Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Removal of Dura Ace FH-7400 freehub

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Removal of Dura Ace FH-7400 freehub

Old 02-04-18, 02:45 PM
  #1  
johnlink
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 262

Bikes: 1989 Centurion Ironman

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Removal of Dura Ace FH-7400 freehub

What tool is needed to remove a Dura Ace FH-7400 freehub? Does it fit into the four notches (two of which are visible in the picture) or into the eight notches further into the hub?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_4112.jpg (237.4 KB, 285 views)
johnlink is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 03:14 PM
  #2  
johnlink
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 262

Bikes: 1989 Centurion Ironman

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I learned that what's required is the TL-FH10 removal tool. I just bought a brand new one, in the bag, for $74.

Who says time travel is not possible?
Attached Images
johnlink is offline  
Likes For johnlink:
Old 02-04-18, 03:23 PM
  #3  
francophile 
PM me your cotters
 
francophile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ATL
Posts: 3,090
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 847 Post(s)
Liked 254 Times in 196 Posts
I was surprised Bicycle Research didn't have something.

For those of more meager means, this may also help, although it's not the same tool as the one above? Seems this goes into the upper two/four notches while the tool pictured goes into the lower notches:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302099316296

Then there's always RJ the bike guy's innovation...

francophile is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 03:29 PM
  #4  
thumpism 
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,114

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Trek 510 city build, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1761 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 496 Times in 355 Posts
My packaging is not as pretty, but it's good to know what they can go for.
TL-FH10_1.JPG

TL-FH10_2.JPG
thumpism is offline  
Likes For thumpism:
Old 02-04-18, 03:32 PM
  #5  
johnlink
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 262

Bikes: 1989 Centurion Ironman

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by francophile View Post
I was surprised Bicycle Research didn't have something.
What's that?

For those of more meager means, this may also help, although it's not the same tool as the one above? Seems this goes into the upper two/four notches while the tool pictured goes into the lower notches:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302099316296

Then there's always RJ the bike guy's innovation...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qBk5pePGRg
RJ the Bike Guy always seems to have a solution.

Last edited by johnlink; 02-04-18 at 03:36 PM.
johnlink is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 03:35 PM
  #6  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 24,731
Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11768 Post(s)
Liked 1,065 Times in 828 Posts
Originally Posted by francophile View Post
I was surprised Bicycle Research didn't have something.

For those of more meager means, this may also help, although it's not the same tool as the one above? Seems this goes into the upper two/four notches while the tool pictured goes into the lower notches:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302099316296

Then there's always RJ the bike guy's innovation...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qBk5pePGRg
That should disassemble the freehub, but probably won't remove the retention bolt which appears to need some kind of a specialized torx style wrench.

One might try some larger Torx wrenches just to see if they fit, but someone probably chose to make it harder than necessary. Is that 9 point or 10 point?
CliffordK is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 03:44 PM
  #7  
johnlink
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 262

Bikes: 1989 Centurion Ironman

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
That should disassemble the freehub, but probably won't remove the retention bolt which appears to need some kind of a specialized torx style wrench.
The TL-FH10 tool will remove the freehub.

One might try some larger Torx wrenches just to see if they fit, but someone probably chose to make it harder than necessary. Is that 9 point or 10 point?
It's eight.
johnlink is offline  
Likes For johnlink:
Old 02-04-18, 03:54 PM
  #8  
Bianchigirll 
Bianchi Goddess
 
Bianchigirll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 26,956

Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.

Mentioned: 136 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1781 Post(s)
Liked 586 Times in 358 Posts
Originally Posted by johnlink View Post
What's that?
Bicycle Research is a company that used to make a wide variety of specialty bike tools, like freewheel removers, bottom bracket tools. It used to be if a manufacturer made something odd Bicycle Research would have a tool to work on it. I think this freehub body mounting system was too short lived for anyone but shipmano to make tools for it.
__________________
Bianchis '90 Proto, '90 Campione del Fausto Giamondi Specialisma Italiano Mundo, '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '86 Volpe, '97 Ti Megatube, '93 Reparto Corse SBX

Others but still loved; '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape SLX Bertoni "Speckled Trout"
Bianchigirll is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 04:02 PM
  #9  
johnlink
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 262

