Vintage MTB To Upright Bar / Urban Bike Conversions
#601
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Yeah, I hate the concept. Clearly, given my body proportions, a custom frame with a taller head tube and appropriately sized TT/ST for standover is really what's needed.
But, for a factory frame of the "old school" type MTB format, this one's pretty close, once the steer+stem+bars changes were made.
Last edited by Clyde1820; 09-25-20 at 04:16 PM.
#602
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I got my LBS to press the new headset (Cane Creek 40) in to the headtube, install the fork/spacers and stem. Picked it up yesterday as I was in the area and brought it home.
Good timing as I'm just about finished cleaning up the old drivetrain. I wanted to check it's general stance so I installed the seatpost and saddle, handlebars, and original wheels (please ignore the 1.5" slicks...they're what came mounted when I got this bike).

Loooooong headtub ate up almost all of the uncut fork steerer.

What do you think; looks ok so far?
Good timing as I'm just about finished cleaning up the old drivetrain. I wanted to check it's general stance so I installed the seatpost and saddle, handlebars, and original wheels (please ignore the 1.5" slicks...they're what came mounted when I got this bike).

Loooooong headtub ate up almost all of the uncut fork steerer.

What do you think; looks ok so far?
#603
Old Boy
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I got my LBS to press the new headset (Cane Creek 40) in to the headtube, install the fork/spacers and stem. Picked it up yesterday as I was in the area and brought it home.
Good timing as I'm just about finished cleaning up the old drivetrain. I wanted to check it's general stance so I installed the seatpost and saddle, handlebars, and original wheels (please ignore the 1.5" slicks...they're what came mounted when I got this bike).
Loooooong headtub ate up almost all of the uncut fork steerer.
What do you think; looks ok so far?
Good timing as I'm just about finished cleaning up the old drivetrain. I wanted to check it's general stance so I installed the seatpost and saddle, handlebars, and original wheels (please ignore the 1.5" slicks...they're what came mounted when I got this bike).
Loooooong headtub ate up almost all of the uncut fork steerer.
What do you think; looks ok so far?

... except I'm using all large fender washers instead of the ball-bearing thingy that this one uses. I've built over twenty bikes with it and it still works like a charm every time.
.
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Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
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#604
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Very nice, comfy geometry. I imagine it's pretty light as well. I hope your LBS didn't charge you much for pressing that headset in. You know you can make your own headset press for very little money? Mine at home looks like this except I'm using all large fender washers instead of the ball-bearing thingy that this one uses. I've built over twenty bikes with it and it still works like a charm every time.
.
.

Although the aluminum frame and original wheels are light, I don't think much else will be. Hoping for final build to be sub-15kg.
Headset installation was free with purchase of headset as they had to order it in. This shop is also a sponsor of our local road club (of which I'm a member) so we get pretty good discounts on both labour and materials. No complaints from me.
#605
Pedal to the medal
Many thanks!
#608
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Not quite done, yet, and there are the derailleur/shifter parts to get ordered once they're available, but ...
Here are a few photos of the bike, so far.
Will likely need to lop off an inch of the seatpost, as it's currently bottomed-out yet is too tall for me. Will need to order a PitLock seatpost collar to fit this seat tube (which I'd incorrectly measured; my bad). Will be ordering cable hangers front and rear (would like the Paul Funkey Monkey, but we'll see). And, still waiting for QBP to report to the shops that they've got the MicroShift front and rear derailleurs available for ordering. Possibly, to eventually have rain fenders; haven't decided yet.
Intended as my daily rider, around town and for longer (for me, <30mi) rides.
Photos of the bike, as of today. Wish the cranks, seatpost, saddle's frame, and fork could have been available in silver, but that was not to be. Otherwise, I like how it's turning out so far.

^ 1996 Trek 970 ZX frame, OXIII triple-butted steel. Will ultimately have MicroShift FD-M622-B 2x11spd front derailleur, MicroShift RD-M665L rear derailleur, MicroShift CS-H113 11-46T cassette, and MicroShift SL-M11 2x11 "thumbies" shifters. Brakes are the original Shimano Deore LX front and rear, with LX levers. Frame completely taken down, degreased, scrubbed and waxed.

