What about backing off the nose screw on this saddle?
06-06-18, 06:23 PM
#1
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What about backing off the nose screw on this saddle?
I bought an Ideale 90 (with seatpost) on eBay. It arrived today. I was aware that the nose nut had been snugged up. The saddle seems hard as a rock though, making me wonder:
- why the previous owner tightened it
- whether or not it would be ok to let off a bit of the tension
06-06-18, 06:41 PM
#2
Bad example
I would go ahead and back off the nut.
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06-06-18, 07:05 PM
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That's a pretty saddle ya got there. Looks well broken in. No reason not to make adjustments as you see fit. I know you won't over do it!
06-06-18, 07:36 PM
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It does look a bit tight with that hard looking narrow ridge running through the center of the saddle.
I hope it did not get irreversibly damaged from over-tensioning.....
I hope it did not get irreversibly damaged from over-tensioning.....
06-06-18, 08:10 PM
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Yeah, that's my fear. I loosened it a bit, maybe half a turn. It was immediately loose. The leather didn't give at all. I'll let it sit for a few days. If it doesn't release a little I can always put a bit of Proofide on it.
06-07-18, 10:34 AM
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I don't remember ever tightening my old Ideale. but I have tightened my Brooks Pro. I'd ride that saddle first as you got it and go from there.
06-07-18, 11:33 AM
#8
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I think that one is done. I suppose you could try to remold the leather by soaking it in water. Then then stuff something underneath to push the top back to the original shape (ish). Alternatively, you could cast a mold from it, carve it out till the shape is correct, and then use that for a form.
Or send it to RHM. Probably easier.
Or send it to RHM. Probably easier.
06-08-18, 07:49 PM
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I think that one is done. I suppose you could try to remold the leather by soaking it in water. Then then stuff something underneath to push the top back to the original shape (ish). Alternatively, you could cast a mold from it, carve it out till the shape is correct, and then use that for a form.
Or send it to RHM. Probably easier.
Or send it to RHM. Probably easier.
The casting idea is interesting. I have a Rebour treated 90 (one of my faves). If I was going to make a cast, I think I'd use that as the mold. I'd need to be able to squeeze it out between the rails and the top. I wonder if I could make something small enough to get out of the space without breaking. Is plaster of paris used for these sorts of jobs nowadays, or is there something more modern?
06-08-18, 08:57 PM
#10
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Rudi already has two saddles. I suspect if I sent him a third I might be living in the doghouse for awhile.
The casting idea is interesting. I have a Rebour treated 90 (one of my faves). If I was going to make a cast, I think I'd use that as the mold. I'd need to be able to squeeze it out between the rails and the top. I wonder if I could make something small enough to get out of the space without breaking. Is plaster of paris used for these sorts of jobs nowadays, or is there something more modern?
The casting idea is interesting. I have a Rebour treated 90 (one of my faves). If I was going to make a cast, I think I'd use that as the mold. I'd need to be able to squeeze it out between the rails and the top. I wonder if I could make something small enough to get out of the space without breaking. Is plaster of paris used for these sorts of jobs nowadays, or is there something more modern?
The obvious issue is that it has to be fairly narrow to fit between the rails. If I try this again on another saddle, I might try to make a 3 piece mold that screws together. Perhaps an outside/female mold would be better. Certainly easier to get the full shape. A vacuum bag would be ideal to push the leather into the new shape. At any rate this worked for my fairly modest goal of tweaking the center section shape. I could put up a thread if anyone's interested.
06-08-18, 11:01 PM
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... I might try to make a 3 piece mold that screws together. Perhaps an outside/female mold would be better. Certainly easier to get the full shape. A vacuum bag would be ideal to push the leather into the new shape. At any rate this worked for my fairly modest goal of tweaking the center section shape. I could put up a thread if anyone's interested.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
06-09-18, 02:44 AM
#13
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Detension the bolt, immerse the saddle in room temperature water for no more than 90min then let it 'rest' for 20min. When the leather becomes 'workable' stuff wadding underneath the saddle (cloth, scrunched paper) to obtain the desired shape. Use a toe strap or similar around the saddle to prevent the side skirts from flaring as the leather dries.
I move the strap every few hours to ensure even drying of the leather. You can swap over the wadding with fresh dry material.
Let the leather naturally dry over a few days.
Retension the bolt and treat with Proofide.
Please take photos and show the results in an update.
I have been recovering saddles for nearly 10 years.
I move the strap every few hours to ensure even drying of the leather. You can swap over the wadding with fresh dry material.
Let the leather naturally dry over a few days.
Retension the bolt and treat with Proofide.
Please take photos and show the results in an update.
I have been recovering saddles for nearly 10 years.
Last edited by Big Block; 06-09-18 at 02:47 AM.
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