Vintage MTB To Upright Bar / Urban Bike Conversions
#1051
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Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Superbe, Abeni Triatlon, 1992 GT Timberline custom "neo-klunker", 1988 Miyata Valley Runner Townie
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Question about stands.
I’ve just finished my long overdue 1988 Miyata Valley Runner build.
This model has a chainstay u-brake, so the usual spot to fit a stand is out. I previously had one of those stands that clamps to the chainstay and seatstay near the rear axle, but aside from being ugly, they’re not the most stable due to being at the rear instead of near the middle.
Are there any nice alternatives?
I’ve just finished my long overdue 1988 Miyata Valley Runner build.
This model has a chainstay u-brake, so the usual spot to fit a stand is out. I previously had one of those stands that clamps to the chainstay and seatstay near the rear axle, but aside from being ugly, they’re not the most stable due to being at the rear instead of near the middle.
Are there any nice alternatives?
#1052
Happy banana slug
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Location: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
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Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
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We'll need to see pics of the bike. Um, to help you find the right kickstand; yeah that's it! That's the ticket! 

Question about stands.
I’ve just finished my long overdue 1988 Miyata Valley Runner build.
This model has a chainstay u-brake, so the usual spot to fit a stand is out. I previously had one of those stands that clamps to the chainstay and seatstay near the rear axle, but aside from being ugly, they’re not the most stable due to being at the rear instead of near the middle.
Are there any nice alternatives?
I’ve just finished my long overdue 1988 Miyata Valley Runner build.
This model has a chainstay u-brake, so the usual spot to fit a stand is out. I previously had one of those stands that clamps to the chainstay and seatstay near the rear axle, but aside from being ugly, they’re not the most stable due to being at the rear instead of near the middle.
Are there any nice alternatives?
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#1054
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#1055
Happy banana slug
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@Commando, you are SOL; the only place to put a kickstand is on the stays. It's that or carve yourself a stick to brace it up at the bottom bracket. Sweet build, BTW.
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#1056
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Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Superbe, Abeni Triatlon, 1992 GT Timberline custom "neo-klunker", 1988 Miyata Valley Runner Townie
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Damn, but I thought as much. I can't find one that looks nice, which is a real shame.
Thanks for the compliment
Thanks for the compliment
@Commando, you are SOL; the only place to put a kickstand is on the stays. It's that or carve yourself a stick to brace it up at the bottom bracket. Sweet build, BTW.
#1057
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Thank you. Yes, those are temporary grips, and Oury is on my list of ones to check out. This was a bare frame a couple weeks ago until a friend insisted I get it together to enter the ATB class in a vintage mountain bike show he was organising. I had a rough idea of what I wanted and built it out of bits I had laying around. The only thing I bought specifically for the build was the tyres the day before the show.
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#1058
framebuilder
Commando, nice bike and build! I've enjoyed the bikes I've built for myself (including the frames) for around town and bike trail riding use. I built one frame with a kickstand attached to the seat and chain stays and found it worked well enough for me. Of course you have to cut the length of the leg so it leans at just the right angle. Since you have no choice where to put a kickstand you might try one again that attaches all the way back and make sure it is the right length.
I also recommend you rotate your handlebars so the grip part is pointing a bit down instead of up. That way you don't have an uncomfortable wrist bend but rather they are straight to your arms.
I also recommend you rotate your handlebars so the grip part is pointing a bit down instead of up. That way you don't have an uncomfortable wrist bend but rather they are straight to your arms.
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#1059
Happy banana slug
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^ ^ ^ Good catch on the handlebar.
#1060
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Noted on the bars. Still lots of work to do on this build, I finished it the night before the show and rode it for the first time in the carpark after unloading it. I don't even think I'll be using the XT derailleurs on it, they were just the cleanest I had in the parts bin. It shifts fine on the work stand and I've managed to adjust the stops so the chain doesn't come off, but I'm not sure it's ideal. I hope to take it for a shakedown cruise sometime this week to get a feel for it.
Commando, nice bike and build! I've enjoyed the bikes I've built for myself (including the frames) for around town and bike trail riding use. I built one frame with a kickstand attached to the seat and chain stays and found it worked well enough for me. Of course you have to cut the length of the leg so it leans at just the right angle. Since you have no choice where to put a kickstand you might try one again that attaches all the way back and make sure it is the right length.
I also recommend you rotate your handlebars so the grip part is pointing a bit down instead of up. That way you don't have an uncomfortable wrist bend but rather they are straight to your arms.
I also recommend you rotate your handlebars so the grip part is pointing a bit down instead of up. That way you don't have an uncomfortable wrist bend but rather they are straight to your arms.
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#1062
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Thank you. Yes, those are temporary grips, and Oury is on my list of ones to check out. This was a bare frame a couple weeks ago until a friend insisted I get it together to enter the ATB class in a vintage mountain bike show he was organising. I had a rough idea of what I wanted and built it out of bits I had laying around. The only thing I bought specifically for the build was the tyres the day before the show.

