Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

WTB C&V bike to ride...your opinions, please.

Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

WTB C&V bike to ride...your opinions, please.

Old 08-10-18, 11:22 AM
  #76  
motosman1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 39

Bikes: GT Rebound

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Fuji

Originally Posted by Hudson308 View Post
Fuji S12-S is usually a decent mid-range road bike from the late 70's-early 80's. Seamed chrome-moly tubing and Suntour mechanicals. Great price on that one.
Trek 620 is a higher-mid range bike from the 80's, made in Wisconsin. Reynolds 531 tubing. They're a quality machine that typically hold their value well.

Are they both your size?
Just conversed with the seller. My size, all there! Price is right and provides opportunity for me to get my hands dirty. Going this afternoon for look see! I will have cash in-hand, just in case! Luckily for me, my boss is out of town and I have been able to spend a couple hours, this morning, doing research of FUJI's, Special thanks to T-Mar for the Fuji serial number thread which led to this site;

Fuji Bicycle Serial Number Formats - 1971 through 1991

Seller provided S/N and verified it had aluminum rims and bars. S/N shows frame to be built in November for 1980 model year. Catalog says "straight gauge, chrome molybdenum tubing" and 12 speeds. However, the color matches the 1981 catalog which states 18 speeds. Without a pic of the drive side it will have to wait until I get there to determine.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/bi...643298873.html

I think I'm starting to get excited...wish me luck...
motosman1 is offline  
Old 08-10-18, 11:24 AM
  #77  
motosman1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 39

Bikes: GT Rebound

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by treebound View Post
I would maybe go take a look at this one:

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bi...652489358.html
I have been looking at this one, also, treebound. Just a little over my pricepoint.
motosman1 is offline  
Old 08-10-18, 11:40 AM
  #78  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 6,123

Bikes: 90/91 De Rosa, '84 Team Miyata, '82 nishiski,

Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 806 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 28 Posts
Originally Posted by motosman1 View Post
Just conversed with the seller. My size, all there! Price is right and provides opportunity for me to get my hands dirty. Going this afternoon for look see! I will have cash in-hand, just in case! Luckily for me, my boss is out of town and I have been able to spend a couple hours, this morning, doing research of FUJI's, Special thanks to T-Mar for the Fuji serial number thread which led to this site;

Fuji Bicycle Serial Number Formats - 1971 through 1991

Seller provided S/N and verified it had aluminum rims and bars. S/N shows frame to be built in November for 1980 model year. Catalog says "straight gauge, chrome molybdenum tubing" and 12 speeds. However, the color matches the 1981 catalog which states 18 speeds. Without a pic of the drive side it will have to wait until I get there to determine.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/bi...643298873.html

I think I'm starting to get excited...wish me luck...
Good luck
it is 18 speed you can see from the pic of the back side of the crank
__________________
Looking for Team Miyata F&F 58cm
squirtdad is offline  
Old 08-10-18, 12:11 PM
  #79  
Hudson308 
Mr. Anachronism
 
Hudson308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: City of Lakes
Posts: 1,514

Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 338 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
Originally Posted by motosman1 View Post
S/N shows frame to be built in November for 1980 model year. Catalog says "straight gauge, chrome molybdenum tubing" and 12 speeds. However, the color matches the 1981 catalog which states 18 speeds.
November 1980 build would indeed be for the 1981 model year.
__________________
"If we don't change direction soon, we'll end up where we're going." -Irwin Corey
Hudson308 is offline  
Old 08-10-18, 01:56 PM
  #80  
Aubergine 
Bad example
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 2,947
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 771 Post(s)
Liked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by grayEZrider View Post
That is the newfound opportunity to test your skills as a carpenter and build a shed!
Been there done that already! :-)
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Aubergine is offline  
Old 08-10-18, 03:05 PM
  #81  
Classtime 
Senior Member
 
Classtime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,549

Bikes: 69 PX-10, 81 Medici, 84 Turbo, 87 IM, 2010 Milwaukee Road, 2011 RS

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 542 Post(s)
Liked 21 Times in 18 Posts
Alright Motosman! Seems like you finally pulled the trigger. Pictures please. A Fuji S12- ( shoulda been called S18-) S is a great first RB.
Classtime is offline  
Old 08-14-18, 01:48 PM
  #82  
motosman1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 39

