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Peugeot PX10 help

Old 05-21-18, 06:52 PM
  #26  
jmaxwel8
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As I have thought about working on the bike, I kinda want to tap the crank arms to allow for a standard SPD pedal. It is really the only "upgrade" I will be making to the bike. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't. Seems like it would be easy to do but I just want to make sure I am not affecting the value of the bike. Not that it is overly valuable but I don't want to do something today that in 20 years I will say why on earth did I do that. I would like most people would rather have english threads?
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Old 05-22-18, 04:51 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jmaxwel8 View Post
As I have thought about working on the bike, I kinda want to tap the crank arms to allow for a standard SPD pedal. It is really the only "upgrade" I will be making to the bike. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't. Seems like it would be easy to do but I just want to make sure I am not affecting the value of the bike. Not that it is overly valuable but I don't want to do something today that in 20 years I will say why on earth did I do that. I would like most people would rather have english threads?
It seems to be a rather common modification. Since you're modifying a component, and not the frame, it won't affect the value much. Some people might rather have them tapped.
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Old 05-22-18, 05:19 AM
  #28  
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Check ebay or the Steel is Real Facebook Page, or the classifieds here for a Stronglight crank, My Mercier was built in 1971, and came from the factory with standard, I.e., non-French pedal threads. It might save you the hassle of re-threading your current crank, and you could store it away if you ever had the desire to put it back to all French.

Re: the front derailleur, I put a thin flat washer between the 2 derailleur halves to keep it from being over torqued. So far so good.
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Old 05-22-18, 07:35 AM
  #29  
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Coincidentally....

Stronglight 93 Crankset

Here you go. Already has the correct sized pedal threads. Looks like the arms are mismatched with one originally French threads, but the seller says it accepts standard pedals, so I think it's been re-threaded.
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Old 05-22-18, 10:37 AM
  #30  
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My PX-10 came with pretty beat up pedals that were no fun to use. I found that good french pedals were hard to come by so I tapped my cranks. If you have good pedals, you may want to save the cranks and pedals and replace them with something more user friendly. One of these days, I'll get some French retainers for my Phil Wood BB and install newish T.A. cranks.
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Old 05-22-18, 11:01 AM
  #31  
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We need pictures of the bike taken from the drivetrain side.
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Old 05-25-18, 06:13 PM
  #32  
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So the stem size is 22mm and the seatpost is 26.6, correct?
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Old 05-26-18, 02:10 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
This bike will look beautiful once you've finished it. It's clean and the parts are there other than the saddle. A brooks will fix that problem.
My PX10 came with Books Colt but I want to change it on Ideale.

Originally Posted by Chombi1 View Post
A new Ideale 90 saddle will be perfect for this bike!
Yes, a Brooks Pro would work, but why not make it all French with an Ideale saddle instead.
Or 92 Diagonale!

Originally Posted by jmaxwel8 View Post
So the stem size is 22mm and the seatpost is 26.6, correct?
On my PX10 is 26.4
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Old 05-29-18, 06:53 PM
  #34  
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Here are some pictures
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Old 05-30-18, 04:13 AM
  #35  
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That's coming along nicely! Good work so far.
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Old 05-30-18, 02:15 PM
  #36  
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well Im not sure if it was by my demise or it was already cracked but regardless is it cracked....

i read there are are plenty of alternatives but Id really like to stick to the simplex brand and come up with something that is all metal to avoid the cracking in the future. Could anyone offer suggestions. I was thinking of the simplex sj a102 but I read conflicting opinions if it will work or not. Anyone else got a suggestion using a simplex all metal FD
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Old 05-30-18, 06:49 PM
  #37  
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Found this metal Simplex front derailleur - front portion- on e-bay, a few years ago.
It has held up just fine mated to the plastic back portion.

Incidently, I think you are making a regrettable decision to alter the bottom bracket. I would keep it original, and have on mine, never a problem.

Sorry for the poor quality photo, but it is dark in my bike room.
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Old 05-30-18, 09:02 PM
  #38  
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If the 58-inch bottom gear is a bit too high for you (it would be for me), you could substitute a larger freewheel, which was a very standard out-the-door mod. we did on almost every PX-10 or PR-10 or PA-10 we sold.
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Old 05-31-18, 10:22 AM
  #39  
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j, the choice of front derailleur has no relation to the choice of bottom bracket.
Keeping the bottom bracket (& fd) original is merely a personnel preference, and perhaps a consideration for a future owner, or future salability.
I am of the school that cherishes originality for best value in the long run (& ease of maintenance). With a proven record in such.

