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Old 09-07-17, 07:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Great looking parts and nice parts stash. I'd give serious thought to running suntour derailleurs as well.
I have Suntour on almost every bike I own, so obviously I'm not opposed to this. I have a 1st gen Cyclone pair waiting in the wings for a bike. Not sure if this is the right one though. I also have a VGT-Luxe RD that likely would be a good fit.

I have a Huret Duopar (non-titanium) but I don't think it would quite match with this frame either (and it needs a new spring)

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Old 09-08-17, 06:48 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
One reason those bars aren't drooping, made with good steel.
Probable reason the bars are now steel; the original French alloy bars drooped dangerously and were replaced.
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Old 09-08-17, 08:27 AM
  #28  
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If you want a French, alloy, bar, still see good Pivo and Belleri bars from time to time. Don
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Old 09-08-17, 08:45 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ollo_ollo
If you want a French, alloy, bar, still see good Pivo and Belleri bars from time to time. Don
The stem is Belleri, correct? I have been looking on eBay for some, nothing quite grabbing me yet. What clamp size for FD's should I be searching for? I need to get a digital caliper. I should be able to spring his fork with a 100mm hub, no?
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Old 09-08-17, 09:51 AM
  #30  
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RE clamp size: I've never had a problem using a regular 28.6mm FD on any French bike. It's close enough. There's probably an exception to this somewhere but I've never run into it.

More important question is: what derailleurs to put on it? Huret Allvit? That would be a statement of sorts.

100mm front hub should be fine. Did you measure it at 96? Best to check dropout alignment if you can.
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Old 09-08-17, 10:31 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine
RE clamp size: I've never had a problem using a regular 28.6mm FD on any French bike. It's close enough. There's probably an exception to this somewhere but I've never run into it.

More important question is: what derailleurs to put on it? Huret Allvit? That would be a statement of sorts.

100mm front hub should be fine. Did you measure it at 96? Best to check dropout alignment if you can.
Yeah it's 96mm measured. I am planning on acquiring some alignment and bending tools as I am doing this often enough to warrant it now.

I'm considering Huret Challenger front and rear, but I'm not married to anything right now.
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Old 09-08-17, 10:42 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jpaschall
...What clamp size for FD's should I be searching for? I need to get a digital caliper... I should be able to spring his fork with a 100mm hub, no?
While a caliper is the preferred tool (and I suggest you obtain one), it is not necessary, especially for this coarse of a measurement. Cut a strip of paper, 1cm x10cm. Wrap it tightly around a clean section of the seat tube and mark where it overlaps with a sharp pencil. Remove the paper strip and measure from the end to the mark. This is the circumference of the seat tube. For a metric (28mm) seat tube, the circumference is 87.9mm. For an imperial (1-1/8"or 28.6mm) seat tube, it is 89.8mm.

As noted, most front derailleurs for imperial seat tubes have sufficient clamp range and ductility to accommodate a metric seat tube. However it can stress and crack some of the stiffer clamps. The preferred solution is to use shim stock. I go to the local industrial supply store, where I can buy single, 6" feeler gauges in the proper thickness (0.3mm in this case), and cut them to length.

Spreading a front fork by 4mm, without cold setting, is less problematic than doing the same to the rear triangle because both bearings are placed close to the dropouts. However, the preferred solution is to cold set the fork blades and realign the dropouts. Spreading without cold setting can cause misalignment, if one blade is stiffer from the brazing or cold working process.
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Old 09-08-17, 11:55 AM
  #33  
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Huret derailleurs are good.
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Old 09-08-17, 12:55 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by thumpism
Probable reason the bars are now steel; the original French alloy bars drooped dangerously and were replaced.
-----

Whoever did the replacement got the pinchbolt nut on backwards.

-----
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Old 11-23-17, 09:37 PM
  #35  
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Few things on this bike:

(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.

(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
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Old 11-23-17, 10:32 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jpaschall
Few things on this bike:

(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.

(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
The spindle looks very pitted. I would replace it.
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Old 11-24-17, 02:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jpaschall
Few things on this bike:

(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.

(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr


T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr

-----

1) would expect frame to be completely metric/BNA. too early to date from time when France began going partially ISO.

2) spindle not only pitted but also spalled. black speckling/mottling on races due to being stored wet. there is a repair if you wish to pursue it and know the right person. can be "hard chromed" and then reground.

-----

Last edited by juvela; 11-25-17 at 04:49 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 11-24-17, 05:07 PM
  #38  
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Cool bike. I've got a Challenger gears/shifter set in my stash if you want to go that route. I'd throw in a 96mm alloy Atom front hub with wingnuts if you want to build that first wheel.

PM if you wish.-
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