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ISO and for trade thread part 5

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ISO and for trade thread part 5

Old 06-13-21, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
ISO: One adjuster barrel from a Raleigh soldered-end brake cable. Or a wrecked cable with one attached.



Apologies to @clubman for lifting his pic.

-Kurt
I might have a few:

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Old 06-13-21, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
I might have a few:
I see a few good ones - PM sent.

-Kurt
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Old 06-14-21, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
I might have a few:

Just to be clear, these aren't the unobtainium variety meant to fit the 4 mm hole on the rounded brake bridge, are they? I've never even seen one of those.
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Old 06-14-21, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
Just to be clear, these aren't the unobtainium variety meant to fit the 4 mm hole on the rounded brake bridge, are they? I've never even seen one of those.
Nope. These are huge versions of the same style of adjuster you'd see on a modern sidepull, just a Raleigh-specific version.

-Kurt
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Old 06-14-21, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
Just to be clear, these aren't the unobtainium variety meant to fit the 4 mm hole on the rounded brake bridge, are they? I've never even seen one of those.
FYI, if you're looking for those particular barrel adjusters, the adjusters from Simplex "Prestige" shift levers will work:
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Old 06-14-21, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
Just to be clear, these aren't the unobtainium variety meant to fit the 4 mm hole on the rounded brake bridge, are they? I've never even seen one of those.
You mean these?



These were lurking at the bottom of that drawer. The ones on the right are the Raleigh rear brake stops. On the left are Simplex gear stops as JT points out. They fit the brake bridge hole but take some careful trimming of cable housing to get a good fit.
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Old 06-14-21, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
You mean these?



These were lurking at the bottom of that drawer. The ones on the right are the Raleigh rear brake stops. On the left are Simplex gear stops as JT points out. They fit the brake bridge hole but take some careful trimming of cable housing to get a good fit.
Yeah! Those!
I'm using the Simplex adjuster hack at the moment with a step down ferrule to hold the brake housing. Because I opted for the VO braided cable, it's quite stiff and doesn't adjust easily, though it does work which is what matters?
the biggest complaint is that my fingers aren't dainty enough for that adjuster. The Raleigh adjusters look more useful, are they on offer?
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Old 06-15-21, 02:21 AM
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ISO

'85 Schwinn Cimarron fork for 23" frame.




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Old 06-15-21, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
Yeah! Those!
I'm using the Simplex adjuster hack at the moment with a step down ferrule to hold the brake housing. Because I opted for the VO braided cable, it's quite stiff and doesn't adjust easily, though it does work which is what matters?
the biggest complaint is that my fingers aren't dainty enough for that adjuster. The Raleigh adjusters look more useful, are they on offer?
PM me.
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Old 06-15-21, 08:54 AM
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I just realized the clutch spring cap for the Sturmey AW I was working on went missing. Can't find another.

LMK if anyone has one to spare. It's the stupid (at the moment) steel ring that caps the clutch spring, as shown:







-Kurt
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Old 06-15-21, 10:54 AM
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ISO Campagnolo Professional tool case liner.

The padded one with Campagnolo logo that fits into the lid of the case.

I know, its a long shot..
I have a case without the liner.
Would also be interested in a handle for same.
rusty
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Old 06-16-21, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
I just realized the clutch spring cap for the Sturmey AW I was working on went missing. Can't find another.

LMK if anyone has one to spare. It's the stupid (at the moment) steel ring that caps the clutch spring, as shown:
does it really need to be a cap as shown, or is the cap shape really just to facilitate doing lots of these per day at the SA factory? IOW could you just a properly sized steel washer? IIRC, you need a flat piece at the end of the spring to protect it from the part that bears against it. ID to fit over the axle, OD just right to prevent dragging on anything else. If, fact, when assembled that end of the spring does not ever move does it? The other end does. Hmmmm?