Bikes: 1989 Centurion Ironman

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism View Post
My packaging is not as pretty, but it's good to know what they can go for.
Here's another one on eBay, this one with excellent pictures.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TL-FH10-Fre...SsLqnuRIQsy8tQ
johnlink is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 04:04 PM
  #10  
johnlink
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 262

Bikes: 1989 Centurion Ironman

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
Bicycle Research is a company that used to make a wide variety of specialty bike tools, like freewheel removers, bottom bracket tools. It used to be if a manufacturer made something odd Bicycle Research would have a tool to work on it. I think this freehub body mounting system was too short lived for anyone but shipmano to make tools for it.
Is this it? BicycleTool.com
johnlink is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 04:06 PM
  #11  
Bianchigirll 
Bianchi Goddess
 
Bianchigirll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 26,956

Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.

Mentioned: 136 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1781 Post(s)
Liked 586 Times in 358 Posts
Yes I think that is them now.
__________________
Bianchis '90 Proto, '90 Campione del Fausto Giamondi Specialisma Italiano Mundo, '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '86 Volpe, '97 Ti Megatube, '93 Reparto Corse SBX

Others but still loved; '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape SLX Bertoni "Speckled Trout"
Bianchigirll is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 04:09 PM
  #12  
francophile 
PM me your cotters
 
francophile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ATL
Posts: 3,090
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 847 Post(s)
Liked 254 Times in 196 Posts
Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
Bicycle Research is a company that used to make a wide variety of specialty bike tools, like freewheel removers, bottom bracket tools. It used to be if a manufacturer made something odd Bicycle Research would have a tool to work on it. I think this freehub body mounting system was too short lived for anyone but shipmano to make tools for it.
What BG ^ said. Hand-machined out of California, Bay Area if I recall correctly. They have some excellent remakes of Shimano tools no longer around, especially the old freewheel (not necessarily freehub) pullers

Link: BicycleTool.com
francophile is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 04:41 PM
  #13  
T-Mar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 20,111
Mentioned: 527 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3407 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 805 Times in 627 Posts
The tool with two prongs is designed to adjust/remove the bearing cup from the freehub. It does not remove the freehub body. Using it to remove the freehub body is analogous to using a pin tool on a freewheel dust shield/outer cone in an attempt to remove a freewheel from a hub. You're just going to end up with a lot of very small bearings escaping and rolling all over the place.

Last edited by T-Mar; 02-04-18 at 04:56 PM. Reason: corrected notches to prongs -D'oh!
T-Mar is offline  
Likes For T-Mar:
Old 02-04-18, 05:00 PM
  #14  
johnlink
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 262

Bikes: 1989 Centurion Ironman

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Here are two videos from RJ the Bike Guy dealing with freehubs.


johnlink is offline  
Likes For johnlink:
Old 02-04-18, 05:28 PM
  #15  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 24,731
Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11768 Post(s)
Liked 1,065 Times in 828 Posts
Well, remind me to avoid those DA freehubs.

Can the mounting bolt be replaced with standard Shimano mounting bolts?
CliffordK is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 05:48 PM
  #16  
Ghrumpy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 788
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 379 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by johnlink View Post
What tool is needed to remove a Dura Ace FH-7400 freehub? Does it fit into the four notches (two of which are visible in the picture) or into the eight notches further into the hub?
If I may ask, why do you want to remove the freehub in the first place?
Ghrumpy is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 05:56 PM
  #17  
Ghrumpy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 788
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 379 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
Well, remind me to avoid those DA freehubs.
Cool. More for me. Those things are pretty bombproof (which is why I asked the OP why he wants to remove it.)

Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
Can the mounting bolt be replaced with standard Shimano mounting bolts?
Nope. That's the only downside to them. They aren't future-proof because you can't retrofit a later freehub body. Well, you could put a 7s D-A freehub on a 6s D-A shell. But that's as far as it went.
That's how Dura-Ace rolled back then. Incompatible with everything but itself.
Ghrumpy is offline  
Likes For Ghrumpy:
Old 02-04-18, 06:30 PM
  #18  
johnlink
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 262

Bikes: 1989 Centurion Ironman

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Ghrumpy View Post
If I may ask, why do you want to remove the freehub in the first place?
I thought that my chain was skipping, but I eventually determined that it was my freehub that was skipping and not the chain. So I want to remove, clean, lube, and replace the freehub as shown in one of RJ the Bike Guy's video above.
johnlink is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 06:56 PM
  #19  
Ex Pres 
#39
 