Bikes: GT Rebound

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Fuji s12-s

Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
Alright Motosman! Seems like you finally pulled the trigger. Pictures please. A Fuji S12- ( shoulda been called S18-) S is a great first RB.
OK..trigger pulled, bike in possession! Just my luck. Get the bike home and can't make the time to caress it and evaluate it for needed TLC. Domestic duties take priority due to anticipated rain, last weekend. Then the job takes me out of town all week. It will be this weekend before I get pics. All in all, I'm pretty happy with it. Patience and perseverance paid off. 1981 Fuji S12-S, complete including the dried and shriveled leather toe straps for the pedals. Not sure if the tire pump is OEM, but it is there. Hopefully it works. The "old man" (literally) selling it said his grandson left it in his garage, along with a "cherry" red Schwinn Le Tour, a couple years ago after the grandson discovered "girls". It appears to be all original and "garage kept" most of it's life. A little bit of rust on the steering stem bearing cups and fork crown. Time to research rust removal products! Aluminum rims are super straight and spokes have retained a nice finish. I can honestly say this bike is exactly what I was looking for, as far as quality, condition and price are concerned. He was firm on his $35 price and even offered to throw the Le Tour in for another $30, although I declined. Kinda' second guessing myself now (IDO still have his cell #). I hope that's not one of the first steps leading to "N+1"!
Anyway, all the bearings feel smooth and end play is snug but not binding. All bearings feel dry, but smooth. Brakes are not frozen, I may even get away with retaining the existing cables, but purchasing new pads. I also know that I will pull every axle, shaft, bearing and cable to inspect, clean and lubricate. Can't help myself. So, I have a couple questions. Allow me to preface these with some info. For the past 30 years I have been in an industry where the "dealerships" (often referred to as stealerships) are despised and avoided at all costs. Unfortunately, that has become a way of life for everything. Uninformed, inexperienced and generally uncompassionate toward the customer, employees are motivated by management to "make the sale" and "close the deal" all the while collecting on an unbelievable and disgusting profit margin. Am I to be encouraged to visit my LBS as much as possible? Or is it truly more advantageous to purchase as much as possible, online? Or, is there a balance? I am on a "shoestring budget" but I also don't want to be the guy that refuses to see the rewards of giving a little back to the guys at the shop. Any opinions?
So, simple questions:
1. Bearing grease, what kind and where to buy? I'm thinking lower viscosity the better (re. rolling resistance/friction), clingier(?) and stickier is better. Yes or no?
2. Tires, again what and where? Remember, first bike. I wont know the diff in ride quality without riding different tires, back to back. Are the $17 Conti's on ebay good enough? Hard for me to justify putting $70 in tires for this bike.

This will get me started. Thanks in advance for all your expertise and experience!
motosman1 is offline  
Old 08-14-18, 02:00 PM
  #83  
tiredhands 
Sempiternal Newb
 
tiredhands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Panama City, FL
Posts: 647

Bikes: '92 Trek 750, '85 Univega Gran Turismo, '95 Stumpjumper,

Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
ParkTools Polylube 1000 is great stuff for all yer bicycle grease needs. For oil, there's Phil's Tenacious Oil.

It might seem hard to justify at first, but good tires make the difference between an "old" bike and a bike you want to ride. 27" wheels, probably? Panaracer Paselas, no contest, unless you can find a set of SwiftTire Sand Canyons (also made by Panaracer).

Some LBS are better than others (and some are just awful). If you know exactly what you're looking for, you're probably better off getting stuff from Amazon mostly because your LBS might not have what you want in the right size. If you want input or suggestions, an LBS is better than Amazon reviews.

