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Peugeot PX10 help

Old 05-12-18, 07:39 PM
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jmaxwel8
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Peugeot PX10 help

I've ridden road and mountain bikes for many years, but recently I've become more interested in learning more and getting a vintage bike that I could get in good working order to tinker around with (basically the N+1 strategy). I bought this bike the other day and was hopeful that the forum could give me as much information as possible. What are the pitfalls when getting this type of bike in "riding" condition? I will go through it completely mechanically but anything else would be helpful (i.e what year, what looks original to the bike, best place to source parts ect). Literally any information or thoughts would be great and appreciated. Here is a couple poor pictures, but they are all I have right now on the computer.


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Old 05-12-18, 08:19 PM
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Fortunately your example appears to be quite original and hopefully all in working order. That being said you did pick the venerable PX-10 which being French can be more "fun" with the french threading, not that big of a deal if you already know your way around bottom brackets and headsets as well as being aware of stem, bar, seatpost sizing and such. The main thing will be if the bearings, spindle, cups and races are serviceable. Inspect those Simplex derailleurs closely for cracks as well.
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Old 05-13-18, 12:35 AM
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...I don't think those saddles were around when the Nervex lugged PX-10's were being made, but otherwise all that stuff looks authentic, even if it's not all original to that particular bike. The stem looks like one of the more solid ones you see on PX-10's of that era, so that's a plus. Mostly, they are a little idiosyncratic in threading (as already stated) and in the metric frame tubing diameters.

If you need to pull the crank arms, it's larger than the current standard puller diameter for that crank.




Here's one I have, that has some modifications to make it more of a rider, like clincher rims and a water bottle cage moved to the bars.

Amazon France and Ebay in France are some good places to look for parts, but it looks like you don't need many.
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Old 05-13-18, 04:50 AM
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I have to stay Iím not disappointed in the least bit of the seat isnít original. How would you anticipate this bike cleaning up when you compare it to some of the nicer ones I see around?
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Old 05-13-18, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
Fortunately your example appears to be quite original and hopefully all in working order. That being said you did pick the venerable PX-10 which being French can be more "fun" with the french threading, not that big of a deal if you already know your way around bottom brackets and headsets as well as being aware of stem, bar, seatpost sizing and such. The main thing will be if the bearings, spindle, cups and races are serviceable. Inspect those Simplex derailleurs closely for cracks as well.


I have to stay Iím not disappointed in the least bit of the seat isnít original. How would you anticipate this bike cleaning up when you compare it to some of the nicer ones I see around
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Old 05-13-18, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jmaxwel8 View Post
I have to stay Iím not disappointed in the least bit of the seat isnít original. How would you anticipate this bike cleaning up when you compare it to some of the nicer ones I see around?
This bike will look beautiful once you've finished it. It's clean and the parts are there other than the saddle. A brooks will fix that problem.
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Old 05-13-18, 07:19 AM
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Any tips on cleaning would be appreciated as well.
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Old 05-13-18, 08:08 AM
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That is a lovely example.
Put a few drops of Liquid Wrench on all threaded bits and let it rest while you plan your attack.
Get the proper crank arm remover.
If the front derailleur is not cracked, DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CLAMP WHEN YOU REINSTALL IT. The mechanism doesn't require the same torque on the clamp as modern bottom pull derailleurs.

Please tell us where you found this.
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Old 05-13-18, 08:09 AM
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jmaxwel8 -

Looks like a good one. You will need to clean it with white polishing compound and then wax, of course. Replace the old brake cables with lined stainless ones and stainless derailleur cables. Replace the old, hard Mafac brake pads with new ones, preferably Kool Stops. You need a special Stronglight or J.A. Stein 23.35 mm crank extractor for that Stronglight 93. Be aware that only those will work as others will strip the threads. looking at the crankset, you may want a lower gear option as your inner chainring looks quite large.Red Clover sells a 37 T inner ring which might help.Lube everything with new grease and good to go.
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Old 05-13-18, 08:53 AM
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if the front derailleur is not cracked, DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CLAMP WHEN YOU REINSTALL IT. The mechanism doesn't require the same torque on the clamp as modern bottom pull derailleurs.

