Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Liberia

Old 09-07-17, 07:02 PM
  #26  
jpaschall
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jpaschall's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 926

Bikes: 1982 Trek 613, 1988 Panasonic MC 2500, 1981 Schwinn Super Sport, 1975 Raleigh Super Course MKII, 1985 Miyata 210

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 178 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
Great looking parts and nice parts stash. I'd give serious thought to running suntour derailleurs as well.
I have Suntour on almost every bike I own, so obviously I'm not opposed to this. I have a 1st gen Cyclone pair waiting in the wings for a bike. Not sure if this is the right one though. I also have a VGT-Luxe RD that likely would be a good fit.

I have a Huret Duopar (non-titanium) but I don't think it would quite match with this frame either (and it needs a new spring)

Last edited by jpaschall; 09-07-17 at 07:06 PM.
jpaschall is offline  
Old 09-08-17, 06:48 AM
  #27  
thumpism 
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 4,607

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Bridgestone RB-T, Trek 510 city build, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 L23 and L19, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1227 Post(s)
Liked 23 Times in 15 Posts
Originally Posted by 3speedslow View Post
One reason those bars aren't drooping, made with good steel.
Probable reason the bars are now steel; the original French alloy bars drooped dangerously and were replaced.
thumpism is offline  
Old 09-08-17, 08:27 AM
  #28  
ollo_ollo
Senior Member
 
ollo_ollo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Near Sublimity Orygun
Posts: 4,780

Bikes: Still have a few left!

Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 305 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
If you want a French, alloy, bar, still see good Pivo and Belleri bars from time to time. Don
ollo_ollo is offline  
Old 09-08-17, 08:45 AM
  #29  
jpaschall
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jpaschall's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 926

Bikes: 1982 Trek 613, 1988 Panasonic MC 2500, 1981 Schwinn Super Sport, 1975 Raleigh Super Course MKII, 1985 Miyata 210

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 178 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ollo_ollo View Post
If you want a French, alloy, bar, still see good Pivo and Belleri bars from time to time. Don
The stem is Belleri, correct? I have been looking on eBay for some, nothing quite grabbing me yet. What clamp size for FD's should I be searching for? I need to get a digital caliper. I should be able to spring his fork with a 100mm hub, no?
jpaschall is offline  
Old 09-08-17, 09:51 AM
  #30  
Salamandrine 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,890

Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1717 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 36 Times in 24 Posts
RE clamp size: I've never had a problem using a regular 28.6mm FD on any French bike. It's close enough. There's probably an exception to this somewhere but I've never run into it.

More important question is: what derailleurs to put on it? Huret Allvit? That would be a statement of sorts.

100mm front hub should be fine. Did you measure it at 96? Best to check dropout alignment if you can.
Salamandrine is offline  
Old 09-08-17, 10:31 AM
  #31  
jpaschall
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jpaschall's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 926

Bikes: 1982 Trek 613, 1988 Panasonic MC 2500, 1981 Schwinn Super Sport, 1975 Raleigh Super Course MKII, 1985 Miyata 210

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 178 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Salamandrine View Post
RE clamp size: I've never had a problem using a regular 28.6mm FD on any French bike. It's close enough. There's probably an exception to this somewhere but I've never run into it.

More important question is: what derailleurs to put on it? Huret Allvit? That would be a statement of sorts.

100mm front hub should be fine. Did you measure it at 96? Best to check dropout alignment if you can.
Yeah it's 96mm measured. I am planning on acquiring some alignment and bending tools as I am doing this often enough to warrant it now.

I'm considering Huret Challenger front and rear, but I'm not married to anything right now.
jpaschall is offline  
Old 09-08-17, 10:42 AM
  #32  
T-Mar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,835
Mentioned: 431 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2478 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 61 Times in 57 Posts
Originally Posted by jpaschall View Post
...What clamp size for FD's should I be searching for? I need to get a digital caliper... I should be able to spring his fork with a 100mm hub, no?
While a caliper is the preferred tool (and I suggest you obtain one), it is not necessary, especially for this coarse of a measurement. Cut a strip of paper, 1cm x10cm. Wrap it tightly around a clean section of the seat tube and mark where it overlaps with a sharp pencil. Remove the paper strip and measure from the end to the mark. This is the circumference of the seat tube. For a metric (28mm) seat tube, the circumference is 87.9mm. For an imperial (1-1/8"or 28.6mm) seat tube, it is 89.8mm.

As noted, most front derailleurs for imperial seat tubes have sufficient clamp range and ductility to accommodate a metric seat tube. However it can stress and crack some of the stiffer clamps. The preferred solution is to use shim stock. I go to the local industrial supply store, where I can buy single, 6" feeler gauges in the proper thickness (0.3mm in this case), and cut them to length.

Spreading a front fork by 4mm, without cold setting, is less problematic than doing the same to the rear triangle because both bearings are placed close to the dropouts. However, the preferred solution is to cold set the fork blades and realign the dropouts. Spreading without cold setting can cause misalignment, if one blade is stiffer from the brazing or cold working process.
T-Mar is offline  
Old 09-08-17, 11:55 AM
  #33  
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: West Village, New York City
Posts: 37,089

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1973 Raleigh Twenty, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 420 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5384 Post(s)
Liked 91 Times in 70 Posts
Huret derailleurs are good.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 09-08-17, 12:55 PM
  #34  
juvela
Senior Member
 
juvela's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 8,118
Mentioned: 213 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1621 Post(s)
Liked 31 Times in 28 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism View Post
Probable reason the bars are now steel; the original French alloy bars drooped dangerously and were replaced.
-----

Whoever did the replacement got the pinchbolt nut on backwards.

-----
juvela is offline  
Old 11-23-17, 09:37 PM
  #35  
jpaschall
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jpaschall's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 926

Bikes: 1982 Trek 613, 1988 Panasonic MC 2500, 1981 Schwinn Super Sport, 1975 Raleigh Super Course MKII, 1985 Miyata 210

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 178 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Few things on this bike:

(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.

(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
jpaschall is offline  
Old 11-23-17, 10:32 PM
  #36  
big chainring 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wilmette, IL
Posts: 6,466
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 394 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times in 14 Posts
Originally Posted by jpaschall View Post
Few things on this bike:

(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.

(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
The spindle looks very pitted. I would replace it.
big chainring is offline  
Old 11-24-17, 02:24 PM
  #37  
juvela
Senior Member
 
juvela's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 8,118
Mentioned: 213 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1621 Post(s)
Liked 31 Times in 28 Posts
Originally Posted by jpaschall View Post
Few things on this bike:

(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.

(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr

-----

1) would expect frame to be completely metric/BNA. too early to date from time when France began going partially ISO.

2) spindle not only pitted but also spalled. black speckling/mottling on races due to being stored wet. there is a repair if you wish to pursue it and know the right person. can be "hard chromed" and then reground.

-----

Last edited by juvela; 11-25-17 at 04:49 PM. Reason: addition
juvela is offline  
Old 11-24-17, 05:07 PM
  #38  
clubman
Youngman Grand
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 5,486

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 82 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 965 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times in 16 Posts
Cool bike. I've got a Challenger gears/shifter set in my stash if you want to go that route. I'd throw in a 96mm alloy Atom front hub with wingnuts if you want to build that first wheel.

PM if you wish.-
clubman is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Maguvemi
Bicycle Mechanics
4
05-28-11 04:27 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.