Threadless Conversion Headset
#126
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Late to the party
I fond myself in the same situation, I'm looking to buy a black Innicycle conversion setup for my Trek 1500 but can only find it in silver. Any idea how I can get my hands on one?
#127
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Thread Starter
In the meantime, just send me a PM and I can get you set up with one.
#129
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFYZPD2
Black innicycle headsets back in stock by May 4, 2020. JIS crown races available in ~4 weeks, no, make that 5-6 based on how everything is going lately.
Black innicycle headsets back in stock by May 4, 2020. JIS crown races available in ~4 weeks, no, make that 5-6 based on how everything is going lately.
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Found the black on on Amazon today by searching for "Innicycle". Using it on my 85 Mt Fuji.
#131
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Glad you found it! Being a Fuji, does your fork have a JIS-spec 27mm crown race? If so, we’ll need to talk about getting you one of the JIS races that I am in the process of producing. That is unless you plan on having yours cut to ISO spec (26.4mm).
#132
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Any idea when the black will be back in stock? I had it sitting in my amazon cart for weeks and just waited too long...
#133
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#134
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Stock of all headsets is pretty limited right now while I work out the details of the next production run. Amazon will not be getting any more black units for some time but I will sell direct until I run out.
#135
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For those to whom it matters, JIS-spec crown races are due to arrive in the next week or two. A few of you have requested them and I'll be following up once I have them in hand. I imagine it will take some time to use up the handful I made, but stranger things have happened

#136
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For those to whom it matters, JIS-spec crown races are due to arrive in the next week or two. A few of you have requested them and I'll be following up once I have them in hand. I imagine it will take some time to use up the handful I made, but stranger things have happened 

#137
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Sweet talk them into a 140 mm 17 deg and I’m ordering! Multiple.
#138
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I've posted this bike elsewhere but thought it would make a good update to this thread as it demonstrate the max stem height one can achieve with an uncut innicycle headset. The Cannondale below has a 40mm clamp height stem and 50mm of spacers below it, using up every available millimeter of steerer tube on the quill portion. The resulting hood and drop heights are very similar to the original bike fitted a quill stem at its max height (see pic below for original bike as purchased).
#139
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If I do anything with stems, I will be going full custom. I have several ideas for a ‘proper’ innicycle stem, just need to get them in CAD. And convince myself it’s worth the effort and expense to produce more than one.
#140
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As currently designed, there is 50mm of extra steerer tube which, if desired, can be trimmed off instead. See pictures of my Trek 660 on page one of this thread for what this looks like.
If you are asking for a special headset with 100mm of adjustment, I’m going to decline. I don’t see much of a market for that nor do I trust the quill to steerer engagement to that
much potential leverage. There are quill stems out there that are quite tall and frankly they scare me.
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So installed this weekend. This thing is dope! Such an easy install and finished product looks like it belongs. I had to find another period fork (DB) bc it didn’t come with one. Only adjustment was I had to file down the shoulder for the bottom race on the steer tube. After that smooth as silk.
#142
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So installed this weekend. This thing is dope! Such an easy install and finished product looks like it belongs. I had to find another period fork (DB) bc it didn’t come with one. Only adjustment was I had to file down the shoulder for the bottom race on the steer tube. After that smooth as silk.
#143
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Thread Starter
So installed this weekend. This thing is dope! Such an easy install and finished product looks like it belongs. I had to find another period fork (DB) bc it didn’t come with one. Only adjustment was I had to file down the shoulder for the bottom race on the steer tube. After that smooth as silk.
#144
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I originally found your product on the OldShovel youtube site. This guy does some pretty cool restomods with vintage mtb's.
#145
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For anyone interested in the video:
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#147
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Thanks for the heads up! That was pretty cool to see and I'd have never known if you didn't mention it. Yet again proves how unimaginative I am in not realizing other potential options for my own product. My only gripe is his use of a tubing cutter on the steerer tube but it seems to have worked ok for him. I'd much prefer the use a hacksaw and proper cutting guide. Using the extra spacer on top of the stem (for future height adjustment options or stem swaps) was a nice touch.
For anyone interested in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sdjSzAG9lc
For anyone interested in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sdjSzAG9lc
In general what's the appeal of threadless? It seems you might like it for a more aggressive position? Why would I want it (I typically like bars and saddle even)?
I've read threadless is an inherently better design? I can see the increased stiffness, easy removal/Rinko, and multiple stem option (and availability of new stems) benefits ... would a con be height adjustability? Looks might be another, if you are a stickler for classic & vintage.
Is the Technomic one of the quills that scares you? What about quills too far down (or up?) in the steerer, I read in another thread steerer tube walls are only appropriate for the quill wedge in a particular region of the steerer, too high or too low (or maybe just one of those), could be dangerous?
Where can we see the thru axle project, and any other works you might have going?
Last edited by specialmonkey; 06-11-20 at 09:43 AM.
#148
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In general what's the appeal of threadless? It seems you might like it for a more aggressive position? Why would I want it (I typically like bars and saddle even)?
I've read threadless is an inherently better design? I can see the increased stiffness, easy removal/Rinko, and multiple stem option (and availability of new stems) benefits ... would a con be height adjustability? Looks might be another, if you are a stickler for classic & vintage.
I've read threadless is an inherently better design? I can see the increased stiffness, easy removal/Rinko, and multiple stem option (and availability of new stems) benefits ... would a con be height adjustability? Looks might be another, if you are a stickler for classic & vintage.
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#149
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So starting from 265 grams, you should be at 205-210 grams once cut down.
#150
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Proper headset tools can be easily improvised with some threaded rod and either some washers or even sockets. Ideally, the cups are pressed in by only making contact with the flat surface under the bearings, especially on the upper cup. There is a small feature on its upper edge that helps keep water/dirt from getting inside and it can be easily distorted by too much pressure. Can it be used to press the cups in? Probably. If I had my way, would it be? No.

As I was designing a completely need headset, I took that opportunity to allow for running the handlebars as low as possible, given the trend toward shallow drops these days. I found that it worked well for me on the bike I was building in the process. Now, you like many others, want to run the bars quite a bit higher. The nice thing about threadless for that is you have quite a few stem choices (length and angle), and should you decide on certain days you don't want the bars way up, you can quickly swap stems or flip your existing stem to lower them.
I've read threadless is an inherently better design? I can see the increased stiffness, easy removal/Rinko, and multiple stem option (and availability of new stems) benefits ... would a con be height adjustability? Looks might be another, if you are a stickler for classic & vintage.
I'm working on a more classic stem option to pair with the innicycle headset. I recognize that many modern stems don't look quite right on a skinny tube frame.
Is the Technomic one of the quills that scares you? What about quills too far down (or up?) in the steerer, I read in another thread steerer tube walls are only appropriate for the quill wedge in a particular region of the steerer, too high or too low (or maybe just one of those), could be dangerous?
It all started here: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...p?f=1&t=149055
The only other current item of note is the short pull arms for TRP HY/RD calipers that I created for my disc bike with pre-hydro Campy levers. If you're bored: Chinabomb Disc Brake Road Bike Build
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