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Old 08-19-18, 10:48 AM
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More '79, '80 Trek 930 questions

This bike had extremely limited production. And it provides an extremely twitchy ride. Are these two factoids related to one another? Did the twitchiness get worked out with the release of the 950?
And while we're here, I'm collecting serial numbers. I want to see how many I can find, and maybe try and figure out the meaning of the last three characters.
TIA
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one general tip for when the exact hub cone is not readily available. discovered that the curvature of the bearing surface on the shimano 600 was a pretty good "skeleton key" for many applications. it would sometimes require a small change in ball size to make everything come out correctly.
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Old 08-19-18, 03:37 PM
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I never found it to be remotely twitchy. Compared to the 957 and 770 I own, the ride was more relaxed and forgiving.
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Old 08-19-18, 06:55 PM
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I have read, elsewhere, of folks having trouble with it. Would a shorter wheelbase make it less so? What I'm finding is that if I'm not giving the road ahead my full attention, I'm asking for trouble. I'm gonna take the Paramount out for a few days. It has a longer top tube and a shorter stem, and I've never had any issue with it.
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one general tip for when the exact hub cone is not readily available. discovered that the curvature of the bearing surface on the shimano 600 was a pretty good "skeleton key" for many applications. it would sometimes require a small change in ball size to make everything come out correctly.
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Old 08-19-18, 07:47 PM
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The Trek 930 was designed as a criterium frame with quick handling. I suspect what you're experiencing is working as designed.
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Old 08-19-18, 08:03 PM
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I was wondering about that. If I was in a race, and had to pay attention all the time, it would be just fine. If I'm out by myself, and I glance to the side to see what that guy is doing over there, I have problems. Nonetheless, I'm going to check some things, and change some things and see what happens.
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one general tip for when the exact hub cone is not readily available. discovered that the curvature of the bearing surface on the shimano 600 was a pretty good "skeleton key" for many applications. it would sometimes require a small change in ball size to make everything come out correctly.
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Old 08-19-18, 08:35 PM
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Yeah, my Guerciotti is very alert and often "curious" as to what I may be looking at other than the road in front of me. Head tube angle is at 76.5° and calculated trail is around 31-32mm, so it certainly behaves as designed. I think part of me is just happy an American bicycle company of that era that wasn't a custom shop made a frameset as quick as that. I agree though, it's one that you'll have to be ready to ride--grab the bull by the horns and all of that. Your other Schwinns are wonderful rides with '"aware" but not twitchy nor sluggish steering.

Looking at the geometry charts for 1978.5, the HTA and STA are 73° and the trail comes out to 45mm. 45mm is...well, it's quick. My '85 Peloton is at 44-45mm of trail, I know the feeling.Looking again, at the 25.5" (my size), man, get me one of those with that nice deep 77mm BB drop!
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Old 08-19-18, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by seedsbelize View Post
This bike had extremely limited production. And it provides an extremely twitchy ride. Are these two factoids related to one another? Did the twitchiness get worked out with the release of the 950?
And while we're here, I'm collecting serial numbers. I want to see how many I can find, and maybe try and figure out the meaning of the last three characters.
TIA
I have a 78 730- it's built to the same geometry and dimensions as the 930, but made of 531 instead of SL/SP.

I think it's a nice riding bike- interestingly enough, my '86 Trek 400 Elance sport touring has a more aggressive geometry than the 730 "race" bike. Even my 620 and 720 touring bikes have steeper angles to the tubes. The 730/930 geometry is essentially the same as the concurrent touring bike, with shorter chainstays, a little more BB drop and a little less fork rake- the head tube and seat tube angles are the same.

I love the "give" and "float" that this bike has. Again, most of my bikes are not "go fast" bikes- but this one is, it's so much lighter and it does feel nimble. It's interesting to try to determine the smoothness int the ride as combining the compliance of the frame and the mass of the bike.
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Old 08-19-18, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by seedsbelize View Post
I have read, elsewhere, of folks having trouble with it. Would a shorter wheelbase make it less so? What I'm finding is that if I'm not giving the road ahead my full attention, I'm asking for trouble. I'm gonna take the Paramount out for a few days. It has a longer top tube and a shorter stem, and I've never had any issue with it.
As a data point, I always used a 130mm stem, and a 44cm width bar with that frameset.
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Old 08-19-18, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by The Golden Boy View Post
I have a 78 730- it's built to the same geometry and dimensions as the 930, but made of 531 instead of SL/SP.

I think it's a nice riding bike- interestingly enough, my '86 Trek 400 Elance sport touring has a more aggressive geometry than the 730 "race" bike. Even my 620 and 720 touring bikes have steeper angles to the tubes. The 730/930 geometry is essentially the same as the concurrent touring bike, with shorter chainstays, a little more BB drop and a little less fork rake- the head tube and seat tube angles are the same.

