Need help identifying model of this Cannondale
 

So I just bought a cad3 (caad3?) on eBay and there is no sticker model on the frame. Was wondering if anyone could help me identify it. I asked the seller and he said there was no sticker on the frame. The frame is a 97 as was listed on the eBay add. I checked Vintage Cannondale and I couldn't figure out which one it is.

Did the seller give the serial number? That would confirm the year made.

I can see the SN# format - indicates a '93-'99.

I think it's a '98 R200 in Super Black. But this is just a guess based on very limited info.

SargOn, A frame set only purchase or a warranty replacement won't have a model designation. The color could be from any model. I agree that it's a '97, at least, because of the fork....I had one.

Brad

Here is a link to the Vintage Cannondale site, their serial number reference section will help you identify which year the frame is. Also, they have a complete selection of catalogs you can search through. Cannondale Catalogs | VintageCannondale.com

Welcome to the forum also.

Bill

What is the serial number on one of the chainstays? It's a purchase from the Pros Closet.

There is the serial number I think? Also the page did list it as a 97 I'm just trying to figure out the model. Thanks for the help guys. Also it did come with a carbon fork not sure if that was the original or after market tho.

And yup it is from pros closet oddjob2. It's just killing me that I don't know what the model is. I've been on vintage cannondale trying to match the frame but they all look the same to me.

All of the models that used a CAAD3 frame used the same frame, there is no difference in the frame itself. The fork is identical to what my '97's frame-set purchase had (bought in '97).

The CAAD3 is an excellent frame and is an evolutionary change from the as capable 2.8 series frame.

Brad

Thanks for the info man. I'm waiting for the 6800 ultegra group set I ordered to come in so I can take it to a bike store and get it put together. I didn't know all the caad3 models had the same frame. So the only difference between any of the caad3's were the components?

The components and the front fork. The upper tier bikes had the Slice fork while the rest had the fork you have.

Brad

Alright so from what I can tell from vintage cannondale it's an r800 or lower?

Any desire to put it together yourself? So long as you have the corect BB and front der it's pretty easy, and if you need help there's youtube.

I'm considering it depending on how much a LBS is charging. Problem is im not the most mechanically inclined person in the world so it feels a little overwhelming. Aren't there special tools required to put some of the components on as well?

A few. Shimano BB/crank takes a special wrench ($20), and you'll need cable cutters (see thread in mechanics forum), a set of Allen wrenches. A work stand (clamp the seatpost, not the frame) is kind of essential, but also great to have in general. But you'll have the tools forever. If you take your time and think carefully before you do everything I think that's the most important thing. Most people come to grief not through lack of ability but from being in a hurry and not thinking. And not researching when they aren't sure. It helps to have someone show you how to set up and tune derailleurs, but there are good youtube videos specific to 6800.

I'll look up some YouTube videos for sure. thanks for the info and I do want to be able to fix the bike on my own if ever a problem occurs.

I guess, but really it just isn't a particular model. It's a blank canvas, have fun with it. With the 6800 group it's going to be a stunner.

Brad

Unless you get the bike with its OEM components, or the owner can straight out tell you the model, the paint color is about the only cause you have. And that isn't always 100% assured as some colourways are shared between a couple of bikes. Like the post said, its a blank canvas, yes the great groupset you have planned and then get some nice finishing pieces (stem, bars, seat post, wheels) and make it your own statement. Those are fantastic frames, I have one, now our daughter is riding it, in Atlanta.

Enjoy the build, its not at all difficult to do, as well as the You Tube videos, you should get one of the manuals available, Lennard Zinn (Zen and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance,) Park Tool Co. (Big Blue Book of Bicycle Maintenance,) Bicycling Magazine's maintenance primer, etc. With all of the aides available you'll be picking up plenty of skills that will benefit you in the long run.

Bill

Thanks man, appreciate all the help and advice. I love how the frame looks and am looking forward to building it up. I guess I just wanted some assurance that it was actually a good frame. I will definitely post some pics of the final product.

Thanks again for all the help and advice guys. You've all been very helpful. Been watching YouTube videos all day to try and get some clue to try and attempt building this myself.

I built up an '86 ST600 frame and the only reason I know what the frame was is the Shimano 600 front derailleur and lever that came on it. Cannondale has a long history of using the same frame and then differentiating models with components and forks.

The older steel forked bikes like mine used Tange Mangalloy forks on the "lower end" and Tange Chromo on the higher end.

Thing is, I don't think Cannondale made low end bikes. Those frames are state of the art for there time period. Stiffer and lighter than any of the steel bikes (as far as I know). Some feel they're harsh, but I don't think so, and I have a couple of their late 80's Crit bikes, made before CAD and overbuilt and stiff as they get! But if you ride light in the saddle, use some cushy bar tape, a comfy saddle, and fit some wide-ish tires you can tame the ride if you want too. If a frame is too flexy that's it. Can't make it stiffer.

I've been using an '88 SR500 Crit to commute the 8 miles to work for a few weeks now. It's got a narrow, hard saddle and 20mm tires and it's a BLAST. Instead of an 8 mile commute it's like a series of sprints between lights.

That frame looks awesome! And should still be nice and stiff. I don't think the S curved stays came into use until CAD 5 or so? Definitely worth whatever components you decide to drape over it.

That's definitely great to hear. I got a shimano 6800 ultegra groupset for the frame. The only thing I'm missing is a set of wheels and I'm open to any suggestions for a decent set of wheels and tires. Trying to keep that at around 150-200 dollars

I prefer Fulcrum wheels for contemporary bikes, two sets of Fulcrum Racing7, one 10 speed cassette capable and the other the 7LG for 11 speed cassettes. My CAAD 10 has this on it for the Ultegra 6800 I swapped on to it last January. Not too pricey, very reliable and decent looking, The 7LG came from Ribble, in the UK, usually they come in reasonably close to your budget.

Plenty of others out there, if I was shopping right now, Shimano Ultegra wheels would be on my short list, they will be about $50-$75 more than your budget though. Watch the LBS for take offs or see about some hand-built wheels that meet your requirements to a Tee. I just built two sets of vintage wheels, its not as difficult as some would have you believe. I am seriously contemplating getting a pair of 36h or 32h Ultegra hubs and the spokes/rims so I can build up the next set for the C'dale myself.

Bill

You paid a hefty price for the frame. Buying parts individually, new or used, will put you well over fmv of the completed bike, especially if you pay an LBS $200 to assemble it for you.

I would be on the lookout here or locally for a Shimano 105 or Shimano 600 tricolor group, preferably with wheels.

If you post your location a nearby member may help teach and source parts for you.

I'd look for an old Ross on CL, and use the parts. They usually come nicely equipped and go for cheap. Donate the frame to your local Co-op.

Wheel sets are a bit personal due to individual tastes and what they're to be used for, like racing, distance riding, training, or recreational riding. For racing and level A group club rides, the best you can afford is appropriate with an eye towards light weight, tubulars are popular for this. Distance riding and training wheels tend to be a bit heavier and more robust, often clincher rims. Recreational use encompasses most any of the above.

Two hundred bucks will pay for some good distance and training wheels and allow you some saddle time untill you have a chance to upgrade, if desired. For example, I have a set of 32H Mavic CXP22 rims laced to A2300 Shimano hubs slated for a budget build that I've used on my '99 R1000T. Inexpensive from Velomine with plenty left over for tires, tubes, and rim tape and within what you're targeting. There are plenty of wheel sets from various places that are similar.

Have fun with the build.

Brad