Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Decals on top of powdercoating

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Decals on top of powdercoating

Old 08-29-17, 05:19 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,337
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2431 Post(s)
Liked 634 Times in 391 Posts
Decals on top of powdercoating

I have my eye on a particular frameset for sale. If I get it I would like to have it refinished by a local powdercoater who has experience with bikes.

If I were to order new frame decals from Velocals, which ones would I need? The UV laminate? How do they look without clearcoating? Are they real thin? I want a factory look, not something that looks cheap and slapped on if you understand what I'm trying to say.
Lazyass is offline  
Old 08-29-17, 07:07 PM
  #2  
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 113
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 947 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have used Velocals. Their thinnest vinyl offerings I used had to be clear coated, which I did, are noticeably thicker than waterslide decals. They look nice but I would be concerned with snagging the edges of vinyl decals on clothing or cleaning rags. The vinyls that Velocals sells for no clear coating required are even thicker by their description. I have not used these but I already thought the unprotected vinyls were too thick. I used the Velocals because they were the only place offering the decals I needed. I also had problems with color matching and decal size, they were WAY too big. They remade some and I used decals from another source to finish the bike.
Schwinn me is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 06:15 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 136
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I did exactly what you are proposing on my trek (the original finish had the decals on-top of the clear) and the UV laminate I received from Velocals aren't super thick, but they are of very good quality. They look great on the bike and match the originals perfectly. I am super pleased with the result. The only thing I will mention is to make sure that the area is spotless before applying the decals. Clean it well with an alcohol solution to ensure proper adhesion. Velocals sends instructions with the decals which is handy.
jlax2485 is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 06:31 AM
  #4  
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 39

Bikes: 77 Kessels Merckx, Early 70s Cinelli SC, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra times 2, Eddy Merckx MX Leader times 2, 1968 Legnano

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Cyclomondo in Australia has very nice decals. I've ordered from both Velocals and Cyclomondo for my Merckx, and ended up using the cyclomondo decals.
clydesdale65 is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 06:47 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,337
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2431 Post(s)
Liked 634 Times in 391 Posts
Would waterslide decals be thinner than the UV's?
Lazyass is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 06:58 AM
  #6  
Mr. Anachronism
 
Hudson308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Somewhere west of Tobie's
Posts: 2,089

Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff

Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 524 Post(s)
Liked 256 Times in 164 Posts
Originally Posted by Lazyass
Would waterslide decals be thinner than the UV's?
Waterslide decals don't adhere well to powdercoat. I've got a coated frame that I'll try wet sanding before putting my next set on, as I already have the decals. My guess is that the problem is the surface is too smooth for proper adhesion.
__________________
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
Hudson308 is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 07:20 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
himespau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,471
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4060 Post(s)
Liked 2,801 Times in 1,697 Posts
Originally Posted by Hudson308
Waterslide decals don't adhere well to powdercoat. I've got a coated frame that I'll try wet sanding before putting my next set on, as I already have the decals. My guess is that the problem is the surface is too smooth for proper adhesion.
Interesting. Good to know. I've been looking at decals for a powdercoated frame I have and had been leaning toward waterslides.
himespau is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 07:39 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,337
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2431 Post(s)
Liked 634 Times in 391 Posts
Originally Posted by Hudson308
Waterslide decals don't adhere well to powdercoat. I've got a coated frame that I'll try wet sanding before putting my next set on, as I already have the decals. My guess is that the problem is the surface is too smooth for proper adhesion.
Let us know how it comes out if you try it.
Lazyass is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 07:50 AM
  #9  
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 113
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 947 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Hudson308
Waterslide decals don't adhere well to powdercoat. I've got a coated frame that I'll try wet sanding before putting my next set on, as I already have the decals. My guess is that the problem is the surface is too smooth for proper adhesion.
The smoother, i.e. the flatter, no orange peel the surface the better for waterslide. Glass is ideal for waterslide. The biggest problem installing waterslides is quality and surface conditions.

