I posted the wrong picture. :( Measured from the top of the fork crown, the steerer tube is 228mm, and 224 from the top of the crown race.

Time to go make some cuts....

Success! Full build thread coming soon (still waiting on a few bits)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ca3957c83a.jpg

Awesome! Can't wait to see it.

That Ritchey Pro stem ought to be ~42mm at the steerer clamp so you'll have no issues fully 'slamming' it. The Kalloy stem on my Trek is only 40mm at the clamp. If you go much shorter (i.e. less than 38mm) the top cap will interfere with some internal geometry where the tube transitions from 1 1/8" (28.6mm) to 7/8" (22.2mm).

[MENTION=11954]joejack951[/MENTION] are you still selling these direct or exclusively on amazon now? Someone pointed me to this thread after I made this one on saturday: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-locknuts.html basically looking for exactly this - wish I had seen this before I bought a new headset and adapter stem! I can't swing it right now, but I added it to my amazon wishlist for future purchase.

[MENTION=336334]the sci guy[/MENTION] Yes, exclusively on Amazon for now. Let me know if you have any questions in the meantime.

Gary Fisher 1996 Wahool headset conversion
 

Can I use the innicycle Conversion Headset 1" quill stem to 1-1/8" Threadless on my 1996 Gary Fisher Wahoo? Currently it has a 1" quill stem and a 1 1/8" steel headset.


What other information do you need?


Thanks


Paul (NZ)

Hi Paul,

If your current quill stem measures 1” at the neck then unfortunately the current innicycle headset won’t fit. It is designed for 22.2mm (7/8”) diameter quill stems and their matching forks with 1”-24 tpi threads.

If sufficient interest arose, it is possible to create an ‘oversized’ innicycle headset that would fit 1 1/8” threaded forks and would use 1 1/4” threadless stems. However, I see that as a very slim possibility for several reasons, mainly that there aren’t all that many high quality bikes using 1 1/8” threaded forks (relative to 1” threaded forks) and there are plenty of nice 1 1/8” threadless forks available to allow use of a 1 1/8” threadless stem where a threadless conversion is desired.

Sorry to disappoint. If you are itching to try an innicycle headset, it shouldn’t be too hard to find an older (pre-2000) road bike with a 1” threaded fork in your part of the world. I think you’d be my first NZ customer, too :-)

innicycle headset
 

Thanks for your reply. Your headset is really functional and attractive and I'm disappointed I can't use it. May just have to go with the quill stem convertor which is not as precise.
If I do get an urge to upgrade one of my classic road bikes, I will certainly give it a try.

This also looked interesting - a 1" Threaded to Threadless Fork Conversion search on Youtube

quill stem adaptors
 

Thanks for your input Robbie

I have also used a quill stem adaptor on a Fisher CR-7 that I've owned from new - but it's a little creaky. The mechanic shimmed it and reckons that some of Gary's bike parts were
not too precise.

Coming up against the obstacles of threaded fork conversions for 1 1/8" I will probably do so again, but with a better quality adaptor.

I do like the threaded to threaded conversion as seen on Youtube, but agree that it is expensive and has the detrimental effect of losing the original forks

I look forward to trying the inicycle conversion on my Holdsworth racing bike built from Reynolds tubing

Thanks again

I don’t believe either of these bikes have graced the pages of this thread. [Hint hint]

:thumb:

Threadless Conversion Headset
 

[MENTION=11954]joejack951[/MENTION]

Hello, a very nice product you have developed.

I am interested in one for my steel frame build.

Can you please confirm if the product will work with my frame and fork combination.

See below for dimensions.

Head Tube = 169mm

Steerer = 204mm (with 26mm of thread)

Crown Race / Cup = 26.4mm / 30.2mm

Thank you for your assistance.

204 (steerer) - 169 (headtube) = 35 (good to go)

35 - 26 (thread length) = 9 (again good to go)

So I’ll be honest. I love math, but most people don’t share my warm feelings toward numbers. I am going to work on a printable gauge/graphic that will make all of this a visual exercise rather than a mathematical one. Look forward to a sample or two for approval from the BF panel prior to a wider launch to the public (Amazon).

Awesome. Thanks for the quick reply.
Just want to double check that when 35 - 26 = 9 it is still good to go (as it is less than the magic 16mm requirement)

A simple diagram of a head tube and steerer with dimensions labelled (A, B & C etc) plus a simple equation and requirements would be great.

