Liberia
#26
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I have a Huret Duopar (non-titanium) but I don't think it would quite match with this frame either (and it needs a new spring)
Last edited by jpaschall; 09-07-17 at 07:06 PM.
#27
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#28
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If you want a French, alloy, bar, still see good Pivo and Belleri bars from time to time. Don
#29
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The stem is Belleri, correct? I have been looking on eBay for some, nothing quite grabbing me yet. What clamp size for FD's should I be searching for? I need to get a digital caliper. I should be able to spring his fork with a 100mm hub, no?
#30
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RE clamp size: I've never had a problem using a regular 28.6mm FD on any French bike. It's close enough. There's probably an exception to this somewhere but I've never run into it.
More important question is: what derailleurs to put on it? Huret Allvit? That would be a statement of sorts.
100mm front hub should be fine. Did you measure it at 96? Best to check dropout alignment if you can.
More important question is: what derailleurs to put on it? Huret Allvit? That would be a statement of sorts.
100mm front hub should be fine. Did you measure it at 96? Best to check dropout alignment if you can.
#31
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RE clamp size: I've never had a problem using a regular 28.6mm FD on any French bike. It's close enough. There's probably an exception to this somewhere but I've never run into it.
More important question is: what derailleurs to put on it? Huret Allvit? That would be a statement of sorts.
100mm front hub should be fine. Did you measure it at 96? Best to check dropout alignment if you can.
More important question is: what derailleurs to put on it? Huret Allvit? That would be a statement of sorts.
100mm front hub should be fine. Did you measure it at 96? Best to check dropout alignment if you can.
I'm considering Huret Challenger front and rear, but I'm not married to anything right now.
#32
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As noted, most front derailleurs for imperial seat tubes have sufficient clamp range and ductility to accommodate a metric seat tube. However it can stress and crack some of the stiffer clamps. The preferred solution is to use shim stock. I go to the local industrial supply store, where I can buy single, 6" feeler gauges in the proper thickness (0.3mm in this case), and cut them to length.
Spreading a front fork by 4mm, without cold setting, is less problematic than doing the same to the rear triangle because both bearings are placed close to the dropouts. However, the preferred solution is to cold set the fork blades and realign the dropouts. Spreading without cold setting can cause misalignment, if one blade is stiffer from the brazing or cold working process.
#33
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Huret derailleurs are good.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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#35
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Few things on this bike:
(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.
(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.
(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
#36
Senior Member
Few things on this bike:
(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.
(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.
(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
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Few things on this bike:
(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.
(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
(1) How likely is this bottom bracket to be French threaded? I'd like to use the T.A. crank on my new Raleigh project, and after reading about 10 threads on JIS vs ISO and proper spindle length for new cartridge BB's, I'd just as soon avoid all that mess and use the original bottom bracket.
(2) With that in mind, if it does turn out to be English threaded, how useable does the bottom bracket look in your estimation. It doesn't feel overly rough, looks mostly like some discoloration. Pack it, ride it, repack it?
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
T.A. BB by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr
-----
1) would expect frame to be completely metric/BNA. too early to date from time when France began going partially ISO.
2) spindle not only pitted but also spalled. black speckling/mottling on races due to being stored wet. there is a repair if you wish to pursue it and know the right person. can be "hard chromed" and then reground.
-----
Last edited by juvela; 11-25-17 at 04:49 PM. Reason: addition
#38
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Cool bike. I've got a Challenger gears/shifter set in my stash if you want to go that route. I'd throw in a 96mm alloy Atom front hub with wingnuts if you want to build that first wheel.
PM if you wish.-
PM if you wish.-
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