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ISO and for trade thread part 5

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ISO and for trade thread part 5

Old 02-24-23, 02:52 PM
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Cyclone MKii GT tiny tiny tab thingy...

A Suntour Cyclone GT MKii rear derailleur is missing the teensy tiny little tab that goes in the split bolt for the cage pivot. Without it, the bolt is either too loose to keep from further loosening, or too tight to allow the cage to pivot.. I don't believe I have the eyesight or dexterity to try to fashion one with a dremel. Anyone got an old, busted up Cyclone the might give one of these tabs up? Or an idea of an alternative? Locktite, maybe......?

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Old 02-24-23, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
A Suntour Cyclone GT MKii rear derailleur is missing the teensy tiny little tab that goes in the split bolt for the cage pivot.
Hey, @echoplex I used to have a Mk II with a busted spring. (They rust out.) I may have sent it off to someone a few years ago. It's been a long time. If I still have it and you still need it I'll send it to you. Let me check first before you start celebrating.
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Old 02-24-23, 03:26 PM
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Looking for short Campy crank arms! A long-time cycling friend, actually an ex-boss with whom I have maintained a closer friendship, wrote to me that he needs a shorter crank arm. He wrote:

I'm riding a 1998 or 1999 Trek 5000 with Campy running gear. The
crankset is (I think) 1999 Campy Record 9-speed.
He has short-ish legs which are, in his words, well beyond their warranty (as are mine). His cranks are 175. So he asked me if there is any functional substitute, or if Campy even made 165s back then.

It strikes me that any crank would do as long as the chainrings aren't too wide for the chain and the spacing can be accommodated by the FD ( which presumably is indexing) and the offset is suitable. So many if's.

If any of you know of or have such a crank, that would be awesome! We can work out a deal!
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Old 02-24-23, 03:31 PM
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@ehcoplex

Got an extra, old 1/8" screwdriver around? Cut a 1/4 inch off the end and it should make a decent substitute.

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Old 02-24-23, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist
@ehcoplex

Got an extra, old 1/8" screwdriver around? Cut a 1/4 inch off the end and it should make a decent substitute.
Put the tip (just the tip) in your vice and proceed to amputate said tip with your grinder and cutoff wheel.
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Old 02-24-23, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by hazetguy
ISO / Wanted / Needed
Pair of Suntour Superbe brake pad holders and the guides.
Condition of pads is irrelevant, as they are going to be replaced anyway.
Will also consider an entire orphan caliper with holders if that's how you prefer to sell.
Shipping to NC.
Thanks
What pads are you going to use? It looks like I will have Suntour pads to replace sometime next week, so wondering if anyone knows the specs? Are these 36mm or 40mm? I'm looking at Fibrax pads as a replacement, they have X-pattern rounded ones, but they seem to come in both sizes.
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Old 02-24-23, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
What pads are you going to use? It looks like I will have Suntour pads to replace sometime next week, so wondering if anyone knows the specs? Are these 36mm or 40mm? I'm looking at Fibrax pads as a replacement, they have X-pattern rounded ones, but they seem to come in both sizes.
I used these. Perfect match for my old Suntour Superbe brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Sun...283076&sr=8-57
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Old 02-24-23, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
What pads are you going to use? It looks like I will have Suntour pads to replace sometime next week, so wondering if anyone knows the specs? Are these 36mm or 40mm? I'm looking at Fibrax pads as a replacement, they have X-pattern rounded ones, but they seem to come in both sizes.
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Old 02-24-23, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Contact Mad Honk.
Well, went to KoolStop website and they are actually quite good and give all the measurements. So apparently the ones they have as Superbe brake pads replacement are 36.4mm long. The ones I was looking at, with X pattern, are probably Weinmann standard. There's a tiny difference in measurements, so probably best to avoid. But I completely forgot that actually I could just check manufacturer's website or contact them. Which, of course, is the obvious option
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Old 02-24-23, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist
@ehcoplex

Got an extra, old 1/8" screwdriver around? Cut a 1/4 inch off the end and it should make a decent substitute.

does it matter if it doesn't have the tiny 'wings' at the bottom? My assumption (which absolutely could be wrong..) was that the 'wings' are what stop the nut from tightening to the point of binding the pivot... Love the way the Cyclone shifts, but wow this seems like an iffy design decision (the tab, not the hack!).
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Old 02-24-23, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmuller
Hey, @echoplex I used to have a Mk II with a busted spring. (They rust out.) I may have sent it off to someone a few years ago. It's been a long time. If I still have it and you still need it I'll send it to you. Let me check first before you start celebrating.
Cool, let me know!
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Old 02-24-23, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
does it matter if it doesn't have the tiny 'wings' at the bottom? My assumption (which absolutely could be wrong..) was that the 'wings' are what stop the nut from tightening to the point of binding the pivot... Love the way the Cyclone shifts, but wow this seems like an iffy design decision (the tab, not the hack!).
Well the hack suggested is just some spit balling, so the jury is out on it.

