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ISO and for trade thread part 5

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ISO and for trade thread part 5

Old 03-19-19, 07:38 PM
  #1126  
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jeirvine - saw your ad, just trying to empty my stash a bit. I am going to try listing some stuff tonight on the sale page. Wife is tapping her foot and I think I will have to decide what moves out....
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Old 03-20-19, 05:18 PM
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ISO

Gold rims, non aero, 32 or 36 hole, good from 10 ft +? or so. Maybe complete wheels?

Last edited by merziac; 03-21-19 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 03-20-19, 06:35 PM
  #1128  
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Originally Posted by merziac
Gold rims, non aero, 32 or 36 hole, good from 10 ft +? or so. Maybe complete wheels?
Uhh, real c&v, or clincher?
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Old 03-20-19, 09:22 PM
  #1129  
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ISO Sachs New Success 8 speed RD, long cage

I know, it's a unicorn. I have a full bin of non-aero brake levers (Diacompe, Shimano, Weinmann) some Shimano 5 and 6 speed UG hubs of various levels (there's an XT and a 105 in there,) Biopace rings galore, 26.0 Ritchey Pro ergo drops in super huge 46mm size, Shimano 105 7 speed era hubs, Exage Sport brakes with a nice polished finish, a few random Shimano downtube levers, 9 speed bar ends, 7 speed bar ends, 8 speed bar ends, 10 speed bar ends, a couple 7 speed cassettes, a Nishiki ONP frameset (wait, WHAT?) a ridiculous pile of old MTB pedals that I should probably just throw away, Jandd Expedition racks, front and rear, sandblasted bare and ready to tour. Also slightly bent Nitto bullhorns and small drop bars in decent shape, a weird Nitto riser stem that has a hole for a brake cable to pass through (completely...) some random Suntour Cyclone parts from an old Fuji The Finest, Altenburger dual pivot brakes, Tourney centerpulls, Diacompe, Weinmann, and some generic centerpulls as well. I have a couple XT headsets, a 730 and the one with the oversize bearings (735?) Let me know if you can use any of this garbage, I missed out on the last NOS RD on ebay and I'm willing to part with a mass of alloy, steel and dirt of equal value.
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Old 03-20-19, 09:23 PM
  #1130  
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Originally Posted by Ex Pres


Uhh, real c&v, or clincher?
Doh, sorry, my bad. Either or both, wimpy clincher preferred.
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Old 03-21-19, 07:09 AM
  #1131  
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Originally Posted by Taxi Rob
Rear New Success 8s.
You may already be aware, but don't try to use one of the ARIS 6/7s RD with 8 cogs. It will index perfectly,no problem there, but getting enough travel across all the cogs will be an issue. I've done it, had to even pull the c-clip off the hanger bolt to gain the extra mm's required - even with the limit screw backed out all the way. I've since moved that one back to a 7s setup, and have an 8s (short-cage, sorry) Sachs doing the job.

.
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Old 03-21-19, 07:20 AM
  #1132  
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trial and error

Originally Posted by Ex Pres
You may already be aware, but don't try to use one of the ARIS 6/7s RD with 8 cogs. It will index perfectly,no problem there, but getting enough travel across all the cogs will be an issue. I've done it, had to even pull the c-clip off the hanger bolt to gain the extra mm's required - even with the limit screw backed out all the way. I've since moved that one back to a 7s setup, and have an 8s (short-cage, sorry) Sachs doing the job.

.
Yes, I found out the hard way and came up against the travel issue. Since the Sachs 8 speed spacing results in a cassette that is 1.4mm wider than Shimano, hitting the largest cog with a 7 speed derailleur is dodgy. I REALLY love the ergos, but I'm afraid the other necessary bits are going to break the bank. My last ditch effort is a mid cage 105 8 speed RD, gonna try that one out later today.
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Old 03-21-19, 10:31 PM
  #1133  
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ISO: 36 hole Mavic GL330 tubular rim, the generation with the red with gold lettering stickers. Brake track wear is fine, as long as there's life left in it.
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Old 03-22-19, 07:08 AM
  #1134  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
ISO - Mid-late '80s Shimano 105 or 600 road levers, prefer aero

Have - Campag Centaur(?) bottom bracket, Italian thread, 24x36, 68x111mm. Full disclosure - bought this at a thrift sale, it was in a box for a higher-end BB of the same size, so presumably removed for an upgrade. Clearly been installed/removed, but it's buttery smooth. From the tapers, it's hard to tell if crank arms were ever attached.

