My new Peugeot PX10-
11-18-17, 10:33 AM
#51
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@italianbiker Let me know if you want an NOS Suntour Spirt FD. I came upon a few of them a while back. You can have it for shipping.
11-18-17, 10:55 AM
#52
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That said the thing about PX10s was that they were built to a price point. The idea was to offer a fully race-able bike with a full Reynolds 531 DB frame and sewups at an affordable cost. They skimped a bit on fit and finish and non essential parts to do this.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 11-18-17 at 11:04 AM.
11-18-17, 03:55 PM
#54
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The headset uses about 25 balls at each end, size 5/32 inch. If you're not sure if you have the right number, take one or two out. Too few would be fine. Too many is very bad.
The bottom bracket uses 11 balls at each end, size 1/4 inch.
Even though French makers wanted everything to be metric, it turned out too difficult with bearing balls, and I believe virtually all balls in all countries are measured in inches.
The bottom bracket uses 11 balls at each end, size 1/4 inch.
Even though French makers wanted everything to be metric, it turned out too difficult with bearing balls, and I believe virtually all balls in all countries are measured in inches.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
11-18-17, 03:56 PM
#55
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Garb the caliper by the arm all the down below the pads and pull outwards...this will increase friction under the bolt head. tighten then push caliper back into place. Your brake pads are too low. When they contact woth the rim the pad post should be perpendicular to the rim.
What are the rim date codes? (just curious)
PM me your mailing address and I'll send some Mafac tools
What are the rim date codes? (just curious)
PM me your mailing address and I'll send some Mafac tools
0173
11-18-17, 04:12 PM
#56
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The headset uses about 25 balls at each end, size 5/32 inch. If you're not sure if you have the right number, take one or two out. Too few would be fine. Too many is very bad.
The bottom bracket uses 11 balls at each end, size 1/4 inch.
Even though French makers wanted everything to be metric, it turned out too difficult with bearing balls, and I believe virtually all balls in all countries are measured in inches.
The bottom bracket uses 11 balls at each end, size 1/4 inch.
Even though French makers wanted everything to be metric, it turned out too difficult with bearing balls, and I believe virtually all balls in all countries are measured in inches.
11-18-17, 07:18 PM
#58
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I replaced my FD with a SJ A103 which is made for a triple. Here's a comparison pic
11-18-17, 07:36 PM
#59
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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A few years ago I replaced the "triple" seemingly heavy duty Simplex on our tandem (not original) with one of those new metal ones. It has worked superbly. Highly recommended.
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11-18-17, 07:51 PM
#60
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You obviously realised that the brake blocks were in upside down in the first pix. :0)
If you slip the wheel out and grasp the calipers together you'll reveal the bolt head, so you can get a socket on it.
Centre by eye, tighten the nut behind the brake-tree then do any further truing on the pad mounts.
If that's the original AVA stem, yes - they're light, so are prone to failure if you have too little seated in the steerer tube (so they'll flex, something light alloy will tolerate for just so long).
I'd agree about the triple chainwheel being non original, although Stronglight 93 is right.
Finally, yes, it would have had classic Mafac Racers.
You got a real find there!
If you slip the wheel out and grasp the calipers together you'll reveal the bolt head, so you can get a socket on it.
Centre by eye, tighten the nut behind the brake-tree then do any further truing on the pad mounts.
If that's the original AVA stem, yes - they're light, so are prone to failure if you have too little seated in the steerer tube (so they'll flex, something light alloy will tolerate for just so long).
I'd agree about the triple chainwheel being non original, although Stronglight 93 is right.
Finally, yes, it would have had classic Mafac Racers.
You got a real find there!
I use 6 point socket that I have ground face flat, those bolts have a very narrow head, many sockets have a chamfer to help guide figment, no help here.
I would reglue the base tape, and tires to rims, new brake blocks. I have been stubbornly frugal but no longer, brake blocks age out.