+1 on that from Classtime. The older rod type front derailleurs were notorious for cracking with age and excessive torque but the newer type will crack as well at the left side pivot near the cage if over tightened.
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Old 05-13-18, 09:00 AM
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I would take the bike apart--other than the headset and bottom bracket--to clean it properly. Ideally you'd also shoot some frame saver into the tubes but then you would need to at least pull out the adjustable cup, spindle and bearings (which is not a bad idea). The frame can likely be cleaned up nicely with any of the commercial bike cleaners and polishers. The flat white rust oleum paint is an almost perfect match for this paint if you need to do small touch ups. Rust on the metal parts can be dealt with easily with evapo rust. I'd wax the frame before putting it back together. I'd replace all the ball bearings with new grade 25 ball bearings (check out wheels manufacturing) and all the consumables (i.e., cables, cable housing, tires, tape, etc.) One of the fun things of an old French bike is that nothing is standard; the brake cable ferrules are likely 4 mm which is narrower than what you are likely to find. Fun. When you rebuild it, grease all the bits that need greasing (anything threaded, seatpost, bar, and stem).

This is the build thread on my mid 70s Peugeot PR 10 (one model below this):

'71 Peugeot PR 10: the good and the ugly

The cool thing is you can avoid all my mistakes and make new ones of your own,

Last edited by bikemig; 05-13-18 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 05-13-18, 10:10 AM
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This thread - Show us your Peugeot PX10 - is a nice reference.
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Old 05-13-18, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by CO_Hoya View Post
This thread - Show us your Peugeot PX10 - is a nice reference.
thanks, this is a great source.
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Old 05-13-18, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
That is a lovely example.
Put a few drops of Liquid Wrench on all threaded bits and let it rest while you plan your attack.
Get the proper crank arm remover.
If the front derailleur is not cracked, DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CLAMP WHEN YOU REINSTALL IT. The mechanism doesn't require the same torque on the clamp as modern bottom pull derailleurs.

Please tell us where you found this.
This is a CL find. I have been looking in the general area for a while and found this one day. I wanted to stay away from eBay since I donít know enough yet to know when Iím being ripped off. I know enough about bikes to make a call of I can see if in person but not over the Internet.

I bought it from an older guy that bought it new. He sold it to his friend that didnít ride it long (a couple of years) and then he bought it back. His wife said he bought it back around 78 and he rode it for years after that. For his part of the ownership he kept it inside. Usually these Iíve owned it forever stories seem to be untrue but I think these were genuine people and his wife basically repeated what he told me about itís history.

I havent found many bikes that I didnít appreciate and want to at least ride, but this one really caught my eye. I like the attention to detail that the frame has and also the overall history of this bike in particular.
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Old 05-13-18, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jmaxwel8 View Post




I have to stay Iím not disappointed in the least bit of the seat isnít original. How would you anticipate this bike cleaning up when you compare it to some of the nicer ones I see around
Well the original seat could have been a Brooks, Ideale or AGDA possibly and would be a find if in good shape but you got a usable seat so its all good.

Your example is a fine one and should clean up well.
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Old 05-13-18, 03:50 PM
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Seat tube 531 Decal. Order from Cyclomondo, Greg Softley in Australia. Inexpensive & fast delivery. Also: 2 tire savers and tubular tires & glue (I order from Yellow Jersey- great owner & service)


Fork 531 decals. From: http://cyclomondo.net/page27.htm


Crank bolt/crank puller/replacement tool-special tool size; 14 & 15mm cone wrenches; Mafac brake tools; spoke wrench; Freewheel remover to re-pack rear hub; bearing grease(- I am still running on my original bearings- no problem); chain link remover not shown.

