Schwinn Varsity Build
#26
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,952
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 79 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2964 Post(s)
Liked 4,290 Times
in
2,276 Posts
Likes For SurferRosa:
Likes For Schweinhund:
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 693
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 249 Post(s)
Liked 325 Times
in
191 Posts
I got this one today. I plan on keeping as many original parts as possible except for removing the safety lever extensions. I'm gonna use bar tape similar to the original but I couldn't find any sort of using green Benoto bar tape that is the same color. I would like to get a non step through version to restore as well.

Likes For grant40:
#29
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 8,735
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1369 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
648 Posts
Congrats on such a complete and good-looking find!
I've seen a couple of 22" Varsity frames being discarded at the dump recently, still with nice (purple, yellow) paint.
The handlebars on these are a thinner 7/8" than on aluminum bars which are 15/16" diameter. So if using a thin tape like cloth or vinyl I would first slip innertube tightly over the bars (or use another under-wrap to build up thickness and cushion).
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
Note that clipless pedals to fit these bike's 1/2" crankarm threading are exceedingly rare to find these days.
I've seen a couple of 22" Varsity frames being discarded at the dump recently, still with nice (purple, yellow) paint.
The handlebars on these are a thinner 7/8" than on aluminum bars which are 15/16" diameter. So if using a thin tape like cloth or vinyl I would first slip innertube tightly over the bars (or use another under-wrap to build up thickness and cushion).
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
Note that clipless pedals to fit these bike's 1/2" crankarm threading are exceedingly rare to find these days.
Likes For dddd:
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,158
Bikes: 1964 Frejus,1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport, 1983 Trek 700, 1985 Ironman, 1985 Torpado, 1983 Peugeot UO14, 1989 Miyata 1000LT and others
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked 470 Times
in
266 Posts
The brake safety levers actually suit the average rider on these casual frames. Try em, you might like em.
Likes For sd5782:
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 693
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 249 Post(s)
Liked 325 Times
in
191 Posts
Congrats on such a complete and good-looking find!
I've seen a couple of 22" Varsity frames being discarded at the dump recently, still with nice (purple, yellow) paint.
The handlebars on these are a thinner 7/8" than on aluminum bars which are 15/16" diameter. So if using a thin tape like cloth or vinyl I would first slip innertube tightly over the bars (or use another under-wrap to build up thickness and cushion).
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
Note that clipless pedals to fit these bike's 1/2" crankarm threading are exceedingly rare to find these days.
I've seen a couple of 22" Varsity frames being discarded at the dump recently, still with nice (purple, yellow) paint.
The handlebars on these are a thinner 7/8" than on aluminum bars which are 15/16" diameter. So if using a thin tape like cloth or vinyl I would first slip innertube tightly over the bars (or use another under-wrap to build up thickness and cushion).
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
Note that clipless pedals to fit these bike's 1/2" crankarm threading are exceedingly rare to find these days.
Likes For grant40:
Likes For grant40:
#35
minimalist cyclist
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,632
Bikes: yes please
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 1,280 Times
in
791 Posts
I got this one today. I plan on keeping as many original parts as possible except for removing the safety lever extensions. I'm gonna use bar tape similar to the original but I couldn't find any sort of using green Benoto bar tape that is the same color. I would like to get a non step through version to restore as well.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/23478805435...Bk9SR5zW86avYQ
Likes For Deal4Fuji:
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 946
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 310 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 371 Times
in
154 Posts
Probably everything that can be said has already. I just finished a Varsity and a couple Continentals and they are a great first bike to work on but only if you buy one that is complete. the Continentals and Varsity are 34-36 lb depending on size with steel wheels. By comparison. the Raleigh Grand Prix I just finished weighed just under 30 lb with steel wheels.
When I look for a bike to work on I pay close attention to the paint. If the bike is dirty and greasy with frayed rusty cables it will clean up. If the paint is shot there is only so much you can do with it. here are the 2 Schwinns I just worked on. I used very few new parts on them . mostly just clean and polish.
When I look for a bike to work on I pay close attention to the paint. If the bike is dirty and greasy with frayed rusty cables it will clean up. If the paint is shot there is only so much you can do with it. here are the 2 Schwinns I just worked on. I used very few new parts on them . mostly just clean and polish.

Likes For capnjonny:
#37
Palmer
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 7,788
Bikes: Mike Melton custom, 1982 Stumpjumper, Alex Moulton AM, 2010 Dawes Briercliffe, 2017 Dahon Curl i8, 2021 Motobecane Turino 1x12
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1309 Post(s)
Liked 1,171 Times
in
706 Posts
Hold my beer and watch this department:

Likes For tcs:
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 693
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 249 Post(s)
Liked 325 Times
in
191 Posts
I want to convert to square taper and I did. If I'm writing a fixed gear without brakes the chain ring is only held in with one pin and when I'm back peddling that tin makes the hole in the chain ring bigger and bigger until it breaks.
Likes For grant40:
Likes For SkinGriz:
#44
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,303
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1251 Post(s)
Liked 930 Times
in
623 Posts
Been there ... done that. My father-in-law gave me his 1974 Varsity, which I promptly equipped with a 6-speed freewheel, downtube shifters (with the requisite shim under the clamp), aluminum rims, and KoolStop brake pads. I added toeclips and commuted on it for a couple of years until a coworker gave me a same-vintage Peugeot UO-8, which I upgraded with aluminum cranks and rims. The Peugeot was far more fun to ride, but two years later, after numerous climbs up a 12 percent grade to my office, the Peugeot did something a Varsity never would -- its drive side chainstay cracked between the chainring and tire dimples.
The Varsity's two worst features are the flat bladed fork and the steel rims. Start with a Continental, or, better still, start with a Super Sport, which already has a tubular fork and aluminum rims.
The Varsity's two worst features are the flat bladed fork and the steel rims. Start with a Continental, or, better still, start with a Super Sport, which already has a tubular fork and aluminum rims.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 599
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 315 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 320 Times
in
219 Posts
The SUBURBAN has the same tubular front fork as the Continental. (note: The SUBURBAN has the same L.S. 2.4 sidepull brakes as the Varsity, while the Conti. has centerpull brakes)
Likes For Vintage Schwinn:
#47
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 8,735
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1369 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
648 Posts
Unless you can be certain that the chain will never break or derail off the sprocket, the forged pin on a one-piece crank driving the chainring should be the least of your worries.
Advise having one backup brake on any bike used on real roads, unless you've perhaps perfected the full-panic heel-rub stop(?).
These two bikes appear to be set up for a larger rider than indicated by frame size, looks like they might be too short-reaching to ride comfortably?
Advise having one backup brake on any bike used on real roads, unless you've perhaps perfected the full-panic heel-rub stop(?).
These two bikes appear to be set up for a larger rider than indicated by frame size, looks like they might be too short-reaching to ride comfortably?
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 946
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 310 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 371 Times
in
154 Posts
TCS,
I Love that Roxy triple crank on your green Varsity . Looks like an old TA.
I Love that Roxy triple crank on your green Varsity . Looks like an old TA.
Last edited by capnjonny; 01-24-23 at 08:25 AM.
#49
Newbie
You could use regular brake lever ferrules at the frame stops, but they won't fit as deeply as the original ferrules so might potentially slip out along with the cable if the cable were to become slack.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
It's a relatively minor safety concern as long as the caliper and cable are maintained to give smooth return force to hold the ferrule in place.
