So I just posted my finished Centurion
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So I just posted my finished Centurion
Some may remember about a whole week ago I posted about finishing my Centurion Facet with finally adding the Carbon Fork and Threadless headset.
So what does finishing your favorite bike mean... It means you get on it and get a few rides in on Zwift.... It apparently also means that while going for a Zwift ride, you decide to take your shirt off and toss it on the chair next to you... Of course when doing so it gets stuck on your hand and falls straight down onto your rear wheel and guts sucked into your rear cog and rips your 105 derailleur off. On top of a slight bend it also means it destroys the threads on your aluminum in frame derailleur hanger.
So I have a m10-1 helicoil kit on the way, thinking this is going to be the best solution... Anyone with any input and suggestions on my situation or plan to repair please let me know.
So what does finishing your favorite bike mean... It means you get on it and get a few rides in on Zwift.... It apparently also means that while going for a Zwift ride, you decide to take your shirt off and toss it on the chair next to you... Of course when doing so it gets stuck on your hand and falls straight down onto your rear wheel and guts sucked into your rear cog and rips your 105 derailleur off. On top of a slight bend it also means it destroys the threads on your aluminum in frame derailleur hanger.
So I have a m10-1 helicoil kit on the way, thinking this is going to be the best solution... Anyone with any input and suggestions on my situation or plan to repair please let me know.
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OH Man, that's a bummer! Hope you get this sorted out ok.
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#3
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Ghah. 2 seconds of stupid you can never take back. I once had a bag of costumes in a plastic bag hanging on my bars. MY attention wavered for a second as i looked back at my buddy. Bag in wheel. Face in pavement. Ripped the skin off my chin in a big slab down to my adams apple, cracked my jaw, blood everywhere. No insurance so i just patched it up no stitches. etc etc.
I was eating only tofu soup for 2 weeks.
Lucky the bike was fine
I was eating only tofu soup for 2 weeks.
Lucky the bike was fine
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Riding on the actual road is much safer. Seriously, a friend of mine had a similar issue when a plastic bag got caught in his chain, and took out the rear derailleur, while he was riding on an actual road, too. Stuff happens.
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I had something similar happen on my Cannondale. There is a very small part you can get that mounts on the back of the hanger and it had steel threads that replace the original aluminum ones. It threads in to the old hanger from the back side.
Ed
Ed
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I was going to try that but I am worried about clearance between small cog and drop out... Not much room in there with it being a 126mm rear. I am going to try the helicoil, new stainless threads inserted in enlarged hole... If that doesnt work than I can go with the hanger saver type thing you are talking about.
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Best wishes in getting everything sorted out!
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"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
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Yikes. Glad it was no worse.
My chain somehow popped loose from the rear derailleur and nearly into the spokes a few weeks ago. That was a terrifying few seconds while I carefully slowed and moved to the roadside, waiting for the inevitable wrenching of the RD completely off the bike.
Didn't happen. I rethreaded the chain and continued on.
Then I noticed some squeaking. Shrugged it off, figuring it was just the new clipless shoes and pedals. I'd heard they sometimes squeak a little so I didn't worry about it.
Best I can figure, my attempt at easing some drivetrain tension by adding a couple of extra links was misguided. When I did my monthly chain swap (I swap between two identical waxed chains once a month, dunking the "old" chain into the crock pot of paraffin again), I inspected the rear derailleur and discovered the pulley cage and Delrin pulleys were a little buggered from the chain incident, and rubbing together -- that was the squeak, and the drivetrain tension was very high from friction.
I carefully smoothed out the scratches with jeweler's files, cleaned and regreased the pulleys, and installed the other chain that was technically the correct length -- no extra links.
Smoothest the drivetrain has been since I got the bike.
I'll be removing those extra links from the second chain. It just added slack and slop that made the chain drop off the chainrings too often on front derailleur shifts, and nearly buggered the rear derailleur during a fast ride.
My chain somehow popped loose from the rear derailleur and nearly into the spokes a few weeks ago. That was a terrifying few seconds while I carefully slowed and moved to the roadside, waiting for the inevitable wrenching of the RD completely off the bike.