Last edited by Peugeotlover; 05-13-18 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 05-18-18, 12:08 PM
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Any suggestions on a tire pump that looks good with these frames? It has a modern one on it now that isnít functional.
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Old 05-18-18, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jmaxwel8 View Post
Any suggestions on a tire pump that looks good with these frames? It has a modern one on it now that isn’t functional.
Period correct would be a Zefal Lapize. Fortunately for you, they make a reissue. I don't know how good they are. The originals were pretty meh, to be honest. Looks good though. The Zefal HP came out a couple years after that bike was made, and is perhaps the best frame pump ever made. Ugly as sin though. Still, I would not hesitate to buy a vintage one. It will still work great. Alternatively, you could be a real racer guy and get a vintage Silca. These were the standard racer pump at that time. Lighter than a zefal, and pumps faster. It does take some arm strength as well as skill to use. There's a specific technique and most people need to be shown how to do it. Work best with a steel campy head.

Lastly, the modern Lezyne HP road drive pumps look kind of retro, like a mini Lapize. I think they can be attached to the frame with pump pegs. You might have to improvise something. Small enough to go on a seat stay. Has the same PITA screw on hose as a Lapize, plus the added bonus of taking 43,027 strokes to fill a tire.

Original saddle was almost always a Brooks Professional. Sometimes a Brooks B17 Special, or an Ideale. Whatever was cheaper that month.

Last edited by Salamandrine; 05-18-18 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 05-18-18, 02:05 PM
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A new Ideale 90 saddle will be perfect for this bike!
Yes, a Brooks Pro would work, but why not make it all French with an Ideale saddle instead.
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Old 05-19-18, 09:00 PM
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Thanks for all the help. I decided just to go with a brooks b17. They have never let me down. I have ordered my missing decals and new brack pads as well. I think this is going to turn out really well.
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Old 05-19-18, 09:57 PM
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Did the rims have any decals that came on them originally?
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Old 05-20-18, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jmaxwel8 View Post
Did the rims have any decals that came on them originally?
There could have been any number of clincher rims put on those hubs, which are Normandy Luxe Competition hubs. Most likely they would have been Super Champions: VeloBase.com - Component: Super Champion Mod. 58
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Old 05-20-18, 05:35 AM
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Wow!

You have received some great advice.

My $0.02 worth as a former (much less valuable) 1980 PKN-10 owner:
1) Do obtain or borrow the proper unique Stronglight crank puller. I have one, if you are based anywhere near north coastal San Diego County.
2) The OEM frame pump is dreadful. It does look cool, and it would be great if the bike is to be a hanger queen, but it is not adequate for a rider. I love the Zefal HP-X, and although almost all of them are all-black, I do have one with a white body and one with a silver body, either of which would look a little better on your PX-10. I prefer a seat tube placement, although this would cover the beautiful seat tube decals and would look less authentic than under the top tube, which is the classic PX-10 pump location. Another option is to put a genuine OEM-looking pump under the top tube and carry a useful compact pump in your backpack.
3) All of the PX-10s we sold in the early 1970s at Bikecology came through with Brooks Pro saddles. (I still have one of the originals from the 1973 PX-10 the shop owner bought for himself and gave up trying to break in.)
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Old 05-20-18, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jmaxwel8 View Post
Did the rims have any decals that came on them originally?


1972 original Mavic tubular rim from PX-10. Shows original decals.
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Old 05-20-18, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine View Post
Lastly, the modern Lezyne HP road drive pumps look kind of retro, like a mini Lapize. I think they can be attached to the frame with pump pegs. You might have to improvise something. Small enough to go on a seat stay. Has the same PITA screw on hose as a Lapize, plus the added bonus of taking 43,027 strokes to fill a tire.
Yeah the Lezyne bottle mounted on are pretty discrete. I went with medium, bout they do have a large.

I do have a Problem Solverís height adjuster between it and the cage. Bosses were too closed together.



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