I have some good info on another website about painting and bike decals.


https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/ho...-finish.87859/
Schwinn me is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 08:56 AM
  #10  
Mr. Anachronism
 
Hudson308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Somewhere west of Tobie's
Posts: 2,089

Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff

Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 524 Post(s)
Liked 256 Times in 164 Posts
Originally Posted by Schwinn me
The smoother, i.e. the flatter, no orange peel the surface the better for waterslide. Glass is ideal for waterslide. The biggest problem installing waterslides is quality and surface conditions.

I have some good info on another website about painting and bike decals.


https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/ho...-finish.87859/
I remember that thread... Interesting that glass is ideal. This is the frame I had problems with... sorry for the crappy picture. I got the decals placed perfectly, but bubbles and voids under the decals developed over a couple of months.
These were new decals purchased from bicyclebones on eBay.

1103132005.jpg
__________________
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
Hudson308 is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 01:36 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,712

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 513 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3172 Post(s)
Liked 3,673 Times in 1,381 Posts
I've used the thicker Velocals decals over powdercoat and I can verify that they are indeed vulnerable to getting the edges caught. The decal I've particularly had issues with is the pinstripe/arrow on the top tube of my Motobecane Grand Record. This decal isn't very wide, so I guess it's particularly susceptible to this sort of problem, but the end of the decal nearest the seat tube is getting munged on both sides where I clamp it into the workstand. It may also be getting rubbed by my thighs once in a while as I'm riding.

I'm planning to replace the decal at some point. I'll probably use the same one, but I might try putting some clear nail polish around the edges to smooth it out a bit.
__________________
My Bikes
Andy_K is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 05:27 PM
  #12  
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 113
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 947 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Hudson308
I remember that thread... Interesting that glass is ideal. This is the frame I had problems with... sorry for the crappy picture. I got the decals placed perfectly, but bubbles and voids under the decals developed over a couple of months.
These were new decals purchased from bicyclebones on eBay.

Attachment 578489
Unfortunately quality is hit and miss with BB's decals, Memory Lane as well. I usually buy two sets of decals to get frames done. That Paramount is the last bike I'm going to do without clear coating over decals, it's so much better with a clear coat. The Raleigh Pro is Cyclomondo vinyls with a clear coat, very pleased with the accuracy of his decals. Vinyls are a piece of cake compared to waterslide. I use the spray water/soap mix for application and haven't had to redo one yet.
Schwinn me is offline  
Old 08-30-17, 10:11 PM
  #13  
Friendship is Magic
 
3alarmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,407

Bikes: old ones

Mentioned: 303 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25573 Post(s)
Liked 9,518 Times in 6,622 Posts
Originally Posted by Lazyass
I have my eye on a particular frameset for sale. If I get it I would like to have it refinished by a local powdercoater who has experience with bikes.

If I were to order new frame decals from Velocals, which ones would I need? The UV laminate? How do they look without clearcoating? Are they real thin? I want a factory look, not something that looks cheap and slapped on if you understand what I'm trying to say.
..the UV laminate decals from Velocals are on the thickest vinyl stock I've run into, so even if you figured out a way to clear coat over them, they will still look slapped on.

If you check his site, he recently started offering something in a "thin vinyl" which might work for you, and he's also expanding his waterslide offerings.

Some bikes, which originally came with decals that were stickers or foil labels that were "slapped on" look OK that way. The best success I've had in that regard is powdercoating a Gitane and finishing with foil labels from Cyclo Mundo, and an older Falcon where the labels were more like complete bands that wrap the entire tube like this:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
005.jpg (101.3 KB, 139 views)
3alarmer is offline  
Old 08-31-17, 06:52 AM
  #14  
Mr. Anachronism
 
Hudson308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Somewhere west of Tobie's
Posts: 2,089

Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff

Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 524 Post(s)
Liked 256 Times in 164 Posts
Originally Posted by Schwinn me
Unfortunately quality is hit and miss with BB's decals, Memory Lane as well. I usually buy two sets of decals to get frames done. That Paramount is the last bike I'm going to do without clear coating over decals, it's so much better with a clear coat. The Raleigh Pro is Cyclomondo vinyls with a clear coat, very pleased with the accuracy of his decals. Vinyls are a piece of cake compared to waterslide. I use the spray water/soap mix for application and haven't had to redo one yet.
Yes, I've also had great luck with Cyclomondo's vinyl decals over powdercoat using the spray water/soap method.
0105141750.jpg

P1010990.jpg
__________________
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
Hudson308 is offline  
Old 08-31-17, 08:11 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
himespau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,471
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4060 Post(s)
Liked 2,801 Times in 1,697 Posts
Originally Posted by Hudson308
Yes, I've also had great luck with Cyclomondo's vinyl decals over powdercoat using the spray water/soap method.
Attachment 578605
At first I didn't notice where the BB/dropouts were and was about to tell you that you'd put your decal on upside down. THEN, I realized I wasn't looking at the top tube.
himespau is offline  
Old 08-31-17, 08:36 AM
  #16  
Mr. Anachronism
 
Hudson308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Somewhere west of Tobie's
Posts: 2,089

Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff

Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 524 Post(s)
Liked 256 Times in 164 Posts
Originally Posted by himespau
At first I didn't notice where the BB/dropouts were and was about to tell you that you'd put your decal on upside down. THEN, I realized I wasn't looking at the top tube.
Remember, you have to put them on upside down. They're from Australia.
__________________
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
Hudson308 is offline  
Old 08-31-17, 09:20 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,337
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2431 Post(s)
Liked 634 Times in 391 Posts
Cyclomondo doesn't have the decals I need. I'm thinking powdercoating is a no go.
Lazyass is offline  
Old 08-31-17, 09:34 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
himespau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,471
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4060 Post(s)
Liked 2,801 Times in 1,697 Posts
Originally Posted by Hudson308
Remember, you have to put them on upside down. They're from Australia.
That's great.
himespau is offline  
Old 08-31-17, 09:57 AM
  #19  
Friendship is Magic
 
3alarmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,407

Bikes: old ones

Mentioned: 303 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25573 Post(s)
Liked 9,518 Times in 6,622 Posts
Originally Posted by Lazyass
Cyclomondo doesn't have the decals I need. I'm thinking powdercoating is a no go.
...one source with a quality product that does not get mentioned here often is H Lloyd in the UK. But only if the thing you're working on is British.
3alarmer is offline  
Old 09-01-17, 09:29 PM
  #20  
Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
So I've just finished applying waterslide decals from bicyclebones on my powdercoated frame. They're big ones too (Schwinn world varsity). So far so good in terms of adhesion and no bubbling. Little bit disappointed in the quality of them though (globes are too transparent and edges aren't very accurate in terms of different colours overprinting. Also very fragile!)

Anyway, I'm now contemplating clear coating them for longer term protection. I have vivid memories when I was a boy of how the waterslide decals on my plastic kit plane models would become brittle and flake off over time!!
The note in the delivery envelope says BB doesn't recommend it, but the manufacturer says you can. I'm leaning towards doing it, but I'm unsure of what type of clear coat to use. Any advice? I'd heard acrylic might be best due to the 'flexibility' of a powder coating requiring a more flexible clear coat to preven cracking
tomdickharry is offline  
Old 09-03-17, 04:37 PM
  #21  
Banned.
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,297
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,407 Times in 908 Posts
1mil

I went 1 mil vinyl from Velocals. No issues.
RobbieTunes is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Seijun
Pacific Northwest
4
04-09-18 06:05 PM
mrtidy
Classic & Vintage
5
09-15-11 02:29 PM
elemental
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
6
06-25-11 10:37 PM
BlueDevil63
Classic & Vintage
18
01-17-11 11:40 AM
look171
Classic & Vintage
4
01-04-11 08:40 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.