Didn't happen. I rethreaded the chain and continued on.
Then I noticed some squeaking. Shrugged it off, figuring it was just the new clipless shoes and pedals. I'd heard they sometimes squeak a little so I didn't worry about it.
Best I can figure, my attempt at easing some drivetrain tension by adding a couple of extra links was misguided. When I did my monthly chain swap (I swap between two identical waxed chains once a month, dunking the "old" chain into the crock pot of paraffin again), I inspected the rear derailleur and discovered the pulley cage and Delrin pulleys were a little buggered from the chain incident, and rubbing together -- that was the squeak, and the drivetrain tension was very high from friction.
I carefully smoothed out the scratches with jeweler's files, cleaned and regreased the pulleys, and installed the other chain that was technically the correct length -- no extra links.
Smoothest the drivetrain has been since I got the bike.
I'll be removing those extra links from the second chain. It just added slack and slop that made the chain drop off the chainrings too often on front derailleur shifts, and nearly buggered the rear derailleur during a fast ride.
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Shows it doesnt take much to destroy a rear end on a bike. The simplest of mistakes and bam!
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That sucks. Two years ago I had just finished restoring an '86 Schwinn LeTour. The 2nd ride I was on the freewheel locked up for a split second and ripped the RD right off. The hanger was damaged beyond all repair.
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The part is called the " Derailleur hanger saver"
Do a Google search and you will find a lot of information and video on it.
Ed
Do a Google search and you will find a lot of information and video on it.
Ed
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Man, sorry to hear about that and hope you can get it back to Cool.
Worse case scenario, you'll have a Hell of a single speed.
Worse case scenario, you'll have a Hell of a single speed.
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Well that is plan D, if plan A Helicoil, B Hanger Saver, or C converting to replaceable hanger, do not work out... it will be single speed time.
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On top of a slight bend it also means it destroys the threads on your aluminum in frame derailleur hanger.
So I have a m10-1 helicoil kit on the way, thinking this is going to be the best solution... Anyone with any input and suggestions on my situation or plan to repair please let me know.
So I have a m10-1 helicoil kit on the way, thinking this is going to be the best solution... Anyone with any input and suggestions on my situation or plan to repair please let me know.
I'm traveling today and tomorrow, but will see what I can do.
PS: Your blast from my past (Facet) has me thinking seriously about repainting an Ironman (that needs it badly) in the same scheme.
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There is a kit called Drop Out Saver from Wheels Mfg. It generally has more pieces than needed, but works well. I will pull my remnants out, as the dropout is pretty thick and may use one that I have left over.
I'm traveling today and tomorrow, but will see what I can do.
PS: Your blast from my past (Facet) has me thinking seriously about repainting an Ironman (that needs it badly) in the same scheme.
I'm traveling today and tomorrow, but will see what I can do.
PS: Your blast from my past (Facet) has me thinking seriously about repainting an Ironman (that needs it badly) in the same scheme.
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Update...
So I ordered this kit from Amazon, M10x1.0 Helicoil Thread Repair kit... Cost around $26 US shipped from UK took about 8 days to arrive...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So bike was prepped and ready to go waiting for the part to arrive... The installation of the Helicoil took about 5 mins.
1. Drill out existing stripped hole with supplied drill bit
2. Tap new threads with supplied tap (used tap handled already had)
3. Install threads with supplied tool
4. Done now tune shifting.
So with that done the I now have about a dozen or so M10x1.0 Helicoils left so if anyone gets in a bind I may be willing to loan out the kit for the cost of shipping and a promise to return kit when complete.
So I ordered this kit from Amazon, M10x1.0 Helicoil Thread Repair kit... Cost around $26 US shipped from UK took about 8 days to arrive...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So bike was prepped and ready to go waiting for the part to arrive... The installation of the Helicoil took about 5 mins.
