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Peugeot PX10 build suggestions

Old 01-20-18, 03:35 AM
  #1  
poggor
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Peugeot PX10 build suggestions

Hi Guys-

I have acquired a good condition px10 frameset (which i think must be late 70s).
I would like to build this up to a period appropriate spec, probably something close to what the Peugeot Michelin team was riding around the second half of the 70s.

I was wondering if any experts would be able to help me out on part suggestions. I would like the highest quality parts and cost is not a big factor.

Shifting- simplex? prestige? retrofriction levers would like to know exactly which derailleurs front and back
Brakes- mafac- which ones? racers? which levers?
Cranks- stronglight- which one?
Wheels
Hubs
Seat post
Saddle
Stems
Bars

Thanks for any insights!




george
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Old 01-20-18, 06:17 AM
  #2  
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Nothing wrong with going back with OEM parts. Here's the catalog from 1978 with your frameset:
Peugeot 1978 USA Brochure
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Old 01-20-18, 06:22 AM
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I built up my '72/3 PX-10 as a 'true to spirit' project rather than a dead to nuts time capsule:





Stronglight/Simplex drivetrain, but not the pricy SLJ.



Mafacs for sure, but humble Racers.





Normandy hubs laced to Mavic tubular rims, but not red label Luxe Competitions.



Pivo bar and stems for sure, but the bottle cage mount was improvised.



Maybe not a team bike, but I had the team jersey.....

Top
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Old 01-20-18, 06:32 AM
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@top506 rode his PX10 on the CCRT ride this past October. I nice piece of work too. Check out the pump mount on the non-DS stay.



He wore the jersey too.

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Old 01-20-18, 06:35 AM
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My 1971 PX10 is another true to spirit restoration. Definitely use the Pivo stem and handlebar. My wheelset includes Normandy hubs to 700c Mavic clincher rims. I'm using the Simplex SX 410 long cage rear derailleur and a Suntour front derailleur. Mafac Competition brakes round out the package.

Simplex front derailleurs are impossible, the failed when new and now the plastic is very brittle. I'm not a tubular tire user, I'm running contemporary Vittoria Corsa skinwall tires. They perform like tubular tires and look great on the polished alloy rims.
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Old 01-20-18, 06:53 AM
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One stock area I’d avoid is french hubs. Hard to find a used set of Normandy or Maillard hubs with good cones and replacements are not available. Leads me to only ride my 72 Normandy Gold Label hubs at events only and rebuild them right after (somehow the design sucks in dirt). Campy record is period correct. Suntour Superbe low flange are sweet as well.

Tubulars for sure - i’ve joined the Tufo fan club - cheap, bulletproof, and ride just fine, despite what you read. Although period tubular rims are getting hard to find. An afternoon with Tubasti all over the place.....Priceless!

Otherwise I’d shoot for OEM.

One of the beauties of the PX10 is that many people will remark they had one, and point out love/hate stories of various components.

Good luck

Joe
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Old 01-20-18, 07:09 AM
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My love-hate relationship with tubulars continues. I admire all of the PX-10 and other pictures with a tubular tire folded under the saddle, and I fondly recall my days in the 1970s, where I went on lots of solo and group rides on tubulars, but I also remember why I gave up tubulars when I moved to north coastal San Diego County in 1981 and discovered goat head thorns.

Those PX-10s look stunning, somehow better than my 1980 PKN-10 ever did. (I think those chrome stays make all the difference, plus the 1970s decals are better-looking than their later counterparts.) I think most of you have the restoration/modernization formula right --
1) Above all else, Stronglight cranks, but possibly/probably smaller than the stock 52-45 ringset. (I am partial to 46-38, which I use on my Capo Modell Campagnolo, and which works well with a 2-tooth progression in back.)
2) Mafac brake calipers, yes, but those handles are just too long in the reach for me to grab safely in a panic stop, so I prefer Weinmanns. (I replaced the original long-reach Modolos on my Bianchi with Shimanos, which will probably incur the wrath of Italian bike fans everywhere. )
3) Larger freewheel than the stock 14-21, possibly 6 or 7 speeds instead of the 5 speeds of the early to mid 1970s. The rear derailleur can easily handle 14-16-18-20-23-26, which works well with half-step (3-tooth drop in front) or 1.5-step (8-tooth drop in front). When I worked at a Peugeot/Nishiki dealership in the early 1970s, almost all of our PA/PR/PX-10s left the shop with 14-26 freewheels in place of the stock 14-21s.
4) A front derailleur other than the stock Delrin pushrod unit, which was the weakest link in the entire driveline.
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Old 01-20-18, 09:30 AM
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Mine is a 76

but looks very similar to yours. Started with a frame and a few components, so went in another direction. Campy derailleurs, hubs, pedals, shifters, brakes & levers. Took 2 years to find a 175mm Stronglight crank, fitted with 49/38 rings. May upset the purists, but works for me:



PX
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Old 01-20-18, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by top506 View Post



Pivo bar and stems for sure, but the bottle cage mount was improvised.
Top,
Great job on the cage mount!
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Old 01-20-18, 10:39 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by John E View Post
1) Above all else, Stronglight cranks, but possibly/probably smaller than the stock 52-45 ringset.
2) Mafac brake calipers, yes, but those handles are just too long in the reach for me to grab safely in a panic stop, so I prefer Weinmanns.
3) Larger freewheel than the stock 14-21, possibly 6 or 7 speeds instead of the 5 speeds of the early to mid 1970s.
4) A front derailleur other than the stock Delrin pushrod unit, which was the weakest link in the entire driveline.

I did most of this. 52/42 chain rings, 7 cog freewheel (both 13/28 and 13.24) and replaced the FD with a latter all-metal model.


Top
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Old 01-20-18, 10:42 AM
  #11  
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The main things you must have for it to be a PX10 are Stronglight cranks and MAFAC brakes. IMHO Ideally, they should be Stronglight 105bis and MAFAC Competitions. The rest can be somewhat improvised. If you want to be a hardcore purist, jj1091 linked to the official specs in post #2.

If you try to buy the various other parts off ebay, the cost will far exceed the total worth of the assembled bike. I admire those that do this anyway, or otherwise track down the original correct parts, but it isn't that practical. Alternatively, one could buy Campagnolo NR parts instead, which will generally be both far better in quality, less expensive, and authentic to the period. Or, substitute Frenchie parts from the same general period, even if they aren't the exact right ones. Real racing bikes got parts swapped all the time.
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Old 01-20-18, 11:13 AM
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I think I need to provide a break from all the white PX-10s.

Peugeot PX-10 by L Travers, on Flickr

I think I have seen one other in this color.

Stronglight 93 with 105bis rings
Simplex Super LJ deraillerurs
Simplex retrofriction shifters
Peugeot Trophy (Maillard 700) hubs , Ambrosio tubular rims
Universal 68 calipers and levers
Pivo bar and stem.

Parted and sold years ago. But it was a nice rider.

FWIW, there is a set of Maillard 700 36o hubs on eBay now for a reasonable price. British thread, too.
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Old 01-20-18, 11:18 AM
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[QUOTE=Salamandrine;20120775]
If you try to buy the various other parts off ebay, the cost will far exceed the total worth of the assembled bike. I admire those that do this anyway, or otherwise track down the original correct parts, but it isn't that practical. /QUOTE]

I concur with this. I bought my '71 PX-10 with a decent OEM crankset, headset, and seatpost, for $160. After finding OEM derailleurs, brake calipers, levers, bars, stem, shifters, wheelset, skewers, saddle, then bartape, cables, tires, and tubes, I'm in it for over a grand. Sure, it's all-original, but it would never sell for that amount, on average probably half that.
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Old 01-20-18, 12:14 PM
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I also kept with the spirit of the original machine but made some common sense changes according to my preferences and necessity. The Delrin plastic of the FD was cracked as it almost always is so I replaced it with an NOS Suntour 7. I also replaced the short cage Simplex Criterium with a long cage Simplex and swapped out the original tubular wheelset with a black clincher wheelset that I had on hand. I also made the Stronglight 93 crank a semi compact with 49-39 rings which is perfect for the hilly terrain. @poggor If you are interested I have extra PX10 parts that I would pass on. Just let me know.