Also: pics please!
tiredhands is offline  
Old 08-14-18, 02:50 PM
  #84  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 6,123

Bikes: 90/91 De Rosa, '84 Team Miyata, '82 nishiski,

Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 806 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 28 Posts
Originally Posted by motosman1 View Post
OK..trigger pulled, bike in possession! Just my luck. Get the bike home and can't make the time to caress it and evaluate it for needed TLC. Domestic duties take priority due to anticipated rain, last weekend. Then the job takes me out of town all week. It will be this weekend before I get pics. All in all, I'm pretty happy with it. Patience and perseverance paid off. 1981 Fuji S12-S, complete including the dried and shriveled leather toe straps for the pedals. Not sure if the tire pump is OEM, but it is there. Hopefully it works. The "old man" (literally) selling it said his grandson left it in his garage, along with a "cherry" red Schwinn Le Tour, a couple years ago after the grandson discovered "girls". It appears to be all original and "garage kept" most of it's life. A little bit of rust on the steering stem bearing cups and fork crown. Time to research rust removal products! Aluminum rims are super straight and spokes have retained a nice finish. I can honestly say this bike is exactly what I was looking for, as far as quality, condition and price are concerned. He was firm on his $35 price and even offered to throw the Le Tour in for another $30, although I declined. Kinda' second guessing myself now (IDO still have his cell #). I hope that's not one of the first steps leading to "N+1"!
Anyway, all the bearings feel smooth and end play is snug but not binding. All bearings feel dry, but smooth. Brakes are not frozen, I may even get away with retaining the existing cables, but purchasing new pads. I also know that I will pull every axle, shaft, bearing and cable to inspect, clean and lubricate. Can't help myself. So, I have a couple questions. Allow me to preface these with some info. For the past 30 years I have been in an industry where the "dealerships" (often referred to as stealerships) are despised and avoided at all costs. Unfortunately, that has become a way of life for everything. Uninformed, inexperienced and generally uncompassionate toward the customer, employees are motivated by management to "make the sale" and "close the deal" all the while collecting on an unbelievable and disgusting profit margin. Am I to be encouraged to visit my LBS as much as possible? Or is it truly more advantageous to purchase as much as possible, online? Or, is there a balance? I am on a "shoestring budget" but I also don't want to be the guy that refuses to see the rewards of giving a little back to the guys at the shop. Any opinions?
So, simple questions:
1. Bearing grease, what kind and where to buy? I'm thinking lower viscosity the better (re. rolling resistance/friction), clingier(?) and stickier is better. Yes or no?
2. Tires, again what and where? Remember, first bike. I wont know the diff in ride quality without riding different tires, back to back. Are the $17 Conti's on ebay good enough? Hard for me to justify putting $70 in tires for this bike.

This will get me started. Thanks in advance for all your expertise and experience!
congrats....

I like phil wood grease.....you really don't use a lot. Phil oil is good. a spray silicone is good for cables.

good repair references:

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/

you might want to consider a basic bike tools kit like the nashbar, and then get things one by one as you need

https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...xoCjWsQAvD_BwE

__________________
Looking for Team Miyata F&F 58cm
squirtdad is offline  
Old 08-15-18, 06:45 AM
  #85  
Hudson308 
Mr. Anachronism
 
Hudson308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: City of Lakes
Posts: 1,514

Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 338 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
That S12-S will be the perfect project for your first bike. The only left-hand thread you'll encounter will be the left (non-drive side) pedal, and everything else is pretty standard. The seat post is a weird diameter, as I recall.
Bike shops, like any human enterprise, can be really good, really bad, or anywhere in between. I've had the best luck with the small mom-and-pop shops as opposed to the big chain shops. I also agree that you'll need a few bicycle-specific tools. Crank extractor, pedal wrench, cone wrenches, a chain break and a couple headset/bottom bracket spanners will get you started. You'll also find that a bicycle work stand is worlds above crouching and rolling around on the concrete. Here's an '81 S12-S (Nov. 1980 serial no) that I rebuilt for my wife...

__________________
"If we don't change direction soon, we'll end up where we're going." -Irwin Corey

Last edited by Hudson308; 08-15-18 at 07:02 AM. Reason: added pics
Hudson308 is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 12:35 PM
  #86  
motosman1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 39

Bikes: GT Rebound

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Panaracers

Originally Posted by tiredhands View Post
ParkTools Polylube 1000 is great stuff for all yer bicycle grease needs. For oil, there's Phil's Tenacious Oil.

