1973 Schwinn Super Sport Dura Ace Groupset Conversion Help Needed
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1973 Schwinn Super Sport Dura Ace Groupset Conversion Help Needed
I've installed an FC-7200 Crankset on my '73 Super Sport and found DA brakes, levers and bar cons.
I also found a new, cheap 6-7sp DA freewheel (MF 7400) I'd like to use.
I'm guessing it's not as easy as removing the old Schwinn freewheel and threading on the new one and I'm not ready to build a wheel.
Could anyone suggest a hub/ wheel combo accepting the new freewheel? Of course, if anyone has one they'd like to sell, I'd be interested. As of now, the current wheel is 27 1-1/4. If the SS could roll with a 700c wheel, let me know and I'd look at that option as well.
Thanks!
I also found a new, cheap 6-7sp DA freewheel (MF 7400) I'd like to use.
I'm guessing it's not as easy as removing the old Schwinn freewheel and threading on the new one and I'm not ready to build a wheel.
Could anyone suggest a hub/ wheel combo accepting the new freewheel? Of course, if anyone has one they'd like to sell, I'd be interested. As of now, the current wheel is 27 1-1/4. If the SS could roll with a 700c wheel, let me know and I'd look at that option as well.
Thanks!
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Using a 6- or 7-speed freewheel on your SS will likely involve cold setting the rear triangle. It's not rocket surgery but it does take some finesse. Once the rear spacing is correct, it is indeed as simple as unscrewing the old freewheel and screwing on the new one. You'll need the right freewheel tool(s) for that.
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I'd think you might get lucky and the axle on your old hub is long enough that all you'll need to do is add a spacer just long enough to keep the dropout from rubbing on the freewheel. I think we are only talking about going from 126 mm to 130 mm. Not much and you probably don't need all of those 4 mm.
The stays might flex just enough to not need cold setting. At any rate it's not a big deal. Post #7 in this thread will add some confidence...126mm to 130mm
You don't otherwise need a new hub do you? The new free wheel should fit the old hub with no problem. Taking my 78 Raleigh from 5 to 7 speed went without a hitch.
The stays might flex just enough to not need cold setting. At any rate it's not a big deal. Post #7 in this thread will add some confidence...126mm to 130mm
You don't otherwise need a new hub do you? The new free wheel should fit the old hub with no problem. Taking my 78 Raleigh from 5 to 7 speed went without a hitch.
Last edited by Iride01; 10-06-17 at 05:57 PM.
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A 6-7spd freewheel? is it 6 or 7 speed? I suspect if your FW is a 6 spd and the new DA is really 6 it should fit.
Will the brake calipers reach the rims? Do you have 27" or 700c wheels?
Will the brake calipers reach the rims? Do you have 27" or 700c wheels?
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I've puzzled about that too in the past. It's only a difference of 4 mm (<3/16") more that the pads have to adjust. I wish I'd tried that before I got rid of all my 27 inch wheels and bikes that used them.
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The '73 Super Sport was a 5 speed rear with 120mm spacing. You definitely need to coldset and realign the dropouts.
I wouldn't advise modernizing this particular model, as it has a lot of eccentricities to it. Better to upgrade with nice contemporary components.
I've got a '71 and I just threw on Suntour Vx derailleurs, barcons, VO fenders, and replaced the turkey levers with nice 70's dia compes.
No, the original hub is too short to accommodate a 6 or 7 speed, he'll need a new one. suntour did make 6 speed freewheels that would fit on a 5 speed (I forget what they are called), but theyre a bit more rare and expensive on ebay.
I wouldn't advise modernizing this particular model, as it has a lot of eccentricities to it. Better to upgrade with nice contemporary components.
I've got a '71 and I just threw on Suntour Vx derailleurs, barcons, VO fenders, and replaced the turkey levers with nice 70's dia compes.
No, the original hub is too short to accommodate a 6 or 7 speed, he'll need a new one. suntour did make 6 speed freewheels that would fit on a 5 speed (I forget what they are called), but theyre a bit more rare and expensive on ebay.
Last edited by zazenzach; 10-06-17 at 06:41 PM.