^ Uncut steerer tube and unbranded riser bars, FSA Orbit MX headset, Shimano Deore brake levers, and (currently) the old 3x8spd "thumbies" shifters. Currently retaining the original System2 stem, but that might change depending on riding position adjustments.

^ Chris King "ThreadFit" bottom bracket, with Shimano Deore XT M8000 2x11spd crank in 34/24T and 165mm arms.

^ Kinekt seat post with Brooks B67 Aged saddle.

^ Surly Troll fork, with uncut steerer. (Likely to remain uncut, given the riding position and my tall torso.)

^ Custom wheelset -- Built up by John at R&E Cycles in Seattle, WA. Velocity CliffHanger 26 rims, polished, with DT Swiss Champion 14g spokes, DT Swiss brass nipples, White Industries MI5 hubs, and ReneHerse Rat Trap Pass 26x2.3in tires. Engraved, inside the rims, by the R&E builder. Dang, but these are beautiful in person.

^ White Industries MI5 9x100mm front hub, with PitLock security skewer.

^ White Industries MI5 10x135mm rear hub, with PitLock security skewer. Shimano 11sp carrier.
Here are a few photos of the bike, so far.
Will likely need to lop off an inch of the seatpost, as it's currently bottomed-out yet is too tall for me. Will need to order a PitLock seatpost collar to fit this seat tube (which I'd incorrectly measured; my bad). Will be ordering cable hangers front and rear (would like the Paul Funkey Monkey, but we'll see). And, still waiting for QBP to report to the shops that they've got the MicroShift front and rear derailleurs available for ordering. Possibly, to eventually have rain fenders; haven't decided yet.
Intended as my daily rider, around town and for longer (for me, <30mi) rides.
Photos of the bike, as of today. Wish the cranks, seatpost, saddle's frame, and fork could have been available in silver, but that was not to be. Otherwise, I like how it's turning out so far.

^ 1996 Trek 970 ZX frame, OXIII triple-butted steel. Will ultimately have MicroShift FD-M622-B 2x11spd front derailleur, MicroShift RD-M665L rear derailleur, MicroShift CS-H113 11-46T cassette, and MicroShift SL-M11 2x11 "thumbies" shifters. Brakes are the original Shimano Deore LX front and rear, with LX levers. Frame completely taken down, degreased, scrubbed and waxed.

^ Uncut steerer tube and unbranded riser bars, FSA Orbit MX headset, Shimano Deore brake levers, and (currently) the old 3x8spd "thumbies" shifters. Currently retaining the original System2 stem, but that might change depending on riding position adjustments.

^ Chris King "ThreadFit" bottom bracket, with Shimano Deore XT M8000 2x11spd crank in 34/24T and 165mm arms.

^ Kinekt seat post with Brooks B67 Aged saddle.

^ Surly Troll fork, with uncut steerer. (Likely to remain uncut, given the riding position and my tall torso.)

^ Custom wheelset -- Built up by John at R&E Cycles in Seattle, WA. Velocity CliffHanger 26 rims, polished, with DT Swiss Champion 14g spokes, DT Swiss brass nipples, White Industries MI5 hubs, and ReneHerse Rat Trap Pass 26x2.3in tires. Engraved, inside the rims, by the R&E builder. Dang, but these are beautiful in person.

^ White Industries MI5 9x100mm front hub, with PitLock security skewer.

^ White Industries MI5 10x135mm rear hub, with PitLock security skewer. Shimano 11sp carrier.
https://www.danscomp.com/sunday-nigh...xoCPg8QAvD_BwE

I also wanted to add this link: https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listc...hreadid=170526 , which discusses a lot of custom options.
Last edited by J.Higgins; 10-02-20 at 06:03 AM.
#609
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Yeah, what he said...
I have a short length of 2x4" wood that I've carved out for the purpose. Put that in a bench vice, set the crown of the fork on top of that, and then seat the race with PVC pipe (put a cap on the impact end) and a mallet. I learned all this stuff from YouTube.
.
I have a short length of 2x4" wood that I've carved out for the purpose. Put that in a bench vice, set the crown of the fork on top of that, and then seat the race with PVC pipe (put a cap on the impact end) and a mallet. I learned all this stuff from YouTube.
.
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Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
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#610
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Interested in a winter project of converting this old Valley Runner I picked up for $60. The frame is
in great shape so other than new tires , cables and bearings serviced what would you recommend
that I do to it?
in great shape so other than new tires , cables and bearings serviced what would you recommend
that I do to it?

