ISO and for trade thread part 5
05-08-23, 09:26 AM
#5826
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(Still) looking for Super-Maxy left crankarm
Had a lead on one but it's turned out to be a nogo, so I am still after a non-drive-sidearm to match the niceish triple what would suit a particular project....
05-08-23, 09:40 AM
#5827
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In case you don't find a nice vintage one, I've been very happy using these the last five years or so:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175249444991
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175249444991
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05-08-23, 10:00 AM
#5828
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05-08-23, 10:10 AM
#5829
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"36-24-36" might be a "winning hand," but it's almost useless in a rear cluster.
05-08-23, 10:18 AM
#5830
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05-08-23, 10:19 AM
#5831
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05-08-23, 10:31 AM
#5832
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05-08-23, 10:55 AM
#5833
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Perhaps I've gotten used to some cassettes and also some freewheels that have cutouts - and consequently weigh a good bit less.
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05-08-23, 12:27 PM
#5834
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
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I think that the newer Shimano freewheels might be the lightest ones in this day and age, the body is pared away and some of the cogs are pinned (so with a much larger central cutout).
Maybe silver paint can save their looks? I've seen it done and the paint seems to make minimal contact with the chain except at the teeth.
I've found spray paint hard to remove from a freewheel for what that's worth.
The E-bike industry has has resurrected freewheel development, some are even 10-speed now! Many hub motors still use freewheels and solid axles (with perhaps the non-drive side of the axle made hollow for the power wire).
I bought the Sunrace 11-36(?)T 10s freewheel, and was going to narrow it by removing the 11t and shortening the threaded (for a lockring) body using a grinder.
But the thing 1) weighed a ton, 2) positioned the big cog a bit too far from the spokes, and 3) oddly had the freewheel tighten/bottom onto the hubshell shoulder against a plastic sealing ring that deformed and caused drag immediately. So I sent it back. Mine also had a rare spacing error between a couple of it's cogs!
I did communicate with Sunrace, who offered as "an exception" to replace it (even though it was considered by them to have been sold out of their controlled market), but I ultimately simply returned it to the Ebay seller.
Maybe silver paint can save their looks? I've seen it done and the paint seems to make minimal contact with the chain except at the teeth.
I've found spray paint hard to remove from a freewheel for what that's worth.
The E-bike industry has has resurrected freewheel development, some are even 10-speed now! Many hub motors still use freewheels and solid axles (with perhaps the non-drive side of the axle made hollow for the power wire).
I bought the Sunrace 11-36(?)T 10s freewheel, and was going to narrow it by removing the 11t and shortening the threaded (for a lockring) body using a grinder.
But the thing 1) weighed a ton, 2) positioned the big cog a bit too far from the spokes, and 3) oddly had the freewheel tighten/bottom onto the hubshell shoulder against a plastic sealing ring that deformed and caused drag immediately. So I sent it back. Mine also had a rare spacing error between a couple of it's cogs!
I did communicate with Sunrace, who offered as "an exception" to replace it (even though it was considered by them to have been sold out of their controlled market), but I ultimately simply returned it to the Ebay seller.
Last edited by dddd; 05-08-23 at 12:44 PM.
05-08-23, 04:54 PM
#5835
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05-09-23, 05:25 PM
#5837
señor miembro
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I took my new Sunrace 13-28t 7-speed to the usps, where the clerk said it was 1 lb 0.2 oz (459 grams).
I recently acquired a tri-color rear hub/free hub. It feels pretty heavy, reminding me that when I compare the two different technologies to always include both rear hubs as well.
05-09-23, 05:53 PM
#5838
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Cross posting these links from the "Are You Looking for . . . . " thread here in case anyone is looking for (1) a Bicycle Research CT-1; (2) what appears to be a 13-27T 6S Shimano Uniglide Cassette in apparently excellent shape; or (3) a Puch-pantographed quill stem with 22.0mm insert and 25.4mm clamp. Prices on all 3 seem pretty decent.
eBay / CraigsList finds - "Are you looking for one of these!?" Part II
eBay / CraigsList finds - "Are you looking for one of these!?" Part II
No connection to the vendors other than purchasing from 2 of them in the past. But similar items seem to be things of interest to C&V fans.
eBay / CraigsList finds - "Are you looking for one of these!?" Part II
eBay / CraigsList finds - "Are you looking for one of these!?" Part II
No connection to the vendors other than purchasing from 2 of them in the past. But similar items seem to be things of interest to C&V fans.
05-10-23, 05:11 PM
#5839
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I just had to replace the seatpost in my daily rainy day commute bicycle because of this exact reason. I thought it was perfectly fine, but looks like it feels much better with the saddle just 2cm higher.
