Chicago Al 

I'm fixing up a 1987 Schwinn Cimarron for myself, and would like to try out a 165mm crankset to see if it's any more comfortable for my stubby-legged self. Of course it might not be!
The ideal would be the 165mm version of the stock cranks, this setup:
https://www.velobase.com/ViewCompone...115&AbsPos=367
Will use round chainrings though.

oneclick 

I can cobble the rest together from french bb bits but would take a complete set...

Mad Honk 

ISO: A new home for this bike:

Raleigh Racing USA with Suntour components. Mostly complete needs brake calipers, and I have a set to toss in if you need them.

Tall person bike. measured from center of BB. Frame is half chrome and half painted white.

Cost of shipping from Bloomington, IN. I will tear it apart as needed if you only want the F&F. PM me or gimme a call 812-336-3283. I want the space and don't want to enrage the War Department over too many bikes around here. Smiles, MH

Schweinhund

Top 2 are shimano @450G 14/28 Bottom Zinc is shimano @14/28 bottom black is a new bike pull sunrace@13/28 the two lower ones are 470G If you gotta have it I probably have a suntour as well.
The sunrace is AU the rest of them are used but not much. Just been in the bottom of a box for a few years.
Email me if interested fishyfool@yahoo.com

Schweinhund

have a suntour too. sunrace is best condition.

unworthy1

too tall for me but that's a nice one and a GREAT deal for somebody...so grab this opportunity, Somebody!
But...how weird this has stem shifters!

USAZorro

sending PM

jimmuller 

I haven't been looking for bike parts for a long time. Now I have a need...

My neighbor's son has been riding Dad's bike for some time. It's a Raleigh Somethingorother, maybe an International. Anyway, he wrote to me that he needs a part. On his commute home today he broke a part of the Huret Jubilee RD. (I wrote to him that the Jubilee was a scarce and valuable item!) The part he needs appears to be the stop plate that sets the position w.r.t. the chainstay. He said it was Part 2333. He found something similar on eBay but not the same part number, https://www.ebay.com/itm/303864464820. So he asked me to ask you kind folks. I told him I would ask, and said maybe any other Huret stop plate would work.

Would any of you have this piece, or know of a replacement? If worse comes to worse I suppose one can be fabricated.

Thanks!

SurferRosa

obrentharris 

Brent

Schweinhund

It looks awful dang close.

unworthy1

wasn't that part ^ the subject of another (years ago) thread that somebody (with machinist skills) was considering making "cottage-industry" re-pops of them?

msl109

Hi folks - looking for an old Huret, Suntour, or Shimano RD that will work with a Huret dropout on a '74 Motobecane. Doesn't have to be really pretty, Modern Campy standard stuff doesn't fit. I understand some Shimano Titlists work and some Suntour VGTs. Cranes as well, but not lookingvto invest a ton in this. I have MANY derailleurs from the 70s through 90s to trade / trade +/- $. Or just outright buy.
I'd also be interested in a hanger that would fit the dropout and let me use any derailleur. I must have tossed them all or left them in a parts box I gave away long ago.
Or... an actual adaptor that would let me use the Campy standard on this dropout...
Thanks to anyone who can help out here.

nlerner

I'm in need of a 1" threaded fork for a small bike. Head tube measures 10.5 cm, so likely I need something with a 12-13 cm steerer. English threaded, preferably. Not fussy about eyelets or rake; as long as it's reasonably straight or easily straightened (I have tools). TIA!

curbtender

Wheel size and brake configuration.

nlerner

Likely 700c and caliper brake.

unworthy1

I might have a fork for this, it will be Belgian/Ital if I find it...can you guess that make?
BTW it will will be a few days until I can look, but pretty sure it's still there, waiting for a new home...

nlerner

Thanks, but looks like @scarlson will help me out with some steerer trimming and threading with a fork I have in hand.

unworthy1

no problem...but can @scarlson add threads to a steerer? If so I need to put him in my Rolodex!

scarlson 

Yes indeed I can!

unworthy1

That's a great skill (and IMO harder to find than ever!)
I'm making a note of this in my BF memory book...

scarlson 

It isn't so hard! All you need is a die and a die holder. And you don't need a bike-specific die either. You can buy one on ebay that will do the job: 1" x 24tpi. The die and die handle together cost maybe $35. They are cheap but they'll do the job. The die is the simple, non-slotted type, so you can't adjust fit. For me, this was fine. It is also possible to cut a slot in the die using an angle grinder, to have it expand a little bit so you can get a little tighter fit if you so desire. I have done this with dies in the past.

I also recommend leaving some original threads on the fork so you can easily start the die. Thread however far you want, then cut the steerer off. Getting any large-sized die started, even the bicycle-specific ones with pilot guides, is hard.

But anyways, the point of what I'm saying is that you, too, could have this ability, probably for about the price of shipping the fork out to have it done!

unworthy1

^ right about getting a die started, even on existing threads, being tricky.
I once had a shop ruin a steerer/fork by cross-threading and then cutting botched mis-aligned threads, this done by a novice "mechanic" with a bike-specific die.
That shop is long gone.
Been turned down by nearly every shop since then (most have heard the horror stories and don't want to risk it) one even said "we don't want to ruin our die"
Saving it for what, a special occasion?
Based on this I only had threads cut since with a lathe by an experienced lathe operator...I was hoping you were one of them: the few, the brave...

scarlson 

Oh sure, I can do it on a lathe. I have done it on a lathe. I just don't *like* to do it on a lathe. It's hard because the fork legs are super long and they twirl around and I think that's dangerous. Also can be hard to find the true center, if the brazing under the crown is rough. Also don't like it because even if you are both daring and skilled, backing the tool off before releasing the half nuts is iffy. If you don't back the tool off, and are threading down the fork, you will get a groove in the metal wherever you stop it. I don't like the stress riser it creates. And if you are machining up the fork, you can't start the tool off the material. You have to plunge the tool in by feel, as you are making your passes. There are way too many ways for it to go badly. I got the die for that reason. I figure if I have the skill to use the lathe, I have the skill to use the die correctly. Sometimes you can even put the thing in the lathe and then, with the power off/gears in neutral, start the die, using the lathe as an alignment tool. Easy enough. A piloted die holder is ideal of course, and could be made by machining - more easily than making threads on a steerer in the lathe! And then you'd have it forever. Basically get an aluminum round stock bigger in diameter than the die and maybe 4" long. Make a bore in one end the size of the die, and a bore in the other end that is 1" in diameter for the steerer. Then it would be impossible to misalign. Drill and tap holes in the sides for the set screws and long handle rods. Would be stronger than the lousy pot metal die holder I bought. I may do this if I ever have time.

scrandalla

ISO Ofmega Master Crankset and BB. Am I reaching for the moon?