11-18-17, 08:15 PM
#61
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Great looking 73 PX-10, It must have been stored indoors because mine was garaged and it wasn't that nice when I pulled it out. Good news I can tell from looking at your other pictures you have the original derailleurs. I don't think you have the original brakes or crankset, but that is not a big deal. Unfortunately that front derailleur was made with delrin in the worst possible location. I actually rode with mine cracked and it was working and secure, but I replaced it with a new all metal simplex I soon as I could. The original FD model is model LJ A200 VeloBase.com - Component: Simplex LJ A200
I replaced my FD with a SJ A103 which is made for a triple. Here's a comparison pic
I replaced my FD with a SJ A103 which is made for a triple. Here's a comparison pic
Agree SJa103 is the one to get to do this all properly. Might take some patience. Also, it depends on the spacing of the two bigger rings. If they are close or half step, a non triple FD will work better.
11-18-17, 10:20 PM
#62
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That's interesting, your 73 came with an LJ? I had been under impression that this was a 72 because of the plain lugs. Most 73 had gone back to the nervex lugs. IIRC. I wonder if this is one is transitional, being that it was a very early 73. Not sure Peugeot was to concerned about exact dates. Anyways, my 72 I'm pretty sure came with a prestige FD, not an LJ.
Agree SJa103 is the one to get to do this all properly. Might take some patience. Also, it depends on the spacing of the two bigger rings. If they are close or half step, a non triple FD will work better.
Agree SJa103 is the one to get to do this all properly. Might take some patience. Also, it depends on the spacing of the two bigger rings. If they are close or half step, a non triple FD will work better.
The rims are 0173. So, I imagine the frame was probably finished in the year 1972. I believe you are correct that the plain lugs were 1972
11-18-17, 10:32 PM
#63
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I have the same triple crank set on my PX 10. I use a Campagnolo NR with no problem at all.
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11-19-17, 08:59 AM
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I fill the headset cups with 5/32" balls until they jumble and then remove two per Sutherland's or Barnett's, I forget which. It works better for me than counting balls. I always replace all balls with grade 25. The bottom bracket needs 11 1/4" balls per side. Don't remove the fixed cup. It's too hard to get it tight enough not to loosen.
11-19-17, 09:20 AM
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I think you mean Tufo and I think you paid too much. The big labels are ugly but a lot of tubulars have them these days. The sidewalls will darken with age and they won't be so noticeable.
11-19-17, 09:25 AM
#66
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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11-19-17, 10:51 AM
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Where do you get your tires from?
11-19-17, 12:34 PM
#68
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Loook for a Simplex SJA102. It has the housing stop you need and is all metal. I have them on a couple of bikes and I didn't pay more than $20 each for them. The SJA103 was made for a triple, but they're hard to find and not necessary in your case since your smallest ring isn't small.
I fill the headset cups with 5/32" balls until they jumble and then remove two per Sutherland's or Barnett's, I forget which. It works better for me than counting balls. I always replace all balls with grade 25. The bottom bracket needs 11 1/4" balls per side. Don't remove the fixed cup. It's too hard to get it tight enough not to loosen.
I fill the headset cups with 5/32" balls until they jumble and then remove two per Sutherland's or Barnett's, I forget which. It works better for me than counting balls. I always replace all balls with grade 25. The bottom bracket needs 11 1/4" balls per side. Don't remove the fixed cup. It's too hard to get it tight enough not to loosen.
I'll head to the local bike shop and purchase grade 25 bearings 1/4 inch and 5/32.
11-26-17, 05:38 AM
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11-26-17, 01:49 PM
#71
Disraeli Gears
The PX-10 model with plain lugs was called "PX-10 LE" in 1974. (Legere equipe) Don't know if that applies to a '72 model. If the one I have is supposed to be lighter than the one with Nervex Pro lugs, then I'm glad I don't have one of those instead!
05-16-22, 04:25 AM
#72
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And you have the hard-to-find straight QR skewers on the hubs (I've heard of those getting stolen..).
When replacing bearings lay the bike down over a mat or something to catch any stray balls. I use a small magnet to remove any really greasy ones...
When replacing bearings lay the bike down over a mat or something to catch any stray balls. I use a small magnet to remove any really greasy ones...
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