Pedals on an antique bike
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Pedals on an antique bike
I'm rebuilding a Crescent bike from the 1890s. I've gotten the right pedal off, but the left is stuck. I'm afraid to force it because I don't know if pedals on bikes of that period were threaded the same as more recent bikes. I mean, I don't know if the left pedal has a left hand thread. Anyone have any information on this? Thanks.
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Wow, that's an interesting question. I'd like to hear what an expert has to say.
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While it's not a definitive answer, I found this snippet on wright-brothers.org:
Source: https://www.wright-brothers.org/Infor...t_Bicycles.htm
If that passage is accurate, it would seem that a pre-1900 bicycle would likely have right-hand threading on both pedals.
In 1900, the Wrights announced a "bicycle pedal that can't come unscrewed." Pedals were mounted to the crank by threaded posts. On early bicycles, both posts had standard right-hand threads. As the cyclist pedaled, the action tended to tighten one pedal and loosen the other, with the result that one pedal kept dropping off the bike. Wilbur and Orville used right-hand threads on one pedal post and left-hand threads on the other so the pedaling action tended to tighten both pedals.
If that passage is accurate, it would seem that a pre-1900 bicycle would likely have right-hand threading on both pedals.
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Taken from the "useless bike trivia" thread, the Union Cycle Co first patented left hand pedal threads in 1893 and the Wright brothers followed suit in 1900. So depending on the exact age and who manufactured the bike the left may be reverse threaded, though it's really hard to say because the bike is nearly exactly as old as reverse left pedal threading and who knows how quickly that standard was adopted.
T-mar was the one who posted about all this in the bike trivia thread so hopefully he sees this thread and can elaborate.
T-mar was the one who posted about all this in the bike trivia thread so hopefully he sees this thread and can elaborate.
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While it's not a definitive answer, I found this snippet on wright-brothers.org:
Source: Wright Bicycles
If that passage is accurate, it would seem that a pre-1900 bicycle would likely have right-hand threading on both pedals.
Source: Wright Bicycles
If that passage is accurate, it would seem that a pre-1900 bicycle would likely have right-hand threading on both pedals.
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Taken from the "useless bike trivia" thread, the Union Cycle Co first patented left hand pedal threads in 1893 and the Wright brothers followed suit in 1900. So depending on the exact age and who manufactured the bike the left may be reverse threaded, though it's really hard to say because the bike is nearly exactly as old as reverse left pedal threading and who knows how quickly that standard was adopted.
T-mar was the one who posted about all this in the bike trivia thread so hopefully he sees this thread and can elaborate.
T-mar was the one who posted about all this in the bike trivia thread so hopefully he sees this thread and can elaborate.
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First: soak the thread and spindle in PB Blaster if you haven’t already .
Second: ???
Second: ???
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With the wrench on the pedal, use a heavy rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. Don't use a metal hammer. Hit it ONCE in 1 direction, then ONCE in the other direction. Alternate back and forth with only 1 hit. Once it breaks free keep going in that direction. Do Not keep pounding on it in 1 direction, the alternating blows will break it free quicker and with less damage.
And see above, leave the PB Blaster or Kroil on it overnight or even longer.
And see above, leave the PB Blaster or Kroil on it overnight or even longer.
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My God, Vefer, it worked! Thank you. It seemed hopelessly stuck, and it took just a couple of times (in each direction, as you said) to get it loose. For the record, the left pedal has a left hand thread. (Crescent bike, described in the 1895 catalog.)
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By the way, before your post I had been using a metal hammer, tapping several times in one direction, then several in the other. The only thing that saved the threads, I guess, was that I was reluctant to hit the wrench very hard, knowing the damage I could do.
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Glad I could help. I don't why but rubber mallets or a dead blow hammer will break free bolts and nuts with less damage than a metal hammer. I learned this 45 years ago from a mechanic that was even older than me. It just works!
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