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RIP 1979 Fuji America

Old 10-24-17, 12:38 PM
  #1  
willydstyle
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RIP 1979 Fuji America

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Old 10-24-17, 01:32 PM
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Yikes - didn't you just have it powder coated? Had you removed a lot of rust beforehand, or any other possible predictors? Sorry this happened to you...
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Old 10-24-17, 01:46 PM
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I would say that's repairable but perhaps not cost effective.




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Old 10-24-17, 01:50 PM
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Ouch!!!

The crack in the photo looks clean, but you might spread the crack a bit to see if you see rusted areas.

If it was recently powdercoated, it should have been sand blasted and inspected.
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Old 10-24-17, 01:59 PM
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It looks like the lug on the bottom bracket failed...those can be replaced by someone with a particular set of skills.

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Old 10-24-17, 02:14 PM
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I support your decision to euthanize this beloved friend.
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Old 10-24-17, 02:25 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Moose View Post
I would say that's repairable but perhaps not cost effective.
Yes, it is repairable but it is a big job. I've done it, and am still riding the bike thirty years later, but the only thing that made it cost-effective was the fact that I didn't have to pay for my own labor. Otherwise, repair cost is likely to approach or even exceed the cost of simply replacing the frame.

N.B. the typical cause for that type of failure is insufficient tube insertion into the bottom bracket shell. Those bulge-formed shells tend to be thin at the socket bases, and if the tube isn't fully inserted and brass fully penetrated into the joint, the thin base of the shell socket ends up taking the stress and flex from pedaling, and eventually fatigues and fails.
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Old 10-24-17, 03:34 PM
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Wow that’s bad
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Old 10-24-17, 03:46 PM
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Sorry for your loss.
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Old 10-24-17, 04:07 PM
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I suspect the high pressure of the powder coating caused the lug joint to fail. Of course I'm kidding. Bummer though. I'd be curious too to find out if rust caused this, or if it was insufficient tube insertion as JDT mentioned.
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Old 10-24-17, 06:11 PM
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I hate seeing threads that begin with "RIP". Sorry to see the end has come for an old friend.

My two rules in C&V.

T-Mar is always right.
JohnDThompson is always right.

If there's a bright side here... you get a chance to find an 80's America, or maybe a Miyata 1000, and enjoy them just as much or more.
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Old 10-24-17, 06:43 PM
  #12  
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So very sorry...
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Old 10-24-17, 07:00 PM
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That hurts even on this side of the screen.
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Old 10-24-17, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
...bulge-formed shells...
What does this mean? And how does one detect whether or not their bike has one?

Also, that's rough. I remember enjoying seeing your bike pre and post powder coat and it always looked fantastic.
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Old 10-24-17, 09:21 PM
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You're right, that frame is dead. If it were something really special, you could have the the bottom bracket replaced. It would probably only cost 3-4x what a new frame would run

If the frame were only painted, I might suggest trying to have the cracked area repaired via building up a large brass fillet. It might not be pretty, but should be strong enough, and probably wouldn't be all that expensive. With the powder coat, getting enough removed that do the brazing would be tough / expensive.
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Old 10-24-17, 09:44 PM
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Oh, that really sucks! It was such a gorgeous bike too.
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Old 10-25-17, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Piff View Post
What does [bulge-formed shell] mean?
A bulge-formed bottom bracket shell starts out as sheet metal into which a form is pressed to create the tube sockets. It is then folded and welded closed to create the tube into which the bottom bracket cups will thread.

And how does one detect whether or not their bike has one?
A weld seam on the bottom of the shell is sometimes evident.

N.B. there's nothing inherently wrong with bulge-forming; it has been used to make bottom bracket shells and lugs for decades. The shell on the OP's frame looks like a Nikko shell, used on probably hundreds of thousands of frames from many manufacturers, including Fuji, Trek, and many others. But if for some reason the tubes aren't fully inserted into the part, and/or not fully penetrated with brazing material, they can fail.
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Old 10-25-17, 08:07 AM
  #18  
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AAAAAAAAHHHHHH! I did the same thing to my old Lemond Malliot Jaune. Though the break was further up the seat tube on mine. I'm a bit surprised that your break was right at the BB cast. Time to shop for another frameset?

Edit: This guy seems to like the Miyata 1000 over the Fuji America:

Ride Comparo Fuji America V vs. Miyata 1000

Though I don't know how they compare geometry-wise. I recall looking at an older Bridgestone but wasn't a fan of the shorter top tube. I'd prefer either same size TT to ST or longer TT.

Last edited by ptempel; 10-25-17 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 10-25-17, 11:22 AM
  #19  
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HATE when that happens. See my avatar...
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Old 10-25-17, 06:14 PM
  #20  
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I know these bikes aren't "worth it" to fix, but I keep hoping that someone will lend one to an aspiring framebuilder/repairer for practice.
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Old 10-26-17, 10:40 AM
  #21  
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Thanks for the kind words and replies everyone. I'm already started on moving the equipment over to a chromed Schwinn Voyageur frame. A Miyata 1000 would indeed be super nice, but one didn't pop up on my radar soon enough and I ride every day.
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Old 10-26-17, 11:52 AM
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Not even 40 yet, too young to die.

The Voyageur should be a fine replacement.
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