Framesaver, rust inhibitor...prep?
07-03-18, 09:06 AM
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Framesaver, rust inhibitor...prep?
Posting this here, since I figure the C&V guys are more likely to deal with steel and, unfortunately, rust issues.
When applying Framesaver or a rust inhibitor to the inside of the tubes, how do you prep the tubes? As in clean the tubes so that they are free from old grease and what not? Specifically, the seat tube and head tube. I was thinking of using a few cans of brake parts cleaner followed up by a engine degreaser spray and a final wash of brake parts cleaner but curious how the pro's do it. Do you need to get down to "fresh" steel so an etching solution needs to also be applied (seems like a possible frame killer)?
Any recommendations on a brand? Was gonna go with this can but the reviews say it dries to a sticky consistency. Would prefer not to have to deal with sticky. Maybe this one.
Will be my first time coating...
When applying Framesaver or a rust inhibitor to the inside of the tubes, how do you prep the tubes? As in clean the tubes so that they are free from old grease and what not? Specifically, the seat tube and head tube. I was thinking of using a few cans of brake parts cleaner followed up by a engine degreaser spray and a final wash of brake parts cleaner but curious how the pro's do it. Do you need to get down to "fresh" steel so an etching solution needs to also be applied (seems like a possible frame killer)?
Any recommendations on a brand? Was gonna go with this can but the reviews say it dries to a sticky consistency. Would prefer not to have to deal with sticky. Maybe this one.
Will be my first time coating...
07-03-18, 04:58 PM
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Make sure there's no water in the frame, and the spray Weigles in there. Don't over think it.
07-04-18, 11:12 PM
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No need to prep, Framesaver and others work by creating an air barrier. Removing the rust first does absolutely nothing.
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07-25-18, 09:44 PM
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Re-visiting this thread as I just recieved my can.
I have an old Trek where the rear derailleur gets routed through the chain stay. I've updated this bike to an indexed 10cog in the rear.
This stuff is supposed to dry tacky. Should I be concerned about it mucking up the cable/housing if I coat the interior of the chain stay?
I have an old Trek where the rear derailleur gets routed through the chain stay. I've updated this bike to an indexed 10cog in the rear.
This stuff is supposed to dry tacky. Should I be concerned about it mucking up the cable/housing if I coat the interior of the chain stay?
07-26-18, 12:13 AM
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I don't think it's a big deal. Will there be any places that the cable will be touching the inside of the chainstay?
07-26-18, 10:45 AM
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Naw, once the volatiles evolve off, it leaves a waxy film. Spray a little on some metal and wait a day and you'll see what I mean.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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07-26-18, 03:20 PM
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I picked up a can of engine fogging oil at the auto parts store, and have been using it as frame saver application in my recent restorations. Maybe doesn't evaporate like JPW but readily available and better than nothing. a search of this forum will turn up all the benefits and drawbacks of JPW vs. engine fogging oil vs. linseed oil, etc.
07-27-18, 08:44 AM
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I’m not sure if it was the perfect method, I treated the first frame I sprayed with framesaver internally.
I plugged as many parts of the frame as I could and then filled any tubes that I could reach with evaporust. I let the frame soak overnight. The following day, I removed the plugs, drained the frame and then rinsed thoroughly with water. I put the frame in a stand and set up a heat gun on moderate heat and ran it for many hours. When I was satisfied that the tubes were dry, I did the treatment.
I plugged as many parts of the frame as I could and then filled any tubes that I could reach with evaporust. I let the frame soak overnight. The following day, I removed the plugs, drained the frame and then rinsed thoroughly with water. I put the frame in a stand and set up a heat gun on moderate heat and ran it for many hours. When I was satisfied that the tubes were dry, I did the treatment.
07-27-18, 08:48 PM
#11
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If the bike has a sealed cartridge bottom bracket, that's true. If it's an older bike with a loose bearing BB, the cranks and bottom bracket should be removed first (fixed cup can be left in place). It will make it easier to get access to the chainstays etc anyway.
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