Options - I may consider a different model of levers, as long as they're aero and hoods are in good shape. I also have other parts, but mostly MTB.

(Clockwise to tighten on drive side means Italian thread, right
Thatís gonna be Italian 70x111. Righty tighty both sides. You canít really measure the distance between the cups as the 68 or 70 measurement is width of the BB shell on the bike. Donít want you to disappoint someone expecting an English thread BB.
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Old 03-22-19, 07:42 AM
  #1135  
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Originally Posted by Spaghetti Legs


Thatís gonna be Italian 70x111. Righty tighty both sides. You canít really measure the distance between the cups as the 68 or 70 measurement is width of the BB shell on the bike. Donít want you to disappoint someone expecting an English thread BB.
I never mentioned English thread. So there is no such thing as an Italian threaded shell that's 68mm wide?
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Old 03-22-19, 08:31 AM
  #1136  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
I never mentioned English thread. So there is no such thing as an Italian threaded shell that's 68mm wide?
There probably are, since weíre talking 2-3% margin of error in measurement, but the cups on that BB wonít fit in a true 68 mm English thread BB shell. If you shop for a bottom bracket and pick 68x111, youíll get a 1.37 x 24 component. The picture of course makes it clear what you have but some people who donít use these parts routinely might not understand and I was just trying to help clarify for you.

There are cases with old bikes where someone started with a 68 mm English thread shell that got stripped and they had it re-tapped to an Italian thread standard.
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Old 03-22-19, 04:39 PM
  #1137  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
So there is no such thing as an Italian threaded shell that's 68mm wide?
Usually by mistake. I had a 96 ELOS Cramerotti with such a shell. The story is the mechanic (kid) was talking on the phone, as he was facing the drive side of the bike and took too much off. They had to add a 2 mm spacer to get the BB and crank out far enough for the Chorus derailleur to be in range. I got a decent discount on it and it worked fine but it was annoying just to know what the clown had done.
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Old 03-22-19, 04:59 PM
  #1138  
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Originally Posted by clubman
Usually by mistake. I had a 96 ELOS Cramerotti with such a shell. The story is the mechanic (kid) was talking on the phone, as he was facing the drive side of the bike and took too much off. They had to add a 2 mm spacer to get the BB and crank out far enough for the Chorus derailleur to be in range. I got a decent discount on it and it worked fine but it was annoying just to know what the clown had done.
I've got a '73 DeRosa with a 68mm wide Italian threaded bottom bracket. It came to me that way. It was a repaint, so my guess was that the 2mm were cut off to remove rust. Could have been anything though. A couple of spacers fixed the problem.
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Old 03-22-19, 05:19 PM
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I've seen a few Fuji's that had 70mm ISO threaded bottom brackets as well. Before the Shimano empire took over things seemed to have varied quite a bit more than today.
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Old 03-22-19, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Taxi Rob
Yes, I found out the hard way and came up against the travel issue. Since the Sachs 8 speed spacing results in a cassette that is 1.4mm wider than Shimano, hitting the largest cog with a 7 speed derailleur is dodgy. I REALLY love the ergos, but I'm afraid the other necessary bits are going to break the bank. My last ditch effort is a mid cage 105 8 speed RD, gonna try that one out later today.
If my theories about Sachs components are correct, the 105 RD won't work for you. I think the movement ratio of the 8-speed Sachs rear derailleurs matched the 8-speed Campy rear derailleurs. This isn't only based on the fact that the Campy ergos are a back-dated clone of the Sachs ergos. I have a long cage Sachs RD that I'm using with 10-speed Campy shifters to index a 10-speed Shimano cassette. It works perfectly, which is the result that would be predicted if the Sachs RD matched the "old" Campy ratio. I know that sounds like pretty sketchy evidence, and you should probably treat it as such. But I think it's true.

So, if my theories are correct, you could use a pre-2001 Campy Racing T rear derailleur. A Racing T RD isn't necessarily cheap, but they're at least a lot more common than the Sachs.
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Old 03-22-19, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaghetti Legs
There probably are, since weíre talking 2-3% margin of error in measurement, but the cups on that BB wonít fit in a true 68 mm English thread BB shell. If you shop for a bottom bracket and pick 68x111, youíll get a 1.37 x 24 component. The picture of course makes it clear what you have but some people who donít use these parts routinely might not understand and I was just trying to help clarify for you.

