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And things were going so well (warning graphic images)

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And things were going so well (warning graphic images)

Old 05-10-18, 01:55 PM
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And things were going so well (warning graphic images)


just a little test ride of the flea market find before I before I put it away.... dropped the chain going about 2 mph. Game over huh?
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Old 05-10-18, 02:04 PM
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Ouch!
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Old 05-10-18, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bark_eater View Post

just a little test ride of the flea market find before I before I put it away.... dropped the chain going about 2 mph. Game over huh?

Great timing! Same thing (minus the flea market trip) happened to me about 3 weeks ago.
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Old 05-10-18, 03:45 PM
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I hate it when the spokes get hungry.
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Old 05-10-18, 03:55 PM
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Spokes are fine. Near as I can tell I didn't have enough tension on the quick release. I was going pretty good before I slowed to a crawl to run through the gears. when I dropped the chain it pulled the wheel out of the drop out
, then the bike kept going forward over the axle and all of my weight went on to the derailleur. I realy was coasting a 2 mph just spinning the pedals enough to shift. there was a little clunk so stopped and hope off to fix the chain. erps... repairable?
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Old 05-10-18, 03:57 PM
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Been there, done that. Cried bitter tears. Cursed the Gods. Trembled with impotent rage. Twice.

Once it was just dumb luck involving a stick tied to a cord; waiting in the deep grass for me. The other time it was my own fault; forgot to adjust the RD when I swapped in a different wheel/freewheel combo.
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Old 05-10-18, 04:15 PM
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Heres the side view. I cold bent the derailleur hsanger back a bit to get the wheel untangled. it did not take much force holding on to the derailleur.
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Old 05-10-18, 04:34 PM
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You could be OK if you got it straightened back already, just check really closely for cracks on the DO where it bent and also check if the threaded RD mounting hole is not ovalized.....if it is, it will be hard to keep the upper pivot bolt tight on the DO and could lead to another disastrous RD eating wheel episode in the future....
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Old 05-10-18, 04:53 PM
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I'm sure I could do a reasonable anneal, bend. anneal bend some more session, but I think there will be trust issues. with the dropout slot pulled open and tweaked I think there's going to be alignment problems. It also looks like the frame spacing opened up. The frame was a very clean Miyata 110. It was a nice 5 minute ride till disaster struck.
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Old 05-10-18, 05:14 PM
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Hey! I gots a t-shirt from the same place!


IMG_1881 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr


IMG_1883 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr


IMG_1884 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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Old 05-10-18, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bark_eater View Post

Heres the side view. I cold bent the derailleur hsanger back a bit to get the wheel untangled. it did not take much force holding on to the derailleur.
Yeah, the slot being opened up would seem to cause the most concern. At least your dropouts don't feature adjusting screws which would make closing that spread more of a concern. Good luck with whatever fix you go with.

DD
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Old 05-10-18, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bark_eater View Post
Game over huh?
Not necessarily. It's a steel dropout,so you should be able to bend it back into alignment and close the slot to original width. At least you don't have those adjuster bolts in the slots; those are a common failure point for bent dropouts. The mounting threads may be distorted after that, but could be chased to functional condition. Failing that, a hanger insert could be used to restore the threads:



https://www.bikeparts.com/BPC111293/...-insert-7mm-pr
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Old 05-10-18, 05:36 PM
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No need to heat and bend. I have realigned plenty of hangers and slots just by cold set. Completely reliable for the long haul. Really, no kidding. The tough job is getting the wheel slot to close, but a large enough slip joint pliers will do it. after that, install a wheel and move the hanger into place. This was a common repair back in the day. No big deal. Really.
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Old 05-10-18, 05:36 PM
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Gotta love those damage tolerant cheap frames!
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Old 05-10-18, 05:41 PM
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This old Olmo Grand Prix taught me to NEVER test ride a bike until I have checked it over thoroughly. I failed to do that with this Olmo, which I bought from a local bike shop. As it turned out, the rear wheel was not properly snugged, leaping out of the drops the second I pressed on the drive side pedal. Over the bars I went, landing on my right shoulder and causing some hurt then and for a few days to follow.



I know that it is preferable to test a bike before buying, but, after all the bikes and years of building, I am pretty good at not getting something that has been damaged, but even at that, before I actually do take the bike out for a Test Ride, I make sure it will stop, go and stay together, before I swing a leg over the saddle.
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Old 05-10-18, 05:51 PM
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Well, let me declare my membership in this club.



That buffed right out. (The hanger bend, not the derailleur.)

Of course, none of these are as bad as the bike I rode to work this morning, which some idjit cut the hanger off of, but then @gugie brazed a new one on before passing the frame my way. I've got a 10-speed indexed system on there now shifting perfectly. Where there's a torch there is hope.
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Old 05-10-18, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TiHabanero View Post
No need to heat and bend. I have realigned plenty of hangers and slots just by cold set. Completely reliable for the long haul. Really, no kidding.
+1 this. Steel dropouts were traditionally forged from relatively mild steel, so it would remain malleable.

The tough job is getting the wheel slot to close, but a large enough slip joint pliers will do it.
I've done it by hooking the opening of an adjustable wrench (the hole you use to hang the tool on a hook) over the hanger to bend the slot closed. Then the adjustable end can be closed on the hanger to re-align it.
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Old 05-10-18, 06:49 PM
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Pre-flight check on all systems is always a good idea before ANY bike ride.....
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Old 05-10-18, 06:56 PM
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I took the deraileur off and the hole is very much ovalized. I think i will anneal it as well as i can with a propane torch and press it flat in a big vise. I realy dont trust steel thats been bent back from 90 degrees though. I know it doesent make sense, but how much would it cost to have a couple new drop outs brazed in? Im half way between Philly and DC, if theres anyone who does frame work locally.
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Old 05-10-18, 06:56 PM
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Guess that wouldn‘t have happened with a dork disc

How about one of those removable claw hangers that go into the wheel slot?
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Old 05-11-18, 06:15 AM
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I ordered a "Problem Solver Rear Dropout Saver Insert Nut" from jolly old England. I'm going to step away from the bike for a bit but want to confirm a couple thermodynamic points. Mild carbon steel will anneal at 600 celsius "Red heat, visible in the sunlight" and brass brazing flows at 950 celsius (Oh lord what have I done). Correct?
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Old 05-11-18, 06:24 AM
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I don't know what there is to gain by heating it? Seems like many folks have had fine results just bending the steel back to its right place.
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Old 05-11-18, 07:17 AM
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Sucking the wheel out of the drop outs, yes, member of the club. But, sadly didn't break the derailleur hanger in the fall when everything locked and stopped on a steep ramp up to the trail, and like you only going 2-3 mph thankfully, instead discovered just how long the sciatic nerve is.
Truly, I would rather be replacing/fixing a derailleur hanger.
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Old 05-11-18, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by clasher View Post
I don't know what there is to gain by heating it? Seems like many folks have had fine results just bending the steel back to its right place.
I agree, I'd try bending it back first. Fortunately my der hanger wasnt bent in the mishap I posted a pic of in post 3, so I just replaced the der. But if it had been bent, I would've tried bending it back before putting a bunch of heat on it.
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Old 05-11-18, 07:57 AM
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The entire photographic content of this thread is deeply unsettling. I blame myself for being intrigued by the warning.
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