#611
Old Boy
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What to do with it depends on how you want to use it, of course. It would make a first-class city bike just the way it is now. Maybe some nice slicks, or Schwalbe Table Tops like I have on the Dawes. Keep us posted on your project.
.
__________________
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
#612
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In my opinion , one of the great early mtn bikes. I built one up earlier this year for the Bike Exchange and it sold immediately. butted, lugged frame, forged dropouts and fork ends, This bike has everything going for it.
I just did an MB6 and changed the canti brakes for linear pull. It was an easy swap that you might consider. Unless you plan on mostly off road, I would put some street tires on it. At the shop we use cheap Kenda 1.75's but if you want to splurge, try some Fat Franks. They are the bomb.
I just did an MB6 and changed the canti brakes for linear pull. It was an easy swap that you might consider. Unless you plan on mostly off road, I would put some street tires on it. At the shop we use cheap Kenda 1.75's but if you want to splurge, try some Fat Franks. They are the bomb.
#613
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Clyde, I wanted to take the opportunity to cheer you on for this build. Such an excellent selection of components! I will however mirror other's sentiments about the outrageously-long steerer tube. I'm sure that functionality of that setup might be fine, but leaving it oversized like that ruins the overall aesthetic of the bike.
I will be toying with the positioning, and so very likely I'll be changing the stem and going with bars with higher rise. These current bars have a 9" pull-back, though, and that's needed. Aren't a lot of bars out there with sufficient pull-back that have greater rise. I've considered some in the "motorcycle" category, and I'll be reviewing once I get it all put together and can begin evaluating how it all feels. (Several choices of various levels of rise, over at JPcycles.com.) Possibly it'll result in a bar with as great pull-back (or greater), but one with more rise. Very likely, then, it'll involve ultimately knocking off a couple inches of the steerer tube, once everything's in the proper position. We'll see.
I'll do a custom-geometry frame at some point. On a different build.
Last edited by Clyde1820; 10-02-20 at 03:44 PM.
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#614
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Got this one finished enough for a test ride: no-name rigid MTB, Albatross bars, Shimano 8-speed bar-ends running friction mode, Sugino AT crankset set up as a compact double, Shimano v-brakes. It'll be my winter commuter, so those 1.5" Kenda tires will be replaced with a fat knobby on the rear and a fat studded tire on the front, plus fenders.





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#615
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Townie bike for my better half:

More pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143910537@N03/albums/72157716179981631

More pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143910537@N03/albums/72157716179981631
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#616
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Townie bike for my better half:

More pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143910537@N03/albums/72157716179981631

More pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143910537@N03/albums/72157716179981631
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#618
Old Boy
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N+1 To The Rescue!
The Dawes again... sorry. I'm still developing the drivetrain on this bike. After Sunday's ride, I'm not happy with the 1x10 setup, even after installing a Wolf-Tooth 40T "Drop Stop" chainring.

... but maybe I was on the wrong bike? The trail I was riding when I took this shot had some serious climbs on it. I later found out that it was mostly a hiking trail and disc golf course, and that bicycles seldom ventured there. I guess that's why I had to stop and walk this thing up several steep climbs and switchbacks to the top of the ridgeline. If I had left everything stock, I would have had a Suntour Mountech 3x5 setup with an adequate granny gear to make it up this trail. But because I wanted the perfect all-rounder, I went with 1x10 instead.
And I'm afraid there may be no going back. That would involve cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle back to its stock 120mm O.L.D., and I really don't want to put that kind of stress into the steel. I'm thinking that, if I really want to take on this kind of climb on this bike, I should go to a compact double up front, something like 44/34, so I could have that 1/1 granny option. But wait!
The 1x10 on this bike works perfectly for 99% of everyday riding. I think what I actually need is N+1, in the form of a mid-80s Lotus Pegasus, Miyata Ridge Runner, or Shogun Prairie Breaker (Was that Shogun's top-tier MTB back then? Research is sketchy on this.). None of these have the cachet of the Stumpyumpers, Ritchey's, or Fishers, but that just means that they are financially within reach, while still being every bit as good, IMHO.
Looks like I'd better go bike hunting!
.