I love the "give" and "float" that this bike has. Again, most of my bikes are not "go fast" bikes- but this one is, it's so much lighter and it does feel nimble. It's interesting to try to determine the smoothness int the ride as combining the compliance of the frame and the mass of the bike.
I'm running aero levers on it, and have had issues with the cable housing interfering with a freely rotating steerer. I'm going to put some non-aero levers on it and see if it helps. I suspect it will. This is the only thing about it I'm less than satisfied with. It;s a great riding, fast bike. I might also check the rear wheel dish. I'm learning a lot from this bike.
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one general tip for when the exact hub cone is not readily available. discovered that the curvature of the bearing surface on the shimano 600 was a pretty good "skeleton key" for many applications. it would sometimes require a small change in ball size to make everything come out correctly.
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Old 08-19-18, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nesteel View Post
As a data point, I always used a 130mm stem, and a 44cm width bar with that frameset.
I'm using a 90 mm stem and 44 cm bars.
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one general tip for when the exact hub cone is not readily available. discovered that the curvature of the bearing surface on the shimano 600 was a pretty good "skeleton key" for many applications. it would sometimes require a small change in ball size to make everything come out correctly.
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Old 08-19-18, 09:32 PM
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My '78 930 is not at all twitchy. I haven't measured the angles.
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Old 08-20-18, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jeirvine View Post
My '78 930 is not at all twitchy. I haven't measured the angles.
Serial number please.
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one general tip for when the exact hub cone is not readily available. discovered that the curvature of the bearing surface on the shimano 600 was a pretty good "skeleton key" for many applications. it would sometimes require a small change in ball size to make everything come out correctly.
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Old 08-20-18, 07:16 AM
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My 77 900 is quite the relaxing cruiser, wouldn’t consider it twitchy at all. Tim
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Old 08-20-18, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by seedsbelize View Post
Serial number please.
Just PM'd you.
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Old 08-20-18, 10:53 AM
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I loosened the headset just a touch. But I already had the other bike ready to go. I'll try it out this afternoon or tomorrow morning.
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one general tip for when the exact hub cone is not readily available. discovered that the curvature of the bearing surface on the shimano 600 was a pretty good "skeleton key" for many applications. it would sometimes require a small change in ball size to make everything come out correctly.
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Old 08-20-18, 11:15 AM
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Might check the frame alignment, or use a long straight edge to compare front to rear rim spot to spot on both sides. like you said may be rear wheel dish. Adjusting the headset is good too as it can affect the twitch factor. Never ridden a 930 but generally a proper race frameset is quite stable, esp on bombing descents.
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Old 08-20-18, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tkamd73 View Post
My 77 900 is quite the relaxing cruiser, wouldn’t consider it twitchy at all. Tim
"Cruiser" isn't exactly a word I'd appropriate to this style of bike.

I mean, I understand you don't mean that it's like a beach cruiser- but "cruiser" makes me think Eldorado, this is more like 64-67 Mustang- light and sporty.
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Old 08-20-18, 08:40 PM
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Please do check the frame alignment, then as a separate step the fork alignment, and then the wheel dish both front and rear to eliminate these potentially distracting variables from your perception of the road feel.
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Old 08-21-18, 10:50 AM
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Success!! The headset was the culprit. Just a hair too tight--a very small hair. Thanks for all the tips and insights. I learned a lot during this process.
I'm not ready to ride 'no hands', but if I were so inclined, I likely could.
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one general tip for when the exact hub cone is not readily available. discovered that the curvature of the bearing surface on the shimano 600 was a pretty good "skeleton key" for many applications. it would sometimes require a small change in ball size to make everything come out correctly.
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Old 08-21-18, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
The Trek 930 was designed as a criterium frame with quick handling. I suspect what you're experiencing is working as designed.
This /\. Mine was a 25 inch but felt aggressive and rode stiffly with Columbus SP tubing.
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Old 08-21-18, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by The Golden Boy View Post
"Cruiser" isn't exactly a word I'd appropriate to this style of bike.

I mean, I understand you don't mean that it's like a beach cruiser- but "cruiser" makes me think Eldorado, this is more like 64-67 Mustang- light and sporty.
No, not like an Eldorado, but definitely not an early mustang either. You ever drive one of those in stock form, handles like crap, not even equipped with rack and pinion steering. Basically just a Ford falcon with a pretty skin. Guess my 900 feels less sporty because of the 26” frame. actually a little too tall for me, 25” would be ideal. Also 180mm crank arms, P.O. was quite a bit taller then me. Would probably feel more sporty if it still had the arc n ciel tubular rims too. Love the bike though, once up to speed it just goes. Considering the Bullit movie with Steve McQueen, it would be more like the Charger, then the Mustang.
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Old 08-21-18, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tkamd73 View Post


No, not like an Eldorado, but definitely not an early mustang either. You ever drive one of those in stock form, handles like crap, not even equipped with rack and pinion steering. Basically just a Ford falcon with a pretty skin. Guess my 900 feels less sporty because of the 26” frame. actually a little too tall for me, 25” would be ideal. Also 180mm crank arms, P.O. was quite a bit taller then me. Would probably feel more sporty if it still had the arc n ciel tubular rims too. Love the bike though, once up to speed it just goes. Considering the Bullit movie with Steve McQueen, it would be more like the Charger, then the Mustang.
I’ve driven a fairly stock 65- much smaller feeling than 67 Camaro or 68 Firebird. Those GM cars just feel bigger. I’ve ridden in a 68 Mustang- and it just all around felt bigger than I remember the 65.

Did you get to the big car show in Waukesha last weekend? It was slick.
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Old 08-21-18, 12:12 PM
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Nope missed it, spent the weekend taking my kids back to KU, starting their junior year. Heard it was a pretty good show, from some fellow gear heads.
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