wesmamyke

I have a ton of ISIS and octalink stuff if you can't find anything. Probably have a 108mm road ISIS. Almost certainly have a 113mm. Send me PM to remind me to dig up the bin of bottom brackets.

JacobLee 

Weird, the post above has an "originally posted" box attributed to me, but that's not mine. I did respond to the post, but just thought I'd mention that that original post is not mine.

curbtender

Looks like Z edited his post and deleted a portion of the quote leaving it as script.

wesmamyke

I was reading the text and responding to the OP about the search for ISIS stuff. Didn't really pay attention to the top part and the name.

cudak888 

ISO a pair of Campagnolo 1010B (short horizontal) dropouts. For a friend, not for me.

-Kurt

ehcoplex 

Looking for a couple chainrings to complete some builds....

122bcd 47t, Stronglight, Nervar, TA, whatever...
144bcd 46t, Campy, Campy-ish copy, etc.
110bcd 45t, whatever...

Thx!

[edit] PS- looking for 'road' rings, not track.
And some possible trade material-
Campy 144bcd 52T
Stronglight 122bcd 52t
Shimano 110bcd 52t
Sakae 'Oval Tech' 110/74 bcd 52t, 42t, 32t

mrv 

ISO for a 7spd UniGlide Cassette - for much less than what they are asking of eekBay. . . . or ThirdHand LostScrews.
- I'm up for suggestions on upgrading, like buying a new cassette body and going with HyperGlide. Which is what I think is going to happen. (man, this DuraAce hubset is costing me. i am too much of a cheapskate for proper C&V)

mountaindave 

You mention a Dura Ace hub. Specifically, what hub do you have? Is it an early7400 with the smaller diameter locking sprocket and obligate 2nd position sprocket, that changes things. Not every UG cassette will work.

If it’s a standard ring, you’ve probably already heard about Sheldon’s suggestion of taking a file/dremel tool to make HG sprockets fit UG hubs. Just save the threaded locking sprocket.

rccardr 

You may be better off looking for individual cassette cogs. Could be less expensive in the long run. I have a handful of new ones but not in a series to make up a correct cassette.
If you're looking to fill a DA 7 speed freehub, you likely already know that the first position cog has a smaller internal threaded diameter than other UG cogs. Finding that could be difficult.
8 speed 7403 hubs (which will also take 9 & 10 speed cassettes) that take HG cogs and a lock ring are out there, but they are expensive.
Additionally, 740X freehubs 1) attach to the hub in a completely different way than any other Shimano freehub, and 2) require a special tool that is hard to find and costs as much as a correct freehub. There are home-made removers posted here by previous forum members, would be worth searching if you are going in that direction.
Ultimately, my suggestion to folks who are interested in 740X groups is to go all in and buy the tools and spares, or not at all. DA 7700 is every bit as nice cosmetically and is compatible with pretty much everything else Shimano up thru 10 speed. Alternatively, you can use 7700 hubs (which are HG) for any 6-7-8-9-10 speed cassette and which will work just fine with 740X.

mountaindave 

The Doctor is in, and he is correct!

xiaoman1 

Hi,
I am looking for a functional non aesthetically (rough) pleasing Galli rear/front derailleur....color not important.
Please PM me if you have one that you want to let go of.

Model I am looking for color and cosmetics not important
​​​​​​​Best, Ben

mrv 

mountaindave
rccardr
I have a 7370 hub.
so far I gave not investigated what tool I need to get the cassette body removed.
I just realized last night how difficult sourcing UG is going to be.

wanna buy a hub set with new balls & grease!?

I’ll read up at Sheldon’s site and get a bitter understanding of what I’ve got myself into.

https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...110&AbsPos=383

delbiker1 

mrv I had a good chuckle from the "BITTER understanding" statement. I can sure relate and will file for future use.

VintageSteelEU

7400 is a lovely group of components I was thinking about completing at some point, but the compatibility issues make the prices of the components not reasonable to me personally. I decided that 600EX is just as good to me and looks nice enough and left Dura-Ace 7400 to people with deeper pockets and more determination to spend the money. Iin the end decided against 600EX hubs because of availability of Uniglide cassettes at reasonable prices (and I'm talking just 600EX, not Dura-Ace cassettes). Usually I'm using wheelset with Exage 500EX hubs, which are a bit later (early 90's as opposed to mid-80's of 600EX), but support both Uniglide and Hyperglide. At the moment I have another wheelset on (Ultegra 6400 late 80's hubs laced to Exal XR2 rims, again, Unglide & Hyperglide). Though I understand freehub bodies can be replaced on some hubs. So if I ever get 600EX hubs, it will be after doing some research and making sure I can swap the freehub body for one accepting both standards. Perhaps something similar can be done with Dura-Ace hubs you have? Knowing bicycle parts manufacturers, probably not, but it's a question worth asking. And then there remains the problem of Dura Ace compatibility until late 90's I think, with non-standard cassettes with different spacing, non-standard pull ratio etc. I draw a line: if I can't make the derailleurs and shifters work reliably with cheap 7 speed Hyperglide cassette or freewheel (which is all I need, don't want to ever have more than 7 sprockets) without spending hours modifyling various bits, I'll just pass.
From what I've seen in another thread, you have a set of Dura-Ace AX hubs from the early 80's. That's going to be even more painful than 7400. If you're going for the whole drivetrain / gearing, even more so. Good luck with that, you're going to need it That will be a very exotic bicycle though!

