Building from scratch
 

Hi all,
If you were to build up a bike (circa early 80s) with only the frameset and no other components, excluding price and brand loyalty, what are you're general order of choosing components.

I'm curious about wheel size and brake choices as well. I have a feeling that's something that can lead to the most mismatched combination effecting actual use.

All thoughts are welcome! And sure, you can point out this is a noob question.

Thanks!

Assembling from a frameset is highly personal.
Are you a perfectionist? = make it all match, ie Suntour, ShimaNo, or (most excellent) Campy.
Are you on a budget? = throw it together and upgrade when you find bargains.
Are you just wanting a nice bike to ride? Put together what you want based on need, ie mountains, hills flats.

Want modern components? = that's doable as well. But with a couple of caveats.

About the only thing that's a No Go is disc brakes on an older frame.
The world is your oyster.

For me, the answer entirely depends on what kind of riding I’d want this bike to do: long brevets? Mainly dirt roads? Fast road training rides? Wet weather commuter?

I would go with a frame that uses 700c wheels. You'd get more choices for wheels/tires/brakes.

If you go this route you could do anything from period-correct to full-on modern.

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...if I already have a frame from the early 80's, I usually install a headset, which is pretty easy for that time period since centerpull brakes are mostly a memory , and it doesn't require a hanger. I then measure the fork width and rear dropouts, in order to select the proper hubs with regard to width. Check the frame and fork alignment. This is the time to consider spreading the rear and realigning the dropouts if youi want a 130 spacing and have a 126 frame.

I then either build wheels for it or find some in the reconditioned pile that have the proper width hubs. If it's a road bike I generally go with 700c wheel rims, especially in the 80's when that had pretty much become standard on the higher end stuff. When I have the wheels, I check the derailleur hanger for alignment (and correct it if required).

the rest of it is figuring which crank I have available, the spindle it requires in this frame, installing it, calculating gearing and possibly swapping out chainrings and cog numbers on the rear, measuring the frame for TT length and selecting the proper length stem, and whichever bar seems appropriate for the intended use. Saddle, seat post (measure for proper diameter)...I'm probably forgetting stuff. If I have a matched groupset, I generally use it.

If I already have brakes and levers that match the group, I use them with new pads. If not, measure reach with wheels installed front and rear, and look for something with dual pivots and the proper reach...usually ends up being from Tektro, but some others come in pretty close in price when they are on sale. I try to use components that work as well as the best stuff from the time period...dual pivot side pulls work even better than most of the early 80's single pivots. But those work pretty well too.

3alarmer has much to work with, 80's is a transitional period for brake reach, and maximum allowable tire width, assuming 700c. If you are looking at a mtb or a hybrid.. not so much. Threading type sneeks in there too, most likely English 1.370 x 24 or Italian 36 x 24... setting aside the French for now.

Starting with a frame and fork is the most expensive way to conjure up a bicycle of course.

I'll assume you're a bit more picky than "throw on anything that works".
I try to match components by nationality and vintage. For early 80's you have tons of great choices for a classic road racing or touring bike, that's the easiest vintage of frame to set up as far as I'm concerned. For me, Italian bikes get Italian components, French bikes get French parts, Japanese get Japanese, and any other nationality can be anything. As Repechage sez, it's an expensive way to set up a bike, but if you're careful it's not THAT expensive, plus it's fun and you get exactly what you want.

Lol, interesting way to slip in you're brand preference. I'm trying to maintain components to Italian but it probably won't be all campy.

Appreciate the input

I'm trying to put together a fast road bike. I have a commuter but I'm sure I'll end up riding this next one all the time.

Thanks for the very thorough breakdown. It's exactly what I was looking for!

Yea it seems like it's turning out to be. But I don't have any components to work with other than a NR rear derailleur and I'll probably try to run it with my current wheels.
The frame came with a shimano 24x36BB so I'm thinking someone did something to it at some point in the last 30ish years.

The last part is what keeps me going. It's fun. I'll also add gratifying, to get on a bike you've put together.

Thanks everyone for your input. It's really pointing me in the right direction.

Hmm, Italian BB shell, Shimano cartridge BB, Campy RD. Know anything else about the frame? It sounds like a good candidate for pragmatic choices.