Last edited by Peugeotlover; 05-31-18 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 05-31-18, 10:42 AM
  #40  
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Congrats! I harbor a desire for one just like that! The pedals look to be Lyotards of which I have a pair. I changed my Stronglight to standard threading ignorantly by forcing the new pedals on. It still works fine with little to no long term damage. In retrospect, tapping would be better. Like others suggested, I would keep them in a box and find a replacement crank set with the right threading.
From Speedplay pedal history
Lyotard Model CA45 1940's-1970's
France
This nice quality lightweight alloy quill pedal was sold at a very competitive price for many years.
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Old 05-31-18, 03:03 PM
  #41  
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I kinda lucked out on the pedals. A guy from another forum had some laying around with French threads and is sending them to me for free. They will be here in a couple of days. Universally everyone seemed to think that while it could be done, it probably best to avoid for a multitude of reason. Im sure everyone is right so how could I turn down his free offer. It was really nice of him.
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Old 06-19-18, 03:40 PM
  #42  
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Fork

Would one of you mind measuring from the bottom steering lug to the center of the front axle? Preferably a 58cm frame.
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Old 06-19-18, 03:51 PM
  #43  
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Obligatory Pics...Not so original



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Old 06-19-18, 04:02 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by natterberry View Post


Yeah the Lezyne bottle mounted on are pretty discrete. I went with medium, bout they do have a large.

I do have a Problem Solvers height adjuster between it and the cage. Bosses were too closed together.


+ 1 on the Lezyne its my go to pump and I use the bottle cage mount bracket but its small enough to fit in a bag or a jersey pocket. I will note that I don't pump up my tires to max PSI.
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Old 06-19-18, 04:10 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by bertinjim View Post
jmaxwel8 -

Looks like a good one. You will need to clean it with white polishing compound and then wax, of course. Replace the old brake cables with lined stainless ones and stainless derailleur cables. Replace the old, hard Mafac brake pads with new ones, preferably Kool Stops. You need a special Stronglight or J.A. Stein 23.35 mm crank extractor for that Stronglight 93. Be aware that only those will work as others will strip the threads. looking at the crankset, you may want a lower gear option as your inner chainring looks quite large.Red Clover sells a 37 T inner ring which might help.Lube everything with new grease and good to go.
I second the comment about Stronglight threads, which 'almost' fit standard pullers, but don't be tempted to try anything other than the correct tool.
As regards chainwheel sizes, here in France the norm is 52/42.
Ebay.fr is a good source, as is www.leboncoin.fr.
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Old 06-20-18, 04:56 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Mace350 View Post
Would one of you mind measuring from the bottom steering lug to the center of the front axle? Preferably a 58cm frame.
If you mean from the underneath of the fork crown to the axle (the length of the fork blades) it's 355mm. See Picture 1.

If you mean from the bottom of the headtube to the axle, it's 395mm. See picture 2.
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Old 06-20-18, 05:04 AM
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Thanks

Mines 380mm the bike has always felt like I was falling forward. I'm thinking this could be the reason. Bike was just a rusted frame when I got it with everything cut off and no fork included.

Last edited by Mace350; 06-20-18 at 05:07 AM.
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Old 06-20-18, 08:37 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Mace350 View Post
Would one of you mind measuring from the bottom steering lug to the center of the front axle? Preferably a 58cm frame.
That dimension doesn't change with frame size. Only the steer tube length changes with frame size.
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Old 06-20-18, 11:16 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
That dimension doesn't change with frame size. Only the steer tube length changes with frame size.
Yes, but I have a carbon fork. I always have a lot of weight on the hands and I think this may be the reason.
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Old 06-20-18, 02:00 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by jmaxwel8 View Post
well I’m not sure if it was by my demise or it was already cracked but regardless is it cracked....

i read there are are plenty of alternatives but I’d really like to stick to the simplex brand and come up with something that is all metal to avoid the cracking in the future. Could anyone offer suggestions. I was thinking of the simplex sj a102 but I read conflicting opinions if it will work or not. Anyone else got a suggestion using a simplex all metal FD
Those that say that a SJ A102 won't work don't know what they are talking about. I have them on two French bikes.
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