Bridgestone MB 1 Headset Replacement?
 

The bike came with a Ritchey Logic headset that needed to be overhauled. The ball bearings were loose in the cages so I put new bearings in without the cages. Put a proper spacer in so it didnt bottom out. A month later it has become loose again. Do I readjust it again or just buy a new one? If so what would work? I was looking at this:

Ritchey Logic 1" Threaded Satin Headset 1 Inch ISO | eBay

thanks guys!

Check that the threads aren't damaged on either the steer tube or the threaded cup and locknut. If the headset threaded parts are damaged, it's easy to replace the headset. If the steer tube threads are damaged, that's more of a problem. Several wraps of plumber's tape might help if the damage is slight, otherwise you're looking at filling the damaged threads with brass and cutting new threads into the brass, or replacing the fork.

Make sure the lower dust seal is sitting flush around the lower race on the fork and that it's not pinched between the bearings/race and that it's not damaged. Otherwise it throws off the whole alignment of everything, causes some binding in the bearings that makes the headset slowly unscrew. You might even have to completely remove it if you aren't using the cages. Happened to me once and took forever to figure out what the problem was.

It's not uncommon for threaded headsets to come out of adjustment after a period of riding, especially on MTBs. One of the drivers of threadless headsets. Just readjust it and check it every so often. :thumb:

thanks for all the feedback, I guess its normal but this is the 3rd damn time. loose headset has to be up there for one of the most annoying little things to deal with while riding.

It's not normal for the jam nuts to loosen.

The Ritchey Logic headsets of that era were rubbish. I recall seeing several of them fail on Bridgestone MB-series bikes, through no fault of the owner. In one case (at Allegany State Park on a major downhill section) the rider almost went over the bars. Turned out the lower bearing race had cracked. The bike had to go back to Ray's warranty.

Better choices: (designated for road, but will work for an MB-1)

Tange Levin
Dura Ace 7402 (cartridge)
Shimano 600 tricolor (cartridge)
Campagnolo Record; Chorus
Stronglight A9
Chris King

Are you using the MB-1 offroad? Common during the time that was made were locknuts with setscrew to really lock them. And shorty 32mm wrenches that fit in a jersey pocket for frequent readjustment of the headset. Most who used early MTBs for the intended purpose changed out the OEM headset quickly.

I can't understand why you needed to add a spacer.