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#1066
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Fisher HK II

Fisher Hoo-Koo-E-Koo
Last edited by ollo_ollo; 04-04-23 at 09:10 PM. Reason: add annother
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#1067
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Here are a few pics of a project that I have not yet gotten to. It's a Univega Ultima Pro, from 1984 or 1985 I think, all original but the tires and probably saddle. As you can see, it's been rode hard and put up wet, for many years. It has scrapes and some rust on them, and there is paint splatter on it that I hope might yield to rubbing compound. I have done nothing to it yet. (But seatpost and stem both are free---I checked!) I picked it up in Tennessee during a road trip, kinda wrk101-style, thinking it would be a great project for a midwest rails-to-trails kind of bike, then that kind of shifted to the back burner. Maybe this is the year!
I've not been active working on bikes, or on here, for several years, and I'm not the wrench many of you are, so I will have some questions.
Starting with: what kind of bars can I use with the slingshot stem? I'm looking to replace the flat bars with something with rise and a bit of turn-back. Will any old nominallly 25.4 clamp-size bar have enough 22.2 pipe on either side so the stem will grab it?
Your thoughts (and prayers!) welcome.




I've not been active working on bikes, or on here, for several years, and I'm not the wrench many of you are, so I will have some questions.
Starting with: what kind of bars can I use with the slingshot stem? I'm looking to replace the flat bars with something with rise and a bit of turn-back. Will any old nominallly 25.4 clamp-size bar have enough 22.2 pipe on either side so the stem will grab it?
Your thoughts (and prayers!) welcome.





__________________
I never think I have hit hard, unless it rebounds.
- Dr Samuel Johnson
I never think I have hit hard, unless it rebounds.
- Dr Samuel Johnson
Last edited by Chicago Al; 04-29-23 at 01:18 PM.
#1068
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Here are a few pics of a project that I have not yet gotten to. It's a Univega Ultima Pro, from 1984 or 1985 I think, all original but the tires and probably saddle. As you can see, it's been rode hard and put up wet, for many years. It has scrapes and some rust on them, and there is paint splatter on it that I hope might yield to rubbing compound. I have done nothing to it yet. (But seatpost and stem both are free---I checked!) I picked it up in Tennessee during a road trip, kinda wrk101-style, thinking it would be a great project for a midwest rails-to-trails kind of bike, then that kind of shifted to the back burner. Maybe this is the year!
I've not been active working on bikes, or on here, for several years, and I'm not the wrench many of you are, so I will have some questions.
Starting with: what kind of bars can I use with the slingshot stem? I'm looking to replace the flat bars with something with rise and a bit of turn-back. Will any old nominallly 25.4 clamp-size bar have enough 22.2 pipe on either side so the stem will grab it?
Your thoughts (and prayers!) welcome.
I've not been active working on bikes, or on here, for several years, and I'm not the wrench many of you are, so I will have some questions.
Starting with: what kind of bars can I use with the slingshot stem? I'm looking to replace the flat bars with something with rise and a bit of turn-back. Will any old nominallly 25.4 clamp-size bar have enough 22.2 pipe on either side so the stem will grab it?
Your thoughts (and prayers!) welcome.
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#1069
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#1070
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've been enjoying my 94 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo a lot once I got the bars up to suit my old back.



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#1071
Senior Member
Thread Starter



This 1982 Trek 614 frame really came together nicely and it's now one of my favorites.
Yesterday, Sunday, was perfect weather in the Dallas,TX area and it performed terrific on a 50 miler, my longest on it so far.
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#1072
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Starting with: what kind of bars can I use with the slingshot stem? I'm looking to replace the flat bars with something with rise and a bit of turn-back. Will any old nominallly 25.4 clamp-size bar have enough 22.2 pipe on either side so the stem will grab it?
Your thoughts (and prayers!) welcome.

Your thoughts (and prayers!) welcome.

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#1074
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I have an interest in this too, as my Schwinn Sierra has the same stem. I can only pass on what I have heard, because I haven't actually done it yet. One, as you said, is to use a standard bar with the clamps on each side of the center bulge. The other was to find a motorcycle bar. I don't know if they are standard spacing, but I saw once where a guy found an alloy motocross bar on Amazon to replace the steel one on his bike.
`84 Trek 850

As you can see, the bulge fits perfectly within V of the slingshot stem. And it provides a perfect spot to mount a bell.
`84 Dawes Ranger

On this application, a Sunlite Northroads Touring bar IIRC, I had to use hockey tape to get a good solid mount, as it seemed the leverage of the pullbacks and the O.D. of the tubing at the mounting points weren't quite compatible. I briefly considered filing the flats on the stem, but the tape worked just fine.
Hope this helps.
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Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
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#1075
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Thanks Pompiere and DQRider! DQ, that exactly answers my question. And BTW, your bikes and pics here are an inspiration.
__________________
I never think I have hit hard, unless it rebounds.
- Dr Samuel Johnson
I never think I have hit hard, unless it rebounds.
- Dr Samuel Johnson