1. Drill out existing stripped hole with supplied drill bit
2. Tap new threads with supplied tap (used tap handled already had)
3. Install threads with supplied tool
4. Done now tune shifting.
So with that done the I now have about a dozen or so M10x1.0 Helicoils left so if anyone gets in a bind I may be willing to loan out the kit for the cost of shipping and a promise to return kit when complete.
Last edited by copperfind; 03-22-18 at 12:42 PM.
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That's really fantastic of you to offer others some relief from any similar incident.
I only lost threads in an aluminum hanger once, and used one of those savers with a thin flange on it, which was just thin enough to clear the cassette lockring.
This was a Pacific-brand aluminum mtb frame, with very nice-looking "acid green" paint with accentuated brush lines, and the hanger had no abundance of metal surrounding the hole.
So I first tapered the outside of the insert slightly by spinning against the grinder wheel, than used a tapered reamer from the back side to remove just enough metal to get the insert's flange to fit flush against the inside surface of the dropout. Finally I LocTited the insert in place with a firm press fit. This has been my duathlon racing bike for 15 years now, the one that I feel safe leaving nearly unattended at the trailhead before hitching a ride into town where the running leg of the race begins. It has also been my loaner and surprisingly still looks great.
So it was a reliable repair that I took care to do as carefully as possible to preserve the structure of the dropout.
I only lost threads in an aluminum hanger once, and used one of those savers with a thin flange on it, which was just thin enough to clear the cassette lockring.
This was a Pacific-brand aluminum mtb frame, with very nice-looking "acid green" paint with accentuated brush lines, and the hanger had no abundance of metal surrounding the hole.
So I first tapered the outside of the insert slightly by spinning against the grinder wheel, than used a tapered reamer from the back side to remove just enough metal to get the insert's flange to fit flush against the inside surface of the dropout. Finally I LocTited the insert in place with a firm press fit. This has been my duathlon racing bike for 15 years now, the one that I feel safe leaving nearly unattended at the trailhead before hitching a ride into town where the running leg of the race begins. It has also been my loaner and surprisingly still looks great.
So it was a reliable repair that I took care to do as carefully as possible to preserve the structure of the dropout.
#22
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That's really fantastic of you to offer others some relief from any similar incident.
I only lost threads in an aluminum hanger once, and used one of those savers with a thin flange on it, which was just thin enough to clear the cassette lockring.
This was a Pacific-brand aluminum mtb frame, with very nice-looking "acid green" paint with accentuated brush lines, and the hanger had no abundance of metal surrounding the hole.
So I first tapered the outside of the insert slightly by spinning against the grinder wheel, than used a tapered reamer from the back side to remove just enough metal to get the insert's flange to fit flush against the inside surface of the dropout. Finally I LocTited the insert in place with a firm press fit. This has been my duathlon racing bike for 15 years now, the one that I feel safe leaving nearly unattended at the trailhead before hitching a ride into town where the running leg of the race begins. It has also been my loaner and surprisingly still looks great.
So it was a reliable repair that I took care to do as carefully as possible to preserve the structure of the dropout.
I only lost threads in an aluminum hanger once, and used one of those savers with a thin flange on it, which was just thin enough to clear the cassette lockring.
This was a Pacific-brand aluminum mtb frame, with very nice-looking "acid green" paint with accentuated brush lines, and the hanger had no abundance of metal surrounding the hole.
So I first tapered the outside of the insert slightly by spinning against the grinder wheel, than used a tapered reamer from the back side to remove just enough metal to get the insert's flange to fit flush against the inside surface of the dropout. Finally I LocTited the insert in place with a firm press fit. This has been my duathlon racing bike for 15 years now, the one that I feel safe leaving nearly unattended at the trailhead before hitching a ride into town where the running leg of the race begins. It has also been my loaner and surprisingly still looks great.
So it was a reliable repair that I took care to do as carefully as possible to preserve the structure of the dropout.
#24
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For that matter I have a right hand thread 9/16-18 helicoil kit I'm willing to lend on the same terms, if anyone has in mind to convert a french threaded DS crankarm to English (the reason I got it), or has a damaged crankarm simply needing thread repair.
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