#7
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I put 700c Open Pros on my '73 Super Sport. I had to go to Tektro brakes, though, to get the required reach.
Photo shows the drivetrain in lowest gear (it's a climber).
Photo shows the drivetrain in lowest gear (it's a climber).
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On one of my bikes, I'm currently running a DA 7400 hub/freewheel laced to a Velocity Fusion rim. Works great and pretty bulletproof. The old Sansin hubs are usually a good value and they roll really nice.
This spring I built up a 1966 Super Sport as a utility bike. It's got a 700c wheelset with 8 speed cassette (cold set with 130mm spacing and works fine) and Dia Compe 610 front/750 rear calipers. Long reach Tektros would've worked too but didn't have them immediately on hand. I needed every bit of the 61 mm reach on front. Rear wasn't as close but I think it came out to something like 71 mm of reach. I don't remember exactly.
This spring I built up a 1966 Super Sport as a utility bike. It's got a 700c wheelset with 8 speed cassette (cold set with 130mm spacing and works fine) and Dia Compe 610 front/750 rear calipers. Long reach Tektros would've worked too but didn't have them immediately on hand. I needed every bit of the 61 mm reach on front. Rear wasn't as close but I think it came out to something like 71 mm of reach. I don't remember exactly.
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Once again, great intel. Thanks all.
I didnt see the sticker on the side of the DA freewheel box (obviously didn't open the box). It's a 7-speed. For $18 new, too cheap to pass up. I may try to cold set or simply look for a DA 5-speed to pair with the FD.
Having said that, the original RD is a Shimano SIS long cage. Any issues with that moving forward?
I didnt see the sticker on the side of the DA freewheel box (obviously didn't open the box). It's a 7-speed. For $18 new, too cheap to pass up. I may try to cold set or simply look for a DA 5-speed to pair with the FD.
Having said that, the original RD is a Shimano SIS long cage. Any issues with that moving forward?
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I have a new handbuilt pair of 700c wheels you may be interested in, if you go to that size. NEW Dura Ace 7200 hubset, 126 rear and 100 front. Rear is a freehub, UG, with NEW DA cogs that can go either 12-23 or 12-26 (26 DA drilled cogs are pretty rare). Rims are NEW Mavic 192's, silver anodized, with Sapim double butted spokes. With original NEW skewers.
I built these as a lark over the summer, then had them professionally tensioned and trued. PM me if you want to discuss. They aren't cheap, but will likely last a lifetime.
I built these as a lark over the summer, then had them professionally tensioned and trued. PM me if you want to discuss. They aren't cheap, but will likely last a lifetime.
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I have a new handbuilt pair of 700c wheels you may be interested in, if you go to that size. NEW Dura Ace 7200 hubset, 126 rear and 100 front. Rear is a freehub, UG, with NEW DA cogs that can go either 12-23 or 12-26 (26 DA drilled cogs are pretty rare). Rims are NEW Mavic 192's, silver anodized, with Sapim double butted spokes. With original NEW skewers.
I built these as a lark over the summer, then had them professionally tensioned and trued. PM me if you want to discuss. They aren't cheap, but will likely last a lifetime.
I built these as a lark over the summer, then had them professionally tensioned and trued. PM me if you want to discuss. They aren't cheap, but will likely last a lifetime.
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The '73 Super Sport was a 5 speed rear with 120mm spacing. You definitely need to coldset and realign the dropouts.
No, the original hub is too short to accommodate a 6 or 7 speed, he'll need a new one. suntour did make 6 speed freewheels that would fit on a 5 speed (I forget what they are called), but theyre a bit more rare and expensive on ebay.
No, the original hub is too short to accommodate a 6 or 7 speed, he'll need a new one. suntour did make 6 speed freewheels that would fit on a 5 speed (I forget what they are called), but theyre a bit more rare and expensive on ebay.
Dropout spacing on my '72 and '73 SS's are 126cm, however.
1973 SS 05.jpg
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[QUOTE=Hudson308;19914972]Good info to know on the hub width, thanks!
Dropout spacing on my '72 and '73 SS's are 126cm, however.
Thanks. Breaking out the calipers tomorrow.
Dropout spacing on my '72 and '73 SS's are 126cm, however.