... but maybe I was on the wrong bike? The trail I was riding when I took this shot had some serious climbs on it. I later found out that it was mostly a hiking trail and disc golf course, and that bicycles seldom ventured there. I guess that's why I had to stop and walk this thing up several steep climbs and switchbacks to the top of the ridgeline. If I had left everything stock, I would have had a Suntour Mountech 3x5 setup with an adequate granny gear to make it up this trail. But because I wanted the perfect all-rounder, I went with 1x10 instead.
And I'm afraid there may be no going back. That would involve cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle back to its stock 120mm O.L.D., and I really don't want to put that kind of stress into the steel. I'm thinking that, if I really want to take on this kind of climb on this bike, I should go to a compact double up front, something like 44/34, so I could have that 1/1 granny option. But wait!
The 1x10 on this bike works perfectly for 99% of everyday riding. I think what I actually need is N+1, in the form of a mid-80s Lotus Pegasus, Miyata Ridge Runner, or Shogun Prairie Breaker (Was that Shogun's top-tier MTB back then? Research is sketchy on this.). None of these have the cachet of the Stumpyumpers, Ritchey's, or Fishers, but that just means that they are financially within reach, while still being every bit as good, IMHO.
Looks like I'd better go bike hunting!

.
__________________
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Last edited by DQRider; 10-05-20 at 09:01 PM.
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#619
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The Dawes again... sorry. I'm still developing the drivetrain on this bike. After Sunday's ride, I'm not happy with the 1x10 setup, even after installing a Wolf-Tooth 40T "Drop Stop" chainring.

... but maybe I was on the wrong bike? The trail I was riding when I took this shot had some serious climbs on it. I later found out that it was mostly a hiking trail and disc golf course, and that bicycles seldom ventured there. I guess that's why I had to stop and walk this thing up several steep climbs and switchbacks to the top of the ridgeline. If I had left everything stock, I would have had a Suntour Mountech 3x5 setup with an adequate granny gear to make it up this trail. But because I wanted the perfect all-rounder, I went with 1x10 instead.
And I'm afraid there may be no going back. That would involve cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle back to its stock 120mm O.L.D., and I really don't want to put that kind of stress into the steel. I'm thinking that, if I really want to take on this kind of climb on this bike, I should go to a compact double up front, something like 44/34, so I could have that 1/1 granny option. But wait!
The 1x10 on this bike works perfectly for 99% of everyday riding. I think what I actually need is N+1, in the form of a mid-80s Lotus Pegasus, Miyata Ridge Runner, or Shogun Prairie Breaker (Was that Shogun's top-tier MTB back then? Research is sketchy on this.). None of these have the cachet of the Stumpyumpers, Ritchey's, or Fishers, but that just means that they are financially within reach, while still being every bit as good, IMHO.
Looks like I'd better go bike hunting!
.

... but maybe I was on the wrong bike? The trail I was riding when I took this shot had some serious climbs on it. I later found out that it was mostly a hiking trail and disc golf course, and that bicycles seldom ventured there. I guess that's why I had to stop and walk this thing up several steep climbs and switchbacks to the top of the ridgeline. If I had left everything stock, I would have had a Suntour Mountech 3x5 setup with an adequate granny gear to make it up this trail. But because I wanted the perfect all-rounder, I went with 1x10 instead.
And I'm afraid there may be no going back. That would involve cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle back to its stock 120mm O.L.D., and I really don't want to put that kind of stress into the steel. I'm thinking that, if I really want to take on this kind of climb on this bike, I should go to a compact double up front, something like 44/34, so I could have that 1/1 granny option. But wait!
The 1x10 on this bike works perfectly for 99% of everyday riding. I think what I actually need is N+1, in the form of a mid-80s Lotus Pegasus, Miyata Ridge Runner, or Shogun Prairie Breaker (Was that Shogun's top-tier MTB back then? Research is sketchy on this.). None of these have the cachet of the Stumpyumpers, Ritchey's, or Fishers, but that just means that they are financially within reach, while still being every bit as good, IMHO.
Looks like I'd better go bike hunting!

