How do I put together my Sturmey Archer S5 hub?
06-20-18, 09:41 AM
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How do I put together my Sturmey Archer S5 hub?
Hello, I am new to the bike forums. I have a Triumph sports 3 speed that I plan to convert to a 5 speed using a Sturmey Archer S5 hub. I cannot post pictures yet since this is my first post, however I can tell you that I managed to just screw on a bell crank and a chain indicator, yet, I can't put them on all the way. I also have the metal gear shifters and the original cables along with other attachments. I also plan to remove the 3 speed hub from the original rim and replace with the 5 speed one using the same spokes. There is a guy I used to go to to get these sorts of things done, but it appears that he closed down. So unless I find someone else, I might have to do this alone. The question still stands: how do I put my Sturmey Archer S5 hub together?
06-20-18, 12:04 PM
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If your original wheel has an AW hub (as is likely) then you're in luck. The AW and S5 hubs use the same shell. All you have to do is take the AW guts out and put the S5 guts in.
Is your S5 hub separate, or is it built into a wheel? If it's not built into a wheel, getting the guts out could be a challenge....
Is your S5 hub separate, or is it built into a wheel? If it's not built into a wheel, getting the guts out could be a challenge....
06-20-18, 12:22 PM
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If your original wheel has an AW hub (as is likely) then you're in luck. The AW and S5 hubs use the same shell. All you have to do is take the AW guts out and put the S5 guts in.
Is your S5 hub separate, or is it built into a wheel? If it's not built into a wheel, getting the guts out could be a challenge....
Is your S5 hub separate, or is it built into a wheel? If it's not built into a wheel, getting the guts out could be a challenge....
06-20-18, 12:45 PM
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Okay, well, the first step is to find the instructions online for how to disassemble a hub. Try googling "Tony hadland Sturmey archer" and I think you'll find what you need. Read the instructions for both the AW and the S5; I think you'll find they are the same.
The problem you may run into will be how to remove the drive side ball ring. This is much easier to do with a whole wheel than with a separated hub, but depending on your hub's past, you may be able to manage it. It depends what tools you have at hand: hold your hub in a carpenter's clamp or otherwise clamp it between blocks of wood or something. If you can manage this, everything else will be pretty easy.
The problem you may run into will be how to remove the drive side ball ring. This is much easier to do with a whole wheel than with a separated hub, but depending on your hub's past, you may be able to manage it. It depends what tools you have at hand: hold your hub in a carpenter's clamp or otherwise clamp it between blocks of wood or something. If you can manage this, everything else will be pretty easy.
06-20-18, 01:06 PM
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Okay, well, the first step is to find the instructions online for how to disassemble a hub. Try googling "Tony hadland Sturmey archer" and I think you'll find what you need. Read the instructions for both the AW and the S5; I think you'll find they are the same.
The problem you may run into will be how to remove the drive side ball ring. This is much easier to do with a whole wheel than with a separated hub, but depending on your hub's past, you may be able to manage it. It depends what tools you have at hand: hold your hub in a carpenter's clamp or otherwise clamp it between blocks of wood or something. If you can manage this, everything else will be pretty easy.
The problem you may run into will be how to remove the drive side ball ring. This is much easier to do with a whole wheel than with a separated hub, but depending on your hub's past, you may be able to manage it. It depends what tools you have at hand: hold your hub in a carpenter's clamp or otherwise clamp it between blocks of wood or something. If you can manage this, everything else will be pretty easy.
06-20-18, 01:46 PM
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If I remember right, the bell crank doesn't screw all the way on.
You'll be able to upload pictures soon. A way to do that quickly is below.
You'll be able to upload pictures soon. A way to do that quickly is below.
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06-20-18, 01:46 PM
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06-20-18, 01:47 PM
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06-20-18, 01:48 PM
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06-20-18, 01:50 PM
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06-20-18, 02:03 PM
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I don't want to disassemble it, I just want to take the old hub off from the rim, then relace the S5 into it. The difficulty I'm going to have is connecting the chain indicator and the bell crank to the cables, I wish I could upload pictures so that I could show you what I mean.