You actually asked about the order of choosing components, not component recommendations. I'd just start looking for everything. You'll find things whenever things pop up and you need them all anyway. Start with a concept but we willing to change your mind if an attractive deal turns up. Also start with good knowledge about what works and what doesn't, like mixing a French stem and a Cinelli handlebar., or nutted vs. recessed brake mounts.

We need pics!

In that case, I’d probably start with wheels, wanting ones that are reasonably light with spacing that matches the frame (120? 126? 130?). That then leads to choices on the drivetrain, particularly friction or index, depending on that rear spacing. Then, brakes that have the right reach, last bars, stem, post, saddle.

The frame will dictate a few things:
-the rear width. If 120, you are not going to be upgrading to really modern stuff without a proper cold set widening.
-the bottom bracket shell. Not a huge limiting factor, but important when it comes to getting a crank set.
-seat post size. Again, limits the selection.
-wheel size. Easily remedied to go 700c from 27 if you use longer-reach calipers.
-calipers. nutted or recessed will make a difference in the selection available.
-shifter positioning and cable routing. early 80's may route above the bottom bracket shell with a piggy-back shifter mount. This all makes a difference, so find out and avoid surprises.

Sounds like fun, though.

Tell us or show us the frame and we're much more able to advise.

Several have mentioned wheels, and I'll break it down a little further - the rims. 700c for sure, but whether you're going tubular or clincher (or even tubeless), I'd look for wider versions of rims and run tires wider than the 18-21 (or those wide 23) tire widths many of the older rims were designed for, and what riders were riding in those days.

I started with a bare frame, and Sugino AT crank, as shown. It was originally going to be a budget first build from scratch. I found this forum a great source of what works, and got lucky with ebay and a local swap meet. I found chainrings, correct Weinmann brakes, mostly correct stem, bars and brake levers, Suntour derailleurs and bar ends. I looked on it as a blank canvas, and placed function over originality. I got the 700c clincher wheels free from a bike club friend. I did have to spread the 120 frame a little, to fit a Megarange 6 speed freewheel. Long story short, I have around $300 in parts, (not incl. wheels). With rebrazing, paint and decals I'm still over $1000 all in, but I'm loving the bike, proud of doing all the mechanical work myself, and it rides beautifully. Do the research, find out what works, decide on originality vs. function, set a budget (optional), and roll on. I wanted an Eroica bike with better gearing than my original Legnano, and the Raleigh frame just kind of "fell in my lap". Disraeli gears and bike forum are my primary research sources, as well as Sheldon. Go for it, it's probably my most rewarding cycling experience, except actually riding it! The most expensive part was paint, if yours is good, so much the better!

For me it would all depend on the frame you intend to use. As it happens I did two recent builds that both started with a bare, early eighties frame. They couldn't have come out more differently, I think.

And yes, I'm happy with both. :)

https://myalbum.com/photo/GeFK7H6uKR3L/1k0.jpg

https://myalbum.com/photo/5JVj8ALK3aGD/1k0.jpg

what is your goal.....period correct, sorta period correct or vintage frame with modern components.

if it is the modern and assuming steel you would need to cold set the rear and then the cheapest lowest hassle way to go is to get a gruppo from an english bike site like ribble or wiggle and wheels from velomine or similar

it would be cheaper to do shimano than campy.

otherswise a good source is the C&V for sale section...put up a WTB there

With an italian bb threading, I'm assuming 700c wheels? It if were me, I'd be hoping for 130 mm rear triangle spacing so I could go modern, but ifyou're saying early 80's, probably not.

If(when) building up a frame, I determine how i will use the bike and start with what I want for gearing to allow me to use the bike how I want.

For a road bike, that means a compact crank and relatively wide range cassette. If i dont have these things, the bike will be limited in its usability and im just not interested in limiting how i can use a bike within the segment its intended to be used.

If I want 50/34 crank with an 11/30 cassette, then I use a Sugino or Sakae crank from the 80s thats a 110/74 bcd triple without the granny ring and get the properly sized bottom bracket. Then Ill get the front and rear derailleur I want, and go from there. An older 600 tricolor short cage RD works on an 11/30 cassette so it can still look relatively 'traditional road'. From the gearing and drivetrain, i build up and figure out wheelset, brakes, shifters/brake levers, handlebars, and seatpost. I go for the stem near the end so I can have an idea of how long it needs to be to limit trial by error and reduce swapping the cockpit all out over and again to get the right fit.