Untitled by irishbx4th, on Flickr

Untitled by irishbx4th, on Flickr
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Old 01-20-18, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine View Post
Alternatively, one could buy Campagnolo NR parts instead, which will generally be both far better in quality, less expensive, and authentic to the period.
Campagnolo obviously made good-quality stuff. But I've see quite a few cracked and broken Record crankarms. I've never seen or even heard of a broken Stronglight 93. Even apart from that, though, I'd say yeah, anything other than a 93 on a 1970s Peugeot just looks wrong.
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Old 01-20-18, 06:15 PM
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You have to realize that they did not always get it right back then. A period spirit build with the best mix of components, (not exactly what came from the factory) from that time that works best together will be much more satisfying in the end as the bike will also perform to its best potential. Anyway, a lot of people back then modded up their bikes right after they bought them.
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Old 01-20-18, 07:18 PM
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Welcome, @poggor. You'll find that we like to talk about our Peugeots! Mine is a good example of one that was modded over the years by its original owner, who is a friend. It was his commuter - 87k miles worth.

As received from him it has the original Stronglight heasdet and Mafac Racer brakes (I ditched the levers, they were shot) and replacement Stronglight crankset. Derailleurs and wheels are different, it's been through very many iterations. Currently a Shimano 600 Tricolor rear and Suntour something or other front. Early 90's Campy low flange hubs and Mavic rims.

I thought about a restoration but knowing its history I felt it was better to use it in the same spirit myself. Plus it's way too small so I didn't want to invest that much. It rides wonderfully and I treasure it, warts and all.

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Old 01-20-18, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ascherer View Post
It rides wonderfully and I treasure it, warts and all.
Can be said about all the 531 French bikes in the barn ( Peugeot, Gitane, and Motobecane).

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Old 01-20-18, 08:00 PM
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Thanks!

Wow! I live in Australia and when I went to bed there were no replies- I get back from my morning training ride and now look at it! Thanks so much for all your suggestions and help. Awesome bikes and stories!

@top506 love the bike and especially the bottle cages. Also love your team jersey! just like the cannibal!

@Barrettscv thanks for the tips i'll avoid the plastic simplex derailleurs and consider clinchers

@jcb3 i've got a set of maillards ordered from ebay which claim to be in vgc (but not NOS)... we'll see otherwise ill consider some campys or suntours maybe

@John E thanks for the tips- i've ordered some stronglight and mafac parts as detailed below. i've gone with the standard crankset- we'll see! I can get up most of the hills in my area on a flemish compact (52/39) so we'll see how I fair. I guess for serious climbing i'll probably always go for modern bike which will be about 4kg lighter!

@vtchuck looks very nice! hopefully my turns out similar

@Salamandrine thanks for the tips- i've ordered some parts as detailed below and yes, they are quite expensive.... but still nothing compared to money spent of contemporary bike parts so i reckon its worth it!

@CV-6 wow! that is a beautiful bike. great colour. I will be trying to spec my bike similarly

@greg3rd48 nice bike! I also have a blue frame peugeot but not px10 as outlined below. really like your build. what saddle is that? also how is that bottle cage mounted?

@ascherer nice bike mate! hopefully mine will look similar- i'm not planning a full restoration as I want to keep the frame original.

OK! now to parts--- I have spent a bit of money on eBay based on your suggestions and so far I have:

Crankset- Stronglight 93 with the 105 drilled chain rings= standard chainrings (52/42)
Brakes- NOS never installed Mafac competitions with the drilled levers
Drivetrain- Simplex slj front and rear derailleurs NOS with retrofriction levers
Stem- NOS pivo with the tricolor band
Hubs- Maillard 700 in VGC- we shall see exactly how good.... hopefully ok.

BB- i was going to "cheat" and get the new velo orange cartridge style bb- should i get the 122mm spindle?
bars- haven't been able to find any pinos yet
rims-- i would like mavic i think? not sure which ones
seat post??
saddle-- oh my god- I have to admit I balked a bit at the NOS ideale brown saddle.... $600! but i guess i'll get it if it's the best?


on a side note- I also have a blue frame peugeot- not a px10 (not reynolds tubing) which I am setting up with a "modern" retro setup. the idea is that it will not make purists happy but i have the px10 to shut them up. This blue bike is being built up to be a commuter:

Shimano 7800 ten speed shifters, derailleurs, cassette, brakes
Shimano 7400 crankset and bb (i found a NOS french thread BB go figure)
Weinmann retro look 700c wheelset
brooks saddle
and..... a garmin? ha!
it'll still look pretty retro at a glance- all chrome and the 7400 crank looks decidedly retro. but it'll have modern 10speed shifting.
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Old 01-20-18, 08:12 PM
  #20  
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Go with your first instinct and build at as in the catalogue. The catalogue shows metal front and rear derailleurs so no problem there (my 1969 delrin front derailleur worked fine last year for 4500 miles). Mine had been crashed, straightened, and rattle canned so I took it down to bare metal and all is original but wheels, saddle and consumables. One day, I'll get a white Frameset and move my parts to it and get some real, PX-10 wheels.