It might seem hard to justify at first, but good tires make the difference between an "old" bike and a bike you want to ride. 27" wheels, probably? Panaracer Paselas, no contest, unless you can find a set of SwiftTire Sand Canyons (also made by Panaracer).

Some LBS are better than others (and some are just awful). If you know exactly what you're looking for, you're probably better off getting stuff from Amazon mostly because your LBS might not have what you want in the right size. If you want input or suggestions, an LBS is better than Amazon reviews.

Also: pics please!
Panaracer Pasela...folding or wire bead and why, other than the obvious of carrying a spare tire in a toolbag. Any diff in performance?
motosman1 is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 12:45 PM
  #87  
tiredhands 
Sempiternal Newb
 
tiredhands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Panama City, FL
Posts: 647

Bikes: '92 Trek 750, '85 Univega Gran Turismo, '95 Stumpjumper,

Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by motosman1 View Post
Panaracer Pasela...folding or wire bead and why, other than the obvious of carrying a spare tire in a toolbag. Any diff in performance?
I think when it comes to Paselas, a kevlar bead (folding) is a little lighter, otherwise the same as the wired variant. Wired vs folding is usually an indicator of tire quality, with folding tires having a nicer casing. But wired Paselas are just fine. Probably better to use on older rims as they're also easier to mount.
tiredhands is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 12:49 PM
  #88  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 6,123

Bikes: 90/91 De Rosa, '84 Team Miyata, '82 nishiski,

Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 806 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 28 Posts
Originally Posted by motosman1 View Post
Panaracer Pasela...folding or wire bead and why, other than the obvious of carrying a spare tire in a toolbag. Any diff in performance?
with clinchers unless you are touring not a big need to carry an extra tire. Do carry a spare tube and patch kit, other wise the flat tire demons will make you pay . and of course a pump
__________________
Looking for Team Miyata F&F 58cm
squirtdad is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 12:53 PM
  #89  
motosman1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 39

Bikes: GT Rebound

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Also, the bike has rotted Mitsuboshi Silver Star 27 x 1-1/8". They appear to be cloth/thread sidewalls. I have read about tires with a sidewall TPI (thread per inch) count. Were these tires an exposed thread or were they gumwalls that the gum has deteriorated and fallen away from? There doesn't appear to be any gum residue to be found. 1981 Fuji catalog lists Silver Stars as the factory installed tire. I would not be surprised if these are the OEM tires. The bike shows little evidence of wear, misuse or abuse. Just a lot of dormancy.
motosman1 is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 01:07 PM
  #90  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 6,123

Bikes: 90/91 De Rosa, '84 Team Miyata, '82 nishiski,

Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 806 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 28 Posts
Originally Posted by motosman1 View Post
Also, the bike has rotted Mitsuboshi Silver Star 27 x 1-1/8". They appear to be cloth/thread sidewalls. I have read about tires with a sidewall TPI (thread per inch) count. Were these tires an exposed thread or were they gumwalls that the gum has deteriorated and fallen away from? There doesn't appear to be any gum residue to be found. 1981 Fuji catalog lists Silver Stars as the factory installed tire. I would not be surprised if these are the OEM tires. The bike shows little evidence of wear, misuse or abuse. Just a lot of dormancy.
probably gumwalls that have rotted.....don't worry about TPI for this build....save that for future N+1
__________________
Looking for Team Miyata F&F 58cm
squirtdad is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 02:56 PM
  #91  
motosman1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 39

Bikes: GT Rebound

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by squirtdad View Post
probably gumwalls that have rotted.....don't worry about TPI for this build....save that for future N+1
Oh yeah, I realize that tire TPI is further down the road for me.

Referring to my knowledge of auto/motorcycle tires, if the tire width increases and the aspect ratio remains the same the sidewall height increases proportionally. I see the bicycle tires show no aspect ratio, just a bead diameter (older wheels) and width. Will going from a 27" x 1-1/8" tire to a 27" x 1-1/4" result in a taller (softer) sidewall and subsequent smoother ride? I am 56 yrs old and muscularly soft. I would sacrifice a little lateral stiffness if it negates some harshness.