There are cases with old bikes where someone started with a 68 mm English thread shell that got stripped and they had it re-tapped to an Italian thread standard.
Once again, I never mentioned English thread. Mentioning English thread afterward does not "clarify", it confuses. What distinguishes English from Italian thread is the fact that the drive side is clockwise threaded, correct? There may be a _correlation_ between thread type and shell width/spacing, but shell width/spacing is coincidental. So let's just say it's Italian thread, and let any potential buyer/trader infer the shell width/spacing, since it's the thread type that distinguishes.
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Old 03-22-19, 07:56 PM
  #1142  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
What distinguishes English from Italian thread is the fact that the drive side is clockwise threaded, correct?
That, and Italian thread bottom bracket cups are 36mm in diameter and have a 55į thread angle, while English thread bottom bracket cups are 34.8mm in diameter and have a 60į thread angle.

There may be a _correlation_ between thread type and shell width/spacing, but shell width/spacing is coincidental. So let's just say it's Italian thread, and let any potential buyer/trader infer the shell width/spacing, since it's the thread type that distinguishes.
The correlation between shell width and thread spec is quite loose. There are more than a few reasons why an Italian thread shell may be other than 70mm wide, and more than a few instances of English thread shells being other than 68mm wide. My position is that shell width should be ignored when determining thread spec.
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Old 03-23-19, 12:06 AM
  #1143  
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[MENTION=20548]JohnDThompson[/MENTION]

The correlation between shell width and thread spec is quite loose. There are more than a few reasons why an Italian thread shell may be other than 70mm wide, and more than a few instances of English thread shells being other than 68mm wide. My position is that shell width should be ignored when determining thread spec.[/QUOTE]

Completely agree with this, many scenario's where it ended up not following the norm, standard or pattern, necessity being the mother of invention, all things are possible.
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Old 03-23-19, 07:29 AM
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Can we just say that it's Italian threaded, and leave it at that? My sincere apologies for any other misunderstanding I might have caused with any gaffe related to width. I just want someone who needs it to have this BB...... (and wouldn't mind some brake levers my '85 600 is waiting for...)
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Old 03-23-19, 01:18 PM
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ISO SunTour Superbe Seatpost 26.6mm



I am searching for a 26.6 Superbe seatpost for my Cimarron. I have the original, but it has two problems - it is deeply scored, and one bolt and nut have been replaced (not even close to the original). I have searched paybay and found some that were too large, and all were about the price (or way more) than I paid for the bike.

I could sand it down and maybe end with a 26.5mm post, but I would still have the fugly hardware on one side.
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Old 03-24-19, 08:54 AM
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ISO: BF member or place that can paint the flutes black on my super record crankset

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Old 03-24-19, 10:10 AM
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[MENTION=391445]malcala622[/MENTION] I'm sure you can do it. A bit of Testor's black paint, a fine brush and a rag dampened with mineral spirits to clean up the margins should do the trick.

Neat crank fixing bolt. What is that?
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Old 03-24-19, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by smontanaro
[MENTION=391445]malcala622[/MENTION] I'm sure you can do it. A bit of Testor's black paint, a fine brush and a rag dampened with mineral spirits to clean up the margins should do the trick.

Neat crank fixing bolt. What is that?
Id much prefer to pay someone experienced to do it.

The bolts came in a bag of odd and ends bike parts. They were replaced because the caps didnt sit flush with the cranks.
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Old 03-24-19, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by malcala622
Id much prefer to pay someone experienced to do it.

The bolts came in a bag of odd and ends bike parts. They were replaced because the caps didnt sit flush with the cranks.
You've got nothing to lose, easily undone.If it doesn't turn out good, wipe off before completely dry with thinner, solvent, brake or carb clean and try again. Like a wet/dry erase board.
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Old 03-24-19, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
So, if my theories are correct, you could use a pre-2001 Campy Racing T rear derailleur. A Racing T RD isn't necessarily cheap, but they're at least a lot more common than the Sachs.
That seems to be the way I'm heading. I am bummed out that I have to change derailleurs, but I have a Nervar crank too, so I guess more Euro and less Asia wouldn't look out of place
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