Cleaning Previously Taped Handlebars
 

I used to try to clean all of the old adhesive tape from bars before I re-taped, but I haven't done that in a while. I just clean the parts that show and let the new tape hide the rest. What do you do?

+1 As long as the part that shows is clean, I don't see the point.

I also don't worry about removing all the glue residue from tubular rims.

I don't bother with removing old tape residue either

Out of sight, out of mind :)

Goo gone.

https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/..._AS03?$zmmain$

Spray it on, let it sit, wipe it off. Then rinse the crap out of it.

About the only time I remove old glue residue is when the previous owner has taped up to stem, as I like to have about 5-7cm exposed on either side. Sometimes, I'll clean further, if the the correct OEM configuration is half tape or grips.

Often, if the previous tape is cloth, I'll just tape over it, as this adds some additional cushioning and builds up the diameter slightly,adding to comfort.

I hate the way cork tape rips and leaves small bits of actual cork, as opposed to just glue residue. These I do clean off. It's a Princess and the Pea situation for me.

I've done it all. Clean it spotless then re-tape, leave the residue and re-tape or tape over the existing tape. I was happy with all the outcomes.

If what do I do for residue removal is the question, then WD40 is the first thing I grab. If not that, then gasoline (horrors), alcohol and laquer thinner (last resort). WD40 though almost always gets anything off despite it's marketed as a light lubricant.

Acetone

If it's really that gummed up I normally clean with goo gone. I think any citrus cleaner works the same way.

WD-40 does work surprisingly well as a cleaner... It's the first thing I grab when cleaning really really gummed up chainrings.

lacquer thinner ...

[QUOTE=T-Mar;19810302]Often, if the previous tape is cloth, I'll just tape over it, as this adds some additional cushioning and builds up the diameter slightly,adding to comfort. /QUOTE]

I also try to leave as much of the old cloth tape on as possible. A couple of years ago I bought a Trek 420 that had really thick synthetic cork tape. When I unwound it, the PO had placed several split "Swim Shad" under the wrap as an extra cushion. You need to be a salt water fisherman to understand. BTW: the tails were removed.

I never the any point to cleaning up a bar before re-taping. I mean, you're just going to cover it up again, right?

I sort of feel the same way about NOS bars. As long as nothing is too scratched there isn't much value in having fresh aluminum beneath tape.

I'm "anal" about it, so I clean off all residue before re-taping. I use a hair dryer to soften the old residue and scrape it with a plastic scraper. Then WD-40 gets rid of the rest.

" Princess and the pea" analogy, I get that one. No lumps under the picnic blanket...

I don't leave old cloth tape on and wrap over it. Too much sweat is on it and will cause the bar to corrode. We use to do that many years ago and I bet I never left any good bars around for future C & V youngin'

We once got a bike in at the coop that looked like it had the same tape for many years on it's aero bars. Unwrapping the bars (to replace them) resulted in a huge amount of white "powder" coming off of the bar. The ONLY thing I can think of that it'd be was sweat that has soaked into the tape and crystallized. I wasn't going to taste it to figure it out. It was... gross. The bars are still gross, the salt (I'm assuming) caused a ton of corrosion on the aluminum. The bars have been sitting by the sink for months because I refuse to do anything with them.

Anal. i still clean it. 000 scrubbing pad or whatever its called and some WD-40 to remove the gummy residue. Easy.

[QUOTE=2cam16;19810853]Anal. i still clean it. 000 scrubbing pad or whatever its called and some WD-40 to remove the gummy residue. Easy.[/QUOTE

I was told long ago that everything must be removed and cleaned so that is what I have always done. I've tried quite a few techniques with nothing working very well. This has opened my eyes a little both to not having to go full anal to some better ideas for the ones I will try cleaning in the future.

Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? ( Previously ME )

Goo gone, pro which seems to be overpriced acetone. If I'm using thicker tape some residues ok...if I'm using lizard skins I clean the bars well.

Surprisingly, it also does a great job on chrome.

Ah, patina :)

DD

I wonder what Eddy's mechanic did.

I don't bother...except for when there has been too much to slide the levers on easily. I'll take a bit of the stickiness off for those sections.

I figure the residue helps keep the new tape in place on HB tapes with just the narrow adhesive strip. Removing it just seems like a lot of work (and some environmental waste) that hurts the end result if it does anything.

Ben

This works really well, put it on a rag and start wiping. Do it in a ventalated area, BUT be very careful with it, acetone can mess up paint or clear coats or decals. So please pay attention when using it.