Ex Pres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Mountain Brook, AL
Posts: 7,250
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 406 Post(s)
Liked 48 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by johnlink View Post
I thought that my chain was skipping, but I eventually determined that it was my freehub that was skipping and not the chain. So I want to remove, clean, lube, and replace the freehub as shown in one of RJ the Bike Guy's video above.


there is a hack as an alternative to the correct tool. It was posted here a while ago. It involves a square bar of the right size and a file. I don't recall the exact details, though, but a search may yield the answer.
Ex Pres is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 07:10 PM
  #20  
Kontact
Senior Member
 
Kontact's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,595
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2146 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Dura Ace has always been incredibly undersupported by Shimano. Try finding a replacement 103mm Shimano BB for a 7410 crank or parts to rebuild a "serviceable" 7700 Octalink BB. They treat the group as a test bed, not a pro group.
Kontact is offline  
Likes For Kontact:
Old 02-04-18, 07:28 PM
  #21  
Ghrumpy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 788
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 379 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by johnlink View Post
I thought that my chain was skipping, but I eventually determined that it was my freehub that was skipping and not the chain. So I want to remove, clean, lube, and replace the freehub as shown in one of RJ the Bike Guy's video above.
You might just have to do it in situ. Spray some Triflow or equivalent into the gap between the bearing race and the freehub shell and spin it around. Flip it over and let it drain. Repeat a few times, then see if that helps. If you can hear a grinding instead of the pawls just clicking into place, the freehub might be toast.

Don't worry about greasing the inside of the freehub. I recommend you not do it at all. You could practically run it dry, in fact. The only time the freehub turns is when it has no load on it, so it's not like the hub bearings. A light machine oil is all it needs. Same for all freewheels, by the way.

This only applies to pawl-type mechanisms. Some freehubs use different mechanisms, like drive rings or plates. Some share the space with the hub bearings, and in those cases the above does not apply. Follow manufacturers' specs for those types of freehubs.
Ghrumpy is offline  
Likes For Ghrumpy:
Old 02-04-18, 07:40 PM
  #22  
johnlink
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 262

Bikes: 1989 Centurion Ironman

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Ghrumpy View Post
You might just have to do it in situ.
I won't have to do so, because I bought the TL-FH10 removal tool on eBay today (see the pictures in post #2 above). On the other hand, it would have been good to do what you suggest below before I put the bike back together.

Spray some Triflow or equivalent into the gap between the bearing race and the freehub shell and spin it around. Flip it over and let it drain. Repeat a few times, then see if that helps. If you can hear a grinding instead of the pawls just clicking into place, the freehub might be toast.

Don't worry about greasing the inside of the freehub. I recommend you not do it at all. You could practically run it dry, in fact. The only time the freehub turns is when it has no load on it, so it's not like the hub bearings. A light machine oil is all it needs. Same for all freewheels, by the way.

This only applies to pawl-type mechanisms. Some freehubs use different mechanisms, like drive rings or plates. Some share the space with the hub bearings, and in those cases the above does not apply. Follow manufacturers' specs for those types of freehubs.
johnlink is offline  
Old 02-04-18, 07:51 PM
  #23  
Ghrumpy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 788
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 379 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by johnlink View Post
I won't have to do so, because I bought the TL-FH10 removal tool on eBay today (see the pictures in post #2 above). On the other hand, it would have been good to do what you suggest below before I put the bike back together.
Cool, let us know how it goes.
Ghrumpy is offline  
Old 02-05-18, 04:32 PM
  #24  
BluesDaddy
I got 99 projects
 
BluesDaddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Hills of Central NH
Posts: 1,603
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
This is why I stop at Ultegra. Dura Ace is too frequently incompatible. Most Shimano freehub bodies can be removed with a simple 10mm Allen.
BluesDaddy is offline  
Old 02-05-18, 08:48 PM
  #25  
rccardr 
aka: Dr. Cannondale
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,013

Bikes: Lots. Just...lots.

Mentioned: 172 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1344 Post(s)
Liked 437 Times in 238 Posts
No need to stop at Ultegra, although it is lovely in its own right. Just avoid 740X shifting components. Everything else is fully compatible with all Shimano SIS amd indexing components below ten speeds.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
rccardr is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.