However, it's been quite some time since I exploded a SA IGH.
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Old 06-16-21, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Prowler
does it really need to be a cap as shown, or is the cap shape really just to facilitate doing lots of these per day at the SA factory? IOW could you just a properly sized steel washer? IIRC, you need a flat piece at the end of the spring to protect it from the part that bears against it. ID to fit over the axle, OD just right to prevent dragging on anything else. If, fact, when assembled that end of the spring does not ever move does it? The other end does. Hmmmm?

However, it's been quite some time since I exploded a SA IGH.
I thought about that. I theorize the cup shape of it is to keep it as close to a right angle against the axle as possible, preventing it from binding on the threads. Even the SRF-3 uses this design to this day, so there must be something about it that works

All things considered, I'd rather do it right on this particular project.

-Kurt
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Old 06-16-21, 06:40 AM
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ISO Speedplay Frog cleats - new or used

Looking for a pair of Speedplay Frog cleats to get me through to when Wahoo (now owner of Speedplay) has their supply chain sorted out.

My old cleats are worn out and the LBS that sells Speedplay told me it will be several months before replacement cleats are available. They seem to be sold out on-line too. It would be unfortunate if Wahoo stopped offering replacement cleats for the discontinued Speedplay pedals. I can understand discontinuing a product, but discontinuing the consumable required to use the product is absurd. Too many companies talk big about being environmentally friendly and then make decisions that make products obsolete.

Thanks,
James
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Old 06-16-21, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
I thought about that. I theorize the cup shape of it is to keep it as close to a right angle against the axle as possible, preventing it from binding on the threads. Even the SRF-3 uses this design to this day, so there must be something about it that works

All things considered, I'd rather do it right on this particular project.

-Kurt
I might have one. I'll check.
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Old 06-16-21, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
I might have one. I'll check.
Thank you!

-Kurt
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Old 06-16-21, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
Thank you!
PM sent, but what I have is not the right size. Shown with an axle nut for scale.
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Old 06-16-21, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
PM sent, but what I have is not the right size. Shown with an axle nut for scale.
Bearing dustcap, unfortunately!

Thanks for checking.

-Kurt
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Old 06-16-21, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
Bearing dustcap, unfortunately!

Thanks for checking.

-Kurt
Kurt, I have a spare spring cap. PM incoming on the other items.
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Old 06-16-21, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Kurt, I have a spare spring cap. PM incoming on the other items.
10-4. Will await your PM.

-Kurt
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Old 06-17-21, 05:18 PM
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ISO: Lyotard model 460 right hand pedal, French thread or...

I'm rebuilding a Lyotard 460 pedal. The right pedal body needs replaced, but my French thread spindle is good to go. Soooo... I'm in search of a pedal body, or a pedal with French threads. Let me know what you've got.

m
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Old 06-17-21, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AZORCH
I'm rebuilding a Lyotard 460 pedal. The right pedal body needs replaced, but my French thread spindle is good to go. Soooo... I'm in search of a pedal body, or a pedal with French threads. Let me know what you've got.

m
Have a look at this thread, if you haven't already:

Lyotard Pedal Danger
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Old 06-17-21, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by oneclick
Have a look at this thread, if you haven't already:

Lyotard Pedal Danger
Thanks, and yes I remember when that warning was posted. Much appreciated.
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Old 06-18-21, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by AZORCH
Thanks, and yes I remember when that warning was posted. Much appreciated.
If you want to keep the same pedal style have a look for Atom pedals, they made more than one model with a one-piece alloy body and wide flat plates like that. Two of them have steel plates, they could be brazed at the corners and they'd be quite stiff.

As for the Berthet pedals not cracking, yes the bearings are closer together and that helps, but the big difference may be that the body is one-piece (and steel). Their own idiosyncracy is the outer alloy end-plates wear against the threads at the end of the body, and when they've done this enough they start rocking and clicking. Fortunately the alloy is soft and forgiving enough that they can be tightened up with a ball-peen hammer.
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Old 06-18-21, 09:07 PM
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ISO direct mount short derailleur

Looking for something vintage-y looking. Square-ish, plated are ideal. FWIW it would be going on my ~1960 Legnano that originally had a Campy Sport if that helps you gauge the mojo Iím after. Thx all!
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