Hondo6

I hate to say this, @mrv - but if you're looking to replace your 7370 freehub with a 7-speed Hyperglide or HG/UG freehub, that may not be possible.

Here's a link to the EV for that hub:

https://si.shimano.com/en/manual/sea...odel=FH-7370-R

If you look at the EV, the hub body shows a short hollow tube/bushing protruding from the hub body where the freehub female splines are located. Nowhere does the EV show a mounting bolt that would thread into the hub body to secure the freehub.

I think - but I have to say that I'm not completely positive - that the presence of that tube/bushing and absence of any mounting bolt means this hub has one of the 1st generation Uniglide freehubs. These first generation UG freehubs were apparently held on to the hub body by a combination of press fit, the axle, and the axle bearings/locknuts. You have to replace these with another freehub with a similar interface. And while standard 34.6mm threaded Uniglide hubs of this type were made (5- and 6-speed, I think), I don't believe any UG/HG versions were ever made.

I will shortly have the tool (more precisely, two copies of the tool) used to remove and replace these freehubs. One may join the group called the "Bike Forums C&V Traveling Toolburies" at some point in the future. But removing the existing freehub won't be much help if you don't have a suitable replacement.

Best strategy here might be to get a 7-speed HG cassette, disassemble same (saving all the cogs and spacers), and file down the wide spline on the 6 largest cogs. Then obtain two UG outer cogs of the suitable type for your hub (the second for a spare; dunno if that one uses 32mm or 34.6mm threads for the outer cog) and run with those sprockets on your existing hub.

Maybe someone who's dealt with this issue in the past can help out here?

shoota 

Is this the right one?

rccardr 

Looks to me like a large hole first cog. Ask the seller to measure the ID on the 12 tooth.

shoota 

I am the seller 🤣
ID is 33.7mm

rccardr 

Ok, so not DA, which requires a smaller ID first cog. The rest will fit, tho.
Did check my cog stash and have a complete NOS large hole 6 speed cassette of 13-15-17-19-21-24. Not DA, but new.

mrv 

rccardr I'll message you about your NOS 6spd. Looking at SheldonBrown's cassette crib sheet, I think the overall width might be an issue.
shoota - I'll message you: Do you have the spacers for 7 speed? Looks like 1/3 of a Hand - Lost Screw has the thread on cogs (13t and 14t) for about eBays price.

Thanks everyone else for your comments. BikeForums keeps proving to be a deep well of good helpful info!
A couple other comments: - why did I scoop up this hubset: the rear spacing on my TREK420 is 126mm. I've got a 600 Arabesque group on the bike (less the crankset & headset...). So I thought the hubs would compliment everything pretty easily, and free up the wheelset on the bike for something else.
Ans I've got a Dura Ace crankset I am planning to install - so it'd be nearly all SHIMANO. I'll get there eventually, where ever it is I'm going.

USAZorro

Here's the odd request of the week. Building up a 1970-ish Carlton Corsa and come to learn, that it likely came with a 25.48 Sturmey Archer seat pin. I have a 25.4, but it just gets swallowed. If anyone happens to have one that's available, I'd rather do that than do the e-Bay thing from the UK.

Cheers,

Z

Mad Honk 

Z,
I have an SR Laprade that measures 26.4 and has some oxidized markings on it. I can use the 3M Scotchbrite rough wheel to shave it down by a mm and then give it a satin finish. I would suggest that it get a light coat of clear to keep oxidizing down with the satin finish, but either way it would work. Length is seven inches. Lemme know, Smiles, MH 812-336-3283

VintageSteelEU

What's the diameter you need? Not sure what I have at the moment as I was doing a clearance some time ago. I think I have NOS SR Laprade in 26.8, might have some steel ones with separate saddle clamp. Might have some other aluminium ones, but would have to check. Shipping would be from the UK.

USAZorro

I appreciate the help offers. What I am looking for is Twenty-five point four eight mm in diameter. I see a few for sale on eBay UK, but thought I would try here first. Apparently, only Sturmey Archer made them, and they seem to have been used in a handful of British-made models - including the said Carlton Corsa (which is probably the inspiration for the Raleigh Grand Prix). Worst case, I'll either shim a 25.4 or spend a bit of quality time sanding down a 25.6. Unmolested, neither of these sizes are quite right for the seat tube.

Thanks,

Z

clubman 

Brass seat post shims were popular at the time.