05-10-23, 05:16 PM
#5840
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05-10-23, 05:39 PM
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The saddle was changed as well, from RegaleEvo (more flat) to Concor Supercorsa (higher rails). The seatpost was changed from Stronglight Aero to Sakae Ringyo Laprade C5 full lenght, which is slightly longer. So the extra height is a combination of these two changes. There was also a change of pedals, from Lyotard 460D to MKS Sylvan (old version), not sure if that changed foot position much though. Would have to measure. I guess if it was late 70's or early 80's I would be riding taller bicycle frames (I ride 57.5cm or thereabouts, the newest bike is 59cm, I believe) with shorter seatposts.
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05-10-23, 08:04 PM
#5842
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The saddle was changed as well, from RegaleEvo (more flat) to Concor Supercorsa (higher rails). The seatpost was changed from Stronglight Aero to Sakae Ringyo Laprade C5 full lenght, which is slightly longer. So the extra height is a combination of these two changes. There was also a change of pedals, from Lyotard 460D to MKS Sylvan (old version), not sure if that changed foot position much though. Would have to measure. I guess if it was late 70's or early 80's I would be riding taller bicycle frames (I ride 57.5cm or thereabouts, the newest bike is 59cm, I believe) with shorter seatposts.
05-11-23, 08:40 AM
#5843
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ISO: Shimano 8 speed bar end shifters SL-BS64.
The ones on my bike are beat up.
Must be in good cosmetic and working (index and friction) condition.
Please be willing to send or post pics.
There are several on eBay, but I'd prefer to deal with people here first.
Prefer trading at this point, but will buy outright.
Thanks.
The ones on my bike are beat up.
Must be in good cosmetic and working (index and friction) condition.
Please be willing to send or post pics.
There are several on eBay, but I'd prefer to deal with people here first.
Prefer trading at this point, but will buy outright.
Thanks.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
05-11-23, 10:07 AM
#5844
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ISO: Shimano 8 speed bar end shifters SL-BS64.
The ones on my bike are beat up.
Must be in good cosmetic and working (index and friction) condition.
Please be willing to send or post pics.
There are several on eBay, but I'd prefer to deal with people here first.
Prefer trading at this point, but will buy outright.
Thanks.
The ones on my bike are beat up.
Must be in good cosmetic and working (index and friction) condition.
Please be willing to send or post pics.
There are several on eBay, but I'd prefer to deal with people here first.
Prefer trading at this point, but will buy outright.
Thanks.
cheers!
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05-11-23, 11:26 AM
#5845
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Yes. I measure whether the saddle is high enough for me as I always did: by having one leg slightly relaxed at the knee and foot on the pedal with crank arm downwards whilst the other foot is touching the ground (just). And it was generally OK untill I started riding the new bicycle and with this one I fiddled a bit more (because I could extend the seat post more, whilst on the other bicycle it was already maxed out). As a result my daily commuter bike felt less comfortable now, hence replacing the seat post with one that can be pulled out a bit more. If the frame was the same height as the new bike's, the old seatpost would have been sitting a bit deeper in the seat tube, so I would be able to address the comfort issue by simply pulling it out a bit more without a replacement.
05-12-23, 02:27 PM
#5846
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My kingdom for 2cm on many of my bikes.
05-13-23, 03:49 PM
#5847
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Most likely it was the case of: "the seatpost can't be pulled out any more, it must be alright then", followed by riding a bicycle where it could be pulled out more for a much better fit and then: "hold on, something's not right here" after getting back on my daily commuter bike. It was more or less OK and all is fine now, though the new bicycle is definitely nicer. I did convince myself now that perhaps modern seatposts are not a bad idea on a vintage bicycle. The vintage ones seem much shorter in general. With the new bicycle I'm now using a lowly ETC Microadjust which came in 400mm length (and I've cut it down to 300, I think) and whilst it could look nicer, I definitely do not have to worry about minimum insert mark. I wouldn't mind some nice looking vintage seatpost, but there are not that many out there that would be longer than 25cm. Though then again, with modern seatpost the problem is that they tend to be available in wider diameters than I need (at least the nice modern ones).
05-15-23, 11:34 AM
#5848
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ISO: Shimano 8 speed bar end shifters SL-BS64.
The ones on my bike are beat up.
Must be in good cosmetic and working (index and friction) condition.
Please be willing to send or post pics.
There are several on eBay, but I'd prefer to deal with people here first.
Prefer trading at this point, but will buy outright.
Thanks.
The ones on my bike are beat up.
Must be in good cosmetic and working (index and friction) condition.
Please be willing to send or post pics.
There are several on eBay, but I'd prefer to deal with people here first.
Prefer trading at this point, but will buy outright.
Thanks.
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I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
05-17-23, 10:24 AM
#5849
The dropped
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