I think the main purpose of the tab is to have something above the spring after its put in the slot, to keep the nut from bending in the two halves of the slotted bolt.
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Old 02-25-23, 05:41 AM
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^^^^^^^ FWIW: I have that RD on my Fuji TS III and it also lacked that wee tiny “wedge” when I got it. I overhauled the RD and could not figure out what the wedge was for, given how the other parts went together and held everything in place. I did wonder about dirt getting inside the housing so fashioned a rubber plug for the hole. I rode that bike a lot for a couple of years without issue. The RD operated flawlessly. Last year I found a trashed Cyclone and salvaged the wedge then installed it on the Fuji just because……..

I’m not convinced it’s needed but it cost Suntour a pile to design, manufacture, stock and install the bitty things so it must have a purpose. But I would not worry about riding without it. YMMV.
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Old 02-25-23, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Prowler
^^^^^^^ FWIW: I have that RD on my Fuji TS III and it also lacked that wee tiny “wedge” when I got it. I overhauled the RD and could not figure out what the wedge was for, given how the other parts went together and held everything in place. I did wonder about dirt getting inside the housing so fashioned a rubber plug for the hole. I rode that bike a lot for a couple of years without issue. The RD operated flawlessly. Last year I found a trashed Cyclone and salvaged the wedge then installed it on the Fuji just because……..

I’m not convinced it’s needed but it cost Suntour a pile to design, manufacture, stock and install the bitty things so it must have a purpose. But I would not worry about riding without it. YMMV.
Hmm, I think you were lucky. Initially I thought maybe I can get away without it, but I've been riding the bike with the bit missing and checking the pivot nut after every ride and it loosens up enough that I'm sure it'd eventually fall off (with obvious disastrous result). If I tighten it enough so that it doesn't self-loosen it doesn't pivot freely... I'm going to give the screw-driver tip hack a try for now.
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Old 02-25-23, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
Hmm, I think you were lucky. Initially I thought maybe I can get away without it, but I've been riding the bike with the bit missing and checking the pivot nut after every ride and it loosens up enough that I'm sure it'd eventually fall off (with obvious disastrous result). If I tighten it enough so that it doesn't self-loosen it doesn't pivot freely... I'm going to give the screw-driver tip hack a try for now.
This sounds like a possible application for using LocTite(?)...

I first took one apart in the 70's, thought that the piece was just to keep the bolt from squishing together myself after first saying WTH?
Would have been around the same time that I detroyed a Simplex rear derailer by ignoring the mounting bolt on the back side of the dropout and prying out the plastic plug before removing it with a big Allen key.
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Old 02-26-23, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
A Suntour Cyclone GT MKii rear derailleur is missing the teensy tiny little tab that goes in the split bolt for the cage pivot. Without it, the bolt is either too loose to keep from further loosening, or too tight to allow the cage to pivot.. I don't believe I have the eyesight or dexterity to try to fashion one with a dremel.
Check your pm.
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Old 02-27-23, 04:24 PM
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A long shot but here goes - Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30 853 frame in an XXL. This is the long discontinued touring bike frame, not the newer mountain bike. Have Dura-Ace 7700 Road Hubset + cashola for swap. Gotta be an xxl (6'4" rider)
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Old 03-03-23, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by oneclick
To match this (170mm):


Is this what you are looking for?

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Old 03-03-23, 03:59 PM
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For trade (or possibly sale): Front wheel, working GH6 hub, Raleigh Pattern rim. Wheel runs true and has no dents, spokes are reasonably tight. I'd call it a serviceable wheel. Some surface rust on hub and rim, but could be dolled up with rubbing compound and aluminum foil treatment. GC cloth rim strip.

I'm looking for a 36 hole GH6 hub, optionally built into a Twenty rim. It need not be cosmetically great, but I'd like it to have minimal rust.


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Old 03-03-23, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Pompiere
Is this what you are looking for?
Yes, exactly.
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Old 03-04-23, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CO_Hoya
I’ve got a Miami Vice Ironman (Tange 1) with a 64cm CTT seat tube in the shed, if that would be of interest. May be on the small side for you.

It’s broken down into a frameset hanging up and complete groupset (Shimano 105) in a box somewhere. Condition is pretty good, as I recall.
Realize I'm reviving a message from long ago, but any chance you've still got that frame?
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Old 03-05-23, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by baroo
Realize I'm reviving a message from long ago, but any chance you've still got that frame?
Sorry, I ended up selling that off locally that year as a complete bike.
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Old 03-06-23, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by CO_Hoya
Sorry, I ended up selling that off locally that year as a complete bike.
no problem --- the search continues! (as does my quest to get to 10 posts)
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Old 03-06-23, 06:36 PM
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I have a pair of Fiamme Red label tubular rims (36H). One has a couple dents. I would like to find a replacement. (This is for my low budget Automoto build and will be mated to some FB hubs.) The labels look like this one nicked from Velobase:



I've got stuff to trade. Interested in a pair of Wolber anodized Arc en Ciel rims, Sugino crank (165 or 171), or ...? I can probably dredge up more trading material.
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Old 03-07-23, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by smontanaro
I have a pair of Fiamme Red label tubular rims (36H). One has a couple dents. I would like to find a replacement.
Replacement secured. Thanks obrentharris.
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