Edit. Nice. I was a little late but you are doing a fine job of picking parts.
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Old 01-20-18, 08:37 PM
  #21  
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other frame

here is a pic of the other frame i was talking about
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Old 01-20-18, 09:35 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine View Post
The main things you must have for it to be a PX10 are Stronglight cranks and MAFAC brakes. IMHO Ideally, they should be Stronglight 105bis and MAFAC Competitions. The rest can be somewhat improvised. If you want to be a hardcore purist, jj1091 linked to the official specs in post #2.

If you try to buy the various other parts off ebay, the cost will far exceed the total worth of the assembled bike. I admire those that do this anyway, or otherwise track down the original correct parts, but it isn't that practical. Alternatively, one could buy Campagnolo NR parts instead, which will generally be both far better in quality, less expensive, and authentic to the period. Or, substitute Frenchie parts from the same general period, even if they aren't the exact right ones. Real racing bikes got parts swapped all the time.
My first experience with MAFAC Racers was both recent, and a revelation. Great stopping power.

Can't weigh in on the other French parts, other than to note that I find it hard to imagine there's much of a performance difference anywhere else. imo, it comes down to authenticity, price and appearance (presuming you care about any of those). I've logged quite a number of miles on my '72 Fuji Finest, which, aside from slightly less steep geometry, seems to have borrowed quite freely from the PX-10. Extrapolating from my experience, there are plenty of viable period options - most of which should have the ability to satisfy you.
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Old 01-21-18, 07:07 AM
  #23  
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Re spindle length - standard on early 70s PX10s was 118.

Re saddle - I suggest you contact member @rhm. He re-leathers saddles and can do custom embossments (he did an ADGA for my PX) - for well less than buying a NOS. There is a risk buying an old NOS saddle, in that it could be dried out and fail once you ride it.

Also member @jonwvara makes triplizers and 38t chainrings for the elusive 122bcd stronglight cranks. I converted my PX into a triple for the big hills in CA with and am very pleased with it.
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Old 01-21-18, 07:12 AM
  #24  
top506
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Originally Posted by jcb3 View Post

Also member @jonwvara makes triplizers and 38t chainrings for the elusive 122bcd stronglight cranks. I converted my PX into a triple for the big hills in CA with and am very pleased with it.
Yeah, me too.



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Old 01-21-18, 07:28 AM
  #25  
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How you intend to use the bike is critical to component selection. If the goal is to create a time capsule, than try to duplicate the factory equipment as much as possible. However, the cost involved will be greater than the value of the completed bike by a factor of two. The bike will also be less than perfectly reliable for regular use.

I built my PX10 from a partially stripped frameset. It lacked wheels and drivetrain components but had brakes & brake levers, stem & handlebar, saddle & seatpost.

My goal was to use the bike for Eroica. This event allows some upgrades but encourages period correct restorations. I also use a Red Clover Triplitizer to improve the gear range. These work great and the granny gear is almost invisible on a Stronglight crankset, see the post above from Top506, mine is similar. I installed a 46 outer chainring and a 28 inner chainring with the 42 middle chainring that Red Clover provides, see: https://www.redclovercomponents.com/s..._42_Teeth.html

Another great resource is Velo Orange. They are one of the few resources for French bicycle parts, including headsets and bottom brackets. I'm using these items on my build with no issues. See: https://velo-orange.com

If you decide to use tubular tires, I'll donate a set of mechanically and cosmetically good condition Super Champion Competition tubular rims. These need some significant cleaning and polishing, but should work as-new with a little elbow grease. These rims are perfectly correct for a PX10. I would lace these to Campagnolo high-flange hubs for a reliable and period correct build.
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Last edited by Barrettscv; 01-22-18 at 08:29 AM.
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