For example,
Steerer Length (A) - Head Tube Length (B) = Excess Steerer Length (C), where (C) must be between 27mm and 45mm.

Excess Steerer Length (C) - Steerer Thread (D) = Excess Steerer Non Thread Length (E), where (E) must be less than 16mm.

I'll leave the diagram up to you 😀

I've now used 3 of these fine items. I've never measured anything. On one bike, where the steerer was easily 2" too long (fork was from a bigger frame), I used a hacksaw and cleaned up the threads. The general impression I have, is if the fork fits before, it will fit after. One of my friends rides beautiful steel classics, but he has to use a quill adapter and modern stem unless he can find a 90-degree 120 or 130 quill in the right size for the only bars he uses. The Innicycle would look better, in my opinion, and he'd be hooked (if he ever could kiss those Campy headsets goodbye).

On a side note, I've since "sort of" convinced a friend to go with a Y-Foil as a project. The forks are proprietary unless you really know what you're doing, as the bolt-crown distance is about 7/8" longer than most forks. She (I) did not want to be limited to a quill stem on such a unique frame, and let's face it, most of the quill adapters look like an ostrich neck once a stem is mounted. I'm lobbying heavily for an Innicycle adapter for her build, and using my Y-Foil as an example. I've even offered to buy the Innicycle for her, and keep it if it doesn't work out.

Ha! I posted that having just woken up and clearly didn't proofread. The requirement is for the threads to end no more than 16mm above the headtube so whether the correct math is 5 or 9mm, you are still good to go :)

What the <16mm above the headtube is ensuring is the upper race can screw down the steerer tube far enough to contact the upper bearing. The <45mm above the headtube ensures that the steerer tube doesn't bottom out internally inside of the quill/upper race portion. I could only accommodate a certain amount of steerer tube inside of that area before I start infringing on how short the unit could be trimmed for those wanting to run slammed stems with short-ish steerer clamp areas.

As RobbieTunes alludes to, the measurements I selected also (not coincidentally) accommodate most frame/forks without any modification. It is only when a thick spacer has been installed with the original headset (for a touring bike or similar) that the steerer will be too long to work unmodified (see Rocket-Sauce 's posts).

RobbieTunes I'm loving the Y-Foil with innicycle conversion. It just looks 'right'. Keep pushing that friend! I think I know what my next vintage build is going to be...

No problem :)

Thanks for the confirmation.

An ordered has been placed :thumb:

Thank you very much! Feel free to post any questions/comments/concerns in this thread. Looking forward to seeing pics of at least the finished build, if not some in-process shots as well.

From reading up above, it looks like the simplest way to use one of these on a JIS fork is to find an old bike shop with the ability to turn the race down to ISO diameter, right?

Yes. I still have not tried to do it, due to lack of interest, but it should also be fairly simple to ream out the ID to JIS spec. The advantage of cutting fork crown down to ISO spec is that you won’t have to worry about it if you ever need to replace it or swap it for something else.

It would be very helpful if the units came with even a basic diagram of how it works, or with some description of what goes where. Once I had that "oh-now-I-get-it" moment and understood that the top piece replaces the threaded top race and lock nut on a conventional threaded headset *and* become a sort of false head tube extension, it all went together super easily.

By the way, I LOVE this headset. It is one of those products that I just can't believe haven't been done before. In hindsight, it seems so obvious.

Also, it is SUPER high quality.

Will definitely buy again.

Perhaps this is just the diagram that I need to create to help explain just how this thing works. Like an A + B + C = D illustration (upper race + lock nut + threadless adapter = innicycle upper subassembly)

Haha! I think that's why I love product design so much. When you have that moment where it all becomes so clear how to solve the problem and everything just seems to fall into place...it's kinda like the same feeling I get out on the open road on a bike!

Thanks, glad you feel it's money well spent.

Trimming the steerer tube upper portion:

The headset arrived before Christmas. As others have mentioned, a high quality well designed product.
Thanks for the after sales support as well.
6 months into the project, I am still (slowly) collecting parts! 😀
Photos will follow at some point 👌

So happy I found this thread. This is the exact solution I was looking for. Just ordered a silver one on Amazon!