.
FWIW, I've had nothing but issues with every 1x setup I've ever had. Either there is not enough low end or not enough high end. I had a Surly ECR with that problem, and after several cassette mods, and swaps, and chainring swaps, I came to the conclusion that 1x gearing is good for multi-use trails and rail trails and thats about it.
#621
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The Dawes again... sorry. I'm still developing the drivetrain on this bike. After Sunday's ride, I'm not happy with the 1x10 setup, even after installing a Wolf-Tooth 40T "Drop Stop" chainring.

... but maybe I was on the wrong bike? The trail I was riding when I took this shot had some serious climbs on it. I later found out that it was mostly a hiking trail and disc golf course, and that bicycles seldom ventured there. I guess that's why I had to stop and walk this thing up several steep climbs and switchbacks to the top of the ridgeline. If I had left everything stock, I would have had a Suntour Mountech 3x5 setup with an adequate granny gear to make it up this trail. But because I wanted the perfect all-rounder, I went with 1x10 instead.
And I'm afraid there may be no going back. That would involve cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle back to its stock 120mm O.L.D., and I really don't want to put that kind of stress into the steel. I'm thinking that, if I really want to take on this kind of climb on this bike, I should go to a compact double up front, something like 44/34, so I could have that 1/1 granny option. But wait!
The 1x10 on this bike works perfectly for 99% of everyday riding. I think what I actually need is N+1, in the form of a mid-80s Lotus Pegasus, Miyata Ridge Runner, or Shogun Prairie Breaker (Was that Shogun's top-tier MTB back then? Research is sketchy on this.). None of these have the cachet of the Stumpyumpers, Ritchey's, or Fishers, but that just means that they are financially within reach, while still being every bit as good, IMHO.
Looks like I'd better go bike hunting!
.

... but maybe I was on the wrong bike? The trail I was riding when I took this shot had some serious climbs on it. I later found out that it was mostly a hiking trail and disc golf course, and that bicycles seldom ventured there. I guess that's why I had to stop and walk this thing up several steep climbs and switchbacks to the top of the ridgeline. If I had left everything stock, I would have had a Suntour Mountech 3x5 setup with an adequate granny gear to make it up this trail. But because I wanted the perfect all-rounder, I went with 1x10 instead.
And I'm afraid there may be no going back. That would involve cold-setting (bending) the rear triangle back to its stock 120mm O.L.D., and I really don't want to put that kind of stress into the steel. I'm thinking that, if I really want to take on this kind of climb on this bike, I should go to a compact double up front, something like 44/34, so I could have that 1/1 granny option. But wait!
The 1x10 on this bike works perfectly for 99% of everyday riding. I think what I actually need is N+1, in the form of a mid-80s Lotus Pegasus, Miyata Ridge Runner, or Shogun Prairie Breaker (Was that Shogun's top-tier MTB back then? Research is sketchy on this.). None of these have the cachet of the Stumpyumpers, Ritchey's, or Fishers, but that just means that they are financially within reach, while still being every bit as good, IMHO.
Looks like I'd better go bike hunting!

.
#622
Junior Member

~30 year old Trek 930 rescued from the trash in an alley in Minneapolis, repainted “Illusion Money” powdercoat, set up with 1x 10 speed with a Jones riser loop bar and René Herse Rat Trap Pass 26 x 2.3” tires. The bike feels light, responsive, and smooth!
#623
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Looks rad! How did you fit a 10sp cassette in the rear dropouts? How wide is the rear end?
#624
Junior Member
I took off the original 7-speed wheel, and replaced it with a wheel that has a Shimano-HG-compatible hub that can fit 8-, 9-, and 10-speed cassettes (and also 11-speed MTB cassettes, which I’ve used successfully on other MTB frames from the same era).
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