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Really stuck freewheel. Just leave it?

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Really stuck freewheel. Just leave it?

Old 03-30-18, 03:19 PM
  #1  
ppg677
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Really stuck freewheel. Just leave it?

I've got a really stuck freewheel. I put the FR-1 tool in a vice, put the freewheel into the splines on top, and put as much force as I could turning the wheel counter-clockwise and it didn't budge.

I'm just trying to remove it to rebuild the hub. I suppose I could leave it on and rebuild from the other side? (The cogs on the freewheel look fine and it spins just fine).

I haven't tried soaking in anything.
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Old 03-30-18, 03:28 PM
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get it warm then give it a try also how old is it? rj the bike guy has some creative methods on youtube

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Old 03-30-18, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kc0yef View Post
get it warm then give it a try also how old is it? rj the bike guy has some creative methods on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVCOjZ4wCgA
My dad's well used expression, "Don't use force. Get a bigger hammer."

Ben
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Old 03-30-18, 03:34 PM
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Also, you said you haven't tried soaking it in anything. I would try some carefully placed drops of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench and leave it for a few days, then try again with your same method.
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Old 03-30-18, 03:42 PM
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If it is really bad

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Old 03-30-18, 03:44 PM
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if you want a laugh
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Old 03-30-18, 03:48 PM
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I have a very heavy workbench and if a FW is really stuck, my workbench will move and I think the spokes will break, and then is comes free.
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Old 03-30-18, 04:09 PM
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Soak it, then try again.

The freewheel remover should be secured with a quick release with the springs removed. Yes, even for splined tools. Then put it back in the vise and turn very hard.
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Old 03-30-18, 04:17 PM
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This will remove it instantly:

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Old 03-30-18, 04:22 PM
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18 inch crescent wrench + various size pipe extensions should remove any freewheel. When buying extensions make sure they fit the handle wrench.
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Old 03-30-18, 05:07 PM
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I like the soak-in-PB-then-warm-it-with-a-heat-g*n method. Do that, put it back in your benchtop vise With a quick release skewer holding the tool to the freewheel (not tightened all the way down, obv) and really reef on it again. I've broken free two hopeless cases that way.

I usually apply the PB for a couple of days and let it sit. And tap on the freewheel with a heavy wench or hammer to let the vibrations help it soak in. I have no idea if this actually helps, but it makes me feel I'm doing everything I can
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Old 03-30-18, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Metacortex View Post
This will remove it instantly:

We have a 3/4 and a 1" at work, same ingersoll rand brand, and all I can say is holy crap.
They are amazingly powerful and strangely gentle on the wrists.
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Old 03-30-18, 05:38 PM
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-----

Cannot help but think there must be a piece of missing information here.

When using the method described one has so much leverage. Have never experienced a failure with this method in many hundreds of gear block removals over forty-five years of cycle work.




-----
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Old 03-30-18, 05:38 PM
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Put it in a vise and get a friend in the other side of the wheel to help, something will break loose.
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Old 03-30-18, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ppg677 View Post
I've got a really stuck freewheel. I put the FR-1 tool in a vice, put the freewheel into the splines on top, and put as much force as I could turning the wheel counter-clockwise and it didn't budge.

I'm just trying to remove it to rebuild the hub. I suppose I could leave it on and rebuild from the other side? (The cogs on the freewheel look fine and it spins just fine).

I haven't tried soaking in anything.
Let ma guess.... a Regina FW??
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Old 03-30-18, 06:04 PM
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I had a badly stuck Suntour New Winner on a Campy NR hub. My realization of how badly stuck it was only came after two of the four prongs on the inner body were sheared off in successive attempts to remove it, not to mention destruction of two freewheel tools into the bargain. I gave not a rat's ass for the freewheel, they're a dime a dozen, but I wanted to save the hub, so I abandoned brutality with tools and stripped the freewheel down in place, leaving only the inner body. Then, very judiciously, using a high speed miniature grinder with a thin cutoff wheel, I cut into the inner body until it was weakened enough to split along the cut I had made, with a very modest application of torque via the freewheel tool.
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Old 03-30-18, 06:14 PM
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Lean into it and.... ‘snap’....hard
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Old 03-30-18, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kc0yef View Post
Yup, I laughed! Thanks.....

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Old 03-30-18, 06:26 PM
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I had one on a two-year old all-steel '74 Fuji Special Tourer that refused to budge. Steel hub, SunTour 14-28 five speed freewheel. At first I tried a 10" wrench on the proper two-prong tool. Nada. Then a 18" pipe wrench. Nope. Last resort was putting the tool in the vise and did the good old 'Left Turn of the bus steering wheel.' Spokes started snapping and the whole wheel pretzeled. I was forced to buy a new wheel and freewheel.

Since that day. I always coat the threads with Anti-seize.
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Old 03-30-18, 06:28 PM
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I just had the same issue with a Suntour New Winner freewheel and Campy NR hub, and took it to my LBS which knows vintage gear. I already had the factory Suntour CroMoly freewheel tool locked in with the skewer. They have a very nice old and heavy vise bolted to their wall anchored work table. They used some penetrant oil and let it sit before using leverage to get it loose. I was quite thankful and will remember to grease the threads or use anti-seize on the next one.

Same thing for a Campy pedal on my Campy triple, I let them handle it so I wouldn't have to struggle with it since I don't have a good vise setup. In many cases, the relatively minor cost really outweighs the time, hassle, and worry if one doesn't have just the right tools - which in many cases I do but when time is short (Eroica prep), better to let the pro do it for now, IMO.

That said, I just bought some additional PB Blaster and other products to help stuck fasteners and parts. Back to the workshop tonight!
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Old 03-30-18, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by juvela View Post
-----

Cannot help but think there must be a piece of missing information here.

When using the method described one has so much leverage. Have never experienced a failure with this method in many hundreds of gear block removals over forty-five years of cycle work.




-----
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Old 03-31-18, 07:39 AM
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Consult the Binford catalog.
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Old 03-31-18, 07:50 AM
  #23  
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The Columbian vise hasn't failed yet. Manages most seat posts too.

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Old 03-31-18, 09:21 AM
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the $2 length of pipe I bought years ago as a cheater bar to go over my wrench has never failed to move a FW (fingers crossed) I also use the trick of putting a QR skewer through the FW tool to hold it in place, I think I stole those tricks from forum member @randyjawa btw

FW with skewer by Ryan Surface, on Flickr

FW Cheater bar by Ryan Surface, on Flickr

Good luck
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Old 03-31-18, 03:34 PM
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I also use a skewer to hold the freewheel tool in place, but I learned from experience, unfortunately, that a possible result of budging a stuck freewheel is that your skewer rod gets bent, i.e., don't use a skewer you value!
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