Thanks. Breaking out the calipers tomorrow.
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I recall these SS bikes used 126 spacing, perhaps to get better dish and thus spoke-bracing angles.
There was also the special Schwinn freewheel with the anti-derail disc just outboard of the smallest cog, so some added width needed for that.
And finally there is the claw-mount derailer and it's retaining nut being inside of the driveside dropout, which takes up space that might be needed for the width of any particular freewheel.
So Schwinn had good reasons for using 126mm spacing on these bikes.
I have upgraded both of my '73 Supersports to six-speed uniglide freewheels, and donb't remember having to add more than a 1mm thick washer to achieve clearance, at least with the modern chain that I always use.
I sometimes end up massaging the shape of the derailer claw mounting nut using a Dremel with stone bit, to make the freewheel clear after I have rebuilt the hub with whatever spacing that I guessed would be needed. I've even ridden a bike with the freewheel left rubbing the nut after I clamped down on the QR lever, left to cut it's own groove in the nut and clearance needed to turn freely.
There was also the special Schwinn freewheel with the anti-derail disc just outboard of the smallest cog, so some added width needed for that.
And finally there is the claw-mount derailer and it's retaining nut being inside of the driveside dropout, which takes up space that might be needed for the width of any particular freewheel.
So Schwinn had good reasons for using 126mm spacing on these bikes.
I have upgraded both of my '73 Supersports to six-speed uniglide freewheels, and donb't remember having to add more than a 1mm thick washer to achieve clearance, at least with the modern chain that I always use.
I sometimes end up massaging the shape of the derailer claw mounting nut using a Dremel with stone bit, to make the freewheel clear after I have rebuilt the hub with whatever spacing that I guessed would be needed. I've even ridden a bike with the freewheel left rubbing the nut after I clamped down on the QR lever, left to cut it's own groove in the nut and clearance needed to turn freely.
Last edited by dddd; 10-08-17 at 12:42 PM.
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I recall these SS bikes used 126 spacing, perhaps to get better dish and thus spoke-bracing angles.
There was also the special Schwinn freewheel with the anti-derail disc just outboard of the smallest cog, so some added width needed for that.
And finally there is the claw-mount derailer and it's retaining nut being inside of the driveside dropout, which takes up space that might be needed for the width of any particular freewheel.
So Schwinn had good reasons for using 126mm spacing on these bikes.
I have upgraded both of my '73 Supersports to six-speed uniglide freewheels, and donb't remember having to add more than a 1mm thick washer to achieve clearance, at least with the modern chain that I always use.
I sometimes end up massaging the shape of the derailer claw mounting nut using a Dremel with stone bit, to make the freewheel clear after I have rebuilt the hub with whatever spacing that I guessed would be needed. I've even ridden a bike with the freewheel left rubbing the nut after I clamped down on the QR lever, left to cut it's own groove in the nut and clearance needed to turn freely.
There was also the special Schwinn freewheel with the anti-derail disc just outboard of the smallest cog, so some added width needed for that.
And finally there is the claw-mount derailer and it's retaining nut being inside of the driveside dropout, which takes up space that might be needed for the width of any particular freewheel.
So Schwinn had good reasons for using 126mm spacing on these bikes.
I have upgraded both of my '73 Supersports to six-speed uniglide freewheels, and donb't remember having to add more than a 1mm thick washer to achieve clearance, at least with the modern chain that I always use.
I sometimes end up massaging the shape of the derailer claw mounting nut using a Dremel with stone bit, to make the freewheel clear after I have rebuilt the hub with whatever spacing that I guessed would be needed. I've even ridden a bike with the freewheel left rubbing the nut after I clamped down on the QR lever, left to cut it's own groove in the nut and clearance needed to turn freely.
Thanks.
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My 1966 SS converted to 700c using the original center pull brakes. Pads are at maximum drop for both calipers and on its fat tires they hit right at the top of the rim braking surface with minimal clearance of the tire rubber. There is better clearance to the tire rubber with 700 x 32c tires. Don
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Back to the crankset and DA 7-speed freewheel. I'll need a thinner chain
Suggestions?