Panaracer Pasela, wire bead, $27 Amazon Prime. Any opining of gumwall vs. blackwall? Pros and cons?
motosman1 is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 03:17 PM
  #92  
Grand Bois
Senior Member
 
Grand Bois's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,421
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bicycle tires are basically round in cross section. The aspect ratio is 100.
Grand Bois is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 03:57 PM
  #93  
motosman1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 39

Bikes: GT Rebound

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts





Well, here are pics! Sorry, I don't know how to make them smaller.

Like I said before (I think), it's all there just a little rust in some places. All bearings feel smoothbut I will pull all axles and steering stem to clean, inspect and lubricate.
motosman1 is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 04:15 PM
  #94  
motosman1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 39

Bikes: GT Rebound

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts




In the last pic of previous post, there is a crescent shaped chrome spacer(?) upward and rearward of the axle on the RH dropout, retained by a Philips head screw. It looks like it locates the axle in the dropout but there is not one on the left side. Can anyone explain?
motosman1 is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 04:17 PM
  #95  
motosman1
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 39

Bikes: GT Rebound

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Round Tires

Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
Bicycle tires are basically round in cross section. The aspect ratio is 100.
Thanks for the info.
motosman1 is offline  
Old 08-16-18, 06:13 PM
  #96  
Aubergine 
Bad example
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 2,947
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 771 Post(s)
Liked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by motosman1 View Post




In the last pic of previous post, there is a crescent shaped chrome spacer(?) upward and rearward of the axle on the RH dropout, retained by a Philips head screw. It looks like it locates the axle in the dropout but there is not one on the left side. Can anyone explain?
One could simply be missing from the LH dropout. For what it is worth, I always thought those spacers should be used only on the left side dropout to match the placement of the derailleur claw.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Aubergine is offline  
Old 08-17-18, 11:35 AM
  #97  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 6,123

Bikes: 90/91 De Rosa, '84 Team Miyata, '82 nishiski,

Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 806 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 28 Posts
Originally Posted by Aubergine View Post

One could simply be missing from the LH dropout. For what it is worth, I always thought those spacers should be used only on the left side dropout to match the placement of the derailleur claw.
thats what I have always seen with bike of this vintage
__________________
Looking for Team Miyata F&F 58cm
squirtdad is offline  
Old 08-17-18, 02:31 PM
  #98  
MiloFrance 
Not riding enough
 
MiloFrance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Capestang, France
Posts: 1,155

Bikes: Lots of French, some British and a couple of Italian

Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Looks like you're starting on the right foot! That Fuji branded rear mech is awesome!
__________________
I'm on holiday whenever I ride my bike
MiloFrance is offline  
Old 08-18-18, 06:55 AM
  #99  
Pompiere
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 2,459

Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 216 Post(s)
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by motosman1 View Post
In the last pic of previous post, there is a crescent shaped chrome spacer(?) upward and rearward of the axle on the RH dropout, retained by a Philips head screw. It looks like it locates the axle in the dropout but there is not one on the left side. Can anyone explain?
The spacer helps you put the axle over the derailleur for better shifting. You can put it on either side or both sides if you want. I use one on the left side, and center the tire between the chainstays.

As for tires, Panaracer Pasellas in 27 x 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 inch will give a bit of cushioning, especially if you ignore the recommended pressure on the sidewall. My 1 1/8 Paselas says "Keep inflated to 105 psi". I weigh 160 lbs. and like them much better at 85-90 psi. I have a pair that are 27 x 1 inch and I run them at 90 psi vs. the 115 psi on the sidewall.
Pompiere is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Monkey Face
Classic & Vintage
7
03-27-17 02:34 AM
rhnam
Classic & Vintage
26
04-09-12 03:20 PM
Dylansbob
Living Car Free
9
06-16-10 06:23 AM
AdamDZ
Bicycle Mechanics
27
03-06-10 08:38 PM
patrickgh
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
4
05-14-08 12:30 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.