike: https://eastnc.craigslist.org/bik/d/...242506446.html
The steerer is (or should be) aluminum -- anything to look out for there?
The steerer is (or should be) aluminum -- anything to look out for there?
Last edited by Sir_Name; 07-31-17 at 11:02 AM.
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I've been riding an Aluminum Allez with Easton carbon fork since I got it new in 2002. I'm now about 200 lbs., but have been over 230. Done centuries, and lots of miles on the mean streets of LA County. I've broken spokes, shifters, cables, etc. The fork looks as good as the day I bought it, frame too. I replaced the OEM aluminum fork with carbon to get a smoother ride and get a little weight off. On sale at Nashbar for $99 back in the day. Go for it.
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Aluminum steerer I would just look closely at the crown and lower headset cup for signs of cracks, crash, damage - pretty simple.
Carbon steerer I would slide the stem off and look for a pinch crack at the top of the steerer (not uncommon) and slide the whole fork out to look along the length.
Carbon steerer I would slide the stem off and look for a pinch crack at the top of the steerer (not uncommon) and slide the whole fork out to look along the length.
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Good info -- thanks! Here's the bike: https://eastnc.craigslist.org/bik/d/...242506446.html
The steerer is (or should be) aluminum -- anything to look out for there?
The steerer is (or should be) aluminum -- anything to look out for there?
What is that, a 3x9 drivetrain, probably Sora, Tiagra?
LOL @The Golden Boy, I always thought it was brainiac-ville, too.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 07-31-17 at 04:16 PM.
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I'll chime in with what everyone is saying, look for obvious damage. Making sure the brifters aren't scratched and the handlebars are straight will also let you know that it hasn't been crashed. If you don't see cracks at the seatpost bolt, welds, or in the carbon etc. then I don't see any reason not to think it's fine. I've got an aluminum frame, carbon fork contraption that was hit by a car. It broke the dropout hanger and rear derailleur and rear wheel. I replaced all of that and another 1000 miles later no problems to report. I think these aluminum/carbon contraptions are more resilient than horror stories would lead us to believe.
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3x8 Sora, if it's the stock drivetrain.
Confusing, I know -- I used to live in C(harlottes)ville, VA, but now I live in G(reen)ville, NC. We didn't believe in capitalization in the I/internet, back in 2006.
LOL @The Golden Boy, I always thought it was brainiac-ville, too.
Last edited by brianinc-ville; 08-01-17 at 09:11 AM.
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So, I did buy it. As far as I can tell, there's absolutely nothing wrong with it and the seller was totally honest (or even a bit modest -- the tires are fine and it's shifting/braking just fine; all it needs is a new tube in the rear). The carbon fork looks pristine, as far as I can tell. Drivetrain is Tiagra 3x8.
The seller is moving away from this college town after finishing dental school and didn't want to take it with him. I'd like to take a moment to thank the dental profession, as a whole, for keeping the rest of us in good used bikes for well over a century, now.
The seller is moving away from this college town after finishing dental school and didn't want to take it with him. I'd like to take a moment to thank the dental profession, as a whole, for keeping the rest of us in good used bikes for well over a century, now.
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Take the front wheel off and look very carefully at the underside of the fork crown. Use a flashlight if you don't have good lighting. Look for small cracks that run parallel to the wheel. If you are not positive if something is a scrape from something on the wheel, or a crack, see if you can feel a notch by running a fingernail over it.
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