jpaschall

There is a 1982 Trek 515 for sale near me with some considerable upgrades including a TA triple and a Rigida/Campy wheelset. I haven't seen pictures yet, but the seller comments "excellent" condition; price seems right if condition is as he claims.

I currently have a 1982 Trek 613, bone stock that I ride somewhat regularly and enjoy quite a bit. The differences according to the Trek catalogue include the 515 having Ishiwata 021 throughout, versus the 613 having 531 main tubes. 515 has Cyclone II derailleurs vs 613 with Blue Line. Geometries only slightly different.

My garage is pretty full right now, how much are these frame duplicitous of each other? Obviously TA triple + campy and Cyclone on the 515 is attractive.

Thoughts?

dailycommute

I am sure many will disagree but for me the Ishiwata and TruTemper treks ride better than Reynolds and are the only ones I currently have in keeper fleet--so go get 'er!

Falcon3

Get it. Ishiwata is no slouch. While you're at it, better get a touring bike. Here ya go: https://memphis.craigslist.org/bik/d...324087107.html

jpaschall

He's come down $150 since posting, but it's a size down from what I want. I can ride it, but prefer the size up. I also have a Miyata 210 in the stand so I'm not exactly in the market for a 27", canti'd tourer.

S28546

Sort of a philosophical question, but is it really a 515?

In 82, Trek sold the same frame (a 510) to be built with buyer (or shop) parts) as well as the same frame built as a complete bike (the 515) with Trek specified components.

So without the original bill of sale, how can you tell if it is a modified/component replaced 515 or a 510?

Just asking for a friend who recently picked up an 82 510 frame.

jpaschall

It is actually listed as a 515/510, so it is possible it was purchased as a frame, especially given the components on it now.

beicster 

I love my 82 61x and have no desire to replace it. Is there a difference in the geometry that stands out to you? Would you build it up differently so it filled a different niche? Or, do you just like to have bikes for a while and then go find a new one? Not that there is anything wrong with that.

Also, will this get in the way of you posting about the SuperCourse you bought a while back?

jpaschall

Differences in geometry are small. Angles are 0.5 degrees more slack, wheelbase is an inch longer. One key difference is that the 613 is 24" and the 51x is 25.5. I am happier on a 25.5" bike, generally, but the Trek is the best fitting 24" I've had.

The Raleigh is on serious delay as the chrome issue has me at a bit of a loss regarding how to proceed. I have been meaning to update that thread asking for some suggestions.

Bandera

Wrong size = Pass regardless of what flavor of Trek it is.

-Bandera

jpaschall

Here is the 510/515 in question. Missing the seat tube panel :/


Untitled by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr


Untitled by Joshua Paschall, on Flickr

beicster 

That is a beauty. I especially like that red. If you think it will fit you better, you should nab it while you can. If one ends up feeling better than the other, then flip one.

If I did not already have my 61x (I bought it used as a frame set so I have no idea which model it was) I would buy your 613 if you decided to flip it. Heck, I might consider it anyway so I can set one up 700c and the 650b (looks around to see if wife is reading over my shoulder).

S28546

Just because you can make it fit doesn't mean it fits. I happier with a size 36 belt, but my current belt is the best fitting size 33 belt I've had?

It is easy to spend someone else money, but I'd vote for getting the 51x and comparing rides. Flip the one that fits less well.

top506

This.
Took me 20 years to lean that.

Top

S28546

Wait, which bike is a size down from what you want? The Trek in post 1? Or the suggested alternative in post 3?

If the Trek 51x is not your desired size, forget my suggestion two posts back.

jpaschall

The Fuji is a size too small.

thinktubes 

I think it takes everyone at 20 years to lea(r)n that.

Chr0m0ly 

I've got a couple 531 Treks, but never ridden an Ishiwata or true temper framed model. How are they different?

Lascauxcaveman 

edit

Andy_K 

This is solid advice. I've never been shy about having multiple bikes that are nearly identical, but there's really little reason to do so. However, this give you a possible opportunity to upgrade you fit at little risk. That's worth something.

RiddleOfSteel

Good suggestions. I will echo the sentiment that having a bike in one's size is the best option--no excuses about "it's great, but it's a touch small" and all of that. In the end, it's totally up to you and what you're willing to live with physically (ride quality, fitment) and mentally (saying the size ultimately doesn't bother you). As a rider of similar height to you, I fit best on 25.5" Treks (63-65cm is my size range), though not the early big tourers as they have super long top tubes (60-60.5cm!) and I like and fit best on bikes with 57.5-59cm ones.

As for Ishiwata (022 tubing on these critters--they made 024, 022, 019, 017, and 015), my 024-tubed Ross (now sold) rode very very well. TruTemper tubing, like on my '88 Trek 560, is wonderful. Light, stiff where needed, lively, and not harsh. 531 in higher spec is, as always, no slouch; but Ishiwata and TruTemper should not be discounted.

The Golden Boy 

My personal opinion is that it really doesn't matter; the big thing is that it's a 510 frame- whatever gets hung on it is gravy. MII Cyclone was about as good as it got for 82- so it was advantageous to have that particular build.

I guess you could check the date codes on the components to see that they were in line with the frame and other components.

I guess there's people that are into that sort of stuff. There's also people that inexplicably place importance on "one owner" bikes. To me- it's the quality and relative rarity of the frame and the desirability of the components- especially at this level.

jpaschall

I'm going to hold off. I don't really care for the lack of seat tube panel; cosmetic, I know, but I have plenty of bikes allowing me to be picky. If he comes off the price a little I'll revisit it.

dailycommute

For me at 185+-lbs and riding 24in treks, the Ishiwata 022 and True Temper RC Gold tubing seem to flex less when pounding. They roll over nasty pavement easily and for me always a bit more comfortable than Reynolds but may have to do with frame size. Of course the Ishiwata and true temper frames tend to be cheaper as they often lack the pedigree. Two very different time frames though, the 1978 510 is very different than the 1988 560 though both are commuter duty bikes. 78 trek has nice handmade look to it while the 88 trek 560 truly looks like they just used what was laying around Waterloo to wind up the model's run. The only investment cast lug is the seat stay, do believe the head tube is cast to look like it's lugged and the fork crown is stamped vs cast!!!!!!! Probably why I picked it up so cheap, kinda of looked down by most trek lovers but the 1988 trek 560 with true temper has taken me more miles than any other one I own and is a lifetime keeper!

JohnDThompson 

They're both fine frames, and hard to prefer one over the other for anything other than subjective judgement. That said, my subjective preference is for the 510, as it was completely hand built in Waterloo, while the 613 used pre-built rear triangle and fork assemblies from Japan.

jpaschall

John, seller claims this bike never had the seat tube panel. Did some of these go out without them?