Nice looking SS Mr.Don, Mr. Scooper and Mr. SS!
Thanks!
Suggestions?
Nice looking SS Mr.Don, Mr. Scooper and Mr. SS!
Thanks!
Last edited by cqlink; 10-09-17 at 08:02 PM.
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OK...Spacing is a shade over 126mm
I've test fitted the DA 7400 freewheel and took a few pics. For those with calibrated eyeballs, by looking at the first pic, can I get away with adding spacers instead of coldsetting?
I know I'll need a thinner chain. Can I get enough clearance for the chain and the small cog with spacers?
Finally (for now), thoughts on a preferred spoke protector?
I've test fitted the DA 7400 freewheel and took a few pics. For those with calibrated eyeballs, by looking at the first pic, can I get away with adding spacers instead of coldsetting?
I know I'll need a thinner chain. Can I get enough clearance for the chain and the small cog with spacers?
Finally (for now), thoughts on a preferred spoke protector?
Last edited by cqlink; 10-11-17 at 02:21 PM.
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My 1966 SS converted to 700c using the original center pull brakes. Pads are at maximum drop for both calipers and on its fat tires they hit right at the top of the rim braking surface with minimal clearance of the tire rubber. There is better clearance to the tire rubber with 700 x 32c tires. Don
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Thanks again to all for the input and advise.
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It appears you'll be just fine with the clearance you've got. If you look at the space between the small cog and the frame, it's no less than the spaces between each cog. You'll need an 8-speed or better (thin) chain in any case.
As far as the spoke protector goes, that's a matter of personal taste. Many here prefer to ditch the protector altogether. My preference is for a small chrome protector that's not much bigger than the largest cog, like those offered in the mid-80's. The factory "pie plate" would give the bike a more "factory" appearance at first glance.
As far as the spoke protector goes, that's a matter of personal taste. Many here prefer to ditch the protector altogether. My preference is for a small chrome protector that's not much bigger than the largest cog, like those offered in the mid-80's. The factory "pie plate" would give the bike a more "factory" appearance at first glance.
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The local co-op has a big pile of $5 used tires. There were some donations of NOS tires. Emphasis on the "Old" in the Nimbus case as it doesn't look like the current ones, but these seem pretty good so far. Never heard of "Kylin" & find no country labeled on it, but assume it's Taiwanese or Chinese. Also, I mis-remembered...only the front rim is a close fit for the pads. Rear is a good, normal fit. Don
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Jeff: Rear tire is a Specialized Nimbus 700 x 41c(measures 39c inflated) Front is a "Kylin Brand" 700 x38c(measures 37c inflated).
The local co-op has a big pile of $5 used tires. There were some donations of NOS tires. Emphasis on the "Old" in the Nimbus case as it doesn't look like the current ones, but these seem pretty good so far. Never heard of "Kylin" & find no country labeled on it, but assume it's Taiwanese or Chinese. Also, I mis-remembered...only the front rim is a close fit for the pads. Rear is a good, normal fit. Don
The local co-op has a big pile of $5 used tires. There were some donations of NOS tires. Emphasis on the "Old" in the Nimbus case as it doesn't look like the current ones, but these seem pretty good so far. Never heard of "Kylin" & find no country labeled on it, but assume it's Taiwanese or Chinese. Also, I mis-remembered...only the front rim is a close fit for the pads. Rear is a good, normal fit. Don
And FWIW: I also have a Super Sport I'm working on. Both bikes are not going to be "stock" by any stretch.
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Obviously, I'm right there with you. Upon completion, I think I'm going to start a "Total Overkill" thread and ask for pictures of bikes where the owner simply went over the top with builds. Considerations include but are not limited to: Complete disregard of upgrade cost, no chance of recouping investment, pure love of the bike, frame, other features, ride quality and numbers of beers owner had before looking for parts.
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Obviously, I'm right there with you. Upon completion, I think I'm going to start a "Total Overkill" thread and ask for pictures of bikes where the owner simply went over the top with builds. Considerations include but are not limited to: Complete disregard of upgrade cost, no chance of recouping investment, pure love of the bike, frame, other features, ride quality and numbers of beers owner had before looking for parts.
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