stuart1865

Now that my 1982 Matsuri's bottom bracket has been replaced, I have repacked the wheels,and have started the headset. Before I opened it up, the fork would actually "click into place" at certain points when turned! Anyway, the headset is a Hatta and appears to be set into about a 35mm (estimated) head tube insert. Very noticeable pitting (see photo) on the race.

Any input on where I go from here? Sure, I can just re-pack it and move on, but my OCD will not let me.....

Salamandrine 

Time for a new headset. That one is toast. I'd recommend the Tange Levin, which is a high quality headset that has been made for decades. It's a nicer headset than the original, but not silly. I think they're like $30. Tange makes cheaper ones too, if that's more than you want to spend.

lostarchitect 

I agree 100%.

gaucho777 

+1 to Salamandrine.

stuart1865

Good enough for me. I'll hunt one down. Thanks, all!

Salamandrine 

Cool.

I suggest checking your crown race diameter before you buy anything. It's probably a standard (ISO) headset with a 26.4 crown, but there's a slight chance it could be JIS.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html

cdmurphy

Early 80s Japanese makes it pretty likely a JIS headset at 27.0mm. Either way, measuring your current one will tell you for sure.

The sort of damage you show is usually encountered on the lower race or cup. I bet it was severely overtightened at some point, leading to that spalling damage. I bet the lower races don't look any better.

noobinsf 

Definitely measure first. I traded frames, going from Univega to Univega -- an 85 Viva Touring to an 86 Gran Premio -- and they were not compatible, so I had to get a new headset. The Viva was 27.0, while the Premio is 26.4. There is no hard and fast rule for Japanese bikes of that era, as far as I know.

stuart1865

OK....Headset top nut says Nishiki Kawamura. The lower races say Hattaswan. I see the Tange Levin out there for sale, but there are several types. A Levin at 22.3mm ID and a Levin CDS at 22.5mm ID. There is also the alloy. I wish to get a black set. However, the .2mm ID is a but much for me to determine with a ruler. Measuring the race ID looks to be 27mm. No way it's 26.4. My eyes see a clean 27mm.

Anyone have any insights here?

SJX426 

The only insight I can provide would be to get digital calipers at Harbor Freight! Don't know HS spec's that well to help.

Salamandrine 

Yeah, yer right. And I amend "slight chance" to "a decent chance" it could be JIS. Regardless, it should be measured cause as noobinsf pointed out, it could be either. IIRC the higher end bikes were more likely to have 26.4, but it was hard to predict.

The ID of the cups is essentially irrelevant. Don't worry about it. The OD of the part that presses in matters, but that's not what you should look at.

The main thing that matters is the ID of the crown race: 26.4 or 27.0? If it's 27.0, then get a JIS headset.

Measuring calipers are really really useful. Kind of hard to work on bikes without them.

stuart1865

stuart1865

Guess that settles it. Looks unmistakingly like a 27mm......Confirmed?

Thoughts on aluminum vs steel? I want to go black.

https://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/headset-tange-thrd-levin-cds-1in-27-0-bk?utm_source=TPA%20On%20Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Top%20Placement%20Ads%C2%AE%20(SPLA)&utm_med ium=cpc&utm_term=People%20Searching%20For%20Bike%20Parts&utm_content=Google%20Shopping&product_id=14 2552&device=c&loc_physical_ms=9015754&gclid=Cj0KCQjwibDXBRCyARIsAFHp4foTBF7U3uPuXxw-Jx1cJ8HRcTkgwlPjt8gLPcVBMhQkeZWhYaSvzM0aAmhoEALw_wcB

Another is:

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-T...ustomerReviews

Pars 

Looks like it, but the digital calipers are most useful on bikes (and are cheap).

I'd go steel on the headset personally; will generally last longer.

cdmurphy

Either one of those would be fine, but I would strongly recommend looking for a cartridge bearing style headset if you aren't keeping this period correct. The loose ball style headsets need periodic maintenance, and are still susceptible to indexing caused by fretting damage. Sealed cartridges mean no lubing, or opportunity for grit to get in there. The slight bit of motion allowable between the cups and bearing all but eliminates indexing down the road. Try the FSA Duron: (Ebay# 291386064377) They're not much money, and this one is a JIS crown race, in black. (I had a silver one, and was quite happy with it, until I sold the bike.)

Salamandrine 

I'd recommend steel. If you plan on doing this with DIY and improvised tools, there's less chance of screwing it up.

speedevil 

You might consider the Tange Falcon headset - the difference is that the Falcon uses easily-replaceable cartridge bearings. You can get the Falcon in sliver or black finishes. The Levin uses a cup and cone design, I think. Either will work, if the ISO/JIS crown race diameter is correct for your fork. You should also check the stack height to be sure the head tube/fork steerer will work with the headset you choose.

stuart1865

This is my stack. Do I read this as 56mm?

Mr. 66

merziac

That is a great looking headset, I would go to great lengths to keep it in play. I would go to the co-op for some mix and match pieces and or get a couple of economical new ones to possibly cannibalize. Sure to be a challenge, bet it could be done.

SquidPuppet

No. Subtract the amount that is INSIDE the head tube.

CliffordK

Stronglight also makes some nice sealed bearing headsets that would be worth considering.

stuart1865

56 mm minus (11.0mm + 10mm) = 56mm - 21.0mm = 35.0 stack. Eyeballed. Sound common?

Hoopdriver

Not at all confirmed. You are trying to discriminate between two standards that are only a bit more than half a mm different. Your measure is only reliable if you are ok with a 50/50 chance of accuracy. You also need to measure the OD of the cups. It will probably be 30.0 mm there is some small chance that it could be different.

The goal is to have about 2mm between the inside of the locknut and the top of the steer tube, If your stack height is a bit high, you can always add spacers. If the stack height is a bit two low, you have two options: 1) different head set <or> 2) shorten the steer tube.

My advice, as others have given earlier, is for you to invest in a cheap set of digital calipers. You may be lucky and get everything right with your eyeball approach, but why risk issues when they can be simply and cheaply avoided.

stuart1865

Thanks everybody. I will post here my eventual success, whatever it turns out to be!