I'm familiar with the S5 hub and I know what you mean about the cables. I know the bell crank. The bell crank pushes against a rod inside the axle; do you have that rod? if so, try pushing on it; it should move ¼" or so and spring back when released. Does it do that? If not, you will have to overhaul your hub.
If you don't have the rod, don't worry. It's easy to lose, but also easy to replace. You can use a nail for the test I described.
The cable on the drive side of the S5 attaches to the same type of indicator as the AW. It threads into a key inside the hub. Does the indicator thread in correctly? If not, you will have to overhaul your hub. Which, as I say, is not a big deal.
I'm not saying rebuilding the is a big deal; you can probably do it in an hour or two. Even so, it's totally unnecessary, and I advise against it.
Not knowing your hub's past, nor knowing it's its present condition, I consider it pretty likely that you will have to open it up and look at the inside of it at some point. Assuming it passes the two tests I mentioned, you still can't know how well it works until you have it built into a wheel and actually try it out.
06-20-18, 02:16 PM
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If your are just playing with the hub, bell crank and the cables, bear in mind that between the hub locknut and the bell crank you will have the bicycle frame, an anti-rotational washer, and an axle nut. That should leave a short bit of the axle exposed. The bell crank only had to thread on that far.
The gear cables on both sides require a fulcrum attached to the frame. To test whether the cables shift the hub correctly, it will have to be in the bicycle frame with the cables, fulcrum and shifters all correctly attached.
The gear cables on both sides require a fulcrum attached to the frame. To test whether the cables shift the hub correctly, it will have to be in the bicycle frame with the cables, fulcrum and shifters all correctly attached.
06-20-18, 02:26 PM
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I understand your reluctance to disassemble the hub; but I suggest you get over it. It's much less work than rebuilding the wheel. Moreover, rebuilding the wheel is probably unnecessary, irrespective of whether you overhaul the hub, whereas overhauling the hub is probably going to be necessary irrespective of whether you rebuild the wheel. Hence my advice: don't rebuild the wheel. Just swap the guts of the hubs.
I'm familiar with the S5 hub and I know what you mean about the cables. I know the bell crank. The bell crank pushes against a rod inside the axle; do you have that rod? if so, try pushing on it; it should move ¼" or so and spring back when released. Does it do that? If not, you will have to overhaul your hub.
If you don't have the rod, don't worry. It's easy to lose, but also easy to replace. You can use a nail for the test I described.
The cable on the drive side of the S5 attaches to the same type of indicator as the AW. It threads into a key inside the hub. Does the indicator thread in correctly? If not, you will have to overhaul your hub. Which, as I say, is not a big deal.
I'm not saying rebuilding the is a big deal; you can probably do it in an hour or two. Even so, it's totally unnecessary, and I advise against it.
Not knowing your hub's past, nor knowing it's its present condition, I consider it pretty likely that you will have to open it up and look at the inside of it at some point. Assuming it passes the two tests I mentioned, you still can't know how well it works until you have it built into a wheel and actually try it out.
I'm familiar with the S5 hub and I know what you mean about the cables. I know the bell crank. The bell crank pushes against a rod inside the axle; do you have that rod? if so, try pushing on it; it should move ¼" or so and spring back when released. Does it do that? If not, you will have to overhaul your hub.
If you don't have the rod, don't worry. It's easy to lose, but also easy to replace. You can use a nail for the test I described.
The cable on the drive side of the S5 attaches to the same type of indicator as the AW. It threads into a key inside the hub. Does the indicator thread in correctly? If not, you will have to overhaul your hub. Which, as I say, is not a big deal.
I'm not saying rebuilding the is a big deal; you can probably do it in an hour or two. Even so, it's totally unnecessary, and I advise against it.
Not knowing your hub's past, nor knowing it's its present condition, I consider it pretty likely that you will have to open it up and look at the inside of it at some point. Assuming it passes the two tests I mentioned, you still can't know how well it works until you have it built into a wheel and actually try it out.
06-20-18, 02:58 PM
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It looks a lot scarier than it really is.
There is a ton of information and lots of exploded diagrams available to put everything back together again.
There is a ton of information and lots of exploded diagrams available to put everything back together again.
06-20-18, 03:06 PM
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Okay, good start! You should be able to pull it out 8 mm or so, and let it spring back in. Jiggling the cog may help.
